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ThUmB pRiNt said:
I bought this 16amp 125vac/10 amp  250vac Radio shack illuminated round rocker switch 275-0028 to energize my FFU but this damn switch doesn’t say how to wire it.

I looked it up on line and I found this

I can’t figure out how to wire this up for 120vac with the led light on when the circuit is closed (when switched on)

Thanks 🙏

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Boogieman47 said:
Take a pic of the actual thing you're trying to wire .. looks like you have the 2 power wires going in then out to the light then piggy backed .. the switch looks like it just plugs into the terminal ??

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Here’s a few pics...



If you notice in all the pics I placed the switch like it is in the diagram with the black boxes screw facing up.

The top pin is 1 and it’s also slightly a different looking metal, the bottom pin is number 2 (under the red wire) and bellow that there is a space under that that has a little slit for another pin except it’s empty and say 3, then there’s the positive and negative that come out of the switch and into the box then from the other side of that box are the 2 inputs

Last night I was tinkering with it and I was able to kind of figure out at the very least that the LED light turned on and off with the switch if you connect one of the white inputs from the box went to incoming power and the second white wire has to go on the common wire and that get the led light to turn on or off what I could not figure out is from where do I take the power from the switch to my FFU’s power converter?

I tried a few different things and couldn’t figure it out... lol

I actually burnt out the led by mistake trying all different kinds of connections.

Maybe it’s just defective...

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JohnRainy said:
From the circuit diagram...

Terminal 1 and terminal 2 does the switching, so the hot from the circuit goes on terminal 1 and the hot for the FFU goes on T2.

The power in/power in must be for the light on the switch.  The hot from the circuit goes on one and the neutral goes on the other.

Must be that.

If you want the switch light only to be on when the FFU is on, you could pigtail from the FFU's hot to one of the power ins instead of pigtailing from the circuit hot.

But it is a slight bit unclear. I dont know what the hell is going on in that pictorial. 

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JohnRainy said:
Doesn't seem they did it that way.  They could have, I guess, but they did not. 

When it comes to commons, I think they often do that with neutrals, less so with hots, and there is only one neutral getting hooked up there, so, nothing to common it to.

Did you try it the way I suggested above?

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Boogieman47 said:
I thought the other picture was the switch itself  ?? The one showing the terminals must be just the light itself ?

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The only lights involved in this project are the led’s those picture are of the switch.

I didn’t post a front pic cuz you guys know what a rocker switch is, spst

But here it is.

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JohnRainy said:
Im not sure what you are referring to. 

There is a pictorial and a circuit diagram in the instructions, and some pics taken by OP.

Im strictly referring to the circuit diagram, as it was an electrical question, and I don't understand what the hell is going on in that pictorial.  It's like there should be third part, a termination block with two terminals.

Maybe you're supposed to connect T1 and T2 with stake-ons.

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sporecap said:
My honest advice: Please get a friend or a professional to help you. These voltages are dangerous and can kill you if you don't know 100% what you are doing.


It seems the diagram shows the 2(?) LED's in the switch, which are powered by an AC/DC converter (square box), driven by a 110V voltage source. The switching seems to be purely done by Terminal 1 and 2, which are connected/broken depending on the position of the switch.
This means the switch can be used to break/close the hot connection of your FFU or any device with less than 2kW power rating, and the white cables need to be connected to a 110V outlet individually.
A good idea would be to get a multimeter and check the internal wiring of the switch before proceeding.

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Edmunter said:

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ThUmB pRiNt said:
I bought this 16amp 125vac/10 amp  250vac Radio shack illuminated round rocker switch 275-0028 to energize my FFU but this damn switch doesn’t say how to wire it.

I looked it up on line and I found this

I can’t figure out how to wire this up for 120vac with the led light on when the circuit is closed (when switched on)

Thanks 🙏

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Ask the guys who sold it to you

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That sounds pretty weird, why would 1 switch need two power sources ?

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JohnRainy said:

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That sounds pretty weird, why would 1 switch need two power sources ?

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He must be referring to the fact that you need two hot wires for your light switch there.  One for the LED and one for the switching terminals. 

They can be from the same circuit.  It's there that they could have made a common, but they did not. 

Since there is no common, that might give you the option of having the switch light come on when the FFU is running, and shut off when the unit is off, since you can connect the LED to the switched power via the FFU's hot.

Im all interested in this thread.  I hope you get it working and tell us what was what there.

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Yes, good point. The switch is designed in a way that the power supply for the LED (white wires) need 110VAC, but you can switch anything with the switch itself, be it 110VAC, 220VAC or DC (as long as its power rating is respected). But a DC current could not be connected to the white wires.
So if your FFU is also running on 110/120VAC, which I guess it is, you can connect the hot to both one of the termial and one of the white cables. The other white goes to neutral, and the other terminal to the hot side of your FFU.
From the diagram it's not clear to me how the LED is switched on or off. Maybe it's supposed to be bright all the time when connected to a power source? Or maybe that was actually your question how to modify the wiring so that the LED only lights up when the FFU is running?