Fungal-Infection said:

I’m just doing something similar with my tubs. I didn’t know this idea was so well researched. Great to find this thread!

I saw a pic of tub a while back somewhere with these hole arrangements and it seemed a better idea than a couple of large holes. Better air flow across the substrate. So I thought I’d give it a try.

Unfortunately, I had a huge issue this year with pesky fungus gnats. They savaged my last grow really badly.
This grow I’ve had to really seal the tubs up with tape during colonisation. I don’t know how they were getting in but they can’t this time.

The intake holes I’ve drilled are evenly spaced along the long sides. The holes are about 1.5cm to 2cm in diameter and are about 3 cm above the substrate level. The exhaust holes are done in the middle of the small sides near the top.

Owing to the fungus gnat problem, I’m going to have to run filters for the holes instead of leaving them open but I was planning to use coffee filters cut into panels and taped in place over the holes.

I’ll not be using polyfill again. I’m pretty sure the gnats found their way into my tubs somehow through the polyfill.

I’m a few days away from the surface of my current grow being colonised enough to introduce FC. I’m looking forward to seeing what this new FAE arrangement does.

I’m yet to get a tub with a full canopy. It’s usually spotty fruiting which I believe has been an FAE issue.

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PsillySeeEms said:

Fungal-Infection said:

I’m just doing something similar with my tubs. I didn’t know this idea was so well researched. Great to find this thread!

I saw a pic of tub a while back somewhere with these hole arrangements and it seemed a better idea than a couple of large holes. Better air flow across the substrate. So I thought I’d give it a try.

Unfortunately, I had a huge issue this year with pesky fungus gnats. They savaged my last grow really badly.
This grow I’ve had to really seal the tubs up with tape during colonisation. I don’t know how they were getting in but they can’t this time.

The intake holes I’ve drilled are evenly spaced along the long sides. The holes are about 1.5cm to 2cm in diameter and are about 3 cm above the substrate level. The exhaust holes are done in the middle of the small sides near the top.

Owing to the fungus gnat problem, I’m going to have to run filters for the holes instead of leaving them open but I was planning to use coffee filters cut into panels and taped in place over the holes.

I’ll not be using polyfill again. I’m pretty sure the gnats found their way into my tubs somehow through the polyfill.

I’m a few days away from the surface of my current grow being colonised enough to introduce FC. I’m looking forward to seeing what this new FAE arrangement does.

I’m yet to get a tub with a full canopy. It’s usually spotty fruiting which I believe has been an FAE issue.

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Good idea about covering the holes with coffee filters, but I think you could go with something even less restrictive, although they would still flow better than MP tape I suppose.

I worry about gnats too. I used to cover small plant pots with panty hose liners.. literally wrapping all the way around the whole pot and stalk with a twisty tie, and it was good enough to keep the flyers from coming in and out, eventually killing the cycle (along with some BTi). I would even stretch sections of the liners that I cut out over large openings on bigger pots, and make sure to put small sections over the drainage holes too. The little bastards will crawl in any little hole if you let them unfortunately. Coco substrate is prime real estate. Little sections of panty hose taped in place would make your EZ dial tubs even more sexy, and gnat proof.

That, or I have another suggestion. They can't really fly that good, and need to crawl in through the small holes, so you could spray some adhesive and put yellow sticky traps or pieces of it over all the holes, and then poke new holes through the sticky trap into the original ones. They will get stuck trying to crawl in that way, maybe. I dunno about this idea so much, because it would be like trying to attract them right to the holes with the yellow color.. Maybe they make a clear version of those traps?

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BeefSupremeJr said:

really doesnt crack? i make my lids and stuff that way but i always melt my tub holes.

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Pasty’s easy dial is my go-to for full sized tubs, prepared exactly as per the tek. But I’ve seen a lot of posts about scaling down the standard issue easy dial, and figured I’d add this here. I’m sure lots of variations have been discussed throughout the thread.

I experimented with hole configurations and found this to work well for the 27qt version of the same purple latch sterilite tub, regardless of whether it’s two separate trays or one substrate. It’s slightly less than 1/2 the volume of the full sized tub, and holes are sized accordingly.

I added middle holes on each long side, but ended up taping over them to “delete” them… I’d recommend leaving these out. If I did these again I’d start with 1/8”-5/32” holes, as opposed to 3/16”, and increase if needed - Holes are easy to widen and hard to undrill.

Nonagon said:

Bustaboo said:

That sounds reasonable. I’ve mainly run shoeboxes, but looking at putting multiple shoeboxes in a larger tub that I’ll probably set up for easy dial.

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The 27qt Sterilite clearview works well as a half scale easy dial. Same hole configuration as Pasty’s tek but with smaller holes. 5/32”-3/16” is about half the area of a 1/4” hole, to suit a tub of about half the size.

Fits two of these 2qt containers perfectly, with no gaps - Each gets a myco quart @ 1:2

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Nonagon said:

Pasty’s easy dial is my go-to for full sized tubs, prepared exactly as per the tek. But I’ve seen a lot of posts about scaling down the standard issue easy dial, and figured I’d add this here. I’m sure lots of variations have been discussed throughout the thread.

I experimented with hole configurations and found this to work well for the 27qt version of the same purple latch sterilite tub, regardless of whether it’s two separate trays or one substrate. It’s slightly less than 1/2 the volume of the full sized tub, and holes are sized accordingly.

I added middle holes on each long side, but ended up taping over them to “delete” them… I’d recommend leaving these out. If I did these again I’d start with 1/8”-5/32” holes, as opposed to 3/16”, and increase if needed - Holes are easy to widen and hard to undrill.

Nonagon said:

Bustaboo said:

That sounds reasonable. I’ve mainly run shoeboxes, but looking at putting multiple shoeboxes in a larger tub that I’ll probably set up for easy dial.

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The 27qt Sterilite clearview works well as a half scale easy dial. Same hole configuration as Pasty’s tek but with smaller holes. 5/32”-3/16” is about half the area of a 1/4” hole, to suit a tub of about half the size.

Fits two of these 2qt containers perfectly, with no gaps - Each gets a myco quart @ 1:2

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incal said:

hey fellas,

oh man i had so many great tubs with this tek.
super grateful. THANK YOU!


but after moving to new location, and meeting winter time with a 25% RH at my location, i'm having real problems making favorable surface conditions. the side of the tubs are well moist and full of condensation, as is the lid of the tub.
however, the substrate it self is drying out almost faster than i can moist it.
the yields are very sad, and i'm not sure if the solution simply is to MP the holes up?
hoping for clues to move forward from this despair

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