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meowjinx
Stranger

Registered: 05/20/19
Posts: 492
Last seen: 1 year, 6 months
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Quote:
redshadow said: @ sporecap. Yes ive run a few tests and the plastic stays hard i think they are pretty good lids. i ran them for a solid 3 hours no prob/ they do say not to use them in a PC but they are made of plastic # 5 (polypropylene) has a melting point of 320F and i believe the PC doesn't get much hotter than 280F
i first discovered these on a myco shop. (link below)
https://mycosupply.com/product/plastic-canning-jar-lids/
i first purchased these white lids(link below), not knowing they were not for canning and ended up looking for a buying the gray lids. but there is a good LC lid tek on here that i came across after buying the gray lids and see that the ones i originally bought would have probably work. the white lids are a much softer plastic and i actually like the gray ones better. even tho the gray ones are leak proof i decided to get the silicone rings to make a better seal.
im waiting on some teflon tubing and will be making some GE filters with. Ill post once i have a finished product.
Softer white lids https://www.amazon.com/Ball-Wide-Mouth-Plastic-Storage-8-Count/dp/B000SSN3L2
Silicone Seal/Gasket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TSQ9DZ1/?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=theshro-20
Dope LC lid tek https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26800865/fpart/1/vc/1
@ PBJ710
How do you melt the filter disc to the lids? that sounds pretty awesome. what material are the discs you use made from?
I'm using the gray ones with basically that exact LC lid design right now. They seem to be working well

I do have silicone rings on hand, but didn't bother using them for these LCs. I don't actually plan to use the SHIP very often, I'd rather just carefully crack open lid to aspirate the LC, and the silicone rings could complicate opening the lid
Even without the silicone ring, I've swirled the LC quite vigorously and haven't had any leaks. This was before I added the water. I'm using PastyWhite's EzLC tek
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verum subsequentis
seeker of truth



Registered: 03/22/16
Posts: 8,732
Last seen: 1 year, 8 months
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Re: plastic lids [Re: meowjinx]
#26974691 - 10/07/20 11:40 PM (3 years, 4 months ago) |
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I have both the cheap mainstay type and the leakproof ones. I wrap both in glad like a petri and use them for grain and LC. The white mainstay ones have to be cooked a quarter turn loose or they'll warp. The leakproof do fine (so far) if cooked tight.
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PBJ710
Strangler


Registered: 07/05/19
Posts: 2,623
Last seen: 1 month, 6 days
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Quote:
redshadow said:
@ PBJ710
How do you melt the filter disc to the lids? that sounds pretty awesome. what material are the discs you use made from?
You actually just melt the lid and just stick the SFD in the molten plastic 
I drill a 3/8" hole then use a propane torch. I heat the backside of the lid for about a half second to warm the plastic, then the top side of the lid for about 1 second (moving torch in a circle around the hole) to make it liquid enough. Immediately after heating it, drop the SFD in place over the hole, flip it over on the worksurface and use 1/2" deep socket to apply mild pressure to the back of the lid which will imbed the SFD in the surface. If the hole deforms much at all during heating, it's too hot.
You won't be able to pull them off after they are on, so there is that downside to deal with...
I believe they are PTFE SFDs...they came from a mush vendor.
Edited by PBJ710 (10/08/20 12:25 AM)
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Forgotten Oak
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Registered: 11/09/19
Posts: 32
Last seen: 3 years, 12 days
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Did the RTV remain well-stuck to the lids after the PC cycle?
I discovered after getting the bright idea to put a polycarbonate (Lexan) window in my SAB (due to a distortion right between the arm holes that I got tired of looking around), that polypropylene has "low surface energy" and therefore, nothing wants to stick to it.
Of course, I only learned this after cutting out the side of my SAB, rouging up the perimeter of the cutout, and installing the Lexan with pure silicon caulk. After it cured, I was quite thrilled with the new crystal clear window in my SAB. Only to have it pop loose while cleaning it up. After much research that should have been done before any cutting, I learned about the low surface energy of PP and the fact that hardly anything will bond with it.
I eventually found this Loctite product that is specifically made to glue to polypropylene and polyethylene, and it did work to attach the Lexan window to my SAB. However, it is essentially just a primer that preps the surface, and cyanoacrylate glue, so it is a very thin gel - almost like water. So it probably wouldn't work well for gluing the filters to the lids. The filter might soak it up, and it definitely wouldn't fill the gaps where the brand name is embossed into the lid. Although, if you moved it off to one side where the lid was smooth...
But if you need to attach anything solid to polypropylene, I can attest that it does work like a charm, and that they aren't kidding when they say it bonds in seconds. You get about 2 seconds to make any adjustments once the two surfaces touch, then they are stuck. You could still pry them apart at that point, but the glue will be ruined and you'll have to sand it off and start over. I'm not sure how the bond would hold up to a PC though, and my SAB won't fit in my PC, so I can't test it!
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redshadow
Yaddia Holla?


Registered: 09/28/04
Posts: 282
Loc: Zeta Reticuli
Last seen: 2 years, 10 months
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-------------------- =<{: Its only when you've lost everything that your free to do anything....... :}>=
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redshadow
Yaddia Holla?


Registered: 09/28/04
Posts: 282
Loc: Zeta Reticuli
Last seen: 2 years, 10 months
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Hey Guys,
just wanted to update this thread with some good new info. I cam across this stuff while working on another project and realized after working with it and reading its specs this is the stuff to use when making lids.
its called Flex Seal Paste, its a type of rubber glue. Its insanely sticky, sticks very well to PP plastic (polypropylene) without any sanding and of course with sanding it grabs on like no tomorrow. It scrapes off like silicone so you can replace items on the lid and reuse you lids and can handle high temps and pressure. Its also quite thick and in my opinion much easier to work with than silicone and its much difference in price, well worth it in terms of the advantages in saving me time and effort and fucked up lids\jars.
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Paste-Jar-White/dp/B084TDJLKT/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=flex+paste+seal&qid=1616708752&sr=8-1
-------------------- =<{: Its only when you've lost everything that your free to do anything....... :}>=
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PieHole

Registered: 02/03/21
Posts: 8
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J-B Weld 8277 WaterWeld Epoxy Putty
WaterWeld can withstand continuous temperatures of 300F/149C and intermittent temperatures of 350°F/177°C. Wouldn't be good to inhale expoxy fumes past 200c or damage ypur pc.
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J-B Weld 37901 ExtremeHeat High Temperature Resistant Metallic Paste
Isn't this a repair kit on iron and steel? Lids are usually tin\brass and I assume its just like solder paste where it'll take its form at a certain temperature depending on the size. If leaked onto your aluminum pc canner it would be corrosive. --------
Flex paste 10psi which would be around 239F, I'm sure it could go further but at what point does it start getting in the air you breath? Flex I'm really interested in, how many times are you able to reuse it before you see it degrade\smell?
https://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/flex-paste/ Q: In what temperatures can I apply Flex Paste? A: Flex Paste can be applied in a wide range of temperatures from 0°F – 150ۜ°F. Once applied and fully cured it can withstand a wider range of temperatures from -40°F – 200°F.
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