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Hobbit GDF
Deadhead



Registered: 02/14/19
Posts: 3,385
Loc: Terrapin station
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Ok for the winter?
#27021627 - 11/04/20 02:46 PM (3 years, 2 months ago) |
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Hey guys it's me. I've managed to keep these alive and gain more. So I never have really done cactus research. A little. So it got down to 28ยฐf the night I brought them in. I'm using this sunblaze . 94w The tubes 2ft T5's 3 are red 1 is blue. All 24w each.
 What hours should it be on? Are them colors ok? I have one red left. No blues to put in, but could order.
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SingularFusion


Registered: 10/31/18
Posts: 1,208
Last seen: 9 hours, 49 minutes
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Hey Hobbit
Nice looking cacti
I wonder about these questions myself, so I just chime in so I will be notified when somebody answers
all the best
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Hobbit GDF
Deadhead



Registered: 02/14/19
Posts: 3,385
Loc: Terrapin station
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Yeah, I cant believe no one has. It's good so far. I'm not supposed to water all winter also, correct?
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World Seed Supply
Seed Man


Registered: 11/12/09
Posts: 2,154
Loc: New York, USA
Last seen: 5 days, 18 hours
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Re: Ok for the winter? [Re: Hobbit GDF] 1
#27031206 - 11/10/20 08:13 AM (3 years, 2 months ago) |
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You may want to let them go dormant for the winter. The problem is that if you do not match the light of the sun, you may get some etiolation (thinner growth). The thinner ones may fair better than the thicker ones, but that's not a ton of light. Youc an see how it goes and always put them dormant if you see them growing lighter color and thinner. On the other hand, when switching back to active growth, it is always a pain in the butt to prevent them from scarring. And if you don;t get them totally dormant, they will stretch anyway. If you have a cold basement of sorts, that would work well for dormancy.
If they're in dormancy, then you do not need to water. It can cause rot more easily. I also recommend letting them dry out in a covered area for a few weeks before you try to bring them indoors. It is past that point for you now. But just as a way to remove any residual moisture in the soil, I like to let them dry out in advance.
If you have them under lights, then you can water. But the key is that watering should be in proportion with temperature and light intensity. The two things that can cause etiolation are less light and extra water. It may look like they're growing fast, but that causes less structural integrity. And temperature and light both affect water needs. So if you're reducing temperature or light, you should reduce water. And if it gets to the point of dormancy, you can totally eliminate it.
One other factor is that the larger cacti can go longer without water. If it is a small seedling, then you might as well keep it in active growth and water. As they get bigger, they can easily go months or even up to a year without water. You'll be able to see it sucking in if it is getting dry.
I think there;s a lot of advice out there, but really the key is that the answers are relative.
And one more thing... you can always make cuttings at the thing points if you experience etiolation.
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SingularFusion


Registered: 10/31/18
Posts: 1,208
Last seen: 9 hours, 49 minutes
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thanks WSS
answered a bunch of my potential questions, saved me some digging in the search engine
much appreciated
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POWAtrippin
Decidedly Undecided.



Registered: 10/22/08
Posts: 2,207
Loc: zone 9b
Last seen: 1 month, 19 days
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If it were my monkies, and my circus...
I wouldn't care about the color of light all that much, just make sure they are getting fairly bright light.
I wouldn't water all winter, they look plenty hydrated.
Winter time for cacti is about getting them a little dehydrated so if they do freeze they don't turn to mush, and stalling them out with low temps. Lighting at this point isn't really as much about energy generation as it is just keeping em regular.
Getting them into winter mode is the easy part. How much and when to water, and how much direct sunlight when putting them back out is harder to learn.
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