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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit] 1
#27829950 - 06/21/22 07:37 AM (1 year, 7 months ago) |
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Can you change the HEPA filter in an FFU to a ULPA filter from the same company?
Will making an actual 2ft deep hood attached and sealed off the front of the hood help?
I'm curious if my FFU is the culprit for satellite growths in my agar dishes.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit]
#27834084 - 06/24/22 08:19 AM (1 year, 7 months ago) |
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Quote:
Smellyhobbit said: Do prints need to be kept in the fridge? Is that where people normally keep them? I haven’t taken any yet, but my mind defaulted to room temp for some reason.
Either is fine really as long as they're sealed up good. Yeast spores can live in oak barrels for hundreds of years.
The important part is that a print is damp after dropping and needs to dry to extend shelf life. Then wrap it and seal it up good in a jar or vacuum sealer.
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rumfor69
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Quote:
CowsPoopShrooms said: . . Quick Question: Can these single use needles (18g) be re-sterilized in a PC? Yes, they say, "single use". Can they be reused? Can they stand the heat of a PC? If yes, What's a good PC time?

Those pictured were used to inoc PF Tek jars.
You really don't need to pressure cook needles just to push unsterilized spores through them. Put the needle on the syringe, Bring water to a boil in a frying pan, Draw boiling water into the syringe a few times and squirt it in the sink, on the last draw leave the water in the syringe, place on the cap, and wait for it to cool.
Always flame your needles before inoculation and you'll be as good as any spore syringe you buy from a vendor.
Here a tek for it https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=26011681&page=0&vc=1#26011681
Edited by rumfor69 (06/24/22 07:57 PM)
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rumfor69
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Quote:
Oneleggedwarrior said: Quick question...
How long is agar (no pour method) ok to leave before inoculation and are they ok stored in cupboard?
If your dish has gas exchange via micropore tape, sfd, etc then it will dry out eventually depending the thickness, surface area size, type of gas exchange filter, etc
I use 1/4 pint widemouth jars with sfd grain lid setups and they last about 4-5 months Before they start to dry out. They're fine to store at room temp before inoculation for a couple months even if necessary.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit] 2
#27842019 - 06/29/22 08:45 AM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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I've taken pins from contaminated tubs. Actually working with 3 different ones from different contaminated tubs.
Just gotta clean up on agar with transfers
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit]
#27842023 - 06/29/22 08:49 AM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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What's the agar and recipe you're using?
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Guerrilla]
#27842034 - 06/29/22 08:57 AM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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I'm thinking bacteria also cause if it was mold it'd visibly contaminating the dish.
You using a flowhood or SAB?
Could also just be your technique. Are you cooling tools down or letting them cool down all the way before touching them to tissue or spores?
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Rotnpins] 2
#27852617 - 07/06/22 07:51 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
Rotnpins said:
Quote:
Smellyhobbit said: Quick question:
Given the dirty nature of spores, how important is a sterile work environment for the creation of syringes? Does it make much of a difference if I do it out in the open vs a SAB?
Even with the inherently dirty nature of spore syringes, you still want to do everything you can to not increase the possibility/quantity of bacteria/mold spores... the cleaner it is, the more likely you are to have successful colonization
In my opinion, yes, it does make a difference. But that's just 
I agree with this also. Reducing any additional contam vectors is always going to help. I make sterile spore collection jars for this reason. 1/4 pint wide mouth jar, metal wire bent like a little trivet stand, sfd lid setup, pc for 20mins. Set the cap on the wire stand in front of the FH, put the sfd lid back on, spores drop only touching sterile surfaces, cap touches sterile surfaces, when the print looks good, remove the cap and wire stand in front of the FH, put the lid back on, let it sit for days and dry out.
Then you only have to squirt sterile water in the jar, stir with the needle, and suck it up into the syringe. Or just swab with a sterile swab. All in front of the FH of course.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: burner] 3
#27860187 - 07/12/22 05:13 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
burner said: Question: What is that tiny rack used to elevate the agar dishes in front of the flow hood called? Or any links to where to get one or does it even have a name... lol
Thanks
There's probably some expensive lab one but it's really just a cookie cooling rack, same thing.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Vibetyme] 1
#27860194 - 07/12/22 05:15 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
Vibetyme said: Quick question: does anybody know what this contam is?

 Same jar
I'm trying to narrow down where it came from.
Mold, set it on fire and bury it!
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rumfor69
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Quote:
CowsPoopShrooms said: Quick Question: Is finding pins in an agar culture any indication of the cleanliness/contam-free of that specific cup/plate?
Not necessarily but a pin on a dish is a great way to get a clone. Transfer the pin to a new dish, then do a couple of series of transfers after that from the pin clone plate. If ur technique is good you should end up with a clean culture to then test on grain.
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rumfor69
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Quote:
CowsPoopShrooms said:
Quote:
rumfor69 said:
Quote:
CowsPoopShrooms said: Quick Question: Is finding pins in an agar culture any indication of the cleanliness/contam-free of that specific cup/plate?
Not necessarily but a pin on a dish is a great way to get a clone. Transfer the pin to a new dish, then do a couple of series of transfers after that from the pin clone plate. If ur technique is good you should end up with a clean culture to then test on grain.
Ok, I've already transfered them to fresh agar. There was ~11 pins in 7-8 different cups I cut a couple larger ones in half and put them in their own cups totaling ~15 cups.
So, now I have a question about the clone: I read yesterday a post by RogerRabbit saying that just transferring a pin like that is just a T transfer and not a clone. I'll try to relocate it, but any thoughts on that? EDIT: Odd, everything I am finding now is saying the exact opposite. I'll keep looking.
Here ya go:
"Transferring pins from one petri dish to another is redundant. It also isn't cloning, but just transferring. Use that dish to inoculate grains if you want to test the strain. RR" https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/14792641#14792641
However, he has a whole bunch of posts talking just the opposite - specifically about using pins to clone.
I never thought I would do this but... I disagree with RR there. A clone is more genetically isolated. Instead of a multispore dish that has countless genetics in it a pin is going to have significantly less gene types even if it grew on that multispore plate. Plus it can be a good sign of a prolific fruiting variant that will fruit in less than ideal conditions. Add that to the pin growing on a less than clean plate and you could get something a little more contam resilient in addition to prolific traits.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: DERRAYLD]
#27863575 - 07/15/22 10:44 AM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Question: With shiitake blocks, say using Aloha75, running in proper conditions, what is the average wet harvest yield per block?
Say for 100 blocks how much weight harvest?
Do you dunk blocks b4 fruiting or after first flush or not at all?
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: kirkeng]
#27863689 - 07/15/22 12:18 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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That's good info and coming from a farming experience vs hobby growing. I realize all sorts of variables can affect yield but I just want to have some kind of average idea for future plans. Seems like a reasonable idea would be 0.75lb yield per 1lb of block material.
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: kirkeng]
#27863943 - 07/15/22 05:15 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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The shiitake blocks in my sig produced just over 1lb each. They were some cheap tissue sample I got off a rando farm site. And I fruited them in a wrongly designed SGFC.
RR has pics of his Aloha75 blocks and you can't even see the block they're so covered in fruits.
0.75lb yield per 1lb of block(including the water cause they're 90% made of water) Doesn't seem unreasonable in proper conditions with a nice Aloha75 culture from Aloha Medicinals.
Just doesn't seem right to think that 200 blocks, 1,000lbs of material&water, Would only get you 200lbs of yield.
I don't think taking the water outta the BE math is correct.
Edited by rumfor69 (07/15/22 05:22 PM)
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: AphexPin]
#27863987 - 07/15/22 06:13 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Ok, I'm learning stuff. I didn't know the water is excluded when it's so crucial to yield.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: AphexPin]
#27864070 - 07/15/22 07:49 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
AphexPin said:
Quote:
rumfor69 said: Ok, I'm learning stuff. I didn't know the water is excluded when it's so crucial to yield.
Yeah it seems counter-intuitive at first, but is helpful imo so you can calculate cost effectiveness of various subs regardless of water content. Since water is so cheap, excluding it allows you to compare the costlier inputs with ease. It's not a scientific term but an industry one that varies from industry to industry. 'Economic efficiency' would probably less confusing.
Ahhh ok that makes sense for sure. Just been trying to calculate what a shiitake block farm could make in income. Wholesalers in my area will only pay you like $2-$3 a pound. If a block only produces one lb thats not very promising.
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: AphexPin]
#27864088 - 07/15/22 08:07 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
AphexPin said: Why shiitake and not oysters, lions mane, etc? Shiitake is a lot more competitive and will produce less per sq foot than oysters and lions mane due to the long colonization times. Additionally, shiitake has a decent shelf life, robustness and ships well, while oysters don't, so it's easier to 'stand out' as a local, small time oyster and lions mane farmer since you can produce stuff you really can't quite get elsewhere.
I have pondered that aspect and it makes sense definitely. I just figured 200 blocks a week, 3 lbs per block, 600 lbs x $2 = an ok living considering my house is paid for. Easy to just drop bulk on a large wholesaler, no distribution on my end.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: AphexPin]
#27864110 - 07/15/22 08:25 PM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
AphexPin said: 3lbs would be a very good yield from a 5lb block though, fiy. And it may be more difficult than you think to secure wholesalers. Not to discourage, I think you should definitely give it a go, but just because you can produce 600lbs a week doesn't mean you'll be able offload that much. I'm trying to do the same with oysters and lions mane right now and it's not easy. I'd definitely start small with oysters and lions mane, the equipment used throughout is identical, shiitakes just need more space and shelves.
I called 3 different largest food wholesalers around me. They all said that's not very much. The one said I'd have to deliver it cause its so small and they service 4 states including one of the biggest cities in USA. I figured A 40ft shipping container for colonization A 20ft one for fruiting. And go from there.
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rumfor69
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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Rotnpins] 1
#27865941 - 07/17/22 09:00 AM (1 year, 6 months ago) |
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Ok I had to click it and check it out. 
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