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OfflineAlsetAlokin
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Registered: 07/30/20
Posts: 182
Last seen: 3 years, 19 days
Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: mushpunx]
    #26855496 - 07/31/20 12:49 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

mushpunx said:
Quote:

Camera93 said:
Quote:

mushpunx said:





I get confused around what this is?

On my lids i have a hole with sfd over it, and another hole i put one of those heavy duty rubber SHIPS. I got timid when I went to use it tho, as it seemed to require quite a bit of force to get the needle to pierce thru. I opted for opening the jar and at an angle aspirating to syringe. I really would rather do it with lid on the whole time lol. what does that syringe filter I quoted do? Does it act like my SFD or do you suck up the LC thru that?

an example of my lids:






It's a syringe wheel filter, it has a micron filter inside. They are meant for gong on the end of syringes to pull liquid thru (it will filter out some bacteria, particlulates etc). We don't use them for that though, we repurpose them to use as GE filters.

It's just a GE filter that works very well with LC because it's spill proof. You wouldn't want to get an SFD or polyfil etc soaked with LC.
You don't aspirate through the syringe filter. I just started using these, I open the cap but you can add a rubber SHIP like OP did if you want.

They're only $1.00 or so. For the one I used I just drill a hole with a 5/32 drill bit and pop it thru,no silicone or anything. It's a good lid for LC.




This is exactly what I was looking for and the first time seeing it.
Have you had any problems with them holding up in PC?
Have you experimented with using more than 1, or is just this filter sufficient for GE?


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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: AlsetAlokin]
    #26855600 - 07/31/20 02:03 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

AlsetAlokin said:
Quote:

mushpunx said:
Quote:

Camera93 said:
Quote:

mushpunx said:





I get confused around what this is?

On my lids i have a hole with sfd over it, and another hole i put one of those heavy duty rubber SHIPS. I got timid when I went to use it tho, as it seemed to require quite a bit of force to get the needle to pierce thru. I opted for opening the jar and at an angle aspirating to syringe. I really would rather do it with lid on the whole time lol. what does that syringe filter I quoted do? Does it act like my SFD or do you suck up the LC thru that?

an example of my lids:






It's a syringe wheel filter, it has a micron filter inside. They are meant for gong on the end of syringes to pull liquid thru (it will filter out some bacteria, particlulates etc). We don't use them for that though, we repurpose them to use as GE filters.

It's just a GE filter that works very well with LC because it's spill proof. You wouldn't want to get an SFD or polyfil etc soaked with LC.
You don't aspirate through the syringe filter. I just started using these, I open the cap but you can add a rubber SHIP like OP did if you want.

They're only $1.00 or so. For the one I used I just drill a hole with a 5/32 drill bit and pop it thru,no silicone or anything. It's a good lid for LC.




This is exactly what I was looking for and the first time seeing it.
Have you had any problems with them holding up in PC?
Have you experimented with using more than 1, or is just this filter sufficient for GE?





A couple comments: first you do not need the silicone.  Yes, I tried that, but I did testing with and without it; it's not necessary unless you don't drill the EXACT size hole I specify.  As for 5/32" inches I can tell you that is too small if you use a drill press and purchased the exact filter discs I mention above (others I've gotten did require a smaller 5/32" hole).  For a hand drill there can be considerable wobble, though, which makes the hole maybe 1/64" larger than a drill press. 

I have had ZERO problems with them holding up EXCEPT when I tried using high-temp silicone.  That stuff just got soft and peeled off way to easily (just like every glue I tried did).  Luckily I discovered I didn't need it as long as the hole was drilled the exactly right size. 

I have tried a couple types of filter discs and let me tell you that they ARE NOT all the same, even within the hydrophobic ones.  The ones I recommend are 25mm to 32mm across with filters made of material PTFE.  This is important because I tried filters that used PVDF and they had over twice the airflow resistance if my mouth is to be any guide.  If you get exactly what I specified above, one filter disc is enough.  If you got say PVDF, maybe you need two or three.  It's important to understand what those are for, though: they really aren't for gas exchange in the sense you probably are thinking.  They allow air in when you draw the solution out and when the jar cools and the steam condenses in the jar.  The let air out when the air heats up in the pressure cooker.  As far as day-to-day gas exchange, there is VERY little of that.  In fact maybe there is one exchange from Brownian motion every other day or something.  Whatever it is, it's enough if you use the filter I suggested (0.22um, 32 to 25mm across, hydrophobic and made of PTFE). 

One other thing: if the filter gets wet, it can clog temporarily until it dries out.  If it got wet from the sugar solution, it may need to be replaced because even once dried the sugar residue will block the filter.  You might be able to clean it with an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner or boiling water but it might take several days to dry.  Just remember to never push air or LC back into the jar if the filter disc is under water; you might ruin it if you do that.  And before each pressure cook, gently blow through it to make sure the airflow is fine going both directions.  It's fine to feel some resistance, but it should not be clogged.  If it is totally clogged and you cook it, it might just pop out in the pressure cooker when the jar heats up.


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InvisiblecoAsTal
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: Blue Helix]
    #26855617 - 07/31/20 02:16 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Outstanding-- thanks for the detail!
I remember a method to help stabilize drill bits when precision is needed (at least on a flat plane) that I picked up somewhere long forgotten--  you take a flat 2x4 or 1x4 or whatever wood piece with a pre-drilled vertical hole, and it is placed on the item surface. Then sit it on your surface to be drilled.

This helps to eliminate the "wobble" from open-air drilling since the large part of the bit is inside an existing hole.

I haven't used the method on a jar lid (or plastic) before, but I can't see why it wouldn't work if the plastic is prevented from bowing down as pressure is applied, and/or high speed/low pressure penetration is used.

Look forward to seeing how it works.


--------------------
I am certain of nothing but the holiness of the Heart's affections and the truth of Imagination--  John Keats

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InvisiblecoAsTal
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: coAsTal]
    #26883052 - 08/16/20 09:08 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

:pipesmoke:



--------------------
I am certain of nothing but the holiness of the Heart's affections and the truth of Imagination--  John Keats

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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: coAsTal]
    #26883385 - 08/16/20 12:19 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

coAsTal said:
:pipesmoke:






You got the right one!  It looks perfect.  Now try it and let everyone know how well it works!


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InvisiblecoAsTal
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: Blue Helix]
    #26883715 - 08/16/20 04:48 PM (3 years, 5 months ago)

I will for sure-- should get something made up this-coming week.
:cheers:


--------------------
I am certain of nothing but the holiness of the Heart's affections and the truth of Imagination--  John Keats

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Offlineswungodungo
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Registered: 07/07/20
Posts: 6
Last seen: 1 year, 10 months
Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: coAsTal]
    #26890993 - 08/21/20 01:04 AM (3 years, 5 months ago)

Thanks for making this thread! Lots of great info here.


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Offlinesenescence
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Registered: 09/02/19
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Last seen: 3 years, 4 months
Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: swungodungo]
    #26921612 - 09/06/20 05:25 PM (3 years, 4 months ago)

How do you determine proper syringe filter specs? The original ad in the link is gone. I was planning on using my blunt tip 14G needles for this, what filter specs would work with that?


Anyway thanks for the tek! I also want to mention I copied your LC to bulk tek (using sterilize bags of grains and coir) and it's coming along very nicely. I just poured straight from a quart jar full of LC into the bags; pretty surprised there haven't been any contams yet.


Edited by senescence (09/06/20 05:29 PM)


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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: senescence] * 2
    #26969652 - 10/04/20 06:47 PM (3 years, 3 months ago)

Hi, I wanted to update this post with respect to the silicone gaskets.  I no longer recommend the ones I did in this post that stay on the jar. While they are advertised to not fall in the jar--and they don't--it's highly annoying have them stay on the jar when trying to inoculate the jar.  It's all too easy to knock them into the jar.  Basically they do the opposite of what they should in this context.

I have changed the link to these better (and far less expensive) gaskets.  The reason I like them is that (a) they are far cheaper but just as good and (b) they stick (albeit weakly) in the plastic lid when you take it off.  This allows the cultivator full access to the jar's top without an annoying silicone seal in the way, and you don't expose the seal to as much outside air.


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Offlinemaniac1886
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Registered: 10/05/11
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Loc: United States
Last seen: 2 days, 6 hours
Re: Making LC cultivation lids - how and where to get the parts [Re: Blue Helix]
    #26969703 - 10/04/20 07:18 PM (3 years, 3 months ago)

Ive been kicking around the idea of making some of these.  I use baby jars right now.  Gets the job done, but these look much more efficient!


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