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Offlinetregar
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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28602099 - 12/29/23 10:54 AM (29 days, 8 hours ago)

Asura said: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049
Quote:


Fruiting (Part 1)

Successful fruiting of pan cyans requires the understanding of these factors: humidity, evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE).

Temperature

Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

FAE
This is the easy part. FAE is always on. Sometimes that air is mixed with fog and sometimes it's just air. But there is always some amount of air going into the FC.

Some growers handle FAE using a repeat cycle timer that simultaneously pulls in fresh air while exhausting the old air. I prefer the always on model. It's just one less thing to think about.

Humidity & Evaporation

Pan cyans thrive a high humidity environment. However, evaporation is a major pinning trigger (by all observations). And evaporation cannot occur efficiently if your FC is always near 100% relative humidity (RH).

With this in mind, it's best to think of fruiting in two stages: pre-pin and post-pin.

During pre-pin, it's best to cycle humidity. I will set my humidity controller to a range around 90-98%. This means the fog will kick on at 90% and will shut off when it hits 98%. While on, moisture is being added and humidity will increase.

While off, humidity drops and evaporation will increase. This on/off cycle takes some amount of time, which is why some cultivators use a repeat cycle timer in lieu of a controller. Both can work well.

I don't want the environment to be too wet or too dry, so I do regularly adjust the range on my controller based on what I am seeing. Having an empty tray in the FC can really help with this dialing in. If my tray is bone dry when the cycle hits 90%, I know I can increase the range to something like 92-98%. If my tray is too wet at the high end, I might adjust the range to something like 90-97% or 90-96%. I will make whatever adjustments necessary based on what I am seeing with the empty tray.

In my current grow, for instance, I have the range set to 92-97%. These adjustments were made over the
course of the first three days of fruiting.

Post-pin is easier to manage. Once, pinning has occurred the substrate will continue to put out flush after flush. I don't worry about the humidity cycling once the initial pinning has occurred. After the pins start coming in I usually set my controller to a tight range like 94-95% to keep the environment mostly humid. Even with the humidity on, some evaporation will still occur.

RogerRabbit said:
You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself.
Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.



After 24 hours removed the foil cover from trays which had several toothpick sized air holes in it...filled humidifier with water, set humidity on humidity controller to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, and TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity. Set variable PC fan blowing warm air up from the dual 150 watt ceramic lamp reptile lava rock heater to 2.5, low speed very quiet with still plenty of fresh air all thru the tent.

pic 1: trays look like this after removing the foil, substrate 100% colonized by the mycelium
pic 2: monsoon humidifier blows a rolling humidity over the trays (and jars when cased in a few days)
pic 3: humidity controller set to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity
pic 4: variable pc fan set to around 2.5 speed (low)
pic 5: monsoon humidifier set to around 3 setting (low)
pic 6: day 7 after adding grown out mycelium grain (1 to 1.25") to each of 10 jars with substrate and shaking, will case all jars in around 3 more days.



Edited by tregar (12/29/23 10:59 AM)


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Offlinetregar
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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28604230 - 12/31/23 07:03 AM (27 days, 12 hours ago)

Ran across a problem with the Chinese made humidity controller I was originally using, it had no calibration feature, so even though the sensor was several points off, I was not able to calibrate to the actual real humidity in the tent, as I have 3 different humidity meters, all very accurate, while the Chinese made monitor was way off...

...so found a much better INKBIRD humidity monitor controller with built in up and down CALIBRATION buttons, so was able to calibrate the new humidity controller to the actual real humidity based on the other meters in the tent, I was able to set the target high humidity to 97 and the "turn on differential" to 90 degrees humidity, so it was able to turn on humidity when it fell below 90 and turn it off when it reached 97. This new one worked incredibly well compared to the Chinese model.

....also place a large rim plastic cup way underneath the monsoon humidity hose on one of the racks, as every so often built up drips of water at the end of the monsoon hose would fall into the cup placed below the output tube, so the water would not just get dumped into the bottom of the tent as it fell...this keeps it much cleaner inside, so no drips of water would fall into bottom of tent or any of the mushroom trays.

pic 1: this inkbird humidity monitor controller works very well all day and night to keep humidity at a set TURN ON AT 90, TURN OFF AT 97, easy to calibrate too.

pic 2...it's also important to keep the monsoon humidifier with it's long expandable hose higher than the actual spot where the hose enters the tent, this way the built up water in the hose will exit the hose into cup far below in the tent as it drips out, otherwise the water can get built up in hose and will cause humidity to stop output. I used 2 x 5 gallon buckets on top a wooden stool to raise the monsoon humidifier high enough.

pic 3: the variable pc fan had to be turned back up to normal "8" mid-high setting in order to keep blowing the warm air up and thru all the tent, this made it easy to keep temp anywhere I set it, normally at 77 to 78 degrees F, the fan speed cannot be turned on low, or the temp will not go above 75 degrees when it is freezing outside and below 65 in house. The mid high "8" setting works very well, no matter how cold it is, it's able to keep a constant 77 to 79 degrees F in all the racks of the tent.



Edited by tregar (12/31/23 07:33 AM)


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28607427 - 01/02/24 05:03 PM (25 days, 2 hours ago)

Additional comments collected from the archives:

Pan cyan vs P. cubensis

"They [Pan cyans] are so much cleaner! The trip is shorter but more intense. The visuals are just incredible. You feel very light compared to cubensis and the headspace is more manageable (at least at lower doses).

"Most intense, euphoric, neon colorful trip that introduced me to pan cyan, most unlike any cubes I have ever had. Way preferred these over cubes. So deeply euphoric and extremely visual with saturated tropical neon colors. From then on I was hooked."

"I didn't really expect how good the differences were from Cube to [Pan cyan] estero. The visuals weren't comparable at all and the euphoria was so wonderful. My 2g trip was literally the best substance experience of my life next to marriage and kids. 10 hours of pure bliss."

"I strongly agree with starting with one-half gram dry. It was a much better experience than any cubes I've tried even at higher doses."

"Cubes gave me mild nausea and made me feel 'shakey'. Not at all so with Pan cyans."

"Less cartoony than cubes. More crisp neon geometric patterns. The trip also feels less tiring."

"Copelandia [Panaeolus] cyanescens are far stronger than cubes and have a distinctly different feel."

"I've eaten pan cyans around the 1g dose - to me it was like 3g of cubies in strength with a different quality to it."

"IMO they [Pan cyans] are a lot better than cubes. No body noise and very intense and clear. More like LSD just a lot shorter. I don't cultivate many actives on a regular basis anymore, but out off all I have experienced to date, these are my favorite."

"Pan Cyan (and Trops) are very much worth the effort!!! I have never eaten any Cubes that were as VISUAL as these are. Not to mention a little goes a LONG ways. Gram and a half of these little fellers will blister your brain!"

"In my humble opinion, I think 1 gram of wet Panaeolus is even better than 1 gram of dry Cubensis, making them 10X more potent [?!?], in addition to the more positive and smooth experience, easier consumption due to amount and taste, and much less nausea."

"My first experience [with Pan cyans] was wonderful! I definitely noticed a big difference in potency and the mood of the trip. I still remember how clean, visual and surreal everything felt. I felt absolutely no body noise or anxiety. They felt very natural to experience, nothing felt wrong if that makes sense."

"Ok, so it's given that [Pan cyan] it's much stronger than cubensis. But I've noticed that there is a difference in the high. Why is that?"

"There's something about Pan Cyan that induces something special that no cube could ever bring, it isn't that it's a clean feeling either - it's something that must deal with happiness in general - so whether it stimulates serotonin production or a mixture of neurochemicals for the best experience, I have had consistently positive experiences with each trip both physiologically and psychologically. I wonder if it has to do with other alkaloids or absence of alkaloids vs cubensis."

"It is my personal view that Hawaiian Copelandia [Panaeolus] cyanescens offers the entheogen user a more enjoyable experience than the more easily cultivated Psilocybe cubensis. In fact I would place it in the premier cru of psychedelic plants, alongside the indigenous Liberty Cap (Psilocybe semilanceata) and the various DMT containing plants."

General comments

"They are the cleanest, smoothest, most peaceful mushroom vibe of all the species I have tried. Panaeolus cyanescens and tropicalis rank #1 in my book."

"They are far and above the cleanest clearest and most potent mushrooms I have ever encountered, tread lightly with these guys."

"SWIM has only consumed the Copelandia cyans (Hawaiian), and reputes them to be the best mushroom experience by far. Very clean trip, zero body load, clear head space."

"The highs real clean. It reminds me of the Felix the cat acid from the 80s. Just smooth. With little body noise and extreme visuals. A calm lucidity that is like a slice of heaven."

"First experience last night with Estero pan cyan. Truly mystical, amazing, and the most beautiful and gentle psychedelic experience to date. Truly a gift."

"I also noticed that cyans have a very smooth comedown and longer duration. What could be the reason for this?"

"Pans are no joke. Anyone who says LSD is more powerful than mushrooms has never done pans."


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28613742 - 01/08/24 07:16 AM (19 days, 12 hours ago)

Don't make the same mistake I did, so after 1.5 weeks, not a single pin, and the humidity controller became a major pain in the ass, as it's calibration would fluctuate and it drove me a little bit mad having to watch and tend to it often...

...so I wen't back to what Gordotek recommended, and just put the monsoon humidifier on a timer, 1/2 hour on, then 1/2 hour off, all day and night long...

...also rolled up around 2" of the tent from the bottom and secured it with clothespins, put the ceiling fan on LOW in the room, and cracked a window around the width of a clothespin, this made a major difference, also cracked the door to the grow room around 2" all the time, and now the inside of the martha tent is no longer like a 24 hour rainforest.:lol:

...The FAE or fresh air exchange is perfect now...for 1/2 hour the humidity climbs from 80 to a perfect 97 degrees fairly quickly when ON, maintains the 97, inches up to 98 during the last 5 minutes of the 30 min ON cycle, then drops down to an ending 80 during the last 5 min of the 30 min OFF cycle very slowly when OFF, now I'm finally seeing evaporation from the surface of the casing during OFF and good moisture of the casing when ON.

As I've read in a dozen other martha tent topics on this forum, all the variables of a tent can be tricky, and why so many only use monotubs, but these are pans and would require a slightly different monotub design from your normal cubensis (babayaga covers this, see post #1 link)..but this at least solved the problem for me. Hope to see pins within days or a week now.

The temp is still at a perfect 77 degrees all day and night, as the 77 temp still maintains easily even with the cracked window (40 degrees outside and 65 inside at night) and even with the rolled up portion of tent, this is due to the double lamp reptile heater.

An empty saucer next to the grow during the humidity cycling shows hardly any condensation when the timer is OFF and then it shows some moisture but not wetness like you want when ON.

For the first time I've seen tiny pools of water (that were forming during the day) at the bottom of the tent floor on the stand finally evaporate, now it's dry, I was lacking any kind of FAE or evaporation before, and evaporation is a pinning trigger.

New optimal Settings:
(1) variable speed pc fan at bottom of tent set to 2.5 (lowest setting, reduced from previous too high of 7)
(2) monsoon humidifier set to "2"
(3) ceiling fan in room set to "low"

In other words, just about everything set to "2" from the 2 inches of tent brought up, to the 2 on humidifier and 2 on pc fan.

Pic 1: rolled up the bottom of tent a tiny bit to allow FAE
Pic 2: cracked a nearby window slightly all the time
Pic 3: timer, push in every other button so that you get 1/2 hour ON and 1/2 hour OFF of the humidifier just like the gordotek grow.


Edited by tregar (01/08/24 10:23 AM)


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28616743 - 01/10/24 06:40 PM (17 days, 36 minutes ago)

the elasticaltiger said:
Quote:

Any fruits yet?


Yes! finally today I came home and there are pins finally all over the trays!

mwj12977 said:
Quote:

Biggest issue I had with pans was the temperature difference between cubes. I was trying to colonize cubes and pans in the same space. Cube myc was taking off and the pans were not. Once I figured that out it was all good. It also colonized much slower than I was used to with cubes. I’m no expert and could be completely wrong here but raising the temps made them respond and gave me the desired results. As far as fruiting everything was in the same Martha and it all worked out well. Glad you posted this thread! I got some good info and insight from the community. I thank you for that and everyone for their thoughts.


Thanks mwj12977, the temp is at a constant 77 to 79 degrees in the tent even with the fan at the bottom of the tent on super low (2.5 lowest level) even though it's 40 degrees outside.

Yes, I'm super excited now, thanks for watching and tips elasticaltiger and mwj12977.

Got rid of the 24 hour rainforest conditions that got me no where for 1.5 week, did the following 2 days ago:

1. Cracking the window made all the difference for FAE, I lowered the crack in the window from 1" down to just 1/4" crack, and it allows in plenty of fresh air yet no noise from outside, and the crack is hidden well behind the blinds, yet loads of fresh air can now enter the room! I can even feel the wind coming in from the crack.

2. lowered the fresh air gap at the bottom of the tent from 2" down to just 1/2" opening, this allows around 3 plus or so fresh air exchanges per hour, which is great for pans, the 2" opening was overkill.

3. Installed one of those super bright LED strings from a reel and put it on a 12 hour time ON from 7am till 8pm.

I came home today after just 2 days of the above changes, and see pins all over the place, even on the sides of the pyrex, they all point upwards towards the light. I so happy to see pins as I've never seen a mushroom pin in all my life.

Super excited as I was loosing faith, this has been a long months long project with lots of learning curves.

Pic 1: Tent is rolled up 1/2" at bottom to allow FAE in, and CO2 to exit.
Pic 2: A reel of LED lights was suspended above the trays, super bright, no more having to open any curtains, as the light coming into room was just not enough anyways.
Pic 3:  A window near the martha tent is cracked 1/4" at all times to allow FAE into the room



For those who experience anxiety on shrooms...If you take shrooms along with 70mg of pure thh or tetrahydroharmine, not only does it eliminate anxiety, add crystal clear clarity, increased euphoria, but the shroom trip is extended by hours, done it countless times myself, absolutely incredible gorgeous experience. Thh is a psychedelic sri not maoi found in cappi. Damn near perfect psychedelic combo....other than that mescaline is all ready the perfect psychedelic, drank cactus tea over 150 times over many years. I love that it lasts incredibly long allready.


Edited by tregar (01/13/24 01:44 AM)


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28628508 - 01/20/24 12:18 PM (7 days, 6 hours ago)

The tent for me at least has been a complete disaster, too many variable to contend with, nothing but aborts and no fruiting what so ever, side pins, even with a timer on a humidifier that goes up to 97% for 1/2 hour ON then down to 82% for 1/2 hour OFF has still not worked, and these are supposed to be optimum conditions for pan cyan. Variables that drive me crazy: how fast should fan run at bottom for FAE ?, how much of an opening on tent bottom ?, too moist ? too dry ? who knows..

I've switched to simplicity below, the tent can always be used to hold and grow grain jars, agar petri dishes, etc. at optimum temps.

Uses simply a sterile 54 quart (22.5 x 16 x 12.75") or a sterile 32 quart (18.5 x 14 7/8 x 11 1/8") tub

Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket

--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22337800/fpart/1/vc/1

Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."

--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27637997/vc/1

Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down."

Just grow pan cyans in unmodified sterlite 54 or 32 quart tubs, the lid does on upside down.


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28630769 - 01/22/24 08:29 AM (5 days, 10 hours ago)

Elasticaltiger said:
Quote:

Tregar, you went into this with so much confidence. What was your experience with growing mushrooms before? I wish you had reached out to the community for help with the issues you were encountering.

How did you select your cultures for the grow? Is there anything salvageable? It sounds like you just needed help dialing in the martha. The TCs tend to really try and dissuade new growers from automated setups for the reasons you've mentioned. They can be notoriously difficult to dial in.

I hope the tubs work out for you.



Elasticaltiger...I've always been a good chemist, but really suck at growing all things, it's always been like that, give me something to extract, no problem, but I can't grow a darn thing.

I need help. I turned off the fan at the bottom of the martha tent, and turned on the ceiling fan to MEDIUM setting in the room, and changed tent bottom opening from 1.5" to 2.5".

This might be helping? the humidity goes up to 97 quickly while on 1/2 humidifier ON then down to 90 when OFF, perhaps it was drying out too quickly before, as humidity was dropping to 75 or 80 before. Now at least, it stays at 90 while off even when cold outside, this is more like the humidity parameters Asura used.

I will see how this works.

The window is still cracked 1/4" to allow fresh air into room also (depending on temp outside).

I don't know if the unmodified tubs will work during the winter as it get's down to 60 degrees in room at night, at least the tent stays warm.

Fresh air easily enters the tent from the bottom part that is rolled up due to ceiling fan running on MED, it's more of a slower air exchange which is what I think I needed, as things were drying up too quickly before.

I'll open up another colonized mycobag, put into tent and case 1/2 of it with just a few mm casing, other 1/2 of it uncased to see how it goes.

The fully colonized jars received only a few mm of casing and have also not reponding with pins or fruits at all, I'm hoping this modification with FAE helps.

It really sucks that I had clean grains, spawn and 100% still clean and colonized substrate in not only dishes (which I have since moved into aluminum cake pans) but jars as well. I did the hard part fine, people say fruiting is supposed to be easy, but just the opposite for me, may give up for good, to see no results. Work long weeks, work out twice a week as life long bodybuilder, little free time, just loosing faith in all this down the drain work. I've drank cactus tea over 150 times over many years, if this doesn't work, gonna stick with my cactus, just thought it might be possible to have an alternative as my rare cactus only provides so many limited opportunities for tripping, which have all exceeded my expectations anyways. The zero nausea Ayahausca capsules always work great, so either way I can just go back to what I'm used to....just took on more that I can handle.


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Re: Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens or pan cyan experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD [Re: tregar]
    #28635846 - 01/26/24 04:31 PM (1 day, 2 hours ago)

This is my thread on 50 pan cyan trip reports and combo with 70mg THH or pure tetrahydroharmine:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1

Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket

--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22337800/fpart/1/vc/1

Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."

--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27637997/vc/1

Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down."
------------------------------------------------------------
Great news!

I ditched the martha tent (only use it to grow out grains, jars, or mycobags, love both). As I had to throw out the cake pan from the attempted fruit in martha tent due to it just not fruiting, lack of pins. Too many variables to adjust and trial and error for a martha at least for this beginner.

And put the estero pan cyan substrate cakes which I birthed and 2 new estero pan cyan completely colonized substrate from the mycobags into 2 cake pans, this is what they look like only 3 days later, almost reconsolidated back together as pure white snow all over the top.

And bought 2 of the 54 quart sterilite clear gasket tubs, put the birthed cakes into it, along with the 2 cake pans.

I put programmable seedling heat mats under the tub but separated by can lids, so not touching, set thermostat to keep it at 80 degrees below, and the tubs stay at 76 degrees even when it's 55 degrees outside and around 70 degrees F inside the house at night. The air outside is humid due to lots of rain outside recently.

Punched holes in a piece of box cardboard to run the LED string light that comes on a reel, and plugged it into the timer that turns it on from 7am till 7pm.

The lid is of course put on upside down as per Bod's tek in first link below, ceiling fan off but I do keep the window cracked 1/4" behind the blinds which lets in a bit of fresh air from outside.

I misted only once the 1st day, and already see baby mushrooms all over the 7 jar cakes, the 2 cake pans should finish substrate reconsolidation after being moved from 100% colonized mycobag to the cake pans in about 3 more days, the mycelium is moving super fast to make it like snow all over the top.

Here is an estero pan cyan mushroom I picked from one of the cakes already.

I did not have any pins or mushrooms what so ever using expensive humidifiers and dual reptile heater at bottom with adjustable fan, while using the martha tent for almost over a month now...and all the sudden after moving into the Bod's tubs I have mushrooms in just 2 days!

The humidity stays between 94 to 99% all the time in the tub and the temp at 76 degrees F as I have electronic temp/humidity gauges in each tub.

I am so excited as the martha tent did not work for me, but the tubs rule at least in my case, so happy! I see baby mushrooms popping up all over the cakes just since yesterday!

Thank you Bod and Baba Yaga !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pic 1: I'm growing in two of the 54 quart sterlite tubs, and it's working !!!
Pic 2: Inside of one of the two tubs, the 7 birthed cakes the very first day they were put into tub, no mushrooms 1st day, but by next day, I have baby mushrooms all over the cakes, will take another pic when full grown.
Pic 3: I have a Vivo Home seedling heat mat 10" x 20.75" under each tub with can lids as spacers, and they fit perfectly and keep it perfect temp inside even with it being 55 degrees outside.
Pic 4: This estero pan cyan mushroom was picked already.
Pic 5: Piece of cardboard with punched holes on each end from large box with LED strip light reel is the lighting fixture.
Pic 6: Timer to keep lights on for 12 hours
Pic 7: LED strip light reel for price of a movie ticket.
Pic 8: Programmable seedling heat mat set to 80 degrees F underneath jar lids keeps it 76 degrees inside tubs during this January winter, even when it dips down to 50 degrees outside and 68 degrees in the house at night. Temp sensor probe for mats is stuffed underneath the heat mat itself as seen in 1st and 5th photos.
Pic 9: My pan cyan substrate broken up and added from mycobag seen fully reconsolidated in the cake pans or pyrex dish after 6 days.
Pic 10: Even adding a bit of grown out mycelium grain to jars full of sterilized horse poo/straw/vermiculite substrate become colonized in record time. I simply bought pre-packaged and pre-pasteurized 2.5 lbs bags of horse poo mixture substrate on line, added 2 cups or so to each pint jar, put lids on, sterilized at 15 psi for 1 hour, then in front of flow hood, poured some mycelium grain in, shook up, and it colonizes in a week.
Pic 11: The wide mouth jar cultivation lids with injection port and 0.2 micron filter can be bought on line for super cheap
Pic 12 and 13: The grain I started with, added wedges from Florida estero pan cyan agar plates to grain in front of flow hood. 

 


Edited by tregar (01/27/24 07:07 AM)


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