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Offlinechowyunfat
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Registered: 01/23/20
Posts: 85
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Breaking down spawn for monotub
    #26867911 - 08/07/20 08:53 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Sterile environment and everything is a must thorough the whole process, so I am a bit confused about this next step...

I stick with these along some others
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17447797/fpart/1/vc/1
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/10884256
but some info is missing, or is already obvious for experienced growers..

1. My basic question is about breaking my beautiful milky white colonized oat spawn from jars to substrate...  How? Isn't it dangerous, I mean, doing it just like that? What about contamination? People have contamination in bulk grows all the time, it's not that point of being careful about everything is long gone? Gloves are enough?

I just take it out and break it with my hands in gloves, layering it with substrate? Also, what is the point of hitting jars to bicycle tire? It wont go out if not done?


2. I want to minimize messing with the tubs. What is the thing about closing the holes with duct tape, turning the lid upside down etc...? Faster colonization time? ok, but...  If I mess with closing the holes, then opening it later, bla, - again, wouldn't I contaminate the stuff badly that way? I don't mind it colonizing and growing at slower rate if I will prevent contamination that way... What about going with fully setup tubs from the start?

THANKSss


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Offlinemingot
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Registered: 06/01/20
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Last seen: 3 years, 2 months
Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: chowyunfat]
    #26867975 - 08/07/20 09:30 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

I can answer #1 -- once your spawn is fully colonized it is very resistant to contamination and the sub you are mixing it with is non-nutritive, so there is really nothing very susceptible to contaminate.

Bike tire could help you break up tough spawn without breaking the jar and save you the pain of hitting your hand on the jar.


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InvisibleRoger Clemency
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Registered: 03/23/20
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: mingot]
    #26867999 - 08/07/20 09:44 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Both of those threads are pretty old, though both do know how to grow. I didn’t read them through but saw mention of spores to grain, skipping the foundational step of agar, and incubation in a TiT which isn’t necessary unless you have a real cold house.

But like said above (and in frank horrigans thread ; ) once your spawn is colonized it can protect itself as long as it’s clean. When it comes to bulk sub coco coir is the bees knees for cubes because it can be prepped any which way and will not contaminate unless your spawn was dirty. If you use manure or any strange additives I see people using then you have to properly pasteurize the bulk sub before spawning. Proper pasteurization is between like 140-160f for an hour. If you go over in temp or for too long you start to partially sterilize and that’s Trich territory.

I’ve seen sterilized manure work, and another member Camera I think is also doing that right now. I think full blown sterilization is required though. If you only partially sterilize while trying to pasteurize it goes bad. I’ve done it :smile:

Sometimes I get to ranting on, not trying to confuse you with a wall of text just know that clean colonized spawn is good to go in open air, once you spawn a tub you can open it and whatever else you want as long as you keep conditions good

And don’t worry about taping holes or keeping tubs in the dark. You can go straight to fruiting conditions on the day you spawn.


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OnlineNichrome
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Registered: 12/17/18
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: Roger Clemency]
    #26868012 - 08/07/20 09:54 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Healthy vigorous spawn is very hard to kill.


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Freedom is not the right to do as you please, but the liberty to do as you should. ~Emerson


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OfflineThe Ole Airstream
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Registered: 07/01/20
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: Nichrome]
    #26868069 - 08/07/20 10:23 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

I use pasteurized horse poop, I can get the poop right down the road for free, mix in some verm, gypsum, and get it farm ready. Pasteurized for one hour. I put the cleaned tubs, poop, and jars in my fruiting room. I run my air exchange through the hepa filter for an hour or two. I clean myself up, use alcohol to clean my gloves and the top of the jars. I put a layer of poop on the bottom of the bin, break up the spawn and spread it on the layer of poop, take half a bag of poop one more jar of spawn, and cover with the rest of the bag of poop. the total thickness is three to four inches deep. Cover 4 of the holes in the tub with tape, and 4 of the holes with polyfill the 2 ends and 2 on the sides, to allow a little air circulation to prevent cobweb mold, put the lids on and cover with black plastic, and let it colonize while the other bins are fruiting in the back of the trailer under light. I only make it 3 or 4 inches deep so I get two good flushes before the contamination then I through it on the garden. It’s a fine line to have everything ready to the rotation going but is working for me...


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OfflineNewbieS
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: chowyunfat]
    #26868087 - 08/07/20 10:31 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

As others have stated, once you have fully colonized jars they're really resistant to contams.  Especially when you do a bulk pasteurization prior to spawn. Coir Tek  I haven't used gloves in years; just clean hands and a clean work area.

I close the holes and line my tub with the contractor bags, although new info suggests it doesn't need a recolonizing period; it'll fruit when it's ready.  I prefer to line my tub and cover the holes because it makes it easier for me to trim the liner down when it's ready to fruit.  I just take an x-acto knife and trim right at substrate level then pop in the polyfill and open when it's ready to harvest.


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Offlinechowyunfat
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Registered: 01/23/20
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: Roger Clemency]
    #26868294 - 08/07/20 12:44 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

aah, thanks for the input folks...
so, where contamination in the tub comes from then? basically unpasteurized substrate? that's the only thing I need to worry about?
I am going with coco coir (regular, not in bricks) and verm...

Quote:

Roger Clemency said:

And don’t worry about taping holes or keeping tubs in the dark. You can go straight to fruiting conditions on the day you spawn.



You say just to set up tub  and leave it? Room light/temperature, that's enough?


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InvisibleRoger Clemency
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: chowyunfat]
    #26868325 - 08/07/20 01:04 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Most of the time contamination comes from dirty grain spawn. You can have bacteria in your grain without it smelling or looking gross, sometimes it just looks slightly off. You can also have thin and weak mold in a jar without realizing it if you don’t look close enough and don’t catch the smell while spawning.

Yeah mix your spawn and save enough bulk sub to put about 1/4” top layer on just to give a nice microclimate and help hold in moisture, then leave it sitting where it gets light and a little fresh air.

With shoe boxes I just leave the lid unlatched, with a mono you’d put in your polyfil or Micropore tape whatever you’re using and then wait. If your subs at proper field capacity you shouldn’t have to mist until around the first flush, at least that’s how it is for me in a fairly humid area.


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Sour grapes, sweet revenge
Heaven starts right where hell ends


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Offlinechowyunfat
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Registered: 01/23/20
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: Roger Clemency]
    #26868373 - 08/07/20 01:26 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

Roger Clemency said:
Most of the time contamination comes from dirty grain spawn. You can have bacteria in your grain without it smelling or looking gross, sometimes it just looks slightly off. You can also have thin and weak mold in a jar without realizing it if you don’t look close enough and don’t catch the smell while spawning.

Yeah mix your spawn and save enough bulk sub to put about 1/4” top layer on just to give a nice microclimate and help hold in moisture, then leave it sitting where it gets light and a little fresh air.

With shoe boxes I just leave the lid unlatched, with a mono you’d put in your polyfil or Micropore tape whatever you’re using and then wait. If your subs at proper field capacity you shouldn’t have to mist until around the first flush, at least that’s how it is for me in a fairly humid area.



thanks mate!

when I am layering substrate and spawn, is misting necessary, or there is enough humidity in substrate since it was soaked when pasteurized?
I have some digital hygrometer with probe wohoo :smile:


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InvisibleRoger Clemency
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Re: Breaking down spawn for monotub [Re: chowyunfat]
    #26868436 - 08/07/20 01:53 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

I don’t like layering myself. I’ve only tried it a few times but my tubs colonized slowly and unevenly. A thorough mix is best in my experience.

If you get your sub to the proper moisture level you just mix it up and level it out. There’s a few teks on here with videos or pics of what “field capacity” sub looks like when you squeeze a handful. Just a few drops or up to a little trickle of water from a hard squeeze.

I prep my bulk sub on the drier side, using 650g coir / 200g vermiculite / 11-12 measured out cups of water. Some bricks of coir hold more water than others so sometimes I’ll sprinkle a little water or vermiculite in as I’m mixing it up or making my tubs. Then I put a top layer of the same bulk mixture on top 1/4” thick and mist the shit out of it, 40-50 sprays. That gives you prime conditions up top where you want pins and hopefully less prime conditions along the sides.

I got that idea from this tek -  https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26009662 and it has worked great for a few cycles now. The pics in my gallery of stacked tubs were done this way.


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Sour grapes, sweet revenge
Heaven starts right where hell ends


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