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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Check engine light
    #26388724 - 12/18/19 01:13 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

I got a random cylinder misfire code thebother day. Engine wasnt running on all cylinders. I bought new spark plug wires a new ignition coil pack and all new plugs. I only got one ignition coil so i could replace one, start the car and see if it fixed anything, then move it to the next. You know just to try and pinpoint which cylinder. That didnt work so I got a new ignition module too. I replaced the plugs the wires the module and one coil and lo and behold the problem was fixed! Drove it around and the check enginenlight went off by itself. Now two days later the check engine light comea back on but thw car is running fine....any ideas? Should i maybe replace the rest of the coils?


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
Posts: 26,689
Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26388775 - 12/18/19 01:38 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Sounds like you're pretty randomly changing parts, which is eventually going to solve the problem, but odds are that by that time you'll have spend as much as you'd spend on a replacement car. I'd do a bit more in-depth diagnosis and/or have someone properly diagnose the problem for you. This in itself is already quite tricky and requires some intimate knowledge of how engine control systems work and preferable experience with your particular engine model.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26388966 - 12/18/19 03:19 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Wasnt rabdom at all. Ive had that problem in other vehicles an its always been an ignition coil/ coil pack problem. And my engine is no longer running on too few cylinders so....yeah. Anybody with any kind of real input?


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26388988 - 12/18/19 03:34 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Btw its a 2000 buick lesabre 3.8L v6. Seems to have some other electrical issues. The front right cornering light keeps ahitting the bed like there is a short somewhere. The bulb iant blown but it flashes fast and every now and then will work randomly.


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26389845 - 12/18/19 11:57 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

I've had that problem too and it wasn't an ignition coil, lead or spark plug problem. Can just as well be a faulty camshaft position sensor, engine temp sensor, cam belt slightly out of alignment, vacuum problem, maf/map sensor problem, grounding problem or an ECU issue just to name a few.
Have you read the fault codes after the engine light came on again? What do they tell you? Have you done a data log to monitor some of the more suspect values at different load levels?


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26390162 - 12/19/19 06:33 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

I'm borrowing a code reader today. Should be able to get my hands on a multimeter to check all my connections.  Ive also noticed my car doesn't like to get up to heat so im going to check out the thermostat. Wont have a code reader for abother two hours but I'll update when i do.


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
Posts: 26,689
Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26390178 - 12/19/19 06:46 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Sounds good. The not heating up problem is usually caused by a defective thermostat valve, but also check temperature readings (both air temp and engine temp) when you have the reader. Air temp as reported by the reader should be quite close to actual outside temp. The engine not heating up *may* prevent the engine from going into closed loop operation although that in itself should not result in misfires. It can trigger the warning light through several mechanisms. Go get some data, that'll help nail down the issue or at least exclude some hypotheses.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26390185 - 12/19/19 06:53 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Good shit thanks man I'll be back with more info.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26390370 - 12/19/19 09:41 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

So we realized we never cleared the original code. The p0300 random cylinder misfire. But the new code that came up ia a p0141. It's a heater circuit 1/2 malfunction. As far as I know the 02 senaora in these vehicles have heater elements to keep the 02 sensor warm. In gonna have a look at the wores to make sure everything is grounded right. If everything is good on that end should I replace the 03 sensor? I think the heating element is in the sensor assembly.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26390375 - 12/19/19 09:47 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Side note: does anyone know a good diagnostic app that is compatible with a veepeak brand mini obd2 diagnostic scanner?


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26390439 - 12/19/19 10:29 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Yeah, check the wiring on the O2 sensor; I assume it's the rear-most sensor going by the error code (after the catalytic converter), but for good measure, check both of them. If the wiring and grounding is OK, take the sensor out and measure the DC resistance of the heating element, which should probably be something like a few Ohms (ca. 9, but +/- a few Ohms would be OK). If that checks out, connect the O2 sensor and turn the key so that everything is powered. First measure the voltage over the heater wires of the sensor; this should be 12-14.4V obviously.

Then measure the voltage over the sensor output leads (NOT the heater leads). The sensor, once heated up, should put out something in the range of 0.1-0.9V. If you idle the engine, once it's warmed up, the sensor should start alternating between 0.1 and 0.9V or any values in-between - note that this should be for the front-most sensor before the catalytic converter; the one after the catalytic converter should pretty much settle on one value between 0.1-0.9V. Either of the sensors measuring anything outside the 0.1-0.9V range is suspect and likely needs to be replaced. It'll be easier to measure the sensor values under the bonnet where they run towards the ECU (depending on if you can reach them there; otherwise you may have to get creative and try and measure on a connector somewhere).

Given the error you're getting, it's likely you run aground somewhere in the first half of the walkthrough above and find one of the sensor's heating elements malfunctioning (burned out most likely, measuring infinite resistance or several kOhms).


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
Posts: 26,689
Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26390442 - 12/19/19 10:30 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

Sulfurshelfsean said:
Side note: does anyone know a good diagnostic app that is compatible with a veepeak brand mini obd2 diagnostic scanner?



Not sure if it's compatible with the veepeak (I assume it's a generic bluetooth OBDII thingy?), but I've been using the free version of Torque, which is alright for a free/low cost generic solution.


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OfflinePsychgro
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26422032 - 01/07/20 09:32 PM (4 years, 1 month ago)

I would also recommend Tourque , helped me a bunch


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Psychgro]
    #26422346 - 01/08/20 04:19 AM (4 years, 1 month ago)

He'll yeah I got torque for the reader and its great. I just need mineybto fix my shot lol. Finally got what should be steady work today so hopefully i can get this sensor/heater issue nipped before it fucks my car up.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26475401 - 02/08/20 12:23 PM (4 years, 8 days ago)

So I finally got tonchecking my o2 sensors. The down stream had frayed wires and bother were clogged to hell. My car has 120000 miles on it and these are the stock sensors. So i tossed em got new ones.still throwing the code. Gonna drive ot arpund and see if the codes clear. After that I got advice to see if maybe it has something to do woth the catalytic converter.
New codes are popping as well. Ive got a torque converter solenoid stuck. Looked into it and found that replacing the solenoids in the tranny usually fix it. This seems to be a typical issue on these buicks at this mileage. Got a solenoid kit and opened her up but realized we didnt have time to drop the sub frame and get in there so I have to put it off for a while.

Going to check my fuses as well and harnesses when I can. I figured the grays on the sensor wires had to be it but that's what i get for assuming


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Edited by Sulfurshelfsean (02/08/20 12:55 PM)


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
Posts: 26,689
Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26475460 - 02/08/20 01:06 PM (4 years, 8 days ago)

Which of the previous errors keeps popping up? The p0300 or the p0141?
Btw, neither points towards an issue with the catalytic converter. But if you're curious, check the readouts of both O2 sensors for clues. On a well-running engine, the front O2 sensor should alternate between high and low, whereas the rear sensor should be constant and low (O2 level). If the rear sensor follows the pattern of the front sensor, the catalytic converter is usually dead.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26475473 - 02/08/20 01:12 PM (4 years, 8 days ago)

The 0141. I did a little more reading and am going to check the heater circuit fuse and check the harness the rest of the way down.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26475685 - 02/08/20 03:21 PM (4 years, 8 days ago)

Banknone sensor two seemed to be at a steady zero. I replaced the o2 sensor fuse and it didn't do anything. I'm not very familiar with how to read the charts but i got a plugin for torque to record m readings maybe I'll try and get a video up of what it's showing me...


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Invisiblekoraks
Registered: 06/02/03
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Re: Check engine light [Re: Sulfurshelfsean]
    #26477873 - 02/10/20 01:23 AM (4 years, 6 days ago)

Have you tried measuring the DC voltage on the heater of that sensor? Perhaps it isn't getting any juice. Could be a cabling/connector issue in that case.

With a cold engine I think there should be some higher values than 0, but it depends on how quickly the sensor heats up. Should be before the catalytic converter heats up, I suppose, but not sure if this is true on all vehicles. The catalytic converter is only effective once it's heated up, so it takes maybe 20-30 seconds before it starts doing something; up to that point the engine will run in open loop mode and you should see some variation in the readout on the rear O2 sensor.

A properly working O2 sensor will always read at least 0.1V even if it's the rear sensor and the catalytic converter is working properly. A readout of 0 can be consistent with a sensor heating element malfunction, but could also be a cable issue in the actual signal leads. However, that would most likely not throw a P0141, but rather a different error, or perhaps no error at all.


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OfflineSulfurshelfsean
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Re: Check engine light [Re: koraks]
    #26490295 - 02/17/20 03:29 PM (3 years, 11 months ago)

The o2 sensoe codes cleares after driving it around. The torque converter clutch circuit stuck open code is what im fighting with now. Replaced the solenoids and the code turned off for a day but has come back on.


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