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mycorry
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Re: Official Hoogshagenii/Semperviva Thread [Re: nosf3r4tu] 8
#27070187 - 12/03/20 02:41 PM (3 years, 1 month ago) |
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Just for clarification because it bothers me so much to see these misnomers being thrown around.
Is this thread meant to be focused on hoogshagenii or subtropicales? I ask becaus hoogshagenii var convexa and semperviva are old outdated names for the species called Psilocybe subtropicales. Subtropicales is not directly related to hoogshagenii. The iconic big nippled hoogshagenii is a separate species of which few have spores of.
VS  Psilocybe hoogshagenii Psilocybe subtropicales
Having said that, It is my opinion that subtropicales is the best mushroom for cultivation after one gains experience with cubensis. It is better in every way, trust me and try it, but get your spores from a reputable source. I have 4 sets of subtropicales genetics and two of them are by far more aggressive at pinning and colonization than the others.
My preferred strategy with these is to set a petri dish(must be the ventilated type) with subtropicales myc aside for a few months to wait for a dish pin. Clone that dish pin and use it to nock up grain jars. It should do the trick for just about every type of fruiting chamber. Just be sure that the plate that has been set aside to pin has only had maybe 2 transfers from the original so to retain as many sets of genes as possible.
I have a flush coming up right now that should be ready for pics in a few weeks!(it's cold, so they are slow) I'll post 'em when they happen 
Edit: Here's a pic of those pins. This specific culture seems to really like a plain Choir casing layer compared to peat:verm.

Edited by mycorry (12/03/20 04:13 PM)
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mycorry
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Re: Official Hoogshagenii/Semperviva Thread [Re: RiverBum] 2
#27071496 - 12/04/20 09:50 AM (3 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
RiverBum said: So is OP actually referring to P. Subtropicalis? I have been referring to the species I have as Semperviva because I have been confused as to what species it actually is. It appears I have Subtropicalis. Thanks for the clarification Mycorry 
No problem!
That top down pic in your sig of the subtropicales jar is magical
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Re: Official P. Subtropicales/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal] 1
#27084727 - 12/11/20 08:46 PM (3 years, 1 month ago) |
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S_C Great job!
The only way to know if they are ready to print is by taking a close look at the gills. Subtrop spores are black so once you start seeing it build up it is time to print them.
Please be sure to clone that cluster.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicales/Semperviva Thread [Re: RiverBum] 3
#27085386 - 12/12/20 09:57 AM (3 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
RiverBum said: Beautiful grow poison! I like how those caps dont aggressively curl upwards like they do for me. Any insight on what might make the caps do that?
My experience with subtrops has shown that early flushes will have the tightly curled cap where with later flushes the cap curl can relax all the way to the point where it doesn't curl anymore. This is easy to see because the species contam resistant so it's not unusual to get 5-8 flushes from a little mono.
T his is the second flush from a good clone clone culture
This is the exact same box as above, recased, but on flush #8. The curl is almost gone. This is how they are usually found in the wild, because fruiting spots last years.

Quick edit: Caerulescens has a similar process where the later flushes lose their cap curl. I don't have enough experience with Zaps to say if this concept holds true for them too.
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Edited by mycorry (12/12/20 12:12 PM)
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Re: Official P. Subtropicales/Semperviva Thread [Re: Yeetusdeetus] 1
#27085613 - 12/12/20 12:02 PM (3 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
Yeetusdeetus said: Have you seen any noticeable changes in potency between subsequent flushes? I wonder if the substrate already being precolonized affects whether spores will germinate more/less readily
I have not tried any sort of potency breakdown in relation to flush number.
If I had to make a wild guess I would say that the later flushes are likely to be more potent because the mushrooms of later flushes tend to grow more slowly. Once again, that's just a shot in the dark.
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Quote:
smalltalk_canceled said:



Look'n great!
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Quote:
smalltalk_canceled said: Print secondo picture shrooms noaw?
They flipped their teeth
Are they mature now:


The darker the gills the more likely they are to make good prints.
As far as optimum harvest times: I don't know. I usually wait until the lower stipe turns a few shades of brown but your guess is as good as mine. Would love to see some bioassay tests of a good isolate harvested at different times.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Tweeq]
#27183117 - 02/02/21 03:26 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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This thread is looking great!
Remember, If you are having trouble with this species your two big options are:
#1. Inoc several plates, then pick the 4 most unique looking types of myc, label them (A,B,C,D etc...) and fruit them individually.
#2. Noc up some plates and let them sit until they pin. Clone the pins and fruit the culture.
My favorite strategy is to do both at the same time. After all the work is done you should end up with a few vigorous clones that are all slightly varied in performance. With these several clone cultures in hand you can begin throwing them at all types of FC to see what your personal favorite style of cultivating them is.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal] 1
#27184529 - 02/03/21 01:04 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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coAsTal said: Bag on 1/20:

Bag on 2/1:

GREAT JOB! In a bag too?! 
You are really kicking ass with these. You have made a lot of progress over the last 6 months or so.
I love how this species so politely moves out of the way of other caps once they are fully matured.
What FC type are you using? What's your FAE like?
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal] 1
#27186633 - 02/04/21 04:03 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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coAsTal said: Thanks guys-- mycorry this flush I credit to you, because it happened immediately after I stripped off the original casing and water-soaked it for a few hours as you advised me to try. It exploded after that, eclipsing 2 months of stalled growth in less than 2 weeks. There are dozens of side fruits not pictured as well-- as many as are on the casing. I feel very happy about it.
I don't know if it was the re-hydration of the sub soak or the addition of the re-casing, but I'm really thrilled with the results 

It was likely the stripping of pins that was the main catalyst, but the soak really doubles down on the trigger to start a new flush effort. In my experience, the species in section cordisporae make a big effort at finishing a flush before starting another instead of continually flushing like some species do. If a cultivator makes a mistake, such as lets the fruit get too dry, the mushrooms will eek along until all the biological momentum is out of that damaged flush's sails. I've always found it best to just admit I made a mistake, pluck all the pins, patch the casing and retry(sometimes re-soak). I just did this with a caerulescens flush that I accidentally wind burned with a handheld fan.
Did you collect some clones?
Quote:
Ambrose said: Growing these in a shoebox the fruits are surprisingly more aestetically pleasing to me than in the greenhouse. Caps are more bell shaped, whereas in the gh they curled up immediately. Spore production and cap size do not seem to be negatively impacted which also surprised me:

Vs

If conditions are to blame(which I think they are,) I'm not sure what factor is causing it: lower FAE, lower moisture content and or lower light?
Unlike with Tamps I dont see any point in using a greenhouse with these when a simple monotub or shoebox is good enough or even better
Great job! Those do look pretty cool with the conical caps. The shoebox grow looks like it could use more FAE but it's hard to say. The lower picture looks like they are getting a lot of FAE or the substrate has a little too much water, neither of which are a big deal. It looks like you should take some clones and try a shot at whatever adjustments you feel would be best.
I agree about the martha comment. This species doesn't seem to like them very much and subtrops are easy to grow in most FC's anyways.
Edited by mycorry (02/04/21 04:12 PM)
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mycorry
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal]
#27186913 - 02/04/21 06:31 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
coAsTal said:
I've seen several good growers give up on a stalled sub and trash it-- what would have happened if they'd tried this first?
This is why it's so important to be running parallel experiments at the same time. I found out about that trick because I had multiple clone tubs stall simultaneously, so I tried different things with each stalled tub. The results of that tearful failure led me to understand more about this species behavior. If failure couldn't be fashioned into a weapon I'd never get anywhere.
Quote:
coAsTal said: re: my FC, it's a CaptainFuture design based tall bin with two holes cut out and micropore taped on each end down low, with nothing drilled/cut-- just the airgap up top (closed and latched). Like this one but clear:
 I spray the walls daily or so, but don't do anything else air wise. Every other day or so I'll spray the casing and fruits a little too.
His "greenhouse" type FC is powerful if you live in an area with enough average humidity. I had to switch to another type due to the dryness here. Do you have a fan running in the room or an exhaust fan? How big are the holes? Does the Tubs lid make a decent seal?(not a complete seal like a ziplock, but good enough to prevent FAE)
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal]
#27189834 - 02/06/21 02:22 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
coAsTal said: Here's my FC: (that's the white/blue aquarium light inside the lid on top)

and the bag from the top today:

Looks very close to how the current iteration of my setup works. Is the lid on right side up or upside down? With my setup the lids don't quite fit flush to the top so the humid air escapes the top then fresh air comes in to replace it. It's the main reason why so many flushes of mine end up too tall and not quite fully matured.
I'm currently experimenting with Pasty ez dial tek with some tubs that seal on the top, but I wont have results for a month or so.
Have you tried Caeru or zaps with that setup? I imagine you would have a decent amount of success.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Ambrose]
#27199561 - 02/11/21 03:11 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Ambrose said:
Also one thing that sucks about having these in fruiting for so long is the possibility of fungus gnats, first time I’ve seen these fuckers in awhile but they’re all up in the casing, ugh.
It's a never ending problem. Make a habit of putting those yellow gnat sticky traps in every tub, I usually stick on on one of the walls. Also, try to pinch-squish(don't press against the casing) the ones you see when spray/fanning daily. Blow on the casing to see where they are, otherwise they can be exceptionally hard to see.
If you find that a substrate has a constant cloud of gnats then it was probably over watered for too long and the gnats are eating the drowning mycelium.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal] 1
#27199995 - 02/11/21 06:44 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
coAsTal said:
 

 Oh man, I haven't seen a clean cloning in a while!
Looks good!
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Tweeq]
#27201262 - 02/12/21 10:26 AM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Tweeq said: Do you guys wait with casing untill 100 pct colonized? I have three trays of these colonizing rn @ room temp. Peeked into ibe last night and it looks like it can go for a bit longer before case and fruit. They are now six days from spawn.
I'll update with pics
With subtrops, my main failures have come from casing before colonization has finished. I don't know why but that's the pattern I have seen. However, this phenomena could just be caused by cultural practices so don't think that "Casing early=bad" as set in stone.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Nichrome] 1
#27201699 - 02/12/21 01:33 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Nichrome said: Got a bunch of nice different sectors running away from each other. You guys looking for the fluffy stuff or the aggressive running type stuff with these?
Good question. 
There hasn't really been a consensus on what the most ideal myc looks like, even with regards to myc growth speed. I would suggest taking the two or three most unique looking/performing myc and fruit them separately to find out. Then, come show us what you figured out.
This may be a fairly common species for an exotic, but there is still a lot of demystifying to do.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal] 1
#27201724 - 02/12/21 01:47 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
coAsTal said:
Thank you mycorry-- it's my first clone-- hoping for beginners luck
Good luck! 
Keep in mind that there isn't yet a consensus on what is the best way to clone subtrops, or how best to select them. That is for all of us to figure out together.
So far I have had decent luck with: Dish pins First fruiting clusters odd looking but vigerous fruit Anything that grew well in my specific environment Something that killed and ate a mold before fruiting(this is always a fun one)
I usually clone from inside the bottom of the stipe, near the casing. This is due to an old quote from RR about the bottom of the stipe being where most of the growth is happening(for cubes). I do this to try to capture the momentum, so to speak. Does it make a difference? I don't know yet. I have tried cap cloning caerulescens and zaps with decent results, but not a subtrop.
Basically what I am trying to say to everyone is: Write down all the details about what you do(with photos if possible) and post your results here to add to the knowledge we are building. We need more info.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Tweeq]
#27207324 - 02/15/21 12:17 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Tweeq said: Well I cased all three trays today (top layered is more accurate)

After casing, in fc: 
I just cased 6 tubs the same day as you with several different clone cultures. I'm doing Pasty EZ dial mono style with peat/verm casing. The myc has been colonizing the substrate for three weeks and it looked like it had finished five or so days ago. It's my first time using this tub style and my first time using grain in a while. I'm hoping to keep these alive long enough to potentially side by side.
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: Ambrose]
#27213700 - 02/18/21 07:28 PM (2 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
Ambrose said:

Dunked tray that's been kept in a pasty ez dial mono
Great job, as usual
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Re: Official P. Subtropicalis/Semperviva Thread [Re: coAsTal]
#27222619 - 02/23/21 06:30 PM (2 years, 10 months ago) |
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Quote:
coAsTal said: 2nd flush smaller in size than the first-- but looking OK

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