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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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The temperature during the day was 76 degrees F and at night 71 degrees F, and this is how it appears days later with those temps, very good growth...however, decided to speed the growth up now by placing a heat mat under each of the 3 trays (2 heat mats) and set them to 25 degrees C (78 degrees F), this way at night, the growth will continue to be very fast...using this method, expect to see the trays finish in just a few more days...still zero contamination, all pure white mycelium like snow, ceiling fan above always runs on low.
If his (Gordotek) method works, I'll end up with a lifetimes worth of panaeolus +5 level trips on just a single grow. We shall see. As a long time chemist, my method of making tetrahydroharmine (see post #1 link) using zinc dust or granules is completely different from his method which uses magnesium which I would never follow. However, as far as I can tell, we are the only 2 people who have posted totally different methods on how to make pure THH. I also do not smoke or vape dmt as he does in another video he has, as I prefer the oral only method of traditional Ayahuasca, combining it with at least 100mg of pure THH. I've used oral Ayahuasca capsules at least 90 plus times over many years. I march to the beat of my own drum. I don't make videos and don't like Patreon as you have to pay money to join, so there are indeed many things I do very differently. I can see why he posted his video on Patreon however, as You tube banned it. You can't even get Caapi on ebay anymore, much less psychotria. "The man" has taken over media and auction monopoly. But you can still buy material items like Caapi necklaces, materialism still rules the Western world. If you like LSD like I do, combine panaeolus with at least 100mg of the pure betacarboline THH, it's quite incredible, like a long lasting natural version of LSD. I give experiences from others who have tried the same combination in the link in post #1. Edited by tregar (10/03/23 03:13 PM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Gordotek said:
Quote: Since the temp at night was 70 degree F, the heating mat did the trick, after 3 days each of the 6 cake pans had completed snow white mycelium coverings, kept each heating mat at around 76 to 78 degrees F. It has auto-shutoff once temp goes above 77 degree in room. These programmable heat mats even come in packs of 4 for dirt cheap combo. The Estero variety panaeolus (native to Florida) seems to prefer a constant 77 degree F. Temps between 70 to 85 degrees F work well. 1. This is how each of the 6 cake pans looked before I took the cover off in front of flow hood. Notice the tiny indoor humidity and temperature monitor placed on edge on top of each heat mat to monitor the programmed temperature, to make sure it was working. 2. Even though I used 2 mycobags full of casing dry mix, turns out I only needed one bag's worth in order to cover each of the 6 cake pans with a 1/4" layer. The casing dry mix is a proprietary blend of peat moss, vermiculite, gypsum calcium phosphate that was bought dirt cheap. The exact recipe is given in Gordotek's writings: https://www.patreon.com/posts/4 3. A 23 qt presto pressure canner was used to sterilize the soil at 15 psi for 45 minutes. It's very easy to use a canner, all you need to know comes with the instructions with the canner. 1. When you get your canner, just screw on the dial pressure gauge that comes with it by hand, put tray into canner that sits around 1/2" above the bottom, add 3 quarts of hot water to the pressure canner, put your mycobags full of soil into canner (make sure you have a couple clothespins holding it flapped over shut), put lid on canner and rotate it to closed, heat up canner on "8" or so stove setting. Watch air steam vent out of the open vent pipe for 10 minutes. Then put the pressure regulator on the vent pipe, the pressure regulator may begin to rock before pressure builds. Watch as pressure builds in canner, once the dial indicates you have between 10 to 15 psi, turn down the heat to "6" or medium or so, and allow canner to PC cook for 45 minutes. The bags can withstand the temperature no problem. They will not melt. Do not remove the pressure regulator from the vent pipe until the pressure has gone back down to zero. 4. Cooker was removed from burner and allowed to cool overnight. Lid was removed from cooker. This is how the 2 casing bags looked the next day inside the cooker. 5. The lid was removed from each cake pan in front of the flow hood. 6. This is a closeup of one of the cake pans. 7. With clean hands (pre rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and hands allowed to dry quickly in front of flow hood, the mycobag was held over the cake pan, easily eye'd an amount of casing out over the cake pan so that a 1/4" layer was spread out in a smooth even layer. I lightly tapped the layer down and sprayed it heavily with distilled water after it was in place. 8. This is pic of all 6 cake pans after casing layer was placed. Optionally I put the top back on each cake pan (the inside of the lids were pre-wiped with 91% isopropyl alcohol and allowed to quickly dry). The lids are being put on just for 24 hours, the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed the initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer. This may be helpful especially if your grow area is colder than 70F.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Maybe there is some confusion, I only use the 91% isopropyl alcohol to rinse my hands and let dry quickly in front of flow hood before pouring casing over cake pans, patting down casing, etc.
Phase II: There is little chance of contamination once the casing layer is on as Gordotek states. After 24 hours, I will remove the lids, and start the humidifier timer cycle. 1) Gather materials: Spray water bottle, monsoon humidifier with stretchable hose, a few humidity/temp monitors, mechanical timer. 2) Instructions for adding water to humidifier: 3) Program timer to turn humidifier on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour by first lifting every black button, then pressing down every other button. 4) All cake pans can be put into an empty kiddy swimming pool in a room to create a "sink/catch" for the fog or into a spare bathtub, we want to make a makeshift "tub/pool". First put down the programmable heat mats, set temp to around 76 degree F, place a humidity/temp monitor on each mat, then put cake trays on the mats, pre-spray the tub with lysol, clean well in advance. Since my spouse will be using the mushrooms at threshold doses to treat her migraines (hopefully they will eliminate her migraines for weeks at a time, as she now gets them daily or every few days due to an ear infection back in June that finally went away months later but left here with this current head condition), she let me use a spare bath tub. Gordotek said Quote: Edited by tregar (10/08/23 02:13 PM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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5) In operation: Humidifier quickly achieved a 98% humidity set to "high range" so turned it down to "low range" via it's dial, timed to be on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour, 1/2 hour off. It's cool to view the fog flow all around the tub above the cakes, hovering and moving in a counterclockwise direction across the whole tub.
Placed a drape across the front of bath tub using a thumbtack on either side, and left one far side open an inch to allow air flow, and kept the overhead bathroom vent on all the time, although this does not probably matter, on or off probably no difference. A/C vent in ceiling provides fresh air all day long, and keep the bathroom door closed or cracked an inch, you decide.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Totally agree with you treefrog....if I were to do this over again, I would have definitely used mycobags and an impulse sealer (well worth the cost) to mix the grain with the substrate...then when it's all grown out, simply break open the bag and crumble it into a fresh clean tray in front of flow hood and add the 1/4" sterile casing. So what if it takes an extra week to colonize...
...as I lost a container due to contamination...this would not have happened with the mycobags mix. I cut around the contamination outside which was centered in one area, and broke up the rest and put it in an outdoor garden container with a 1/2" left over sterile substrate to fend for itself, luckily the humidity is perfect 95% degres outside after a rain, and 76 degrees F. So who knows....
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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For the tray I threw out due to contamination a week ago, I cut away all the good substrate from around the contamination and first put a layer of wet perlite into a garden container outside, then crumbled the good substrate on top the wet perlite, and added a 1/4" layer of left over sterile casing soil on top...this is all growing outside, I water it daily lightly with a watering can, and the temps and humidity are actually perfect outside except for night when it can dip. This I learned how to do for an outdoor grow from the 1st paragraph of this link: https://www.shroomery.org/8421/
1st pic above several days after moving into humidified bathtub (1/2 hour on, 1/2 hour off) the mycelium can be seen tunneling it's way to the top of the casing. 2nd pic pinheads are forming all over the place, closeup of a few of them. Soon, will be moving the trays into a Martha tent ecosphere that was given to me by a dear friend who is moving to another state into a smaller place, what a surprise, as this will come in real handy, this way the bathroom can be freed up, and the tent will be able to maintain a constant 77 degrees to 80 degrees, however I set it, due to it having a bulb on the bottom which is a regular old infrared, heat emitting bulb for reptiles. It screws into the power source, and sit's under a tray full of lava rocks. A programmable thermostat regulates the bulb for the perfect set temp. Even currently with a heater in the bathroom set to go off to maintain 80 degrees F, I just can't get the temp to go over 73 degrees F most of the time near the trays, except for the afternoon when it's 76 degrees, at night the temp can fall low to 70 degrees (and the heater is turned off so no fire hazard) and the heating pads I'm getting rid of too. The martha tent with the reptile lamp at bottom is definitely an innovative alternative to a ceramic/coil space heater which almost always gets too hot and throws a stream of heat, where as with this the lava rocks diffuse it. That is the main function of the lava rocks, kinda like perlite with it's wicking properties. The monsoon humidifier I have will be put to good use to throw out humidity from the top downwards, still going on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour then shutting off for 1/2 hour and repeat like this all day...and there is a 5" fan at bottom to push air, and large holes covered with replaceable large peel and stick micron filter patches to allow air exchange in several places all over tent. A drip tray that sits under the martha collects any excess water running down the tent. A problem noticed with the bathtub is that water likes to collect in tiny pools here and there. Evaporation is taking place every 1/2 hour when the humidifier is off for 1/2 hour, and this is important as Jakeoncid419 saids below, as it's just not the temp but the evaporation that makes the difference in how good your pin set will be. Jakeoncid49: https://www.shroomery.org/forum Mary Fairchild: https://www.shroomery.org/forum Jakeoncid419 said: Quote: As mentioned earlier, one mistake I made was not mixing my grown out grain into the substrate in mycobags in front of flow hood, sealing them, and letting them grow out 100% in a sterile environment like the mycobag...I noticed that when I put the trays into the fruiting chamber, they were maybe only about 75% colonized, which is why it's taking so long for the pins to form...as the mycelium needs to first colonize the substrate fully, that way it's not still doing it when you case the trays, as the pins are only going to form once the substrate is fully colonized. Here's a pic of how I should have poured my shook up grain into the substrate loaded into mycobags: https://www.shroomery.org/8695/ Spent a good day reading thru all the teks I posted here on post #1 from all the other experienced pan growers to learn all I could: https://www.shroomery.org/forum Edited by tregar (10/16/23 01:19 PM)
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Registered: 10/24/21 Posts: 591 Loc: 🍄 Last seen: 2 months, 14 days |
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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I ended up tossing the rest of the trays this morning as the contamination spread in the fruiting chamber, this is what happens when u don't grow ur substrate out in mycobags and when u don't let the substrate mycelium grow out 100 percent.
I'm starting all over again, gordotek has some obvious flaws to his method. Look forward to using the Martha ecosphere, have it now, and will begin with agar this time. Will put the tent to use by letting the grain jars incubate at optimum temp in the tent. I will document it all if it works out this time.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Moonyham said:
Quote: Hi moonyham, this is with the pan cyan grass/dung lovers strain, long considered the crown jewel of mushrooms, slightly harder than cubensis to grow, and the trips are way more visual, very euphoric, very intricate fractal and geometric visuals like acid with saturated tropical colors. Several of my indoor containers contaminated as I did not use mycobags to grow out the substrate...I followed a tek where they were not used, now I know better next time to use them. More on this variety with 50 trip reports: https://www.shroomery.org/forum Modern research has determined that the pan cyan strain of mushrooms with their HIGH BAEOCYSTIN and related analogues content hit the adrenal receptors with as much force as MESCALINE or DMT, see chart below. Notice how just plain psilocin alone hits the 3 adrenal receptors (responsible for enhanced colors, euphoria, beauty and music enhancement) with lighter activity. Attached: Structure–Activity Relationships for Psilocybin, Baeocystin, Aeruginascin, and Related Analogues to Produce Pharmacological Effects in Mice, ACS Pharmacol. Transl. Sci. 2022, 5, 11, 1181–1196: https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.102 by Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta, Stacie DeBoer, James A. Golen, Elliott B. Hulley, Christophe P. Stove, Andrew R. Chadeayne, David R. Manke, and Michael H. Baumann. -------------------------------- Outdoor panaeolus cyanescens strain estero grow looks promising: Of the 5 trays in the indoor grow bathtub, 2 of the containers did not contaminate, so 5 days ago, I took the two good containers outside, used a clean fork to scrape off the top layer of casing, and crumbled up the good substrate into two outdoor garden containers, I threw out what was in the outdoor container before, cleaned the inside of containers out well with a garden hose... ...and then added a 3" layer of wet perlite (for constant humidity) to the very bottom (as I did not have enough before) then crumbled in the good substrate with clean sanitized spoon, added a 1/4" layer of sterile casing to the top, and gave it a good watering with a watering can to soak the contents of the entire container, each day in morning I lightly water the container's top casing layer for around 1 second with a nearby watering can...if it ever gets super dry I'll give it a longer soak. ...to my surprise 5 days later there is pure white mycelium growing thru the casing layer! It's looks as if I was able salvage two of the containers as they are now growing well in the outdoor containers...the weather is perfect, between 73 and 85 during day, kept in shaded area, it rained yesterday with perfect 76 degree weather all day, and humidity varies between medium to high daily. So it appears as if all is not lost... What's even more amazing is that when I remember crumbling the substrate into the outdoor containers, only about 50% of the substrate was even grown out before, so somehow, outdoors the rest of the substrate was able to fully colonize in just 5 days, otherwise it would not be currently growing out or "tunneling thru" the casing layer, as this does not normally happen unless the substrate is fully colonized below. I have lots of outdoor containers of the same color, it's very rewarding to be able to grow outside, and since I live in a state where these naturally grow outside, I will continue to grow like this, it's just plain fun. Edited by tregar (10/25/23 12:47 PM)
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Stranger Registered: 06/17/20 Posts: 294 Last seen: 29 days, 26 minutes |
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I'm not sure the reasoning why but I have had varied success following a similar method to Gordotek where I mix colonized grain spawn with pasteurized substrate. Despite grain spawn jars looking and smelling clean, when things have contaminated, they've either contaminated after casing (trichoderma) or prior to casing (when I would go to case, I could smell bacteria which I assume is set to fail eventually If I smell that). I don't know where the vector of contamination is.
Other times I've been perfectly fine it seems without using the myco bag method(instead I did what you did here and just spawned colonized grain to prepared substrate in front of flow hood) which makes me think its either my grain spawn or possibly substrate not being pasteurized properly when things contaminated but I dont know. I built a pasteurizer using an 50 quart cooler and I try to get the center of my substrate to around 160 for 2 hours. I let them cool and sit for 2-3 days before I use it usually. I'm experimenting further around the subject of trays going bacterial. I'm wondering if It may be due to not enough air during colonization period once I mix spawn with substrate. The reason I'm wondering this, is some of my trays that have had very little room left in them between the sub surface and the lid once filled, have mostly gone bacterial so I wonder if it's anaerobic in these particular situations. I've put a few small holes on the lids with a layer of micropore or I've also used the "takeout" trays with no holes and tried to leave the lid loose but I don't think it allows air to flow. So I filled some trays less and tried not to pack the substrate down very much. I see you have plenty of room between sub surface and your lid tops with air filters on them. I will try colonizing in mycobags. I've been really perplexed why some trays have contaminated despite the spawn smelling and looking normal, it is disappointing when it happens. Edited by Timestop413 (10/27/23 08:50 AM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Timestop413 said:
Quote: So good to hear from you my dear friend Timestop413, your comments are much appreciated! I picked up a 50 pack of the good unicorn spawn bags with filter patch. I believe that one of the sources of my contamination was early on when I was mixing the grain with the bulk substrate, I remember NOT cleaning the grain jar with rubbing alchohol on outside, and I had touched the outer surface of the jar many times at the same time I mixed the grain with the substrate, introducing a whole load of contaminants into the bulk substrate, a big no no. Like you I look forward to colonizing in mycobags this time, thanks for sharing your grow story, so cool to see you giving this a shot as well. Started over, doing this the right way, 2nd time is a charm. 1. Under flow hood, for 1/2 half the agar plates, shot 1 cc of estero pan cyan into each plate, visible spores all thru plate, sealed with parafilm. For the other 5 plates, scraped spores from estero spore print into dish using a disposable, sterile scalpels (10 for cheap), all done in front of flow hood. 2. The mushroom ecosphere greenhouse took only 2 hours to assemble, complete dream come true, set the temp you want for inside the greenhouse, and the martha tent does the rest, notice heat source at bottom with lava rocks to diffuse the heat, and fan next to it to act as a convection oven, fresh warm air being sent upwards, fresh air flow is key. Notice polyfil filter discs attached 4" above each shelf, centered on tent, 4 on each side, and 1 on front, 1 on back of tent.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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5 days later: The 5 agar plates that had spores scraped into them from off an estero pan cyan spore print using a sterile scalpel to scrape them off in front of a flow hood all show wonderful growth, around a 1/2" or more growth of mycelium in a circle surrounds all the spore deposit spots.
The lava rock heater works great without any water put into the rock bin. I found when water is put in it just creates humidity in the tent, not necessary during the agar or grain grow. It can be 50 degrees outside and 65 to 70 degree F in house, and yet the temp controller can be set to 77 degrees F, and the 77 degree F heating is maintained all day and night. When the agar plates are completely grown out several days from now, will cut several wedges from each plate using sterile disposable scalpel and drop them into a sterile grain jar by removing lid in front of flow hood, and allow the grain to grow out. Have 6 sterile grain jars ready to accept wedges when ready. Asura said: Quote: https://www.shroomery.org/forum
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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(1) I dropped 3 agar wedges into each of the 6 grain jars, and the mycelium 3 days later hopped off the agar and onto the grain, pure white mycelium now growing on the grain. This will be a separate grow along side a grow identical to Asura's below:
(2) I decided to follow Asura's "cultivating panaeolus cyanescens" word for word for the main 2nd grow consisting of two large unicorn mycobags full of substrate/supplemental grain. I want to compare the two grows side by side. In case one fails, hopefully the other will make it to the end, but I'm hoping both will make it. https://www.shroomery.org/forum I'm starting with an LC prepared from a single estero pan cyan spore syringe. There are pre-sterilized LC kits all over the web that make this super easy, just inject your syringe into the medium. In just a few days, it is ready to inject into your substrate/grain medium. I have the following: dried horse manure, millet, vermiculite, straw, spring water, 50 pack of the 0.2 micron spawn bags (specifically Unicorn 3T 8"X5"X19"), and two of the 3 quart pyrex trays. Asura said: Quote:
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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I could not be happier with the new grow.
I decided not to go the LC or liquid culture route. 1 month ago, I used a disposable sterile scalpel to scrape spores from off a pan cyan estero print onto 5 different agar plates in front of flow hood, worked terrific, I don't recommend starting from a spore syringe, I tried and it was no where near as fast as just flicking spores off a print into the agar. Another easy way to do this is as follows from waylitjim: https://mycotopia.net/topic/329 Quote: When each grain jar had lid opened, and an agar wedge inserted in front of flow hood, the growth took off in just a couple of days. In 15 days all 5 jars were completely grown out with mycelium, I shook the jars every 5 days and this really speeded things up. I already had several 3 lb bags of pre-pasteurized mix of horse manure, vermic, water, coir, wheat straw which I cut open and emptied each 3lb bag into 1 mycobag in front of flow hood. I then sterilized both 3 lb bags in the pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. I added 3 quarts of water to canner. I let cool overnight, then put mycobag in front of flow hood, removed the clothespins from bag, opened up bag in front of flow hood, and poured one whole jar of mycelium grown out grain into each of 2 bags. This was sealed immediately after with a 25.00 impulse sealer inside the flow hood, worked like a charm. Kept at a constant 77 degree F with the myco tent with lava rock heater, to my disbelief, the bag already showed signs of pure white growth all over the place in the bag 1 day later, and 3 days later I could not believe how great they looked, over-run with mycelium, at this rate 7 more days and they will be ready to be crumbled up and put into 4.5 quart pyrex trays for 1 week to recover, I'll place foil over the pyrex and poke a few holes for gas exchange. Then each pyrex tray will be ready for the casing and fruiting. Edited by tregar (12/02/23 02:13 AM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Found for less than price of a discounted movie ticket: 3lb bags of pre-pasteurized manure base casing mix, these can be found all over the net from all different places in various sizes. These bags come pre-pasteurized for two plus hours. They have horse manure, coir, shredded wheat straw, minerals, hydrated lime, ph buffers like gypsum, and correct amount of spring water to bring to field capacity.
Had simply cut open the bag and poured it into one 8 x 5 x 19 large unicorn 0.2 micron filter bag, then sterilized it for 1 hour at 15 psi, this way to sterilize not only the unicorn bag but it's contents, asura and blue helix and waylitjim all sterlized their substrates, I'm not taking any chances. These are two better photos on day 4 after pouring 1 grain spawn jar into each substrate bag, the original fan broke that was with tent, so the normal all day temp dropped from 77 to 74, replacing with a better pc fan on the way here soon. The fan acts like a convection oven, blowing warm air from the lava rock heater below upwards to all the martha tent. With a good fan, the tent maintains a constant 77 degree F all over tent when set with electronic thermostat. The reason you still see clothespins on the bag is because after I impulse sealed the bags in front of flow hood using a twenty five dollar impulse sealer with 4,000 good reviews, I put the clips back on just to keep the top of bag upright (front falling over) as it lays against the side of martha tent. Asura mentioned here https://www.shroomery.org/forum Asura: Quote: Edited by tregar (12/03/23 11:23 AM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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18 days later the 3 bags are completely colonized, they were shaken once every 7 days, will allow around a week for it to continue to sit, blue helix recommended letting it sit a week (after it's colonized) before going to next stage...
...where the bags are cut open, broken up, and laid in a pyrex tray around 2" deep or so with foil put on top, and several toothpick holes poked to allow for air exchange, this next stage will be the reconsolidation stage for 5 days before the mm thick casing soil is put on top. I noticed that when it was below 50 degrees outside, the temp in the tent would not go above 72 degrees at night or early morning, so modified the original heater by removing middle board, scooting it to the end, installing a second 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamp in parallel wiring with the 1st heat lamp, installed a larger baking pan on top, filled with lava rocks....this took around 1/2 hour for the modifications using a drill and screw driver and cutter for the wires. ....and installed a variable speed pc fan to blow the warm air upwards from the two ceramic heater lamps....works wonderfully! Now even though the mornings are below 40 degree F, and around 67 in the house at night, the temp still stays at a steady 77 degree F all day anywhere in the tent, morning, and night, the 2nd heat lamp made all the difference.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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1st pic, after cutting open completely colonized bag in front of flow hood and crumbling and laying it out to a 4.8 quart pyrex tray, leveled with clean gloves pre-rinsed in 70% alcohol, covered with foil, poked some gas vent holes with tooth pic, and covered the holes with 0.22 micron 3m adhesive gas exchange tiny stickies.
To show that these pan cyan mushrooms can even be easily fruited from 1 pint wide mouth mason jars... I had 2.5 to 3 lbs of leftover substrate (pre-pasteurized manure/coir/wheat straw mix), so I added several scoops to each of ten 1 pint mason jars from *arget or *almart and also found a dozen wide mouth lids with injection port and micron filters for cheap on-line, scooped the substrate into each jar, screwed micron filter lid onto each, covered with foil and pc sterilized all ten jars in pressure cooker for 1 hour at 15psi with 3 quarts water added to canner, let jars cool overnight, opened canner... ...and in front of flow hood, poured around 1" to 1.5" worth of grown out mycelium grain into each 1 pint jar, put lid back on, shook and swirled the jars to mix the grain with the horse manure substrate... ....put into martha tent between (temp controller set to 77 and 78 degrees F), and to my amazement, after only 1 day and night in tent, each of the ten jars shows super fast mycelium white snow like growth all over the jar...will shake the jars after 5 days, allow to grow out another 5 days, then will fruit easily just by adding a mm layer of sterile casing to ear jar, saturate casing with spray water, and place into fruiting chamber along with the pyrex trays which will be cased and fruited at same time. It's freezing outside and lower than 65 degrees F at night, yet the martha tent with dual 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamps and variable speed pc fan that blows the warm air up like a convection oven easily keeps the temp between 77 and 79 degrees F, where I set it, no problem keeping it very warm all day and night. Edited by tregar (12/23/23 07:13 AM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Really impressed with the 1 pint wide mouth jars full of substrate (several 1/2 cup scoops), day 2 shows the ten jars almost 1/3rd grown out after adding only 1 to 1.25" inch of grown out pan cyan estero mycelium grown out grain, and shaking well. You can tell the mycelium really loves the pre-pasteurized mix of horse dung, coir, wheat straw, minerals, spring water mix that was sterilized for 1 hour at 15 psi in the 10 jars.
There is already puffy white snow like mycelium covering the surface of the inside of the jars. After 3 more days of growth, will shake the jars well, and allow to recuperate, consolidate and grow out another 5 days. Then will be ready to case with a few mm of sterile casing, saturate casing with spray water bottle, and fruit within the martha tent in no time. The wide mouth filter disk lids with 0.2 micron filter are really useful.
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Day 5 since adding grains to the 10 pint jars full of substrate, turns out the jars will not need any shaking, nearly fully colonized...will allow 5 more days for 100% colonization, then will add a few mm sterile casing (that I sterilized today for 45 min at 15 psi, added 1 quart water to casing so that only a few drops of water fall out when fist of it made, will allow to cool overnight) to the 4.8 quart pyrex trays and jars a few days from now.
Pic 1: day 5, all of 10 jars nearly fully colonized pic 2: side of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes pic 3: bottom of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes
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Stranger Registered: 08/30/04 Posts: 1,049 Last seen: 1 hour, 49 minutes |
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Next day, after the casing had cooled down in the pc overnight, poured around a 1/4" sterile casing onto top of trays in front of flow hood, used a fork that had been cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol to smooth out...then sprayed the casing layer down heavily with distilled water after it was in place, then (optional) put a foil cover over tray just for 24 hours as the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed that initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer, and put back into martha tent with temp controller set to normal 77 to 78 degree F.
The 10 pint jars will be ready to case in around 4 more days. They sit at bottom of tent waiting their turn soon.
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