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 ElectricBoogaloo
newbie
Registered: 09/07/04
Posts: 52
Last seen: 19 years, 5 months
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 Pinning after casing questions 
#3116110 - 09/09/04 09:39 PM (19 years, 7 months ago) |
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I've read all the FAQs/TEKs/etc on casing, and the wierd thing I noticed was a distinct lack of info on what happens after you put your casing layer on. The best I can find is "initiate pinning and start fruiting."
From all the info I've gone through I can surmise that you initiate pinning by exposing the casing mixture to light, make sure you get some O2 in there every so often, keep it moist.
Well, my three casing containers have been sitting there since Sunday night, in the light (through saran wrap), very moist, and I'm getting nothing. The myclium is growing like crazy and poking out everywhere to a point where I'll probably have overlay in a day or two.
Do I just leave it and hope pinning starts? Should I try cold shocking one of the containers? What is an average time I could expect to wait until I see pins appear?
So many questions...
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Spudz76
Got mycelium on the brain...
Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 391
Last seen: 14 years, 1 month
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Generally like 7 days is pretty quick, with 12 days being about average for a first time, though it really depends on your conditions and if you chose the right time to initiate (can be tricky, sometimes dependant on your strain), it could take longer if something is not quite right.
For keeping the casing moist, don't spray the surface directly, especially once things start showing (hyphae, white fluffy surface fuzz which will start to bunch up into knots, which then a few days later turn into pins). You can get away with this but only if you have a sprayer that makes a very fine fog, and I mean very fine. The garden sprayers for things like insecticide which you pump air pressure into the tank can generally do this super fine fog mist. It has to be almost weightless. Then you can 'fog' the surface of the casing to some benefit. But spraying with a more heavy stream spray (and even most trigger pump style hand spray bottles even if they seem to do a fine mist, are still too coarse) can piss the little hyphae off and make them change their mind or at least slow down, and possibly lead to overlay or contam if it's really too wet. The deal behind this is the 'large' droplets (ones large enough to exhibit a noticeable immediate reaction to gravity without 'wisping' around in the air currents for a moment) will collect in larger puddles (we're still in a very zoomed in view here, so puddles doesn't mean ones you can obviously see, but more like if the pan was 100ft by 100ft... hopefully you get the idea - oh think Honey I Shunk the Kids even though that was sort of lame as a movie and you might not have seen it). The fog is light enough that it won't collect so badly and will also be more apt to be absorbed right away by the hyphae which becomes helpful to remedy a more universal (in terms of the chamber being the entire universe) lack of humidity in the air. Also the casing layer should have plenty of air space in it so there is air getting to the mycelium bed and also so there is space for the hyphae to poke up through without a whole lot of resistance (which is what the coco coir in a 50/50 type casing helps with), and if that air space gets clogged by water droplets it could lessen your pinset or cause aborts. Plus even if the surface looks dry but the hyphae keep on truckin and pins form and keep moving relatively well (perhaps taking up to 2 weeks total) then you probably just need to keep the ambient humidity in the chamber a good 85% (spray walls but not casing after fanning, use PMP techniques, whatever your preference) or so and wait it out.
If you could post a pic or two it would be very helpful for diagnosis also, I could have assumed things from your description since sometimes the pictures I form in my head are way off. Otherwise you sound right on. Though another factor in addition to light, humidity, and oxygen replenishment/CO2 displacement is temperature, the casing should be at 72 or so degrees in the chamber, and also doing all three (edit: whoops, four - "eye kin cownt goood") things at once is preferred to really kick them out of veg mode and into pinning and fruiting.
Edited by Spudz76 (09/09/04 10:39 PM)
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Muumipappa
Stranger
Registered: 08/18/04
Posts: 2
Last seen: 19 years, 3 days
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 Re: Pinning after casing questions [Re: Spudz76]
#3116808 - 09/09/04 11:57 PM (19 years, 7 months ago) |
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My casings have been stuck for 3 weeks already and only today I noticed a few pins coming out of two cases. It's my first time and I'm using perlite for moisture. I think the moisture is too high because the water is condensing on the mycelium in small drops of water and the mycelium seems to "flatten out" on the spots where the water condenses. How can I keep the moisture at the right level and how do I get the condensation off the casing? I've been trying to wipe the walls and/or ceiling of my terrarium to reduce moisture but it doesn't seem to help...
Any advice, PLEASE?
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 fastfred
Old Hand
Registered: 05/17/04
Posts: 6,899
Loc: Dark side of the moon
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Re: Pinning after casing questions [Re: Muumipappa]
#3116875 - 09/10/04 12:12 AM (19 years, 7 months ago) |
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I've never advised this before... But try fanning more. If your humidity is too high with perlite you are probably having temperature swings or not fanning enough. Also try a CO2 drainage hole... It might help to equalize the temps a little more.
-FF
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Spudz76
Got mycelium on the brain...
Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 391
Last seen: 14 years, 1 month
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Re: Pinning after casing questions [Re: fastfred]
#3117074 - 09/10/04 01:07 AM (19 years, 7 months ago) |
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Yep. And note that the humidity figure is relative humidity, meaning if you added nor removed any air moisture content but the temperature swung lower, you would get condensation because the relative percentage goes up (same as dew and fog happens outside) - it also goes down if you warm the air but don't change the water content. But generally the perlite will always be adding more humidity and will do so even more the warmer the water gets. Either try to stabilize the temp swings, if any, and then if that doesn't help balance things then fan some more and don't spray or anything. You may also get back the control advantage by covering up some of the perlite floor with like a sheet of aluminum foil or saran wrap (foil probably easier), so that less surface area is wide open to the air to evaporate, and find a balance that way by covering more or less of the floor with a barrier.
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ElectricBoogaloo
newbie
Registered: 09/07/04
Posts: 52
Last seen: 19 years, 5 months
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Re: Pinning after casing questions [Re: Spudz76]
#3117691 - 09/10/04 07:07 AM (19 years, 7 months ago) |
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Thanks Spudz...awesome advice and just what I needed. 
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Spudz76
Got mycelium on the brain...
Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 391
Last seen: 14 years, 1 month
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No problemo. Would've answered more of your questions on the "other forums" (sup goon buddy) but I figured why not wait until you come over here and join first. LOL
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