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Sorry I didn't have time to read everything but why the particular mushroom strain? Would this not also work with cubes, subs or other more available mushrooms?

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Hi moonyham, this is with the pan cyan grass/dung lovers strain, long considered the crown jewel of mushrooms, slightly harder than cubensis to grow, and the trips are way more visual, very euphoric, very intricate fractal and geometric visuals like acid with saturated tropical colors. Several of my indoor containers contaminated as I did not use mycobags to grow out the substrate...I followed a tek where they were not used, now I know better next time to use them.

More on this variety with 50 trip reports: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1

Modern research has determined that the pan cyan strain of mushrooms with their HIGH BAEOCYSTIN and related analogues content hit the adrenal receptors with as much force as MESCALINE or DMT, see chart below. Notice how just plain psilocin alone hits the 3 adrenal receptors (responsible for enhanced colors, euphoria, beauty and music enhancement) with lighter activity.



Attached: Structure–Activity Relationships for Psilocybin, Baeocystin, Aeruginascin, and Related Analogues to Produce Pharmacological Effects in Mice, ACS Pharmacol. Transl. Sci. 2022, 5, 11, 1181–1196:

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsptsci.2c00177

by Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta, Stacie DeBoer, James A. Golen, Elliott B. Hulley, Christophe P. Stove, Andrew R. Chadeayne, David R. Manke, and Michael H. Baumann.

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Here is the Gordotek pan cyan video followed:

Other topics: Alchemy chemistry fun:

Compilation of pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copeandia cyanescens trip reports, crown jewel of mushrooms:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/page/1

You will absolutely love the 100mg THH + pan cyan combo! just like an organic LSD with added mescaline qualities from the THH, in a league of her own, no mental confusion but crystal clear clarity, so diamondlike shimmering beautiful, the euphoria, tropical colored visuals, music-enhancement and healing is divine.

How to extract 2.4g dmt from 170g bark using a 2 Liter erlenmeyer flask (heat and break resistant), post #15:
https://mycotopia.net/topic/111610-hpbcd-dmt-sublingually-active-under-tongue/

Tetrahydroharmine or THH and how to make her, Caapi visionary feminine teaching spirit:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28423951/page/1

Zero nausea HPBCD or aloe vera enhanced penetration Ayahuasca capsules:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28189371/page/1

Cactus tea before waterpark to beat the heat:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28411312/page/4



How to make LSI or Lysergic Acid Isovaleraldemide (Greek Eleusis ancient LSD) at home from morning glory seeds (the priests used non poisonous claviceps paspali which grows on paspalum grass adjacent to Eleusis present day in the famous Rarian plane, same alkaloid profile as the sacred Mesoamerican morning glory):
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27850299/page/2

Make your own 1-acetaldehyde LSD at home from LSD, very similar to ALD-52 or the real orange sunshine:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28441105

On my very first pan cyan mushroom trip, where I went to a house music club tripping with friends, I viewed laser light patterns on the floor of the club, where the women danced, I believe the mushrooms showed me how to form never before seen patterns, as went I went home, over the next several months, I built my own 6 channel audio generator that when these combined frequencies (3 on x channel and 3 on y channel) were sent to a laser x and y galvanometer, were able to produce brand new laser patterns such as collapsing circles and spinning lines 360 degrees which looked beyond belief in the fog as 3-d, I then went on to market these laser scanners to clubs on the strip, and they were a huge success...I owe this creative invention to the mushrooms which sparked new creative energies, way beyond thought, from a higher source where the mushrooms tap into. My love for house music stems back to those days of visiting many clubs as an entertainment laser lighting fixture creator and programmer and making friends with the many DJ's. Over the summer myself and friends were lifeguards at the local water park. But on the weekends we went to parties or house music clubs.

https://www.friskyradio.com/
https://jaytechmusic.podbean.com/
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Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms:

8-8-2023

Step 1: First wipe the black inoculation port on jar lid with alcohol pad and inoculate each of your 24 oz 5 grain jars with around 6cc from estero pan cyan spore syringe for instance.

I'm lazy so I already had bought super cheap pre-sterilized jars of rye berries with 4 other grains mixed in, came pre-sterilized at 15 psi for 120 minutes. When inoculate, spray 2 mm down the middle, then spin jar 1/4 turn as you inoculate around 1 cc each 1/4 turn towards the sides of jar so liquid drips down from top to bottom.

I did not even need to flame the syringe with mini butane torch as the spore syringes already come with a sterile syringe in sterile packing, you just screw on the sterile syringe and inject, no flaming of needle needed. I do all this in front of a laminar flow hood, although you don't need one.

In only 2 days, notice one of the jars in middle already showing mycelium growth. In around 5 days all of the jars SHOULD show signs of growth.


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8-21-23

Step 2, so after 14 days, only the one jar in the middle showed vigorous estero pan cyan mycelium growth...I even tried inoculating more spore water and even entire print spores into the non responding 5 other jars, but still no response after 2 weeks...As you can see growth may not be smooth, and with this grow log I want to show problems encountered...

...next time I start from scratch, I will use only spore water syringes or spore print spores directly to AGAR PLATE, cut agar wedge and then transfer wedge to grain jars...I will never start from spores dropped into jars or spore syringe water shot into each jar again (as it only worked for 1 of the 6 jars).

So what I did is at day 15, I did a grain to grain (g2g) transfer of all the fast growing estero mycelium from the 1 jar with major growth into each of the other 5 jars, and it took off like wildfire....I did this in front of a flow hood, I simply dipped a clean spoon into a small glass full of 91% isopropyl alcohol to sanitize, held spoon in front of flow hood to dry off, then opened the one jar with 40% growth, grabbed 2 tablespoons of mycelium covered grain, and added this to each of the other 5 jars...it worked!

Pic1: In just one day all of the other 5 jars have taken off very fast and even the main jar with growth now shows growth all over the jar after shaking it to break it all up before the g2g transfer. I shook each of the 5 jars after adding the 2 tablespoons, and it worked very well.

Pic2: Flow hood is nearly 14" wide so that even a $2 dollar cake pan (with clear lid added later) will fit in front of it (followed Gordotek) when transferring the grain spawn in step 3 coming up later to the substrate in cake pan, and mixing all together.

Super easy Gordotek that was followed: https://www.patreon.com/posts/new-simple-tek-44645256?l=es

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tregar said:
Note: If his (Gordotek) method works, I'll end up with a lifetimes worth of +5 level trips on just a single grow. We shall see.

As a long time chemist, my method of making tetrahydroharmine (see post #1 link) using zinc dust or granules is completely different from his method which uses magnesium which I would never follow. However, as far as I can tell, we are the only 2 people who have posted totally different methods on how to make pure THH.

I also do not smoke or vape dmt as he does in another video he has, as I prefer the oral only method of traditional Ayahuasca, combining it with at least 100mg of pure THH. I've used oral Ayahuasca capsules at least 90 plus times over many years. I march to the beat of my own drum. I don't make videos and don't like Patreon as you have to pay money to join, so there are indeed many things I do very differently.

If you like LSD like I do, combine panaeolus with at least 100mg of the pure betacarboline THH, it's quite incredible, like a long lasting natural version of LSD. I give experiences from others who have tried the same combination in the link in post #1.

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Good luck and may you end up with a life time supply of pans. Make sure you look into proper drying and storage so they don't lose potency throughout your life. I'm also trying to grow pans right now for the first time. Got pan Bisporus in grain jars that are almost done colonizing. Also have pan Cambodian that I just some spores on agar but starting to see growth. Hopefully will have some by Christmas time to give to people as gifts. Btw I've been storing my cubes in the freezer in jars with decessent packets in jar with the shrooms in a separate bag but in the same jar as the decessent packet. So far it seems to be working. But you may want to look into it if you haven't already. The shrooms I grew last year went to shit in double plastic zip lock bags...they took in moisture from the outside air and I had to toss them.

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The "Estero" strain was the best strain that I tested until finding TTBVI which is even better (just as aggressive and easy to grow but even more potent and it prints better). They are extremely vigorous, potent, and produce high yields.  There was some doubt at one point that the Estero strain was even pan cyan, some thought it might be pan cambo because it was almost too easy to grow.  However thin layer chromatography clearly shows it is not pan cambo, it has the alkaloid potency in the HIGH end of reported ranges for pan cyan. 

Comparison of Estero (Pan cyan) and Albino Penis Envy (Cubensis) mushrooms via Thin Layer Chromatography: https://www.patreon.com/posts/67621105

I will create a video explaining how to do this type of analysis, but for now I just wanted to show everyone a comparison between these species.  Albino Penis Envy (APE) is widely considered to be one of the most potent cubensis cultivars, it was heavily represented in the latest psilocybin cup (if you want to see my comments/critique of the cup, click the link and scroll down to the bottom where comments are shown, to see comments on a phone you may have to tap settings (in chrome for example)->desktop view).

So how does APE stack up against Estero (pan cyan)?

Each dot in the picture above represents a chemical compound (these are labeled on the left). They are in two vertical columns, so the left side from top to bottom is all Estero, right side is APE.  Starting with the two most important, look at the psilocybin and psilocin content - quantification is not precise, but you can estimate based on spot size and darkness.

The Estero cultivar is approximately three times as potent as APE (and it would have easily blown all other entries out of the water had it been submitted to the psilocybin cup).  This should be a reminder to all to dose appropriately (pan cyan holds the record for most potent mushroom species in the world as per published research).

If you normally take 3 grams of cubensis, try 1g of Estero.  It is always better to start with a lower dose and see how you respond before trying anything higher (you may want to start with just 0.5g).  There is NO PRIZE for taking the highest dose, in fact there is no documented benefit of any dose beyond about 35mg psilocybin equivalent, just more fear & anxiety for most people.

But there's more to it than just triple the psilocybin and psilocin, Estero also contains baeocystin (hard to see, but its there), urea (quite a bit), and serotonin.  None of these compounds can be seen at all in APE.  Could these be partly responsible for the difference in anecdotes from user experiences on Estero?

Here are some comments people have sent on this subject:
 
    "I strongly agree with starting with one-half gram dry.  It was a much better experience than any cubes I've tried even at higher doses."
 
    "Cubes gave me mild nausea and made me feel 'shakey'.  Not at all so with Pan cyans"
 
    "Penis Envy is and has been overrated. I think any other well sourced Cube is just the same. It’s that cultural conditioning at play."
 
    "lol who needs cubes when you can have Cyanescens!  I’ve blessed a few people with them and they are now believers lol."
 
    "When Estero kicked in, I wasn’t disappointed.  At one point I forgot I ate Cyanescens and thought I was on a DMT ride!  As often happens to me on DMT I was 'connected' to some kind of power cord or machine umbilical that was coming from my wall straight towards me and plugged into my third eye!  And I felt the presence of a cosmic nurse at my side. Like she had her hand in my shoulder reassuring me all was ok!  Then I was like “f*** I ate mushrooms this ain’t a DMT trip”
 
    "I've taken enough cubes to know Estero is different... 2 grams. Most amazing experience of my life. 10 hours. And another two hours of happiness watching TV and talking about my experience with my wife. In the end I just want to thank you. No comparison."
 
    "OMG, OMG, O. M. G. Had my first deeply religious experience on 2g [estero] yesterday. I have never felt anything like it in my life. It was truly incredible."
 
    "I ended up taking a 1 gram of Estero since I’m used to taking 3-4 grams of cubensis. Man…you were not kidding about the potency of these. 1 gram easily felt like 4-4.5 grams of cubensis to me.  These were by far the best visuals on mushrooms I’ve ever had.  Also, the euphoria was quite intense, and giggle sessions were uncontrollable.  All in all, I love pan cyans and they’ll likely be my go to. I’ll likely still grow cubensis for microdosing as well as less potency for sharing with others."
 
    "Experienced people do sometimes doubt ones sanity trying to explain just how deep Estero gets on what some call a "micro dose" the pan experience for me is the most rewarding substance I've ever ingested and half reduced my dose and frequency of use to fine tune the benefits, plus stopped using synthetic drugs completely and have been experiencing recovery i didn't really know I need but pretty sure i do."
 
    "I didn't really expect how good the differences were from Cube to estero. The visuals weren't comparable at all and the euphoria was so wonderful. My 2g trip was literally the best substance experience of my life next to marriage and kids. 10 hours of pure bliss." [Gordo note: 2g is too much for most people, be cautious]
 
    "Funny because I went to an Ayahuasca ceremony in May and the Shaman told me to start growing pans... he said, “Cubes are for the people. Pans are for the elevated.”
 
    "First experience last night with Estero pan cyan. Truly mystical, amazing, and the most beautiful and gentle psychedelic experience to date. Truly a gift."
 
    "There's something about Pan Cyan that induces something special that no cube could ever bring, it isn't that it's a clean feeling either - it's something that must deal with happiness in general - so whether it stimulates serotonin production or a mixture of neurochemicals for the best experience, I have had consistently positive experiences with each trip both physiologically and psychologically. I wonder if it has to do with other alkaloids or absence of alkaloids vs cubensis"

One of this years funniest/best psychedelic reveals was the guy who actually came up with Penis Envy (the best selling cubensis cultivar of all time), when interviewed by Hamilton Morris essentially said (my paraphrase) 'Eh, it's still just a cube, and cubes don't do it for me. I find the Cyanescens far superior (they have entities)!'

Haha. So the guy who created the most popular cubensis cultivar in the world doesn't even like cubensis.  Eventually I think most in the grower community will come to prefer other species.  I would still like to see some reputable published research comparing user experience by species (this is challenging to do but worth a try).  As an aside, if you listen to that Hamilton interview, the PE guy says a lot of "out there" things that deserve to be challenged, every so called claim of "supernatural powers" has always failed rigorous testing and he is no exception.

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Since the temp at night was 70 degree F, the heating mat did the trick, after 3 days each of the 6 cake pans had completed snow white mycelium coverings, kept each heating mat at around 76 to 78 degrees F. It has auto-shutoff once temp goes above 77 degree in room. These programmable heat mats even come in packs of 4 for dirt cheap combo.

The Estero variety panaeolus (native to Florida) seems to prefer a constant 77 degree F. Temps between 70 to 85 degrees F work well.

1. This is how each of the 6 cake pans looked before I took the cover off in front of flow hood. Notice the tiny indoor humidity and temperature monitor placed on edge on top of each heat mat to monitor the programmed temperature, to make sure it was working.


2. Even though I used 2 mycobags full of casing dry mix, turns out I only needed one bag's worth in order to cover each of the 6 cake pans with a 1/4" layer. The casing dry mix is a proprietary blend of peat moss, vermiculite, gypsum calcium phosphate that was bought dirt cheap. The exact recipe is given in Gordotek's writings: https://www.patreon.com/posts/44645256


3. A 23 qt presto pressure canner was used to sterilize the soil at 15 psi for 45 minutes. It's very easy to use a canner, all you need to know comes with the instructions with the canner.

1. When you get your canner, just screw on the dial pressure gauge that comes with it by hand, put tray into canner that sits around 1/2" above the bottom, add 3 quarts of hot water to the pressure canner, put your mycobags full of soil into canner (make sure you have a couple clothespins holding it flapped over shut), put lid on canner and rotate it to closed, heat up canner on "8" or so stove setting. Watch air steam vent out of the open vent pipe for 10 minutes. Then put the pressure regulator on the vent pipe, the pressure regulator may begin to rock before pressure builds. Watch as pressure builds in canner, once the dial indicates you have between 10 to 15 psi, turn down the heat to "6" or medium or so, and allow canner to PC cook for 45 minutes. The bags can withstand the temperature no problem. They will not melt. Do not remove the pressure regulator from the vent pipe until the pressure has gone back down to zero.



4. Cooker was removed from burner and allowed to cool overnight. Lid was removed from cooker. This is how the 2 casing bags looked the next day inside the cooker.


5. The lid was removed from each cake pan in front of the flow hood.


6. This is a closeup of one of the cake pans.


7. With clean hands (pre rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and hands allowed to dry quickly in front of flow hood, the mycobag was held over the cake pan, easily eye'd an amount of casing out over the cake pan so that a 1/4" layer was spread out in a smooth even layer. I lightly tapped the layer down and sprayed it heavily with distilled water after it was in place.


8. This is pic of all 6 cake pans after casing layer was placed. Optionally I put the top back on each cake pan (the inside of the lids were pre-wiped with 91% isopropyl alcohol and allowed to quickly dry).

The lids are being put on just for 24 hours, the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed the initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer. This may be helpful especially if your grow area is colder than 70F.

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Why 91% rubbing alcohol?

And I don't see why you're inoculating pasteurized substrate in front of a flow hood.

Are you somehow maintaining a sterile environment?  I.e. sterilizing the cake pans and substrate somehow?

Wouldn't using a grow bag for edibles be easier if you want it sterile?  Turn the bag on the side so it replaces the cake pain.  Cut it open and case when colonized?

I wish you luck with your grow but I think there's much easier ways to do things and that, last I knew, 70% Iso was better for mycology as the water helps the alcohol penetrate cell walls.  But maybe there's new information on that I'm not aware of

The sterile technique is interesting.  I have some polypropylene take out containers (lids are PP too) I will have to try this with.

Pretty sure 70% IPA is better though, regardless of Gordo's tek.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/14455047

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Transfer your substrate into the cake pans, only fill to 3/4 full.  Straw based substrate is more prone to contamination than a coir based substrate, if you have a flow hood do this step in front of it, or use a still air box, otherwise you can try doing this in open air which actually worked fine for me or optionally even try doing everything under a clear plastic drop cloth. Thoroughly clean and sanitize a table, put your cake pans, grain spawn, isoproply alcohol spray bottle, scissors, and substrate on the table.  Spray down everything with isopropyl alcohol.

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Note: An alternative to the above is to add your grain spawn directly to the mycobag after it is cooled and seal the mycobag, shake and let it colonize there for a week before transferring it to your cake pans - I tried this and it worked but cost an extra week of time as it will have to recolonize for another week after you transfer it to the cake pans.  I would only recommend this if you are having problems with contamination. To me it was a waste of time.

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Auto-Summary

The post outlines a method for humidifying a mushroom growing setup using 91% isopropyl alcohol to rinse hands, followed by a phased approach to growing. After 24 hours, lids are removed and a humidifier is programmed to run every half hour for half an hour. Materials needed include a spray water bottle, monsoon humidifier, humidity/temp monitors, and a mechanical timer. The humidifier is placed in a tub or pool of cake pans set at around 76°F, with humidity around 95%. The grower will monitor humidity and adjust as necessary, harvesting mushrooms after 5-7 days and drying them in a dehydrator. The species is noted to have a continuous fruiting mode, potentially producing a lifetime supply of mushrooms. Harvesting involves cutting or twisting the mushrooms, with the option to spray water on the surface if it appears dry.

Maybe there is some confusion, I only use the 91% isopropyl alcohol to rinse my hands and let dry quickly in front of flow hood before pouring casing over cake pans, patting down casing, etc.

Phase II:

There is little chance of contamination once the casing layer is on as Gordotek states. After 24 hours, I will remove the lids, and start the humidifier timer cycle.

1) Gather materials: Spray water bottle, monsoon humidifier with stretchable hose, a few humidity/temp monitors, mechanical timer.


2) Instructions for adding water to humidifier:


3) Program timer to turn humidifier on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour by first lifting every black button, then pressing down every other button.


4) All cake pans can be put into an empty kiddy swimming pool in a room to create a "sink/catch" for the fog or into a spare bathtub, we want to make a makeshift "tub/pool". First put down the programmable heat mats, set temp to around 76 degree F, place a humidity/temp monitor on each mat, then put cake trays on the mats, pre-spray the tub with lysol, clean well in advance.


Since my spouse will be using the mushrooms at threshold doses to treat her migraines (hopefully they will eliminate her migraines for weeks at a time, as she now gets them daily or every few days due to an ear infection back in June that finally went away months later but left here with this current head condition), she let me use a spare bath tub. 

Gordotek said

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If outside temps are 70F to 85F you can open a window. Some growers like to have additional fans running for more circulation but I found this to be unnecessary, the humidifier itself creates nice air currents that stream over the surface of the blocks and this is all you need. I did not use electric light, just natural indirect sunlight from the windows in the room, but if your room has no light, you can use 12 hour on, 12 hour off lighting. You could put the light on a time but since you will be adding water to a humidifier once a day, it's probably just as easy to turn the light on and add the water every morning when you wake up and turn the light off when you go to bed.

Set the humidifier at the top edge of your "pool/tub" elevated, so it throws mist out and forward into your tub. It should NOT be on the highest setting, a mid range setting may be fine, you want it to be throwing out some serious fog but not filling the entire room with fog. If you use a hygrometer near your tub, it's going to go up to about 95% RH (don't leave your hygrometer there too long or it will likely fail).  Plug the humidifier into a timer so that it goes on for 30 minutes then off for 30 minutes, around the clock (so it will be on for 12 hours a day total, every day).

At this point, you just need to monitor it a little bit for the first day to make sure you don't have the humidity setting too high or too low, Ideal humidity is 95%. You don't want pools of water forming, just a nice fog/mist overy your cake pans. If you get one of the high capacity humidifiers I recommend, you will only need to add water once a day. From that point on, it should be "set it and forget it". You should see pins form in 5 to 7 days. If substrate looks dry, you can mist with water. Pick the mushrooms as they mature, dry them in a food dehydrator and enjoy!

this species tend to go into almost "continuous fruiting mode" with wave after wave of mushrooms. You should get pretty thick carpets of mushrooms using this TEK, some flushes will be thicker than others.

With flush after flush, a single grow could produce a lifetime supply for some people.  A good strain can produce a crop that is strong enough to hold up a cell phone.

These can be harvested by cutting at the base with a sharp knife OR by gently twisting and pulling them out but there will usually be pins for the next crop all over the surface so try to avoid damaging those (I prefer using a long sharp knife). 

After a harvest pour 1 cup of water as evenly as possible over the entire surface of the pan. It’s going to look like an excessive amount of water, but it’s not.  At any given time, if it looked a little dry I would also spray the surface with a spray bottle of tap water (dollar store spray bottle is fine). The rumors that spraying water directly onto pins will kill them or cause them to abort have been debunked (by me). I have sprayed around, and even directly on pins just to see what would happen, and it didn't cause any problems, I have also directly sprayed the mushroom fruit bodies to see what would happen, it didn't make any difference. Remember how much this species loves rain.  That said, I would try to avoid directly watering the mature mushrooms, excessive humidity can cause the caps to turn dark, as can low grow room temperatures.

Dry in a dehydrator, homogenize by blending, and pack into 00 capsules using a capsule maker tool as shown in my bulk mushroom grow video.  Store in a sealed glass jar, at room temp, in a dark place preferable with oxygen absorbers. These are typically 3 times as potent as cubensis, so take 1/3 less. A single capsule (0.5g) is a good starter/test dose to get a feel for the species. A sensitive person might have 2 hours of closed eye visuals on such a dose. One gram (two capsules) is considered a normal dose similar to a 3 gram trip with cubensis and 1.5g (3-4 capsules) is a high dose.  2-3 grams could be very unpleasant for many people - you have been warned!  Use moderation, homogenize your dose, and only increment in small (half gram) steps after trying a lower dose first.

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normalperson said:
So........ still no shrooms to harvest?

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5. The lid was removed from each cake pan in front of the flow hood.


6. This is a closeup of one of the cake pans.

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Auto-Summary

The user discusses an outdoor grow of Panaeolus cyanescens, detailing the process of cleaning a contaminated tray and preparing the substrate with perlite, good substrate, and casing soil. After several days, the mycelium was observed tunneling to the top of the casing in a humidified bathtub. The user plans to move the trays into a Martha tent ecosphere to maintain a constant temperature of 77-80°F. The Martha tent features a reptile lamp, a monsoon humidifier, a 5" fan, and a drip tray. The user emphasizes the importance of evaporation in pin formation and shares a mistake made in the past regarding substrate colonization. The user also recommends specific techniques for preparing the substrate and casing it in a sterile environment.

Yes the_prodigy, you are correct, that was the tray I had to throw out.

For the tray I threw out due to contamination a week ago, I cut away all the good substrate from around the contamination and first put a layer of wet perlite into a garden container outside, then crumbled the good substrate on top the wet perlite, and added a 1/4" layer of left over sterile casing soil on top...this is all growing outside, I water it daily lightly with a watering can, and the temps and humidity are actually perfect outside except for night when it can dip. This I learned how to do for an outdoor grow from the 1st paragraph of this link: https://www.shroomery.org/8421/Panaeolus-cyanescens-FAQ





1st pic above several days after moving into humidified bathtub (1/2 hour on, 1/2 hour off) the mycelium can be seen tunneling it's way to the top of the casing.

2nd pic pinheads are forming all over the place, closeup of a few of them.

Soon, will be moving the trays into a Martha tent ecosphere that was given to me by a dear friend who is moving to another state into a smaller place, what a surprise, as this will come in real handy, this way the bathroom can be freed up, and the tent will be able to maintain a constant 77 degrees to 80 degrees, however I set it, due to it having a bulb on the bottom which is a regular old infrared, heat emitting bulb for reptiles. It screws into the power source, and sit's under a tray full of lava rocks. A programmable thermostat regulates the bulb for the perfect set temp.

Even currently with a heater in the bathroom set to go off to maintain 80 degrees F, I just can't get the temp to go over 73 degrees F most of the time near the trays, except for the afternoon when it's 76 degrees, at night the temp can fall low to 70 degrees (and the heater is turned off so no fire hazard) and the heating pads I'm getting rid of too.

The martha tent with the reptile lamp at bottom is definitely an innovative alternative to a ceramic/coil space heater which almost always gets too hot and throws a stream of heat, where as with this the lava rocks diffuse it. That is the main function of the lava rocks, kinda like perlite with it's wicking properties.

The monsoon humidifier I have will be put to good use to throw out humidity from the top downwards, still going on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour then shutting off for 1/2 hour and repeat like this all day...and there is a 5" fan at bottom to push air, and large holes covered with replaceable large peel and stick micron filter patches to allow air exchange in several places all over tent. A drip tray that sits under the martha collects any excess water running down the tent. A problem noticed with the bathtub is that water likes to collect in tiny pools here and there.

Evaporation is taking place every 1/2 hour when the humidifier is off for 1/2 hour, and this is important as Jakeoncid419 saids below, as it's just not the temp but the evaporation that makes the difference in how good your pin set will be.

Jakeoncid49: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26235096/fpart/1/vc/1

Mary Fairchild: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25248773

Jakeoncid419 said:

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I like high 70s low 80s you can take it up higher though but the warmer your take it the more likely you are to contaminate however they do move faster peeking out in the upper 90s where are you will start hurting your fruits I like 82 Fahrenheit.

Evaporation is what is going to induce pin formation evaporation takes place more at warmer temperatures I found they do best 80 to 82°F but it’s not just the temperature it’s the evaporation that makes the difference in how good your pin set will be.

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Sorry I didn't have time to read everything but why the particular mushroom strain? Would this not also work with cubes, subs or other more available mushrooms?

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Hi moonyham, this is with the pan cyan grass/dung lovers strain, long considered the crown jewel of mushrooms, slightly harder than cubensis to grow, and the trips are way more visual, very euphoric, very intricate fractal and geometric visuals like acid with saturated tropical colors. Several of my indoor containers contaminated as I did not use mycobags to grow out the substrate...I followed a tek where they were not used, now I know better next time to use them.

More on this variety with 50 trip reports: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1

Modern research has determined that the pan cyan strain of mushrooms with their HIGH BAEOCYSTIN and related analogues content hit the adrenal receptors with as much force as MESCALINE or DMT, see chart below. Notice how just plain psilocin alone hits the 3 adrenal receptors (responsible for enhanced colors, euphoria, beauty and music enhancement) with lighter activity.



Attached: Structure–Activity Relationships for Psilocybin, Baeocystin, Aeruginascin, and Related Analogues to Produce Pharmacological Effects in Mice, ACS Pharmacol. Transl. Sci. 2022, 5, 11, 1181–1196:

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsptsci.2c00177

by Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta, Stacie DeBoer, James A. Golen, Elliott B. Hulley, Christophe P. Stove, Andrew R. Chadeayne, David R. Manke, and Michael H. Baumann.
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Outdoor panaeolus cyanescens strain estero grow looks promising:

Of the 5 trays in the indoor grow bathtub, 2 of the containers did not contaminate, so 5 days ago, I took the two good containers outside, used a clean fork to scrape off the top layer of casing, and crumbled up the good substrate into two outdoor garden containers, I threw out what was in the outdoor container before, cleaned the inside of containers out well with a garden hose...

...and then added a 3" layer of wet perlite (for constant humidity) to the very bottom (as I did not have enough before) then crumbled in the good substrate with clean sanitized spoon, added a 1/4" layer of sterile casing to the top, and gave it a good watering with a watering can to soak the contents of the entire container, each day in morning I lightly water the container's top casing layer for around 1 second with a nearby watering can...if it ever gets super dry I'll give it a longer soak.

...to my surprise 5 days later there is pure white mycelium growing thru the casing layer! It's looks as if I was able salvage two of the containers as they are now growing well in the outdoor containers...the weather is perfect, between 73 and 85 during day, kept in shaded area, it rained yesterday with perfect 76 degree weather all day, and humidity varies between medium to high daily. 

So it appears as if all is not lost...



What's even more amazing is that when I remember crumbling the substrate into the outdoor containers, only about 50% of the substrate was even grown out before, so somehow, outdoors the rest of the substrate was able to fully colonize in just 5 days, otherwise it would not be currently growing out or "tunneling thru" the casing layer, as this does not normally happen unless the substrate is fully colonized below. 

I have lots of outdoor containers of the same color, it's very rewarding to be able to grow outside, and since I live in a state where these naturally grow outside, I will continue to grow like this, it's just plain fun.

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I'm not sure the reasoning why but I have had varied success following a similar method to Gordotek where I mix colonized grain spawn with pasteurized substrate.  Despite grain spawn jars looking and smelling clean, when things have contaminated, they've either contaminated after casing (trichoderma) or prior to casing (when I would go to case, I could smell bacteria which I assume is set to fail eventually If I smell that).  I don't know where the vector of contamination is.

Other times I've been perfectly fine it seems without using the myco bag method(instead I did what you did here and just spawned colonized grain to prepared substrate in front of flow hood) which makes me think its either my grain spawn or possibly substrate not being pasteurized properly when things contaminated but I dont know.

I built a pasteurizer using an 50 quart cooler and I try to get the center of my substrate to around 160 for 2 hours. I let them cool and sit for 2-3 days before I use it usually.

I'm experimenting further around the subject of trays going bacterial.  I'm wondering if It may be due to not enough air during colonization period once I mix spawn with substrate.  The reason I'm wondering this, is some of my trays that have had very little room left in them between the sub surface and the lid once filled, have mostly gone bacterial so I wonder if it's anaerobic in these particular situations.  I've put a few small holes on the lids with a layer of micropore or I've also used the "takeout" trays with no holes and tried to leave the lid loose but I don't think it allows air to flow. So I filled some trays less and tried not to pack the substrate down very much.

I see you have plenty of room between sub surface and your lid tops with air filters on them.

I will try colonizing in mycobags.  I've been really perplexed why some trays have contaminated despite the spawn smelling and looking normal, it is disappointing when it happens.

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So good to hear from you my dear friend Timestop413, your comments are much appreciated! I picked up a 50 pack of the good unicorn spawn bags with filter patch. I believe that one of the sources of my contamination was early on when I was mixing the grain with the bulk substrate, I remember NOT cleaning the grain jar with rubbing alchohol on outside, and I had touched the outer surface of the jar many times at the same time I mixed the grain with the substrate, introducing a whole load of contaminants into the bulk substrate, a big no no. Like you I look forward to colonizing in mycobags this time, thanks for sharing your grow story, so cool to see you giving this a shot as well.



Started over, doing this the right way, 2nd time is a charm.

1. Under flow hood, for 1/2 half the agar plates, shot 1 cc of estero pan cyan into each plate, visible spores all thru plate, sealed with parafilm. For the other 5 plates, scraped spores from estero spore print into dish using a disposable, sterile scalpels (10 for cheap), all done in front of flow hood.

2. The mushroom ecosphere greenhouse took only 2 hours to assemble, complete dream come true, set the temp you want for inside the greenhouse, and the martha tent does the rest, notice heat source at bottom with lava rocks to diffuse the heat, and fan next to it to act as a convection oven, fresh warm air being sent upwards, fresh air flow is key. Notice polyfil filter discs attached 4" above each shelf, centered on tent, 4 on each side, and 1 on front, 1 on back of tent.

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I think if you're growing in sterile myco bags this time and inoculate under a flowhood you'll have a lot more success.

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It sounds like you need to familiarize yourself with basic cultivation techniques, and stop relying on unreliable sources like Gordo. I said this from the beginning, it has unfortunately ended as I suspected it would.

Check out some of our own subject materials:

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22216410

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25925194/vc/1


https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26565367

That should help.

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Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

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This recipe makes about 7 quarts of substrate and is enough to fill two trays. I like 3 quart Pyrex trays. I will fill each tray almost to the top, leaving a little room for casing and I don't care having a little sub left over.

Horse manure 675g
Milo (rye or millet) 250g - not prepped in any way
Vermiculite 100g
Straw 75g
Water 1600g

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I'm trying something similar with Bisporus.

Dropped wedges off agar straight into small mycobags day before last.  It's been really slow on millet and I haven't had much luck with LCs so far.

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tregar said:. I I'm no longer following the Gordotek method, learned the hard way on 1st grow it's not for me, too unsterile.

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Op. Didn't read everything yet but I'm also trying to grow pans and have been having problems similar to you I think except I don't have a flow hood. Are you saying that pans are more difficult to grow on pasteurized substrate? I was thinking that my problems must be due to not having cleaned the original culture enough because I grew cubes alongside and those grew fine. I believe I've also seen numerous examples of pans grown on pasteurized substrate on this site. Either way I might try a sterilized substrate and maybe slurry inoculate them once I have some good cultures.

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Tregar thank you for T/A on page 1.

Prodigy, your sig always makes me grow a big rubbery one.

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3- inoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
I like to shoot these containers with 6 cc of mycelium water. This way
the containers are completely colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit.

For mycelium water, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto an agar plate, mix up
the mycelium and water using the needle tip, and draw back into the syringe.
No need to dig into the agar layer, just wipe the myc. off the surface of the agar.
(Note, when starting with spores, try adding more BRF to the recipe.)

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When each grain jar had lid opened, and an agar wedge inserted in front of flow hood, the growth took off in just a couple of days. In 15 days all 5 jars were completely grown out with mycelium, I shook the jars every 5 days and this really speeded things up.

I already had several 3 lb bags of pre-pasteurized mix of horse manure, vermic, water, coir, wheat straw which I cut open and emptied each 3lb bag into 1 mycobag in front of flow hood.

I then sterilized both 3 lb bags in the pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. I added 3 quarts of water to canner.

I let cool overnight, then put mycobag in front of flow hood, removed the clothespins from bag, opened up bag in front of flow hood, and poured one whole jar of mycelium grown out grain into each of 2 bags. This was sealed immediately after with a 25.00 impulse sealer inside the flow hood, worked like a charm.

Kept at a constant 77 degree F with the myco tent with lava rock heater, to my disbelief, the bag already showed signs of pure white growth all over the place in the bag 1 day later, and 3 days later I could not believe how great they looked, over-run with mycelium, at this rate 7 more days and they will be ready to be crumbled up and put into 4.5 quart pyrex trays for 1 week to recover, I'll place foil over the pyrex and poke a few holes for gas exchange. Then each pyrex tray will be ready for the casing and fruiting.

Reishiman, to answer your kind question, detail for above post:

Found for less than price of a discounted movie ticket: 3lb bags of pre-pasteurized manure base casing mix, these can be found all over the net from all different places in various sizes. These bags come pre-pasteurized for two plus hours. They have horse manure, coir, shredded wheat straw, minerals, hydrated lime, ph buffers like gypsum, and correct amount of spring water to bring to field capacity.

Had simply cut open the bag and poured it into one 8 x 5 x 19 large unicorn 3T 0.2 micron filter bag, then sterilized it for 1 hour at 15 psi, this way to sterilize not only the unicorn bag but it's contents, asura and blue helix and waylitjim all sterlized their substrates, I'm not taking any chances.

These are two better photos on day 4 after pouring 1 grain spawn jar into each substrate bag, the original fan broke that was with tent, so the normal all day temp dropped from 77 to 74, replacing with a better pc fan on the way here soon. The fan acts like a convection oven, blowing warm air from the lava rock heater below upwards to all the martha tent. With a good fan, the tent maintains a constant 77 degree F all over tent when set with electronic thermostat.

The reason you still see clothespins on the bag is because after I impulse sealed the bags in front of flow hood using a twenty five dollar impulse sealer with 4,000 good reviews, I put the clips back on just to keep the top of bag upright (front falling over) as it lays against the side of martha tent.

Asura mentioned here https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049 to allow 10 days for the bags to grow out completely, and to break up the bag and gently mix things up again on day 5 which will be tomorrow for me to do.



Asura:

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Colonization

I let the bags colonize for ~10 days (at about 72°F) in a dark closet. I don't know if it's the lack of light, the still air in the closet or a combination of both, but my bags grow out better this way. Prior to doing this, I used to just keep the bags on a rack in the kitchen. I would see a lot of metabolite expression. Since moving to the closet, my growth is stronger and the bags are mostly metabolite free.

12 hours or so after inoculation, I gently mix up the substrate for the first time. At day 5, I will also break up the bag and gently mix things up again. By day 10, the bags should be ready to be laid to trays. If it is not,I will toss it.

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Fruiting (Part 1)

Successful fruiting of pan cyans requires the understanding of these factors: humidity, evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE).

Temperature

Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

FAE
This is the easy part. FAE is always on. Sometimes that air is mixed with fog and sometimes it's just air. But there is always some amount of air going into the FC.

Some growers handle FAE using a repeat cycle timer that simultaneously pulls in fresh air while exhausting the old air. I prefer the always on model. It's just one less thing to think about.

Humidity & Evaporation

Pan cyans thrive a high humidity environment. However, evaporation is a major pinning trigger (by all observations). And evaporation cannot occur efficiently if your FC is always near 100% relative humidity (RH).

With this in mind, it's best to think of fruiting in two stages: pre-pin and post-pin.

During pre-pin, it's best to cycle humidity. I will set my humidity controller to a range around 90-98%. This means the fog will kick on at 90% and will shut off when it hits 98%. While on, moisture is being added and humidity will increase.

While off, humidity drops and evaporation will increase. This on/off cycle takes some amount of time, which is why some cultivators use a repeat cycle timer in lieu of a controller. Both can work well.

I don't want the environment to be too wet or too dry, so I do regularly adjust the range on my controller based on what I am seeing. Having an empty tray in the FC can really help with this dialing in. If my tray is bone dry when the cycle hits 90%, I know I can increase the range to something like 92-98%. If my tray is too wet at the high end, I might adjust the range to something like 90-97% or 90-96%. I will make whatever adjustments necessary based on what I am seeing with the empty tray.

In my current grow, for instance, I have the range set to 92-97%. These adjustments were made over the
course of the first three days of fruiting.

Post-pin is easier to manage. Once, pinning has occurred the substrate will continue to put out flush after flush. I don't worry about the humidity cycling once the initial pinning has occurred. After the pins start coming in I usually set my controller to a tight range like 94-95% to keep the environment mostly humid. Even with the humidity on, some evaporation will still occur.

RogerRabbit said:
You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself.
Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.

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After 24 hours removed the foil cover from trays which had several toothpick sized air holes in it...filled humidifier with water, set humidity on humidity controller to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, and TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity. Set variable PC fan blowing warm air up from the dual 150 watt ceramic lamp reptile lava rock heater to 2.5, low speed very quiet with still plenty of fresh air all thru the tent.

pic 1: trays look like this after removing the foil, substrate 100% colonized by the mycelium
pic 2: monsoon humidifier blows a rolling humidity over the trays (and jars when cased in a few days)
pic 3: humidity controller set to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity
pic 4: variable pc fan set to around 2.5 speed (low)
pic 5: monsoon humidifier set to around 3 setting (low)
pic 6: day 7 after adding grown out mycelium grain (1 to 1.25") to each of 10 jars with substrate and shaking, will case all jars in around 3 more days.

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Any fruits yet?

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Biggest issue I had with pans was the temperature difference between cubes. I was trying to colonize cubes and pans in the same space. Cube myc was taking off and the pans were not. Once I figured that out it was all good. It also colonized much slower than I was used to with cubes. I’m no expert and could be completely wrong here but raising the temps made them respond and gave me the desired results. As far as fruiting everything was in the same Martha and it all worked out well. Glad you posted this thread! I got some good info and insight from the community. I thank you for that and everyone for their thoughts.

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Thanks mwj12977, the temp is at a constant 77 to 79 degrees in the tent even with the fan at the bottom of the tent on super low (2.5 lowest level) even though it's 40 degrees outside.

Yes, I'm super excited now, thanks for watching and tips elasticaltiger and mwj12977.

Got rid of the 24 hour rainforest conditions that got me no where for 1.5 week, did the following 2 days ago:

1. Cracking the window made all the difference for FAE, I lowered the crack in the window from 1" down to just 1/4" crack, and it allows in plenty of fresh air yet no noise from outside, and the crack is hidden well behind the blinds, yet loads of fresh air can now enter the room! I can even feel the wind coming in from the crack.

2. lowered the fresh air gap at the bottom of the tent from 2" down to just 1/2" opening, this allows around 3 plus or so fresh air exchanges per hour, which is great for pans, the 2" opening was overkill.

3. Installed one of those super bright LED strings from a reel and put it on a 12 hour time ON from 7am till 8pm.

I came home today after just 2 days of the above changes, and see pins all over the place, even on the sides of the pyrex, they all point upwards towards the light. I so happy to see pins as I've never seen a mushroom pin in all my life.

Super excited as I was loosing faith, this has been a long months long project with lots of learning curves.

Pic 1: Tent is rolled up 1/2" at bottom to allow FAE in, and CO2 to exit.
Pic 2: A reel of LED lights was suspended above the trays, super bright, no more having to open any curtains, as the light coming into room was just not enough anyways.
Pic 3:  A window near the martha tent is cracked 1/4" at all times to allow FAE into the room

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Tregar, you went into this with so much confidence. What was your experience with growing mushrooms before? I wish you had reached out to the community for help with the issues you were encountering.

How did you select your cultures for the grow? Is there anything salvageable? It sounds like you just needed help dialing in the martha. The TCs tend to really try and dissuade new growers from automated setups for the reasons you've mentioned. They can be notoriously difficult to dial in.

I hope the tubs work out for you.

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I MIGHT Have MISSED  it but what were the  proportions of the Manure mix (manure.../vermiculite,,,/straw..../coi..r/water) ?

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I then place them directly into the SGFC after casing.  I have seen people wait 48 hours for recovery but I find it not needed.

Here is the MacMerdin twist:  I bury the jars/Ziploc bowls up to the top in the perlite.  I figured that since a SGFC works from fresh air coming up through the bottom, I would use this fresh air as my FAE source.

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I use a water dropper (child medicine dropper) to drip water on the casing layer to keep it moist.  Just drop water until it starts to pool a little and then don't moisten until you see that it has dried a bit more.  Usually 1 or 2 times a day is sufficient.

I re-soak the perlite every week. The perlite becomes almost like quicksand.  So watch that you don't lose them.

As for maintenance of the casing layer and misting/fanning:

Maintenance:

Since hearing advice from RR, I now mist the casing layer directly to keep it moist.  Apply the casing layer at field capacity.  After the casing has dried a bit, mist the casing until it starts to glisten a little and then don't moisten until you see that it has dried a bit more.  Usually 1 time a day is sufficient.

Misting and Fanning:

I mist around the SGFC so that the mist gets blown around the chamber.  Then I fan and mist the same way again.

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MacMerdin's pan cyan fruiting in SGFC (1/4" holes every 2 inches on all 6 sides with bottom layer of pre-soaked and drained thru strainer perlite):