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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Faht’s wild and crazy printing method * 7
    #27278816 - 04/23/21 02:10 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)



Edit 2023:  I’m in the process of cleaning up this thread because it evolved a lot from when I first started making them.  For now, pay attention to the highlighted updates sections for changes made and what I currently do

Yoyoyo party peeps.. I’d like to share my current printing method. I feel that it’s about as clean as I can get. I’m not sure anyone is going to replicate it :lol: because at first glance it appears pretty complicated (like most of my methods I suppose) but fack it... who doesn’t like a super long spoon fed pictorial of insanity?  but it works great and maybe there will be parts that ppl use or gives them ideas of their own. Now... if you have a flowhood, you can skip the oven bag all together and just use the foil lined jar and use a tongs or the like to set the cap onto the foil spacer in front of the hood and be done with it. 

The main reason I do my prints this way is that I want the cleanest possible prints that I can go straight to grain with for stabilizing crosses and phenos as fast as possible... stabilizing can take forever and a day if you’re having to grow out on agar and then transfer and grow that gen out etc, so I feel pretty confident that I can make a syringe from one of these jars and get a decent first flush to carry onto the next gen without worrying too much about contamination.  I can’t remember who I saw foil-line their jar for printing.. it was on here so if that was you, feel free to take credit because I think it’s a great idea. :headbanger:

OVERVIEW:
First off... I love oven bags and use them A LOT. They’re easy to modify and PCable. Basically, I’m sealing a foil lined (except for the bottom) 4oz jar with modified lid inside an oven bag and pc’ing that to sterilize. Then taking a cap and putting it inside the oven bag through a small gap in the opening and resealing.. then from outside the bag, I manipulate the cap inside the jar with a small wire hook/handle and print it to the bottom of the jar.. I use a folded SS wire mesh to keep the cap off the bottom of the jar while allowing the spores to drop past the mesh to print to the bottom so that no part of the cap comes into contact with the inside of the jar. Once the print is dropped, I flip the jar over (this is all while the bag is still sealed) to remove the cap and spacer and pull the foil out of the jar. Then I put a tiny wire disk (really anything tiny and magnetic—that’s pc’d in the bag with the jar) into the jar with the print and screw the lid back on. Then remove from the sealed bag and let dry for at least a week
Before use.

For some of this I’m just going to have to explain without pics because I didn’t decide to make this post until after I had made some of these. Should be easy enough to follow though

ITEMS NEEDED:

- 1 x “large size” oven bag... they’re smaller than the turkey size.
- Foil - can be either regular or heavy duty
- 2 x 2” long 3/4” dia. tubing stuffed tight with polyfil
- 1 x empty syringe barrel (without the plunger) stuffed tight with polyfil
- 1 x 4oz foil lined jar and modified lid.. lid construction can be found here https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6886717/an/0/page/0 (I use blue painters tape now instead of duct.. works better.
- 1 x small (1/4”) magnetic screw or other small magnetic metal... I like to use thin wire that I coil into a tight flat coil with a pliers. Try to get a coated screw if you can because exposed metal will rust but really, it doesn’t pose a problem if there is rust... it’s just there
- Painters tape
- 4” zip ties
- little tyvek pouch for the metal disk and cap handle
- really strong magnets.. has to be strong enough to manipulate the screw/metal through the thickness of the glass jar with a good amount of control. I use rare earth magnets I got on Amazon

Setting Up the Printing Jar:

1. Line the clean 4oz jar with foil on the inside (not the bottom, that’s where the print goes)... I use two pieces that overlap each other and are ~1” longer than the top of the jar so there’s a good amount to fold over the threads and help keep the foil in place. You’ll have to rip the foil flap in a few places so the you can fold it over easily because it’s in half moon shape. There might be a bit of glass exposed on the very top of the rim at those tears... you can put a small piece of foil over those areas if you want or just be careful not to touch the cap to those spots when you insert it into the jar


2. You can see there’s already the spacer in the jar (eventually I’ll take my ass to the hardware store and buy some stainless steel mesh to make the spacers because the foil is tedious and doesn’t work great for really small caps; they can fall through and touch the bottom of the jar) and I make that by taking a 1.25” wide by 6-8” long piece of foil and fold it into a 1/2” thick strip... then I roll that around my finger and then unroll it gently into a spiral shape.


UPDATE: bought some stainless steel woven mesh from the zon... really easy to do... figure out how many “squares” (the grid pattern of the mesh) it takes to fit into the bottom of the jar with a little room (for the mesh I got, it was 6), then cut out a rectangle that is that many squares wide by double that many squares long.. you’re going to fold the rectangle in half so that it keeps the cap raised off the bottom


It does appear to still be rusting so I’m going to coat the mesh with clear nail polish so I can keep reusing them


Modifying the Oven Bag:

1. We’re going to attach the 2 poly filled tubes and syringe barrel to the oven bag. The tubing is for venting so that the bag doesn’t explode in the pc and steam can enter it. The syringe barrel is a filter that I use to inflate the bag with a fish tank bubbler. The bag is inflated so that you have room to work inside the bag and move things around after being sterilized since we deflate the bag prior to pc’ing. Cut the corners of the bottom of the oven bag off just enough so that the tubes fit through it. Use the 4” zip ties (2) to attach the tubes. I use two offset zip ties so that if there’s a gap between the clasp head and band, they close each other’s off, like so..


Do that on both corners

2. Do the same with the syringe barrel.. you can put it anywhere near the bottom of the oven bag... make sure you have the syringe tip facing out of the oven bag... that’s where you attach the fish tank bubbler hose. (I didn’t have to go out and buy a special hose or anything.. the hose that comes with the bubbler conveniently fits snugly on the tip of the syringe barrel)


You’ll see a picture of the bag set up shortly

That’s it! Your oven bag has been modified. Not so hard, right?

PrePC Procedure:

let me take a minute to talk about the lid.. you don’t have to use that specific lid but it’s really important that your lid has a large portion of it be FAE.. whether it be a couple layers of tyvek or synthetic filter disk. There’s going to be some water left in the jar after you extract your spore water and you need to allow that to dry quickly. You also want the print to be able to dry quickly after to take it. If you have a small filter, you risk bacteria taking over in the pooling water. The other thing you want is a self healing injection port. There’s no point in going through all this trouble with the oven bag if you’re just going to poke a hole in the tyvek and just put tape over it or something.

1. Take your foiled jar with modified lid (you won’t be able to screw the lid on, just push it down snugly so it doesn’t fall off while in the bag) and put it inside the oven bag near the back/bottom


2. I make a little pouch with tyvek that I put the screw/metal coil into and put that into the bag with the jar (I put it on top of the lid)


3. Fold the opening of the bag over ~1/2” and tape shut with painters tape all the way across except for 3 inches on one side (be sure to smooth out any wrinkles in the tape so there’s no air gaps).. that’s going to be where we insert the cap into the bag. The idea is to minimize as much room air from entering the sterile bag as possible. I even make sure any gaps are taped up on the end that doesn’t have the port for the cap.


4. Get as much air out of the bag as possible so that you can fit multiple bags in the pc at a time. Now we need to seal up the cap port... I do that by rolling that spot a couple times and then folding it in on itself and then rolling a couple more times and folding it again and then put a zip tie around that “bunch”. We zip tie it so it can easily be unfolded/unrolled when we want to insert the cap into the bag


Here’s the whole bag assembled with the jar and screw/metal coil inside


5. Take the sealed bag and fold it into a ball. Here’s 3 printing bags made up and ready to be pc’d


6. I use a piece of foil where I pull the corners up around the ball to try and keep water from the bottom of the pc from touching the bag... it’s ok if it does but I think the less water, the better


7. After I load them into the pc, I place a piece of foil over all three


8. I pc them at ~18 psi for 45 minutes
After they’re cool, I take them out and let them dry. I’ve had sterilized bags sit around for weeks and used them and didn’t have problems with contamination. I store them in large ziplocks until I’m ready to use them

The Printing Procedure (this is the part I don’t have pictures for unfortunately)

1. Find a cap that’s sporelating... if you want to print a large cap from a fruit that you like it’s pheno but the cap won’t fit into a 4oz jar, simply use a iso’d sharp scissors to cut the cap down to size... works just fine. Just be sure to clean any gill bits that might be left over. Also, clean any debris off the top of the cap and any veil remnants that are on the edge of the cap. You don’t want those bits to fall onto the bottom of the jar when you’re printing.

2. Cut the stem as close to the gills as possible without disturbing the gills. You want it to sit on the spacer flat.

3. Attach the fish tank bubbler hose to the syringe barrel filter and plug the bubbler in. It’ll take between 3-5 minutes to blow the bag up enough that you can easily move the cap around in the bag.


4. Cut the zip tie that’s holding your cap port “bunch” and unfold/unroll it. The bag will be kind of stuck together a bit there because it was bunched together during pc’ing... just pull it apart until you get to the part of bag opening that’s not taped.

5. With the gills facing up, open the cap port on the bag and put the cap inside through the 3” hole.. do this as quickly as possible. I like to push any air back out of the bag while I insert the cap to try and keep room air out of the bag


6. Once the caps inside the bag, seal the cap port back up by rolling/folding and zip tying like before.

7. Re-inflate the bag with the bubbler so that you have room to move things around inside easily.. make sure you don’t over inflate it or it’ll be hard to manipulate the jar and cap from outside.


8. Once inflated to a manageable amount, unhook the bubbler hose. Move the cap over to where the jar is or vice versa... try to keep the gills up

***UPDATE 10/17/21:  this is the final update and how I’ll be doing this from now on.. it just the easiest way.. no jar flipping (except after the print has dropped to get the wire mesh and foil out of the jar) or pill bottle, etc.  I simply make a little wire “handle” that has an L on the end of it that goes into the top of the cap and allows me to easily lift the cap in and out of the jar.. so easy.


**end of update… I’ll leave the original post intact just so you can see what I did before sockadin enlightened me lol

For pics of this next part, look at the section “after the print drops” below in reverse

9. Take the lid off the jar and flip the jar over the cap so that the foil spacer is now sitting on top of the gills of the cap.

10. Work your fingers under the cap and push it up to the bottom of the jar.. (the bag is malleable so it’s easy to do) so that the spacer is touching the bottom of the jar (remember the jar is upside down over the cap) and flip the jar back over.***update I actually started using a pill bottle with the cap screwed on upside down so there’s a divet for the cap to sit into and put the bottle (from outside the bag) underneath the cap (with spacer sitting on top) and just slide the jar over that and then flip both the bottle and jar over and works so much better than trying to use your fingers


Now you should have the cap sitting in the spacer and the spacer is sitting in the bottom of the jar. (Also note how you can tell I cut the cap down to size with a scissors to fit the jar)


11. Put on the lid (doesn’t have to be super tight—just so it’s on the jar) and let that sit for 8 hours while the cap prints

After the Print Has Dropped:

1. Take the lid off the jar and flip the jar upside down to remove the cap and spacer


2. Pull the jar off the cap and spacer off to the side.


3. With your fingers, pinch the foil and pull the jar up to remove the foil from the jar and turn the jar right side up.


4. Take the tyvek pouch and open it.. drop the screw/metal coil into the jar and screw the lid on


5. Cut the bag open and remove your jar with print.


Tada!

There ya go! Beautiful print safely inside a clean jar. Let that dry for a week before you use it to make spore syringes. Hopefully this lets any bacteria die off that may have been attached to spores etc.

When I use the jar for the first time, I do a wash of the jar with a sterile syringe... I simply inject the sterile water into the jar and swirl it around all over the inside of the jar and suck it back out and discard that water... this is to further clean any dust or what have you that may be on the jar surface.

After I inject the second sterile syringe, I take the magnets and scrape part of the print into the water and suck back up.

Here’s a shot of just how strong the magnets are...


That screw is standing on its end against the glass on the inside of the jar and I’m about a 1/2” away from the jar  You can get pretty surgical with the strong magnets..


^^^ that’s actually the first one I mad where I used a screw screwed into the bottom of the cap where the stem was cut to keep it off the bottom of the jar... the foil spacer worked much better (again, SS mesh is going to be the best option).  Here’s the 2 grows of that pea+ F2 print I did..



Are they the cleanest grows? Nope, but that’s not the point... no grow directly from spore is going to 100% clean, but all I need is to get to a first flush with enough phenos showing to choose from (for the F2) or the pheno that I’m trying to isolate (anything past the F2) so I can move onto the next gen.

Here’s more grows that I used the jar prints for..


Here’s a pfrs that came out really nice using a jar print


A PE/apeu f2 grow using the jar print straight to glc grains


A PE/RW F2 grow using the jar print straight to glc grains


PE/RW f7 16qt tub and 2 cakes


Don’t forget to cut off the reusable pieces (tubing and syringe barrel) from your bag before you discard it!


I can keep coming back to these jars to retrieve spores over and over again if I like and feel pretty good about getting a clean flush. The only time I’ve had bacterial problems is when I didn’t wait a week to use the spores (tried using them the next day) and even then I still got a flush that was plenty good enough to move onto the next gen.  I know it looks complicated but it’s really not... the hardest part is making all the attachments but you only have to make them once and takes about 5 mins to assemble a bag once those are made.  Thanks for checking out my wild and crazy printing method!



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OfflineFungi Rogers
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27278834 - 04/23/21 02:38 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)

Indeed looks a little complicated on the outside. But this is a solid way of doing it. Definitely looks like a good way to speed up looking for phenos. Great job!


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OfflineDERRAYLD
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Fungi Rogers]
    #27278847 - 04/23/21 03:15 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)

I've been following everything on mycotopia, you have some wild methods but they clearly work :laugh:


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InvisibleBenson
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: DERRAYLD] * 1
    #27278999 - 04/23/21 07:35 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)

This is some mad scientist shit, I love it :rockon:


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InvisiblePodamous
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Benson]
    #27279162 - 04/23/21 10:41 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)

your right about the absolute time drain when having to transfer it out a bunch of times. Great tek :thumbup:


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Pod dumbs down: Flowhoods


Edited by Podamous (04/23/21 10:48 AM)


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Invisiblewoofwoof
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Podamous]
    #27279181 - 04/23/21 11:19 AM (2 years, 9 months ago)

Fhat, you are awesome! Thanks for sharing this method! I shall give it a go


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: woofwoof]
    #27279673 - 04/23/21 07:11 PM (2 years, 9 months ago)

Thanks y’all!  I would love to see someone else whip one of these up

Faht


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InvisibleSmartattack
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27279708 - 04/23/21 07:39 PM (2 years, 9 months ago)

:eek::eek::eek:

God damn man, that's a shroom induced process for sure.


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Invisiblemicelio
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Smartattack]
    #27282715 - 04/26/21 01:34 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Very nice well done tek..

When It comes to making spore prints I'm the world worse..

I fail 100% of the time, for years..

Making prints Is one of the most important parts of the growing process.
It's the foundation. without a clean print your pissing into the wind.

Faht In your teks you made a statement: Let that dry for a week before you use it to make spore syringes.

That statement hit home.

I always thought that wrapping my print in foil Is one of my reason for my bacteria and I never really gave my prints time to dry.

A couple of months back I decided to use printing paper instead of foil.
I bought a ream of paper and opened It in the flow and  cut squares the size to fit my deli containers.
after a few hours I had a heavy spore print going so I pull that cap and replace a new paper under It.
12 hours later I had a light to medium print. I took that print and folded it and place It in a plastic gallon jug of desiccant (Home Dry from Costco) for two days.
To make a long story short, I ended up with a nice clean dry print that delivered the best results that I ever had.


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: micelio]
    #27282740 - 04/26/21 01:51 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Nice!  And thanks :thumbup: 

Yeah I think it’s info that kinda goes under the radar.  I’ve seen it time and time again.. especially when making spore solution out of swabs.. the only time I’ve failed is when I didn’t wait for the swabs to dry for at least a week and I’ve done it a dozen times if not more.  It makes sense to me... bacteria needs water to live and reproduce.. unless it’s an endospore producing bacteria, it’s going to die (at least as I understand it with my limited knowledge of bacteria). Whatever’s going on, the process I’m following seems to be working.

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #27291968 - 05/03/21 12:22 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

This is awesome. Way more detailed and intricate than my version I am still working the kinks out of. But it is based on your version.

I would say to try the paper clip skewer and see if it makes it easier.


The other thing I have noticed is that these Jelly Jars make putting 12CC of water into the jar I keep ending up with 8-10CC of sore solution because there is a spot the needle cant get to. I will keep working on that.
Very Cool !

Nice Job Faht!


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OnlineLogicaL ChaosM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27292078 - 05/03/21 01:38 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Damn faht! Next level printing!

I remember u talking about using magnets for spore syringe making, its awesome to see it in action.

:solidnod:


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Sockadin] * 1
    #27292086 - 05/03/21 01:42 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Thanks guys

Quote:

Sockadin said:
This is awesome. Way more detailed and intricate than my version I am still working the kinks out of. But it is based on your version.

I would say to try the paper clip skewer and see if it makes it easier.


The other thing I have noticed is that these Jelly Jars make putting 12CC of water into the jar I keep ending up with 8-10CC of sore solution because there is a spot the needle cant get to. I will keep working on that.
Very Cool !

Nice Job Faht!




Yeah that’s why the lid having a big area of exposed filter is important.. that liquid dries up in like a day with the lids I use

Faht


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27292156 - 05/03/21 02:11 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Oh yeah.. sock.. do you just put a little hook on the end of the paper clip and then turn it a bit after you stick it in the cap?  A safety pin might work well.. just open it up a bit more and the stick the end straight through the top and there’s a shorter “handle” for the shorter jars.. Whatya think?

Faht


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InvisibleSamushlove
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #27292190 - 05/03/21 02:36 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

That's a solid tek , keep them coming


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27292245 - 05/03/21 03:02 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

I just bend the leading edge of the clip straight and wrap it in foil and PC it. Then it is clean and sterile.


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27292252 - 05/03/21 03:07 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

I mean so that it stays in the cap... it doesn’t just pull out when you lift the cap?  I’d think it’d need a lil hook on it to keep the cap from falling off.. no?

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27292453 - 05/03/21 05:04 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Nope just an L shape and it stays in the cap.


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InvisiblefahtsterM
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Sockadin] * 1
    #27296101 - 05/05/21 07:45 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

Sockadin said:
Nope just an L shape and it stays in the cap.




Ah.. I see.. so you just poke the bottom piece of the L tip into the cap sideways.  Cool!  That’s easy enough :lol:

Bought some wire mesh from Amazon to make the spacers to keep the cap off the bottom.. 

Copy/pasted from the edited OP:

UPDATE: bought some stainless steel woven mesh from the zon... really easy to do... figure out how many “squares” (the grid pattern of the mesh) it takes to fit into the bottom of the jar with a little room (for the mesh I got, it was 6), then cut out a rectangle that is that many squares wide by double that many squares long.. you’re going to fold the rectangle in half so that it keeps the cap raised off the bottom


It does appear to still be rusting so I’m going to coat the mesh with clear nail polish so I can keep reusing them


Faht


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Invisiblesandman420
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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27296239 - 05/05/21 09:30 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

ol' oven bag over here just killing it.

You got your foil female condom and everything.

Turning it upside down to dump it all out cleanly is very clever idea.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: sandman420]
    #27296383 - 05/06/21 12:01 AM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Some crazy great method faht :thumbup:

What if you would just have a small hole in the lid,
where the clip peeps through, and place a small bracket there,
grabbing the clip, and adjust to desired height for bottom space?

Just thinking, maybe total bullshit :biggrin:

                :cookiemonster:


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Goatrider]
    #27296387 - 05/06/21 12:09 AM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Thanks for checking it out!

Really want to avoid the hole in the lid.  Reason for going through all the trouble of the oven bag is to avoid unclean air... but I like the thought process :thumbup:  plan on trying the small safety pin or just cutting the paper clip shorter.  I think both will work well.

For the PE/apeu I just did, I took a tongs and just picked the cap up from outside the bag and put it in the jar.. it worked aight.. I did have to drop the cap from the top of the jar because the cap was a decent size but the clip/pin “handle” is going to work well.. can’t see why it won’t.

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27296410 - 05/06/21 12:31 AM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Aww yeah, makes sense.
I overlooked this :crazy:

    :cookiemonster:


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Goatrider]
    #27298907 - 05/07/21 04:20 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Yeah man I like the metal mesh. I wonder if Galvanized would hold up and prevent it from rusting under high heat? Im still in the old throw the cap on the glass and run like hell.

I just did the Poor Mans version of this with my new AmazonXpeu cross.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Sockadin]
    #27298918 - 05/07/21 04:28 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

He just needs to get a new stainless mesh supplier lol it should not be rusting. Chinese fake stainless.

Stainless will only rust when it contact with carbon metal


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: sandman420]
    #27298923 - 05/07/21 04:30 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

I know but Galvanized is zinc coated and cheep.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Sockadin]
    #27298929 - 05/07/21 04:32 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

It will rust when put through a pc but I don't think it is any problem. The pressure forces moisture under the coating.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: sandman420]
    #27299118 - 05/07/21 06:26 PM (2 years, 8 months ago)

Yeah definitely cheap Amazon “stainless”.. I was just being lazy and making an order for other stuff.. thought what the hell.  I’m sure Home Depot has some of the good good

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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #27486065 - 09/29/21 07:13 AM (2 years, 3 months ago)

Did my first print of the season… use my SS mesh and a little wire “handle” to put the cap in the jar and pull it out and holy shit is that so much easier than what I was doing before.. so thanks a ton for that, Sockadin.. you made my life much easier and I feel even better about how clean they’re gonna turn out.. might not even line the jars with foil (probably still will because I like overkill :lol:) because it’s so precise and fast.

Made a print of a PE/RW F2 pheno (dual pigmented with rust spores).  If I can stabilize the pheno, I’m gonna call it the rusty boob :lol:



The clear nail polish on the mesh held up great in the pc too… the only on the mesh afterwards were the spores :wink:

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27542464 - 11/13/21 11:45 PM (2 years, 2 months ago)

Nat print captured!  Really excited about this one.  Doing a second one for good measure


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27542803 - 11/14/21 08:54 AM (2 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

fahtster said:
5. With the gills facing up, open the cap port on the bag and put the cap inside through the 3” hole.. do this as quickly as possible. I like to push any air back out of the bag while I insert the cap to try and keep room air out of the bag






No offense, but why on earth would you leave the gills side up?

Gravity is your friend.  If the gills are facing down they are at least slightly protected.  To each their own, you obviously get a lot of enjoyment out of over-engineering and that can be fun.  But if you already have a SAB you can accomplish the same results with so much less work.


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Edited by DcevLearn (11/14/21 09:08 AM)


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: DcevLearn]
    #27542863 - 11/14/21 10:08 AM (2 years, 2 months ago)

Maybe no ones questioned it because they realize the gills are up exposed for like 2 seconds while I slide it in the bag (the cap is just sitting there so I could take a pic) and it’s either that or have them rake over the surface

I don’t expect ppl to do this. Lol there’s 0 posts of ppl replicating this which I feel I made pretty clear in the first paragraph, that I understand.  I also explain why I’m doing this… it was about speed and sterility to stabilize new PE infused varieties to give to the community.  It works so well, it’s all I use for printing now. 

When working with something inherently unclean like a spore print, minimizing all other factors that add to its uncleanliness like, raking the gills across a surface where gravity pulls contamination is a good idea, imo

Trust me, I’m just as lazy as the next guy but I’d rather do a little extra work in the beginning than waste a whole bunch of time three steps up because I opened a jar in a SAB and when you’re trying to go through gens as fast as possible, any step back sucks.  To give ya an idea of just how lazy I am, here’s some jars that were going bacterial so I re-pc’d them and hit em with a different culture


For my next hilarious bit, the second nat print


My methods may seem over-engineered and complicated to you but I assure you, they’re no joke

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27543066 - 11/14/21 01:12 PM (2 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

fahtster said:
Maybe no ones questioned it...




Looks like you read my edit, must be nice to have the M-tag.  I changed it to be more polite while still offering a suggestion.

I still think you could accomplish the same or better results in a SAB.  Few improvements I would do:
  • Transfer the cap once you are all setup (gills down)
  • Make a throwaway print on foil for a few hours before transferring to your sterile jelly jar (hopefully any contaminates would fall first)


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: DcevLearn]
    #27543085 - 11/14/21 01:35 PM (2 years, 2 months ago)

My m-tag has nothing to do with reading a post before you edit it.  Mods can’t read pre-edited posts.. maybe site admins can.  i simply responded to what I read before you changed your post

I appreciate your suggestions :thumbup:


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27543110 - 11/14/21 01:57 PM (2 years, 2 months ago)

Neat method faht I've been thinking of coating some wire in nail polish to make spore syringes like this just using a sab.

Might be able to line the bottom with foil  to save prints and let them dry with a modded lid. May even use it to dry a bunch of swabs at once.

I've been having trouble getting decently clean swabs/print/syringes just using the press and seal method.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Drboomer] * 1
    #27569573 - 12/04/21 07:17 PM (2 years, 1 month ago)

This what these guys allow me to do.. go straight to grain and get lots of phenos with confidence.. PE/RW f3


Printing this guy


Onto f4!

Faht


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #27569577 - 12/04/21 07:21 PM (2 years, 1 month ago)

I still have no idea wtf this is or what you are doing and I'm happy with that. I just look at what you do and perceive it as some kind of voodoo magic.


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: Smartattack]
    #27569591 - 12/04/21 07:38 PM (2 years, 1 month ago)

:lol:  I guess as long as I get it, that’s all that matters


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Re: Faht’s wild and crazy printing method [Re: fahtster]
    #27569907 - 12/05/21 03:35 AM (2 years, 1 month ago)

Got the f4!


Gonna give it a week to dry just to be sure and get er rollin


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