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Invisibleflameclown
totality is amust
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Registered: 04/04/04
Posts: 956
questions on blue oyster *DELETED*
    #2663915 - 05/11/04 05:42 PM (13 years, 3 months ago)

Post deleted by flameclown

Reason for deletion: [this post is damn old]



--------------------
You're right. I should make MY living dancing around like a mongoloid on a bad acid-trip for a bunch of spoiled little dickheads. - Vulgar




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InvisibleMycoFactory
Mr MycoBag

Registered: 04/02/03
Posts: 549
Loc: NC, USA
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: flameclown]
    #2664913 - 05/11/04 09:03 PM (13 years, 3 months ago)

www.sporeworks.com sells culture syringes and kits for Pleurotus columbinus, the blue oyster.
At www.mycobag.com we sell a kit for Pleurotus columbinus, the blue oyster as well.
They are very easy to grow.
Directions are available on both sites.

Here is a link to a post of our kit in action by doc34 He has some good pictures of the progress and results of his kit.

Here is a copy and paste from www.mycobag.com in our mycokit area

Quote:

Directions for use:

Upon arrival, inspect your Bag(s) for punctures or tears, if any are noticeable, contact us to arrange for a replacement to be shipped. Unfold the Bag, allowing the extra material to stand straight up.

Locate the small foam disk sealed and attached in a plastic housing near the base of the Bag. This disc is the self-healing injector site. Note: The disc will be covered by a small plastic shield. Do not attempt to remove the plastic covering the disc, you will inject through it. Sterilize a small section of the outside of the Bag (on the plastic shield) directly over the foam disc with an alcohol soaked wipe. With the same alcohol soaked wipe, sterilize the needle on your culture syringe.

Inoculate the substrate with culture syringe solution by inserting the needle completely through the plastic shield and foam disc at the previously sterilized spot. Squirt 1-3cc of solution directly into the substrate material .

DO NOT insert the needle through the white filter patch found near the top of the Bag.

Place the kit's Bag(s) in a dark location and incubate at 70-75F. It is recommend to store the Bag fully extended as developing Mycelia will give off gases that will slowly expand the interior of the Bag.

Note: During drier summer months it is advisable to store the Bag in a humid location. Excessively dry environments may draw moisture from the Bags.

Approximately two weeks from injection you will begin to notice the development of mushroom mycelium or "root network" inside the bag. This ropey, white, mold-like growth will begin to spread throughout the substrate material, consuming available nutrients. Speed of colonization is directly affected by incubation temps, cold temps will slow development, while excessively warm temps may harm the mycelium.

When the bag is completely covered with white mushroom mycelium, it is said to be 100% colonized and ready for fruiting. At this point puncture or cut small "x's" into the sides of the bag at mid-substrate level about two inches apart. The mushrooms will begin to form and grow from these slits or punctures.

Place the punctured bag on a small plate and drape the supplied humidity tent over the bag and plate. Rolling up the sides of the humidity tent will help create a stable base to keep the bag material from flopping over. A wire coat hanger can also be creatively utilized to form a makeshift frame for the humidity tent. Place the covered kit in a location where temperature is a stable 60-70F. Begin light exposure with filtered sunlight or indoor lighting for approximately 12 hours daily.

Mist the interior of the humidity tent with a hand sprayer of distilled or bottled water every day to maintain high humidity. Mist often enough to keep water droplets formed on the inside of the humidity tent. The quarter sized holes in the humidity tent allow for constant fresh air exchange, which is critical for Oyster mushrooms to develop properly. Within several days you will notice the development of small clusters (primordia) forming from the puncture points. The primordia will develop into larger more distinguished fruits over the course of 4-7 days.

Tested and proven, this all you need to begin your journey in the art and science of mushroom cultivation.





MycoBag


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OfflineIfIWereARichMan
journeyman
Registered: 10/27/03
Posts: 84
Last seen: 6 years, 1 month
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: MycoFactory]
    #2665741 - 05/11/04 11:50 PM (13 years, 3 months ago)

Myco, no hate on you or your product, but it might also have been helpful to point the poster to cloning through karo tek or agar to make his own culture or how to take a sporeprint of oysters.


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InvisibleMycoFactory
Mr MycoBag

Registered: 04/02/03
Posts: 549
Loc: NC, USA
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: IfIWereARichMan]
    #2665970 - 05/12/04 12:56 AM (13 years, 3 months ago)

oh I guess I could have, I figured being those are listed in the FAQ a search would find the answer.
I don't use the karo so that is for someone else to tell or a FAQ search.

To make your own culture you need a spore print or a culture first.
umm a trade in the marketplace then or from a site sponsor. You should read the FAQ to find out how to work with agar if you want to start a culture from spores.
Also in the FAQ are methods to take a spore print.
If you have a fresh fruitbody a print can be made like most mushrooms by placing it gills side down on paper and covering with a paper towel or bowl. I use the paper towel with oysters. You also want to use a dark paper as the spores are white. I use clear film. Let it sit for several hours or overnight and then you should have a print.

MycoBag


Edited by MycoBag (05/12/04 12:57 AM)


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InvisibleKttail
DragonDreamer
Male

Registered: 09/15/03
Posts: 114
Loc: S. Oregon Coast , USA
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: MycoFactory]
    #2672623 - 05/13/04 10:01 AM (13 years, 3 months ago)

Greetings,
I took some prints of two different types of wild oysters last fall and only had marginal success.
The problem was that there was so much moisture the spores ran and got a piss yellow color from the wetness. How do you get past that using film? Or is it even a problem with the cultivated strains? Are they still good when that happens? I tried it on foil, as I didn't have any dark paper at the time.


--------------------
"Do not meddle,
In the affairs of Dragons.
For thou art crunchy,
and tasty with catsup."


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InvisibleMycoFactory
Mr MycoBag

Registered: 04/02/03
Posts: 549
Loc: NC, USA
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: Kttail]
    #2672921 - 05/13/04 11:39 AM (13 years, 3 months ago)

After I take a print I remove the mushroom and then place a clean dry paper towel over the print, I never use the first one or two on the roll.
** The towel does not contact the print as it is only a protective breathable cover. **
I leave it this way for 24 hours (or longer even) to let all the moisture evaporate. Doing it this way I do not have any residual moisture remaining on the print. I do have air conditioning in the house so the relative humidity is very low. I also work in front of a laminar flow hood.
There are other ways and I am sure there are others here willing to share their method(s) with you.

MycoBag


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Offlinemaxzar100
Stranger
Registered: 09/21/09
Posts: 12
Last seen: 6 years, 9 months
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: flameclown]
    #12266989 - 03/25/10 01:39 AM (7 years, 4 months ago)

sporeworks is a scam dont buy from them


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Invisiblebiologys
Mycologist in Trainning
Male


Folding@home Statistics
Registered: 12/21/09
Posts: 4,622
Re: questions on blue oyster [Re: maxzar100]
    #12267747 - 03/25/10 05:48 AM (7 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

maxzar100 said:
sporeworks is a scam dont buy from them




for one this thread is 5 years old

for two 'sporeworks is a scam' couldn't be anymore bs..


sporeworks is one of the best of the bests very dependable, reliable and will work extra hard to make sure their customers are happy


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