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Offlinek2nride
journeyman
Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 85
Last seen: 12 years, 3 months
my humidity solution
    #3127735 - 09/13/04 12:59 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

After failing cakes and not knowing what was wrong, i found out that my humidty was too low although my gauges said otherwise. What i did was take half the cake that was a darker blueish color, and make a small casing using a clear plastic solo cup. The casing layer was just plain vermiculite. 2 weeks later, the top was colonized, but it looked different, more healthy and fluffier, with small water specks over the myc. What i did when i had the casing done, instead of putting tin foil over it and incubate, i just covered the top with duct tape (and left it on for a few weeks with no air exchange), after i sprayed 5 or 6 sprays of h20 in there. when it fruited, i got probably 13 mushrooms or so in there. btw the strain is huautla. now im doing 2 casing of 50/50 vermiculite, peat moss, and vermiculite, cow manure. the casings are on their 10th day from the begining, and i already see a few pins on the verm/peatmoss. so my problem all along was the humidity. as long as i can see small droplets all over the casing, i know the humidity is high enough. btw this works for me, although it doesnt mean its actually true.


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Invisiblegeorge castanzaM
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Registered: 10/21/02
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Re: my humidity solution [Re: k2nride]
    #3127976 - 09/13/04 02:06 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

:thumbup:good info :thumbup:
5 shrooms for you :crazy2:


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Invisiblefastfred
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Re: my humidity solution [Re: george castanza]
    #3129326 - 09/13/04 01:59 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Condensation on the walls is a better indicator of proper humidity than any guage.


-FF


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OfflineSilven
I trip,therefore weare.

Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 2,071
Loc: El Mexicano
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Re: my humidity solution [Re: k2nride]
    #3129873 - 09/13/04 03:53 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

>>2 weeks later, the top was colonized, but it looked different, more healthy and fluffier, with small water specks over the myc.

Isn't visible water "specks" a sign that there is too much humidity or that you are misting too often?  I thought visible moisture build up on the myc would cause it to stop/delay it's fruiting and turn into fluffy myc?  Sorry if I'm wrong :smile:

- Silven


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Born: 10/31/83, which makes me a Scorpio.

1) Scorpios are the most highly sexed of all the signs of the zodiac.
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They usually exploit the weaknesses of others, who fall victim to
their capacity for total lust & sexual abberation.
3) Scorpios possess great intellectual curiosity & creative talent. They
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Offlinek2nride
journeyman
Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 85
Last seen: 12 years, 3 months
Re: my humidity solution [Re: Silven]
    #3130492 - 09/13/04 06:42 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

fastfred said:
Condensation on the walls is a better indicator of proper humidity than any guage.
-FF




But then again, the walls might not show much condensation at all and still be humid enough.

Quote:

Isn't visible water "specks" a sign that there is too much humidity or that you are misting too often? I thought visible moisture build up on the myc would cause it to stop/delay it's fruiting and turn into fluffy myc? Sorry if I'm wrong
- Silven




I dont know. But i didnt have any problem with the solo casing at all. It always had small droplets of water . It hardly got air exchange, and in 3 weeks i got 13 good sized mushies from a 1/4 pint of substrate. I thought that small water specs are good (but not small pools)because i have seen pictures on this site of casings that are fruiting like mad with those water specs all over it.


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OfflineSpudz76
Got mycelium on the brain...
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Registered: 02/08/04
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Re: my humidity solution [Re: Silven]
    #3130612 - 09/13/04 07:09 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Visible very small specks like dew are good.  More than that is bad.  Basically there is a difference between droplets and dry areas in between and absolute saturation.  If you have droplets, and air space in between, then you are helping since the water is immediately available for absorbtion, but you also aren't blocking air from being immediately absorbable too.  So, puddles or a spray down to where the whole surface is soaked including most of the surface area of the mycelium/pins/knots gives plenty of water (which is GOOD) but also seals off the air (which is BAD).  Therefore, it's balance which is hard to diagnose.  And water is sort of a bitch like this because of the way its surface tension works, and the way droplets can merge.  This is why a super fine misting sprayer (pumpup type) is always better, smaller droplets can join with others without becoming a 'microflood' and covering up too much air penetration.  Remember the mycelium are working from a cellular level so everything you're trying to do is nearly microscopic, which is why it's difficult to make simple rules for how much spray is too much just by naked eye.  If you had a magnifying glass or loupe then you could examine closer and get it just right, more likely.  Hyphae posted a link recnetly to a thread at the nook which had awesome casing info with pics comparing this exact thing.  I don't feel like finding it though.

Also, FF is not providing the whole truth there, condensation is a better indicator of high enough humidity IF your tub is not in a room where it is excessively cold or excessively warm in comparison to the tub internal temperature.  The colder it is outside the tub the sooner (on the RH scale) the condensation will form so you might only have 80% and still get condensation.  The other direction, you could have 100% humidity and if it's much warmer outside the tub the walls will not be colder than the air so you will get no condensation regardless if you're at 100%.  I explained this at length, including some math and links to calcs, in some other thread which I don't feel like finding right at the moment.

But I sure feel like typing lots, instead of finding links, apparently. :smile:


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