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manOwar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28560861 - 11/29/23 02:15 PM (1 month, 28 days ago) |
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Quote:
tregar said:. I I'm no longer following the Gordotek method, learned the hard way on 1st grow it's not for me, too unsterile.
You keep missing an important point, of some of the most helpful comments. Your conclusion is the opposite of the message that many other users have been trying to get across to you. The source of your contamination is almost certainly because you sterilized your bulk substrate, and casing material, killing off the beneficial microbes, that provide protection from contamination. You seem to have hyper fixated on mycobags and decided that not using mycobags, was your mistake. But ignored the advice of much more experienced cultivators, none of whom mentioned mycobags as a solution to your problems. They have repeatedly mentioned that you don’t need to use your flow hood when inoculating your bulk substrate, or when adding your casing layer, because those materials should be pasteurized, rather than sterilized. If you do grow in mycobags, do not break the substrate up and dumpt into cake pans, that is a great way to kill the mycelium. Either use cake pans or mycobags, not both.
The main point here is that the TEK you used is not “too unsterile,” rather that it includes sterilization in unnecessary, counterproductive, or even harmful ways and sterile techniques in places where they are superfluous.
So if anything, the tek you used, is actually too sterile.
Edited by manOwar (11/29/23 02:22 PM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: manOwar]
#28564663 - 12/02/23 02:02 AM (1 month, 25 days ago) |
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Reishiman said:
Quote:
Op. Didn't read everything yet but I'm also trying to grow pans and have been having problems similar to you I think except I don't have a flow hood. Are you saying that pans are more difficult to grow on pasteurized substrate? I was thinking that my problems must be due to not having cleaned the original culture enough because I grew cubes alongside and those grew fine. I believe I've also seen numerous examples of pans grown on pasteurized substrate on this site. Either way I might try a sterilized substrate and maybe slurry inoculate them once I have some good cultures.
elasticaltiger said:
Quote:
Tregar thank you for T/A on page 1.
Prodigy, your sig always makes me grow a big rubbery one.
I could not be happier with the new grow.
I decided not to go the LC or liquid culture route.
1 month ago, I used a disposable sterile scalpel to scrape spores from off a pan cyan estero print onto 5 different agar plates in front of flow hood, worked terrific, I don't recommend starting from a spore syringe, I tried and it was no where near as fast as just flicking spores off a print into the agar.
Another easy way to do this is as follows from waylitjim: https://mycotopia.net/topic/3295-waylits-pan-cyan-tek-plastic-jars/
Quote:
3- inoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry I like to shoot these containers with 6 cc of mycelium water. This way the containers are completely colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit.
For mycelium water, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto an agar plate, mix up the mycelium and water using the needle tip, and draw back into the syringe. No need to dig into the agar layer, just wipe the myc. off the surface of the agar. (Note, when starting with spores, try adding more BRF to the recipe.)
When each grain jar had lid opened, and an agar wedge inserted in front of flow hood, the growth took off in just a couple of days. In 15 days all 5 jars were completely grown out with mycelium, I shook the jars every 5 days and this really speeded things up.
I already had several 3 lb bags of pre-pasteurized mix of horse manure, vermic, water, coir, wheat straw which I cut open and emptied each 3lb bag into 1 mycobag in front of flow hood.
I then sterilized both 3 lb bags in the pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. I added 3 quarts of water to canner.
I let cool overnight, then put mycobag in front of flow hood, removed the clothespins from bag, opened up bag in front of flow hood, and poured one whole jar of mycelium grown out grain into each of 2 bags. This was sealed immediately after with a 25.00 impulse sealer inside the flow hood, worked like a charm.
Kept at a constant 77 degree F with the myco tent with lava rock heater, to my disbelief, the bag already showed signs of pure white growth all over the place in the bag 1 day later, and 3 days later I could not believe how great they looked, over-run with mycelium, at this rate 7 more days and they will be ready to be crumbled up and put into 4.5 quart pyrex trays for 1 week to recover, I'll place foil over the pyrex and poke a few holes for gas exchange. Then each pyrex tray will be ready for the casing and fruiting.
Edited by tregar (12/03/23 08:06 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28566357 - 12/03/23 07:35 AM (1 month, 24 days ago) |
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Reishiman, to answer your kind question, detail for above post:
Found for less than price of a discounted movie ticket: 3lb bags of pre-pasteurized manure base casing mix, these can be found all over the net from all different places in various sizes. These bags come pre-pasteurized for two plus hours. They have horse manure, coir, shredded wheat straw, minerals, hydrated lime, ph buffers like gypsum, and correct amount of spring water to bring to field capacity.
Had simply cut open the bag and poured it into one 8 x 5 x 19 large unicorn 3T 0.2 micron filter bag, then sterilized it for 1 hour at 15 psi, this way to sterilize not only the unicorn bag but it's contents, asura and blue helix and waylitjim all sterlized their substrates, I'm not taking any chances.
These are two better photos on day 4 after pouring 1 grain spawn jar into each substrate bag, the original fan broke that was with tent, so the normal all day temp dropped from 77 to 74, replacing with a better pc fan on the way here soon. The fan acts like a convection oven, blowing warm air from the lava rock heater below upwards to all the martha tent. With a good fan, the tent maintains a constant 77 degree F all over tent when set with electronic thermostat.
The reason you still see clothespins on the bag is because after I impulse sealed the bags in front of flow hood using a twenty five dollar impulse sealer with 4,000 good reviews, I put the clips back on just to keep the top of bag upright (front falling over) as it lays against the side of martha tent.
Asura mentioned here https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049 to allow 10 days for the bags to grow out completely, and to break up the bag and gently mix things up again on day 5 which will be tomorrow for me to do.

Asura:
Quote:
Colonization
I let the bags colonize for ~10 days (at about 72°F) in a dark closet. I don't know if it's the lack of light, the still air in the closet or a combination of both, but my bags grow out better this way. Prior to doing this, I used to just keep the bags on a rack in the kitchen. I would see a lot of metabolite expression. Since moving to the closet, my growth is stronger and the bags are mostly metabolite free.
12 hours or so after inoculation, I gently mix up the substrate for the first time. At day 5, I will also break up the bag and gently mix things up again. By day 10, the bags should be ready to be laid to trays. If it is not,I will toss it.
Edited by tregar (12/03/23 11:24 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28588038 - 12/18/23 08:04 AM (1 month, 9 days ago) |
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18 days later the 3 bags are completely colonized, they were shaken once every 7 days, will allow around a week for it to continue to sit, blue helix recommended letting it sit a week (after it's colonized) before going to next stage...
...where the bags are cut open, broken up, and laid in a pyrex tray around 2" deep or so with foil put on top, and several toothpick holes poked to allow for air exchange, this next stage will be the reconsolidation stage for 5 days before the mm thick casing soil is put on top.
I noticed that when it was below 50 degrees outside, the temp in the tent would not go above 72 degrees at night or early morning, so modified the original heater by removing middle board, scooting it to the end, installing a second 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamp in parallel wiring with the 1st heat lamp, installed a larger baking pan on top, filled with lava rocks....this took around 1/2 hour for the modifications using a drill and screw driver and cutter for the wires.
....and installed a variable speed pc fan to blow the warm air upwards from the two ceramic heater lamps....works wonderfully! Now even though the mornings are below 40 degree F, and around 67 in the house at night, the temp still stays at a steady 77 degree F all day anywhere in the tent, morning, and night, the 2nd heat lamp made all the difference.
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28594899 - 12/23/23 07:04 AM (1 month, 4 days ago) |
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1st pic, after cutting open completely colonized bag in front of flow hood and crumbling and laying it out to a 4.8 quart pyrex tray, leveled with clean gloves pre-rinsed in 70% alcohol, covered with foil, poked some gas vent holes with tooth pic, and covered the holes with 0.22 micron 3m adhesive gas exchange tiny stickies.
To show that these pan cyan mushrooms can even be easily fruited from 1 pint wide mouth mason jars...
I had 2.5 to 3 lbs of leftover substrate (pre-pasteurized manure/coir/wheat straw mix), so I added several scoops to each of ten 1 pint mason jars from *arget or *almart and also found a dozen wide mouth lids with injection port and micron filters for cheap on-line, scooped the substrate into each jar, screwed micron filter lid onto each, covered with foil and pc sterilized all ten jars in pressure cooker for 1 hour at 15psi with 3 quarts water added to canner, let jars cool overnight, opened canner...
...and in front of flow hood, poured around 1" to 1.5" worth of grown out mycelium grain into each 1 pint jar, put lid back on, shook and swirled the jars to mix the grain with the horse manure substrate...
....put into martha tent between (temp controller set to 77 and 78 degrees F), and to my amazement, after only 1 day and night in tent, each of the ten jars shows super fast mycelium white snow like growth all over the jar...will shake the jars after 5 days, allow to grow out another 5 days, then will fruit easily just by adding a mm layer of sterile casing to ear jar, saturate casing with spray water, and place into fruiting chamber along with the pyrex trays which will be cased and fruited at same time.
It's freezing outside and lower than 65 degrees F at night, yet the martha tent with dual 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamps and variable speed pc fan that blows the warm air up like a convection oven easily keeps the temp between 77 and 79 degrees F, where I set it, no problem keeping it very warm all day and night.
Edited by tregar (12/23/23 07:17 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28596107 - 12/24/23 06:07 AM (1 month, 3 days ago) |
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Really impressed with the 1 pint wide mouth jars full of substrate (several 1/2 cup scoops), day 2 shows the ten jars almost 1/3rd grown out after adding only 1 to 1.25" inch of grown out pan cyan estero mycelium grown out grain, and shaking well. You can tell the mycelium really loves the pre-pasteurized mix of horse dung, coir, wheat straw, minerals, spring water mix that was sterilized for 1 hour at 15 psi in the 10 jars.
There is already puffy white snow like mycelium covering the surface of the inside of the jars. After 3 more days of growth, will shake the jars well, and allow to recuperate, consolidate and grow out another 5 days. Then will be ready to case with a few mm of sterile casing, saturate casing with spray water bottle, and fruit within the martha tent in no time.
The wide mouth filter disk lids with 0.2 micron filter are really useful.
Edited by tregar (12/24/23 06:26 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28599643 - 12/27/23 09:46 AM (1 month, 13 hours ago) |
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Day 5 since adding grains to the 10 pint jars full of substrate, turns out the jars will not need any shaking, nearly fully colonized...will allow 5 more days for 100% colonization, then will add a few mm sterile casing (that I sterilized today for 45 min at 15 psi, added 1 quart water to casing so that only a few drops of water fall out when fist of it made, will allow to cool overnight) to the 4.8 quart pyrex trays and jars a few days from now.
Pic 1: day 5, all of 10 jars nearly fully colonized pic 2: side of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes pic 3: bottom of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes

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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28600561 - 12/28/23 07:12 AM (30 days, 16 hours ago) |
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The next day, after the casing had cooled down in the pc overnight, poured around a 1/4" sterile casing onto top of trays in front of flow hood, used a fork that had been cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol to smooth out...then sprayed the casing layer down heavily with distilled water after it was in place, then (optional) put a foil cover over tray just for 24 hours as the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed that initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer, and put back into martha tent with temp controller set to normal 77 to 78 degree F.
The 10 pint jars will be ready to case in around 4 more days. They sit at bottom of tent waiting their turn soon.
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28602095 - 12/29/23 10:47 AM (29 days, 12 hours ago) |
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Asura said: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049
Quote:
Fruiting (Part 1)
Successful fruiting of pan cyans requires the understanding of these factors: humidity, evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE).
Temperature
Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.
FAE This is the easy part. FAE is always on. Sometimes that air is mixed with fog and sometimes it's just air. But there is always some amount of air going into the FC.
Some growers handle FAE using a repeat cycle timer that simultaneously pulls in fresh air while exhausting the old air. I prefer the always on model. It's just one less thing to think about.
Humidity & Evaporation
Pan cyans thrive a high humidity environment. However, evaporation is a major pinning trigger (by all observations). And evaporation cannot occur efficiently if your FC is always near 100% relative humidity (RH).
With this in mind, it's best to think of fruiting in two stages: pre-pin and post-pin.
During pre-pin, it's best to cycle humidity. I will set my humidity controller to a range around 90-98%. This means the fog will kick on at 90% and will shut off when it hits 98%. While on, moisture is being added and humidity will increase.
While off, humidity drops and evaporation will increase. This on/off cycle takes some amount of time, which is why some cultivators use a repeat cycle timer in lieu of a controller. Both can work well.
I don't want the environment to be too wet or too dry, so I do regularly adjust the range on my controller based on what I am seeing. Having an empty tray in the FC can really help with this dialing in. If my tray is bone dry when the cycle hits 90%, I know I can increase the range to something like 92-98%. If my tray is too wet at the high end, I might adjust the range to something like 90-97% or 90-96%. I will make whatever adjustments necessary based on what I am seeing with the empty tray.
In my current grow, for instance, I have the range set to 92-97%. These adjustments were made over the course of the first three days of fruiting.
Post-pin is easier to manage. Once, pinning has occurred the substrate will continue to put out flush after flush. I don't worry about the humidity cycling once the initial pinning has occurred. After the pins start coming in I usually set my controller to a tight range like 94-95% to keep the environment mostly humid. Even with the humidity on, some evaporation will still occur.
RogerRabbit said: You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself. Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.
After 24 hours removed the foil cover from trays which had several toothpick sized air holes in it...filled humidifier with water, set humidity on humidity controller to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, and TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity. Set variable PC fan blowing warm air up from the dual 150 watt ceramic lamp reptile lava rock heater to 2.5, low speed very quiet with still plenty of fresh air all thru the tent.
pic 1: trays look like this after removing the foil, substrate 100% colonized by the mycelium pic 2: monsoon humidifier blows a rolling humidity over the trays (and jars when cased in a few days) pic 3: humidity controller set to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity pic 4: variable pc fan set to around 2.5 speed (low) pic 5: monsoon humidifier set to around 3 setting (low) pic 6: day 7 after adding grown out mycelium grain (1 to 1.25") to each of 10 jars with substrate and shaking, will case all jars in around 3 more days.
 
Edited by tregar (12/29/23 10:58 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28604227 - 12/31/23 07:02 AM (27 days, 16 hours ago) |
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Ran across a problem with the Chinese made humidity controller I was originally using, it had no calibration feature, so even though the sensor was several points off, I was not able to calibrate to the actual real humidity in the tent, as I have 3 different humidity meters, all very accurate, while the Chinese made monitor was way off...
...so found a much better INKBIRD humidity monitor controller with built in up and down CALIBRATION buttons, so was able to calibrate the new humidity controller to the actual real humidity based on the other meters in the tent, I was able to set the target high humidity to 97 and the "turn on differential" to 90 degrees humidity, so it was able to turn on humidity when it fell below 90 and turn it off when it reached 97. This new one worked incredibly well compared to the Chinese model.
....also place a large rim plastic cup way underneath the monsoon humidity hose on one of the racks, as every so often built up drips of water at the end of the monsoon hose would fall into the cup placed below the output tube, so the water would not just get dumped into the bottom of the tent as it fell...this keeps it much cleaner inside, so no drips of water would fall into bottom of tent or any of the mushroom trays.
pic 1: this inkbird humidity monitor controller works very well all day and night to keep humidity at a set TURN ON AT 90, TURN OFF AT 97, easy to calibrate too.
pic 2...it's also important to keep the monsoon humidifier with it's long expandable hose higher than the actual spot where the hose enters the tent, this way the built up water in the hose will exit the hose into cup far below in the tent as it drips out, otherwise the water can get built up in hose and will cause humidity to stop output. I used 2 x 5 gallon buckets on top a wooden stool to raise the monsoon humidifier high enough.
pic 3: the variable pc fan had to be turned back up to normal "8" mid-high setting in order to keep blowing the warm air up and thru all the tent, this made it easy to keep temp anywhere I set it, normally at 77 to 78 degrees F, the fan speed cannot be turned on low, or the temp will not go above 75 degrees when it is freezing outside and below 65 in house. The mid high "8" setting works very well, no matter how cold it is, it's able to keep a constant 77 to 79 degrees F in all the racks of the tent.
Edited by tregar (12/31/23 07:29 AM)
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28613744 - 01/08/24 07:18 AM (19 days, 15 hours ago) |
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Don't make the same mistake I did, so after 1.5 weeks, not a single pin, and the humidity controller became a major pain in the ass, as it's calibration would fluctuate and it drove me a little bit mad having to watch and tend to it often...
...so I wen't back to what Gordotek recommended, and just put the monsoon humidifier on a timer, 1/2 hour on, then 1/2 hour off, all day and night long...
...also rolled up around 2" of the tent from the bottom and secured it with clothespins, put the ceiling fan on LOW in the room, and cracked a window around the width of a clothespin, this made a major difference, also cracked the door to the grow room around 2" all the time, and now the inside of the martha tent is no longer like a 24 hour rainforest.
...The FAE or fresh air exchange is perfect now...for 1/2 hour the humidity climbs from 80 to a perfect 97 degrees fairly quickly when ON, maintains the 97, inches up to 98 during the last 5 minutes of the 30 min ON cycle, then drops down to an ending 80 during the last 5 min of the 30 min OFF cycle very slowly when OFF, now I'm finally seeing evaporation from the surface of the casing during OFF and good moisture of the casing when ON.
As I've read in a dozen other martha tent topics on this forum, all the variables of a tent can be tricky, and why so many only use monotubs, but these are pans and would require a slightly different monotub design from your normal cubensis (babayaga covers this, see post #1 link)..but this at least solved the problem for me. Hope to see pins within days or a week now.
The temp is still at a perfect 77 degrees all day and night, as the 77 temp still maintains easily even with the cracked window (40 degrees outside and 65 inside at night) and even with the rolled up portion of tent, this is due to the double lamp reptile heater.
An empty saucer next to the grow during the humidity cycling shows hardly any condensation when the timer is OFF and then it shows some moisture but not wetness like you want when ON.
For the first time I've seen tiny pools of water (that were forming during the day) at the bottom of the tent floor on the stand finally evaporate, now it's dry, I was lacking any kind of FAE or evaporation before, and evaporation is a pinning trigger.
New optimal Settings: (1) variable speed pc fan at bottom of tent set to 2.5 (lowest setting, reduced from previous too high of 7) (2) monsoon humidifier set to "2" (3) ceiling fan in room set to "low"
In other words, just about everything set to "2" from the 2 inches of tent brought up, to the 2 on humidifier and 2 on pc fan.
Pic 1: rolled up the bottom of tent a tiny bit to allow FAE Pic 2: cracked a nearby window slightly all the time Pic 3: timer, push in every other button so that you get 1/2 hour ON and 1/2 hour OFF of the humidifier just like the gordotek grow.
Edited by tregar (01/08/24 10:24 AM)
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elasticaltiger
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28616318 - 01/10/24 12:01 PM (17 days, 11 hours ago) |
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Any fruits yet?
-------------------- First time growing cakes? DON'T make a Shotgun Fruiting Chamber The Shmuvbox. - The Old TC's Like it Afraid to Start Growing From Your Own Prints? Drop it Like a Tiger! No Pouring. No Syringes. No Cutting. No flaming. No Contamination. No Bullshit. "The best thing to do while your waiting is to start more stuff. I usually got so much happening that I have tossed projects simply because I didn't have time for them. -Pastywhite QFT Pastywhite's Easy Agar Tek (PastyPlates) Tiger Drop Video Demos By munchauzen Van Gogh would’ve sold more than one painting if he’d put tigers in them.―Bill Watterson EZEKIEL 23:20
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Mwj12977
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: elasticaltiger]
#28616707 - 01/10/24 06:10 PM (17 days, 5 hours ago) |
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Biggest issue I had with pans was the temperature difference between cubes. I was trying to colonize cubes and pans in the same space. Cube myc was taking off and the pans were not. Once I figured that out it was all good. It also colonized much slower than I was used to with cubes. I’m no expert and could be completely wrong here but raising the temps made them respond and gave me the desired results. As far as fruiting everything was in the same Martha and it all worked out well. Glad you posted this thread! I got some good info and insight from the community. I thank you for that and everyone for their thoughts.
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tregar
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: Mwj12977]
#28616733 - 01/10/24 06:36 PM (17 days, 4 hours ago) |
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elasticaltiger said:
Quote:
Any fruits yet?
Yes! finally today I came home and there are pins finally all over the trays!
mwj12977 said:
Quote:
Biggest issue I had with pans was the temperature difference between cubes. I was trying to colonize cubes and pans in the same space. Cube myc was taking off and the pans were not. Once I figured that out it was all good. It also colonized much slower than I was used to with cubes. I’m no expert and could be completely wrong here but raising the temps made them respond and gave me the desired results. As far as fruiting everything was in the same Martha and it all worked out well. Glad you posted this thread! I got some good info and insight from the community. I thank you for that and everyone for their thoughts.
Thanks mwj12977, the temp is at a constant 77 to 79 degrees in the tent even with the fan at the bottom of the tent on super low (2.5 lowest level) even though it's 40 degrees outside.
Yes, I'm super excited now, thanks for watching and tips elasticaltiger and mwj12977.
Got rid of the 24 hour rainforest conditions that got me no where for 1.5 week, did the following 2 days ago:
1. Cracking the window made all the difference for FAE, I lowered the crack in the window from 1" down to just 1/4" crack, and it allows in plenty of fresh air yet no noise from outside, and the crack is hidden well behind the blinds, yet loads of fresh air can now enter the room! I can even feel the wind coming in from the crack.
2. lowered the fresh air gap at the bottom of the tent from 2" down to just 1/2" opening, this allows around 3 plus or so fresh air exchanges per hour, which is great for pans, the 2" opening was overkill.
3. Installed one of those super bright LED strings from a reel and put it on a 12 hour time ON from 7am till 8pm.
I came home today after just 2 days of the above changes, and see pins all over the place, even on the sides of the pyrex, they all point upwards towards the light. I so happy to see pins as I've never seen a mushroom pin in all my life.
Super excited as I was loosing faith, this has been a long months long project with lots of learning curves.
Pic 1: Tent is rolled up 1/2" at bottom to allow FAE in, and CO2 to exit. Pic 2: A reel of LED lights was suspended above the trays, super bright, no more having to open any curtains, as the light coming into room was just not enough anyways. Pic 3: A window near the martha tent is cracked 1/4" at all times to allow FAE into the room
Edited by tregar (01/10/24 06:42 PM)
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elasticaltiger
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28618881 - 01/12/24 04:09 PM (15 days, 7 hours ago) |
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How are the fruits coming along? Any pictures yet?
-------------------- First time growing cakes? DON'T make a Shotgun Fruiting Chamber The Shmuvbox. - The Old TC's Like it Afraid to Start Growing From Your Own Prints? Drop it Like a Tiger! No Pouring. No Syringes. No Cutting. No flaming. No Contamination. No Bullshit. "The best thing to do while your waiting is to start more stuff. I usually got so much happening that I have tossed projects simply because I didn't have time for them. -Pastywhite QFT Pastywhite's Easy Agar Tek (PastyPlates) Tiger Drop Video Demos By munchauzen Van Gogh would’ve sold more than one painting if he’d put tigers in them.―Bill Watterson EZEKIEL 23:20
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tregar
Stranger


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 1,047
Last seen: 16 hours, 5 minutes
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: elasticaltiger]
#28628511 - 01/20/24 12:19 PM (7 days, 10 hours ago) |
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The tent for me at least has been a complete disaster, too many variable to contend with, nothing but aborts and no fruiting what so ever, side pins, even with a timer on a humidifier that goes up to 97% for 1/2 hour ON then down to 82% for 1/2 hour OFF has still not worked, and these are supposed to be optimum conditions for pan cyan. Variables that drive me crazy: how fast should fan run at bottom for FAE ?, how much of an opening on tent bottom ?, too moist ? too dry ? who knows..
I've switched to simplicity below, the tent can always be used to hold and grow grain jars, agar petri dishes, etc. at optimum temps.
Uses simply a sterile 54 quart (22.5 x 16 x 12.75") or a sterile 32 quart (18.5 x 14 7/8 x 11 1/8") tub
Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket
--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22337800/fpart/1/vc/1
Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."
--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27637997/vc/1
Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down."
Just grow pan cyans in unmodified sterlite 54 or 32 quart tubs, the lid does on upside down.
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elasticaltiger
Like Tigers in Coitus




Registered: 06/24/13
Posts: 8,042
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28628907 - 01/20/24 05:25 PM (7 days, 5 hours ago) |
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Tregar, you went into this with so much confidence. What was your experience with growing mushrooms before? I wish you had reached out to the community for help with the issues you were encountering.
How did you select your cultures for the grow? Is there anything salvageable? It sounds like you just needed help dialing in the martha. The TCs tend to really try and dissuade new growers from automated setups for the reasons you've mentioned. They can be notoriously difficult to dial in.
I hope the tubs work out for you.
-------------------- First time growing cakes? DON'T make a Shotgun Fruiting Chamber The Shmuvbox. - The Old TC's Like it Afraid to Start Growing From Your Own Prints? Drop it Like a Tiger! No Pouring. No Syringes. No Cutting. No flaming. No Contamination. No Bullshit. "The best thing to do while your waiting is to start more stuff. I usually got so much happening that I have tossed projects simply because I didn't have time for them. -Pastywhite QFT Pastywhite's Easy Agar Tek (PastyPlates) Tiger Drop Video Demos By munchauzen Van Gogh would’ve sold more than one painting if he’d put tigers in them.―Bill Watterson EZEKIEL 23:20
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tregar
Stranger


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 1,047
Last seen: 16 hours, 5 minutes
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: elasticaltiger]
#28630747 - 01/22/24 08:00 AM (5 days, 15 hours ago) |
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Elasticaltiger said:
Quote:
Tregar, you went into this with so much confidence. What was your experience with growing mushrooms before? I wish you had reached out to the community for help with the issues you were encountering.
How did you select your cultures for the grow? Is there anything salvageable? It sounds like you just needed help dialing in the martha. The TCs tend to really try and dissuade new growers from automated setups for the reasons you've mentioned. They can be notoriously difficult to dial in.
I hope the tubs work out for you.
Elasticaltiger...I've always been a good chemist, but really suck at growing all things, it's always been like that, give me something to extract, no problem, but I can't grow a darn thing.
I need help. I turned off the fan at the bottom of the martha tent, and turned on the ceiling fan to MEDIUM setting in the room, and changed tent bottom opening from 1.5" to 2.5".
This might be helping? the humidity goes up to 97 quickly while on 1/2 humidifier ON then down to 90 when OFF, perhaps it was drying out too quickly before, as humidity was dropping to 75 or 80 before. Now at least, it stays at 90 while off even when cold outside, this is more like the humidity parameters Asura used.
I will see how this works.
The window is still cracked 1/4" to allow fresh air into room also (depending on temp outside).
I don't know if the unmodified tubs will work during the winter as it get's down to 60 degrees in room at night, at least the tent stays warm.
Fresh air easily enters the tent from the bottom part that is rolled up due to ceiling fan running on MED, it's more of a slower air exchange which is what I think I needed, as things were drying up too quickly before.
I'll open up another colonized mycobag, put into tent and case 1/2 of it with just a few mm casing, other 1/2 of it uncased to see how it goes.
The fully colonized jars received only a few mm of casing and have also not reponding with pins or fruits at all, I'm hoping this modification with FAE helps.
It really sucks that I had clean grains, spawn and 100% still clean and colonized substrate in not only dishes (which I have since moved into aluminum cake pans) but jars as well. I did the hard part fine, people say fruiting is supposed to be easy, but just the opposite for me, may give up for good, to see no results. Work long weeks, work out twice a week as life long bodybuilder, little free time, just loosing faith in all this down the drain work. I've drank cactus tea over 150 times over many years, if this doesn't work, gonna stick with my cactus, just thought it might be possible to have an alternative as my rare cactus only provides so many limited opportunities for tripping, which have all exceeded my expectations anyways. The zero nausea Ayahausca capsules always work great, so either way I can just go back to what I'm used to....just took on more that I can handle.
Edited by tregar (01/22/24 08:26 AM)
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tregar
Stranger


Registered: 08/30/04
Posts: 1,047
Last seen: 16 hours, 5 minutes
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Re: Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms [Re: tregar]
#28635839 - 01/26/24 04:28 PM (1 day, 6 hours ago) |
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This is my thread on 50 pan cyan trip reports and combo with 70mg THH or pure tetrahydroharmine: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1
Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket
--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22337800/fpart/1/vc/1
Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."
--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27637997/vc/1
Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down." ------------------------------------------------------------ Great news!
I ditched the martha tent (only use it to grow out grains, jars, or mycobags, love both). As I had to throw out the cake pan from the attempted fruit in martha tent due to it just not fruiting, lack of pins. Too many variables to adjust and trial and error for a martha at least for this beginner.
And put the estero pan cyan substrate cakes which I birthed and 2 new estero pan cyan completely colonized substrate from the mycobags into 2 cake pans, this is what they look like only 3 days later, almost reconsolidated back together as pure white snow all over the top.
And bought 2 of the 54 quart sterilite clear gasket tubs, put the birthed cakes into it, along with the 2 cake pans.
I put programmable seedling heat mats under the tub but separated by can lids, so not touching, set thermostat to keep it at 80 degrees below, and the tubs stay at 76 degrees even when it's 55 degrees outside and around 70 degrees F inside the house at night. The air outside is humid due to lots of rain outside recently.
Punched holes in a piece of box cardboard to run the LED string light that comes on a reel, and plugged it into the timer that turns it on from 7am till 7pm.
The lid is of course put on upside down as per Bod's tek in first link below, ceiling fan off but I do keep the window cracked 1/4" behind the blinds which lets in a bit of fresh air from outside.
I misted only once the 1st day, and already see baby mushrooms all over the 7 jar cakes, the 2 cake pans should finish substrate reconsolidation after being moved from 100% colonized mycobag to the cake pans in about 3 more days, the mycelium is moving super fast to make it like snow all over the top.
Here is an estero pan cyan mushroom I picked from one of the cakes already.
I did not have any pins or mushrooms what so ever using expensive humidifiers and dual reptile heater at bottom with adjustable fan, while using the martha tent for almost over a month now...and all the sudden after moving into the Bod's tubs I have mushrooms in just 2 days!
The humidity stays between 94 to 99% all the time in the tub and the temp at 76 degrees F as I have electronic temp/humidity gauges in each tub.
I am so excited as the martha tent did not work for me, but the tubs rule at least in my case, so happy! I see baby mushrooms popping up all over the cakes just since yesterday!
Thank you Bod and Baba Yaga !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pic 1: I'm growing in two of the 54 quart sterlite tubs, and it's working !!! Pic 2: Inside of one of the two tubs, the 7 birthed cakes the very first day they were put into tub, no mushrooms 1st day, but by next day, I have baby mushrooms all over the cakes, will take another pic when full grown. Pic 3: I have a Vivo Home seedling heat mat 10" x 20.75" under each tub with can lids as spacers, and they fit perfectly and keep it perfect temp inside even with it being 55 degrees outside. Pic 4: This estero pan cyan mushroom was picked already. Pic 5: Piece of cardboard with punched holes on each end from large box with LED strip light reel is the lighting fixture. Pic 6: Timer to keep lights on for 12 hours Pic 7: LED strip light reel for price of a movie ticket. Pic 8: Programmable seedling heat mat set to 80 degrees F underneath jar lids keeps it 76 degrees inside tubs during this January winter, even when it dips down to 50 degrees outside and 68 degrees in the house at night. Temp sensor probe for mats is stuffed underneath the heat mat itself as seen in 1st and 5th photos. Pic 9: My pan cyan substrate broken up and added from mycobag seen fully reconsolidated in the cake pans or pyrex dish after 6 days. Pic 10: Even adding a bit of grown out mycelium grain to jars full of sterilized horse poo/straw/vermiculite substrate become colonized in record time. I simply bought pre-packaged and pre-pasteurized 2.5 lbs bags of horse poo mixture substrate on line, added 2 cups or so to each pint jar, put lids on, sterilized at 15 psi for 1 hour, then in front of flow hood, poured some mycelium grain in, shook up, and it colonizes in a week. Pic 11: The wide mouth jar cultivation lids with injection port and 0.2 micron filter can be bought on line for super cheap Pic 12 and 13: The grain I started with, added wedges from Florida estero pan cyan agar plates to grain in front of flow hood.

Edited by tregar (01/27/24 07:10 AM)
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