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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Surfing
#26352451 - 11/29/19 05:15 PM (4 years, 1 month ago) |
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Any of yall surf? I've just started surfing here in Hawaii. My dad's been surfing his whole life and we've been going out together and catching them waves. Almost got real fucked up a couple times when the waves were gnaaarly; but for the most part it's fun as hell.
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FungiMaster
Entrepreneur


Registered: 10/31/19
Posts: 998
Loc: Bay Area, CA, USA
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Yah be surfed or boogie borded a bunch. As a kid I lived in Santa Cruz so I actually spent a fair bit f time in the ocean.
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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shoot; i live in socal for a long time; water was too cold for my bitch ass lol; hawaii water is perfect tho; 
cept the ocean tried to smash me to pieces on a cliff of lava rocks a couple times; lol
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Tripsurfer
Bring Back Asante!



Registered: 08/01/12
Posts: 7,129
Loc: West of Windward
Last seen: 3 months, 27 days
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Yeah man been surfing for almost 20 years now
Hawaii eh, so jealous 
Just surfed for a couple hours. Had some decent swell today. Cold though, only a couple degrees C
Full 5mm suit with hood, 5mm boots and 4mm gloves
-------------------- Ach en wee ben ik de klos, met mijn boog schoot ik een albatros... A philosopher is a person who knows less and less about more and more, until he knows nothing about everything.

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geokills
∙∙∙∙☼ º¿° ☼∙∙∙∙


Registered: 05/08/01
Posts: 23,417
Loc: city of angels
Last seen: 7 hours, 2 minutes
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Love surfing. I live inland about 45 minutes from the coast in southern california, so I don't get out all that often... but I enjoy LA's Hermosa/Manhattan Beach breaks, as well as San Ono, San Elijo, and breaks in Carlsbad/Encinitas to the south. Our extended family has a home to the north in Oxnard Shores (Ventura county) that we visit regularly as well, so I've tried my board up and down this coast, as well as on Oahu, Kauai and the Big Island. I did live in Santa Cruz for a couple of years, but that was in college and I unfortunately never got on a board up there!
I'm honestly not very good at it, but I love going out whenever I can. It's a really relaxing experience and usually a great workout too. Bigger than 4-5 foot and I'll probably be sitting out. I have more fun on mellower 2-3 foot days, and am definitely more comfortable on beach breaks than I am on a reef. But I'll be heading out to Maui with the fam in 10 days, so I'm looking forward to finding a spot or to there to try out. Will be spending the first half of the trip right across the hwy from Kamaole Beach Park 3 in Kihei, then moving up to the Kaanapali coast for the later half.
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-------------------- ┼ ··∙ long live the shroomery ∙·· ┼ ...╬π╥ ╥π╬...
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Quote:
Tripsurfer said: Yeah man been surfing for almost 20 years now
Hawaii eh, so jealous 
Just surfed for a couple hours. Had some decent swell today. Cold though, only a couple degrees C
Full 5mm suit with hood, 5mm boots and 4mm gloves
dang bruh you're bad ass. I'm way to much of a pussy to go out in that kind of water. lol Wave here in hawaii are like 10ft for the new couple days, probably will go out tuesday when it gets a bit smaller
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Quote:
geokills said: Love surfing. I live inland about 45 minutes from the coast in southern california, so I don't get out all that often... but I enjoy LA's Hermosa/Manhattan Beach breaks, as well as San Ono, San Elijo, and breaks in Carlsbad/Encinitas to the south. Our extended family has a home to the north in Oxnard Shores (Ventura county) that we visit regularly as well, so I've tried my board up and down this coast, as well as on Oahu, Kauai and the Big Island. I did live in Santa Cruz for a couple of years, but that was in college and I unfortunately never got on a board up there!
I'm honestly not very good at it, but I love going out whenever I can. It's a really relaxing experience and usually a great workout too. Bigger than 4-5 foot and I'll probably be sitting out. I have more fun on mellower 2-3 foot days, and am definitely more comfortable on beach breaks than I am on a reef. But I'll be heading out to Maui with the fam in 10 days, so I'm looking forward to finding a spot or to there to try out. Will be spending the first half of the trip right across the hwy from Kamaole Beach Park 3 in Kihei, then moving up to the Kaanapali coast for the later half.
righteous bro! You should move out here. Big Island Hawaii got mad cheap real estate. I use to live on maui for like 6 years, had a place up on Haleakala and lived in Kihei for a bit too. Check out La Perouse, kinda gnarly cuz the reef but it was one of my uncle's fav spots; plus it's just got a gnarly vibe, some ancient psychedelic energy there. You ever surf Church in SoCal? That was my dad's spot. He always claims he and his buddies owned that place. lol
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FungiMaster
Entrepreneur


Registered: 10/31/19
Posts: 998
Loc: Bay Area, CA, USA
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Man in Santa Cruz I was always in shorts, but it was summer when I swam mostly. But California has many months of summer like weather.
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Tripsurfer
Bring Back Asante!



Registered: 08/01/12
Posts: 7,129
Loc: West of Windward
Last seen: 3 months, 27 days
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Here Im surfing some crappy waves whilst its snowing
-------------------- Ach en wee ben ik de klos, met mijn boog schoot ik een albatros... A philosopher is a person who knows less and less about more and more, until he knows nothing about everything.

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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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bruh you're nuts! lol. you ever trip and surf?
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Tripsurfer
Bring Back Asante!



Registered: 08/01/12
Posts: 7,129
Loc: West of Windward
Last seen: 3 months, 27 days
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Yeah on occasion
Surfed on acid once. That was pretty cool. Small waves though. Couldnt find my way home through the dunes after. At home I couldnt figure out how to put my board in the rack so I sorta jammed it in. Later that night it fell out by itself and busted a rail pretty bad
-------------------- Ach en wee ben ik de klos, met mijn boog schoot ik een albatros... A philosopher is a person who knows less and less about more and more, until he knows nothing about everything.

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JBaker
Stranger

Registered: 11/26/19
Posts: 34
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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powder surfing on a snowboard is way better
-------------------- dark blue balloon, way high up in the sky, and it just can't speed up, being yourself and feeling content is way better than grasping for things that won't ever happen
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Quote:
Tripsurfer said: Yeah on occasion
Surfed on acid once. That was pretty cool. Small waves though. Couldnt find my way home through the dunes after. At home I couldnt figure out how to put my board in the rack so I sorta jammed it in. Later that night it fell out by itself and busted a rail pretty bad 

Shoot i don't know if I got the balls to try it. I might one day though.
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Re: Surfing [Re: JBaker]
#26353867 - 11/30/19 01:18 PM (4 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
JBaker said: powder surfing on a snowboard is way better 
i lived in the mountains to 5 years (ages 13-18) never boarded once... sadly... lots of reasons why.
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JBaker
Stranger

Registered: 11/26/19
Posts: 34
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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boarding on powder is great cuz it feels like floating and lifting the front of the board so u don't sink, one time I got trapped in deep snow and barely made it out of the trap alive...I also haven't boarded for ages now.....I would have to re-learn it, the muscle memory isn't enough
-------------------- dark blue balloon, way high up in the sky, and it just can't speed up, being yourself and feeling content is way better than grasping for things that won't ever happen
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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Re: Surfing [Re: JBaker]
#26353899 - 11/30/19 01:30 PM (4 years, 1 month ago) |
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Shoot. I gotta try it one of these days before I get too old and even lazier. lol
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geokills
∙∙∙∙☼ º¿° ☼∙∙∙∙


Registered: 05/08/01
Posts: 23,417
Loc: city of angels
Last seen: 7 hours, 2 minutes
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Never hit Church, I'm usually in Ventura/LA or down on the other side of the border checkpoint closer to San Diego. I hit San Ono a few times en route if the timing, weather and water works, but generally don't spend much time in Orange County.
Probably wouldn't take much to convince my wife to move to Hawaii, she grows a ton of rare orchids in a greenhouse we setup and Hawaii would be just the spot for the climate she needs (although I suppose importing off-islands plants might be a problem). We also have a 2.5 year old now, and schools in Hawaii seem to leave something to be desired so eh, I suppose we'll be stickin' with the cheap flights outta LA every year or two for shits and giggles. Our setup here in Cali works pretty well for the time being.
La Perouse... I was there a few years ago but just parked our ride and walked through the lava fields to take a look. I'd probably be trippin' about getting on a board there, it's like all lava and no soft sand to speak of. 

Tripsurfer... you got some serious dedication! 5mm suits and surfing in the snow, that's amazing. You're a beast!
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-------------------- ┼ ··∙ long live the shroomery ∙·· ┼ ...╬π╥ ╥π╬...
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dreamachine


Registered: 11/17/19
Posts: 663
Last seen: 4 years, 1 month
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I hear yah. Yeah the public schools here aint so good. But private ones probably are alright. As for la perouse yah its all rocks, same here on the big island, all rocks. but with some booties or the knowing how to walk out you get use to it.
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geokills
∙∙∙∙☼ º¿° ☼∙∙∙∙


Registered: 05/08/01
Posts: 23,417
Loc: city of angels
Last seen: 7 hours, 2 minutes
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I got spoiled on my last big island visit. Elder family opted to put us up at the Mauna Kea (family connection scored a 75% off the stupid expensive regular room rate), with its own little slice of sandy beach bay heaven. Had some fun surfing in there for sure. 
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-------------------- ┼ ··∙ long live the shroomery ∙·· ┼ ...╬π╥ ╥π╬...
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Donger
Stranger
Registered: 05/18/17
Posts: 210
Last seen: 6 months, 11 days
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Yeah surfing is amazing I got to learn in hawaii it took me a while but was worth it. There's nothing like trying to ride out that first wave all the way to the beach
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