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Amazon Shop: Gypsum, Peat, pH Test Strips, Vermiculite

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OfflineShroomBilly
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Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing?
    #3095080 - 09/05/04 03:03 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Yesterday I went to home depot and picked up a bag of Scotts Sphagnum Peat Moss. The tek calls for just plain peat moss. Will this stuff work, or should i get a bag that just says peat moss?


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: ShroomBilly]
    #3095162 - 09/05/04 03:34 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Should work just fine in combination with verm and a buffer (Hydrated lime, lime, oystershell flour, chalk and gypsum (1:4), etc;) GL and Welcome!!!


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OfflineShroomBilly
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: hyphae]
    #3095189 - 09/05/04 03:43 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Hey thanks for the help! I was just a little confused because i saw a different tek for sphangnum moss and wasnt sure if it would work well with the vermiculite in the 50/50+ tek.
Thanks Again


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Anonymous

Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: ShroomBilly]
    #4020403 - 04/06/05 06:40 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

I still want to know if Sphagnum peat moss is the same thing as peat moss. I already bought two brands and both say Sphagnum somewhere


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Offlinetps
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: cuatiklad]
    #4020582 - 04/06/05 09:01 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

i tried sphagnum peat moss with just verm and had bad contams, i highly suggest using a buffer like mentioned before or else you could suffer the same consequences.


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: ShroomBilly]
    #4020624 - 04/06/05 09:43 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

If it says "PEAT" you are okay.

Sphagnum Moss vs Sphagnum Peat Moss
Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture
August 1996

Don't confuse sphagnum moss with sphagnum peat moss. Sphagnum moss and sphagnum peat moss are not the same product. Sphagnum moss is used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on top of a sphagnum bog. Sphagnum peat moss is used as a soil conditioner by gardeners. It is the dead material that accumulates in the lower levels of a sphagnum bog. Harvesters of the horticultural peat moss remove the top few inches of the live sphagnum moss before harvesting the peat from the lower levels of the bog.

Remember, sphagnum moss is NOT the same as the safe, sphagnum peat moss you use as a soil amendment!

(References: "Don't Confuse Sphagnum Moss with Peat Moss," by Gerry Hood, President, Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association; "Cutaneous Sporotrichosis in Forestry Workers," by K.E. Powell, A. Taylor, B.J. Phillips, D.L. Blakey, G.D. Campbell, L. Kaufman, and W. Kaplan. JAMA 240(3):10, 12-13; and "Multistate Outbreak of Sporotrichosis in Seedling Handlers," by T. England, M.J. Kasten, R. Martin, T. Cote, D.L. Morse, R. David, and J.P. Davis. Journal of the Amer. Medical Assoc. 260(19):2806, 2811.)

Wading Through The Peat Bog

Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture

Posted April 1997

Garden centers overflow with many products labeled "peats". The key to choosing the correct one lies in identifying the product and knowing how each is useful in the garden.The U.S.Bureau of Mines classifies peats into three major types: moss peat, reed sedge, and peat humus.

Moss peat, usually referred to as "peat moss," is the least decomposed of the three types. It consists of visible fibers of sphagnum, hypnum, and other mosses. Moss peat is lightweight, acidic (pH 3 to 7) and varies in color from yellowish to dark-brown. Its high moisture-holding capacity (approximately 15 times its dry weight) makes it a good soil amendment, or component of potting soil.

Sphagnum and hypnum moss peats differ slightly in their physical characteristics. Hypnum peat decomposes more rapidly, has a higher pH (5 to 7), and re-wets more easily than sphagnum peat. Sphagnum peat develops surface waxes upon drying that make them difficult to re-wet. Sphagnum peat is regarded as superior over hypnum peat for soil amending and as a growing media. The low pH of sphagnum peats (from 3 to 4.5) makes them better suited for use with acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.

Among the sphagnum peats, dark peats (those which are dark brown) are less elastic than lighter colored sphagnums. They will not return to their original volume after compression during packaging. Dark peats also lack the durability of lighter colored sphagnum peats; consequently, they are not as well suited to long-term culture.

Reed sedge peats consist of the remains of reeds, sedges, grasses, and other marsh plants. This type of peat varies considerably in composition and in color (reddish-brown to almost black). Its pH ranges from 4 to 7.5, and its water-holding capacity is less than moss peats (about 10 times the dry weight). Reed sedge peat is finer textured than peat moss. It is not as good a growing medium, but it is useful as a soil conditioner in the garden and in potting soil mixes.

Peat humus originates from hypnum moss, reed sedge peat, or woody peat. It is in such an advanced state of decomposition that the original plant remains cannot be identified. Peat humus is dark-brown to black with a low moisture-holding capacity. Unlike the other peats, it contains a small amount of nitrogen (2 to 3.5 percent). Peat humus, also known as black peat or Michigan peat, is quite heavy compared to the other peats. Its pH varies greatly (from 4 to 8), and it is characteristically sticky when wet.

Two types of black peat are found in the trade. The first, amorphous peat humus is highly acidic and virtually structureless. Any water it holds is mostly unavailable to plants. When it dries, amorphous peat humus becomes lumpy. It turns to dust when broken apart.

The second type of black peat, granular peat humus, contains humates which form aggregate particles. The aggregates give granular peat humus a high air capacity and make it permeable to water. This humus is used for improving very sandy or gravelly soil. Overall, the lack of water-holding and soil-loosening capacities of peat humus make it unsuitable for most horticultural purposes.

Woody peat, although not individually cited in the U.S.B.M. classification, can be purchased separately or as a component of peat humus. Woody peat results from the breakdown of trees, shrubs, and undergrowth from the forest floor. These peats vary greatly in texture, but they are usually quite porous. Woody peats are dark colored and acidic (pH 3.6 to 5.5). They decompose rapidly to become peat humus.

Mixtures of some of the above peat types will be encountered. Under the Federal Trade Commission regulations, a content of only 75 percent peat is sufficient to warrant the use of the term "peat". The best peat mosses contain 95 to 99 percent organic matter. A first-rate reed sedge peat will be 85 to 95 percent pure.

The most abundant constituent plant is usually listed first on the package, but your best guarantee for getting a good product is to buy brand names from a reputable dealer. For price comparison, use dry weight rather than volume since your primary interest is the actual weight of organic matter for your money.

(Adapted from "Wading Through the Peat Bog," by Virginia Nathan, Extension Technician, Consumer Horticulture, Virginia Tech, in The Virginia Gardener Newsletter, Volume 4, Number 1.)


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Edited by agar (04/06/05 09:55 AM)


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InvisibleRoadkillM
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: agar]
    #4020693 - 04/06/05 10:19 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

nice post bro!~

:thumbup:  :thumbup:


--------------------
Laterz, Road

Who the hell you callin crazy?
You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch!


Brainiac said:
PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale.



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Offlinemushawarness
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: tps]
    #25178955 - 05/01/18 11:50 PM (22 days, 1 hour ago)

Quote:

tps said:
i tried sphagnum peat moss with just verm and had bad contams, i highly suggest using a buffer like mentioned before or else you could suffer the same consequences.


  I disagree with this. I've used it with no issue. it does contain decomposing organic matter, so it should be sterilized first. My first time using it I had one small fruit from a different species because I didn't sterilize it. It was consumed by my fungus though and I had a great couple flushes. The second time I sterilized and added vermiculite(50/50 mix) I also added a small amount of organic quinoa for extra nutrients. This was a great mixture and produced a lot of fruits.


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InvisibleZiranS
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: mushawarness]
    #25179010 - 05/02/18 12:31 AM (22 days, 54 minutes ago)

Quote:

mushawarness said:
Quote:

tps said:
i tried sphagnum peat moss with just verm and had bad contams, i highly suggest using a buffer like mentioned before or else you could suffer the same consequences.


  I disagree with this. I've used it with no issue. it does contain decomposing organic matter, so it should be sterilized first. My first time using it I had one small fruit from a different species because I didn't sterilize it. It was consumed by my fungus though and I had a great couple flushes. The second time I sterilized and added vermiculite(50/50 mix) I also added a small amount of organic quinoa for extra nutrients. This was a great mixture and produced a lot of fruits.




casing layers get pasteurized. also, this is a 13 year old thread :P


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Pastywhyte said:
I'm probably just being picky but usually a good tek has photos illustrating the process from beginning to end :shrug:


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OfflineDr. Freeman
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: mushawarness]
    #25179263 - 05/02/18 06:39 AM (21 days, 18 hours ago)

Quote:

mushawarness said:
Quote:

tps said:
i tried sphagnum peat moss with just verm and had bad contams, i highly suggest using a buffer like mentioned before or else you could suffer the same consequences.


  I disagree with this. I've used it with no issue. it does contain decomposing organic matter, so it should be sterilized first. My first time using it I had one small fruit from a different species because I didn't sterilize it. It was consumed by my fungus though and I had a great couple flushes. The second time I sterilized and added vermiculite(50/50 mix) I also added a small amount of organic quinoa for extra nutrients. This was a great mixture and produced a lot of fruits.



First post is on an 13 years old thread?
Quinoa in the casing layer?
Adding grains to a casing layer is straight heresy.


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InvisiblebodhisattaM
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Re: Sphagnum peat moss for 50//50 casing? [Re: ShroomBilly]
    #25179331 - 05/02/18 06:39 AM (21 days, 18 hours ago)

This thread has been closed.

Reason:
Quote:

mushawarness said:
Quote:

tps said:
i tried sphagnum peat moss with just verm and had bad contams, i highly suggest using a buffer like mentioned before or else you could suffer the same consequences.


  I disagree with this. I've used it with no issue. it does contain decomposing organic matter, so it should be sterilized first. My first time using it I had one small fruit from a different species because I didn't sterilize it. It was consumed by my fungus though and I had a great couple flushes. The second time I sterilized and added vermiculite(50/50 mix) I also added a small amount of organic quinoa for extra nutrients. This was a great mixture and produced a lot of fruits.




Grain(quinoa) in a casing layer is called random luck if it doesn't fail right away.


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