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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2446726 -

Doesn't look like anyone is hitting the topic about the HEPA he purchased as well...

What type of HEPA is this? Can you get a brand and model number? There are a few different varieties each having their positive and negatives. Used HEPA's are pretty cheap because the actual HEPA filter tends to cost the most to replace. $100 HEPA units can be purchaed routinely on Ebay for less than $30. If you are careful about the model you select and shop around for the replacement HEPA filters (ebay is great for this too) you can often get models in which changing the HEPA (only done once every 1-3 years) is relatively cheap.

The best stand alone HEPA air cleaners tend to be the "canister" style Honeywell hepas in which the air is sucked in through the filter in a 360 degree intake and expelled though a 360 exhaust. Changing the pre-filter every 3 months is critical to prolonging the life of the actual HEPA filter. Prefilters are usually only $10 each.

You can check to see how "good" your HEPA filter is by looking at the intake side of the filter (where the dirty air comes in) if it is new then the filter will be white. The filter turns grey with age, and if it is close to black then toss it.

The HEPA will vey VERY effective in filtering and exchanging air in the room where your growing chambers are located. This will help reduce airborn molds and bacteria a fair bit if the HEPA is left on a "low" setting at all times. It will also reduce the amount of "junk" in your indoor air like dust, pollen, other spores, ect.

I have three running in my house and a few in our office.

Hope you find this helpful.


--------------------
psilocyber!
SporeWorks: Exotic Mushroom Culture and Spore Supply

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: psilocyber]
    #2446771 -

:thumbup:

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: psilocyber]
    #2457319 -

right on thats the info he needs. right now his new grow chamber is a 14x8 foot room, with vinyl floors, and vinyl based wall papper, got two ultrasonics, one ona timer 3x a day for 30 minutes, the other one is just for extra. seems to be going ok.



discored

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2458285 -

that's kinda scarry.....but nice.


--------------------
"From a certain point of view"
-Jedi Master Obi Wan Kenobi

PM me with any cultivation questions.

I just looked at my profile and realized I had a website at one point in time on geocities, it's not there anymore and I have no idea what I had on it. Anybody remember my website from several years aga? PM if so please.

Edited by mycofile (03/21/04 07:26 PM)

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Re: Cool mists can dry if the air turn over is high enough. [Re: Blue Helix]
    #2458419 -

a foafs chamber; 5x2x5, height,width,length right? 60" martha stewart tent w/ zipper front. kaz coolmist w/ 2 1/2 in braided pvc tube. so i bet airflow was increased about 4-5 times over just a normal garden hose. your right the airturnover is more than necessary but it doesnt hurt at all. cuases evaporation off of the casing layer tho, gotta mist alot. the ultrasonic cycled 15 on / hour off via a normal size garden hose. humidity is no problem with the ultrasonic, tweaking it does take some time. a digital thermometer/humidity gauge w/ memory of highs and lows came in handy. about restricting the air flow, you could always just throw the cool mist on a timer, then youd have to retweak the ultrasonic ; ). the work is almost as much fun as the result. tweaking gets repetitive though.

discored: that is alot of casings man, alot of time and effort. good work.



Edited by fresh313 (03/21/04 08:12 PM)

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Re: Cool mists can dry if the air turn over is high enough. [Re: fresh313]
    #2458492 -

discored: that is alot of casings man, alot of time and effort. good work.


actually it didn't take that much work, 36 pf jars, at .5 jars per casing, cased with 50/50 +lime, the casings total took about 4 horus, the jars less then an hour to inoculate, and less then 30 minutes to prepare for sterilization. the only factor my friend hasn't considered is what he should do with the casing layer, for a while he was sterilzing then he started pasturizing then stopped treating it all together, his contamination increased but not by much, he says he will go back to pasturizing. anyway my friend appricieates your compliment.


discored

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: Akrobatik]
    #2459850 -

Akrobatik I have what appears to be the same humidifier as you. I have a similar setup minus the pop bottles. I have found that I get way too much humidity with the humidifer and i have recently started to use it empty with just the fan going and occasionally putting water in it. I plan on either adding an entire new terranium hooked up to its output with the terraium I am using or possibly just adding the bottles. The terranium I am using is a rubbermaid bin similar to what you have. I was just wondering if you use your humidifer as air exchange as well. Also if I add another terranium do you think that the humidifer will provide a sufficient amount of air exchange to both. I am certain it will provide enough humidity since it can fill up and entire bin with 100% humidity in about 2-3 minutes.

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2461118 -

so why exactly do you say scary? just wondering



discored

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2467503 -

they looked like quart jar size casings

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: fresh313]
    #2473119 -

nope only half a pf jar is used per tray. back to the original premise of this thread though. someone was telling me that ultrasonic humidifiers produced a dry mist? what the hell is a dry mist. i didn't really get teh concept anyone think they know what this guy is talking about .

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2724913 -

Here are some pictures of my ultrasonic humidifier setup. It uses a 10 gallon culligan jug to trap the condensation so it does not over-saturate the casings. IMO it produces a little bit too much humidity for casings, I recently transferred over to a cool mist for this little setup, however i'll put the ultrasonic back into commission once i get my Martha stewart closet mate. I'll run the cool mist 24/7 for air exchange etc, and if the humidity isn't where i want it I'll put the ultrasonic on a timer to get the humidity levels req.

Here are the pics, enjoy!







--------------------
"... Another way for gnomes to say......."

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: Piper]
    #2727900 -

discorded

ive found that humidification in a larger grow area is easier when you have steam humidification (vicks type dimmer controlled) as long as your grow area is well ventilated (steam puts off heat)

as for floors carpeted doesnt work well, i used shelving and hardwood floors with powerded bleach and a fresh mop, when things got damp.

lots of mild peroxide on casing layer too this solved the biggest problem i had with cobweb

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Re: hepa and humidifier info [Re: discored]
    #2728523 -

discored said:
someone was telling me that ultrasonic humidifiers produced a dry mist? what the hell is a dry mist. i didn't really get teh concept anyone think they know what this guy is talking about .


cool mist = ultrasonic = sound waves used to convert water to vapor

warm mist = heated = heat element converts water to steam vapor


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To be honest, I fear the OTD. ---TheMadConductor

Now I'm gonna have to start getting down on my knees and blowing mushrooms... ---RogerRabbit

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Advanced Mycology
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