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OfflineAsuraS
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Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens * 39
    #25987049 - 05/12/19 01:02 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens

Updated 9/19/2020

This is not a tek. This is all of the information you will need to grow pan cyans. I'll tell you how I do it and hopefully give you the information you need for your
own particular set of circumstances. If you are looking for a simple, step-by-step approach. This is not it.


Acknowledgements
These grows would not be possible without the tireless efforts of mary fairchild and Blue Helix, the undisputed masters of pan cyans, dextr0 (my myco brother from another mother) and all of the
people who contribute on the Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread. Thank you all so much!


TL;DR - Show me some fruits
(in order of appearance: Central Florida, 2nd flush aussie, 2nd flush wild coast, 2nd flush estero, 2nd flush huasteca, 2nd flush aussie, 1st flush aussie, 2nd flush jams, 1st flush jams, 1st flush jams, 3rd flush Aussie, 2nd flush Aussie)


Introduction

I've been working on this write up for several years now (there's been a few revisions). I'm not where I want to be with this species, but I think I'm getting there.
My hope is that more people will become interested in cultivating this species and grow the body of knowledge around it. Everything I learn along the way will
eventually make it to here.

If you like a challenge, these are more challenging to grow than cubensis. I think of cubes as cats and pan cyans as dogs. You do a lot of the
same things with both, but one needs a little more TLC than the other.

As for potency, these will not disappoint.

Quote:

Blue Helix said:
I do not recommend taking over 1 dried gram until you know what you are dealing with. If you take them wet,
you'd better start with no more than about 7 wet grams your first try. Now, I am serious here: these are not
light weight mushrooms like cubensis! Like I said, the batch I grew was at least 4 to 5 times as strong as any
cubensis I have ever grown, and I've grow lots of types on all sorts of stuff. Just be careful with them!




There it is, from the master himself.

I've heard that they are anywhere from 3x to 5x stronger than cubes. All I can say is "yeah they are something" :awesomenod:

Going by my own personal experience, 2g dried is stronger than 3g of APE and 5g of regular cubes. And if you like weird, they get weird.

My record haul from one tray is 31g dry. Doesn't sound like much for 3 quarts of substrate, but when you factor in that it is enough to
give you 31 world class trips or 15 "should I call 911?" type experiences, the math is easy. Gram for gram they blow cubes out of the
water in terms of potency.

Let's go...

Path
spore print -> agar -> LC -> sterilized substrate bags -> two trays -> recovery -> case & fruit -> god mode


Agar
I currently use this method to transfer spores to plates.

My agar recipe with some basic information on phenotype selection. Ideally, you are looking for fast, wispy growth.

It's common among cubensis cultivators to sector plates over and over looking for some rhizomorphic ideal. Throw all such
notions aside here. It's best to use a T1 plate. Maybe T2 if you have identified a fast sector that you want to explore.
I rarely go beyond T1 and never past T2. For MS grows like this I prefer fast cultures with as much genetic variation as
possible. If you are not seeing anything good at T1 you will not find it at T2 (or beyond). It's best to start over.

The key takeaway for pan cyans is momentum. You want to take advantage of it at every stage of the grow.

Liquid Culture

This is my current method for preparing LC. The only thing I do differently for pan cyan is that I typically "tic-tac-toe" a
section of plate into the LC. Anywhere from 3 to 6 wedges. If the LC is not ready in 5-6 days, I will toss it and start over.
The idea here is the same as with plates. You want fast growth.

Direct Inoculation (LC to spawn bags)
This type of grow is done very differently from your typical cubensis grow. There is no grain spawn.
Instead, "supplemental" grain is added to the base substrate, sterilized in spawn bags and then inoculated
with LC.

Substrate
This substrate is based on field-aged, shredded horse manure. I've talked to many people who have
this strange idea we are talking about sacks of horse turds or something. This cannot be further from
the  truth. The stuff we want is very dry and looks like dirt and will already have straw or grass in it
due to the horse's diet.

Depending on your source, you may have to dry it, grind it up and process it yourself. But in the end
you want something that looks like this.



Preparation

All percentages are by weight in grams (g). I calculate the dry ingredients separately because I find it easier..

I also make the assumption that all dry ingredients are in fact, bone dry.

Base substrate is 80% horse manure, 10% straw, 10% vermiculite
Water is added at ~65% of base substrate weight and is calculated as follows: water (g) / water (g) + base substrate (g)
Supplemental grain is added at ~9% of total substrate weight which includes water: grain (g) / grain (g) + base substrate (g)

This recipe makes about 7 quarts of substrate and is enough to fill two trays. I like 3 quart Pyrex trays. I will fill each tray almost
to the top, leaving a little room for casing and I don't care having a little sub left over.

  • Horse manure 675g
  • Milo (rye or millet) 250g - not prepped in any way
  • Vermiculite 100g
  • Straw 75g
  • Water 1600g

This is a very water-heavy substrate. If you have mostly been growing cubes on coir, this might feel like
an excess of water, but don't worry...it's just a feeling :laugh:

This it should give you an idea of what your final sub should look like.


Sterilization

I use 0.2 micron spawn bags (specifically Unicorn 3T 8"X5"X19").  Each bag will receive ~3.5 quarts of substrate.



Use whatever method you prefer for prepping bags. I have done them every which way and my preferred method is to just roll them
up, filter side down.

I always add a square of masking tape about 2" below the filter patch. I will use this area to inoculate the bag later.

PC for 4 hours at 15 psi.

For runs this long, I put three layers of jar lids on the bottom of the PC, then put the canning rack on top of that.
I fill the PC so that the water just comes over the canning rack - it's about 5 quarts.

I usually let the bags sit in the PC overnight. When removed, the bags will be completely voided of air and vacuum
sealed. I seal with an impulse sealer and then hang the bags in a closet using wood clamps. Over the next several hours,
air will be pulled  into the bag through the filter patch. This will provide the mycelium with enough oxygen to colonize
the bags over the next 10 days or so.



Inoculation

Before I inoculate, I like fluff up the sub a bit and then try to get it all as level as possible in the bag.
I'll do another check to make sure everything is sealed properly and that there are no holes. It is important
that bag integrity and the sterile environment has been maintained.

Each bag is inoculated with 60ml of LC and a hot glue gun is used to seal the injection site.

I do not mix up the bag contents in any way at this stage.


Edited by Asura (01/05/21 10:06 PM)


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OfflineAsuraS
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura] * 2
    #25987050 - 05/12/19 01:03 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Colonization

I let the bags colonize for ~10 days (at about 72°F) in a dark closet. I don't know if it's the lack of light,
the still air in the closet or a combination of both, but my bags grow out better this way. Prior to doing this,
I used to just keep the bags on a rack in the kitchen. I would see a lot of metabolite expression. Since moving
to the closet, my growth is stronger and the bags are mostly metabolite free.

12 hours or so after inoculation, I gently mix up the substrate for the first time. At day 5, I will also break
up the bag and gently mix things up again. By day 10, the bags should be ready to be laid to trays. If it is not,
I will toss it.

(future self, add picture here)

Recovery

Bags are broken up, cut open (I use a flaming hot scalpel) and contents are laid out to 3 or 4 quart Pyrex baking trays.
It will come out of the bag a little clumpy. I try to level the substrate as much as possible. Substrate depth is anywhere
from 1.75" to 2".



One thing to note here is that once you lay out the trays, you might not even be able see the mycelium. Don't
worry. As you will see, it grows out really quickly.

This is also a good time for a "sniff" test. Healthy pan substrate will smell like almonds...or maybe almond
extract. Somewhere between the two, but with an earthy smell that is similar yet different from cubensis. It
smells clean in a very obvious way. The first time I ever smelled it, I knew right away that it was healthy.

If you smell anything sweet or not "obviously healthy", toss it all. It's contaminated.

Each tray is covered with foil. I poke a few holes in the foil for gas exchange. The trays go back to the
dark closet where they will recover for ~5 days.

Casing

After the recovery period, it's time to case the trays. Pan cyans needs a proper casing layer that will not readily feed the mycelium.
During fruiting the casing should have rhizomorphic mycelium tunneling through it, to the surface. But it should not be consumed. It's
purpose  is to protect the mycelium, provide a moisture/humidity barrier and transport water.

It truly is a distinct and separate layer, as shown here in this cross section of substrate:

You can see that the casing layer is still in place, roughly 20 days after fruiting and has not been colonized over.

My casing recipe is here.

When applying the casing, you want it as level as possible.

I fill in all of the valleys in the substrate and slowly work it with a clean fork until I have something
reasonably level. At this point the casing is literally millimetres thick. There are cultivators who stop
here. Try it out! I like to run it a little bit thicker, so at this point I add a big pile of casing and
level it with a very clean concrete trowel.

Here I am applying a casing layer to a tray that has been in recovery for 5 days. Compare that to the pic
above and you can see that pan cyans colonizes very rapidly.



After leveling there will still be small divots in parts of the casing. I meticulously fill these in with more casing
using a fork and level by hand.

After casing is complete, I give the trays a good misting (drench it) and put them into the fruiting chamber.

Fruiting (Part 1)

Successful fruiting of pan cyans requires the understanding of these factors: humidity, evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE).

Temperature

Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation
doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle
of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

FAE
This is the easy part. FAE is always on. Sometimes that air is mixed with fog and sometimes it's just air. But there is always
some amount of air going into the FC.

Some growers handle FAE using a repeat cycle timer that simultaneously pulls in fresh air while exhausting the old air.
I prefer the always on model. It's just one less thing to think about.

Humidity & Evaporation

Pan cyans thrive a high humidity environment. However, evaporation is a major pinning trigger (by all observations). And evaporation
cannot occur efficiently if your FC is always near 100% relative humidity (RH).

With this in mind, it's best to think of fruiting in two stages: pre-pin and post-pin.

During pre-pin, it's best to cycle humidity. I will set my humidity controller to a range around 90-98%. This means the fog
will kick on at 90% and will shut off when it hits 98%. While on, moisture is being added and humidity will increase.
While off, humidity drops and evaporation will increase. This on/off cycle takes some amount of time, which is why
some cultivators use a repeat cycle timer in lieu of a controller. Both can work well.

I don't want the environment to be too wet or too dry, so I do regularly adjust the range on my controller based on what
I am seeing. Having an empty tray in the FC can really help with this dialing in. If my tray is bone dry when the cycle
hits 90%, I know I can increase the range to something like 92-98%. If my tray is too wet at the high end, I might adjust
the range to something like 90-97% or 90-96%. I will make whatever adjustments necessary based on what I am seeing with
the empty tray. In my current grow, for instance, I have the range set to 92-97%. These adjustments were made over the
course of the first three days of fruiting.

Post-pin is easier to manage. Once, pinning has occurred the substrate will continue to put out flush after flush. I don't
worry about the humidity cycling once the initial pinning has occurred. After the pins start coming in I usually set my
controller to a tight range like 94-95% to keep the environment mostly humid. Even with the humidity on, some evaporation
will still occur.

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself. 
Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.





Here is some information on my grow room, humidity controllers and instructions for building a bucket fogger.


Edited by Asura (09/19/20 04:02 PM)


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OfflineAsuraS
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Last seen: 44 minutes, 33 seconds
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura] * 1
    #25987052 - 05/12/19 01:03 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Fruiting (Part 2)

If everything is ideal, you can expect pins to come in ~5 days from fruiting. If nothing has happened by day 8, it probably never will.

As soon as I see the first flush start to come in (the whole flush, not just a pin or two), I set the humidity to a tight range like
94-95%. At this point I want to keep the environment mostly humid.

But even so, I sometimes end up watering the casing layer by hand with a syringe to keep it wet.

The idea that cyans will abort when misted has been thoroughly debunked by many in recent times, however I still like to be gentle, hence the hand watering.
I can put more water down in specific areas and it generally gives me more control...but if you want to mist, mist away.

Pans don't really have distinct flushes like I've experienced with cubes. They come in waves. You can expect to harvest your first wave 5-7 days
after pinning. I always have some fruits that mature well before the others. But pans move so quickly that I will just leave them if I have pins that
are half the size and wait for everything to catch up. If I have a lot of really small pins along with the mature fruits, I will harvest everything
that's ready, being careful not to come in contact with the smaller pins.

Here, pins were about this size after 3 days when I watered them with a syringe:



I put about 50ml total on the surface.

A day later shows significant growth. You can see that a second wave of pins is starting to come in.


I watered again because the casing was drying out a bit.

Two days later (6 days from first pins) and the first flush was ready for harvest.

After harvest, I drench the casing layer (pour a cup of water on it) and put the tray back in the FC for another flush, which can come in anywhere
from 3-5 days. My record is 5 flushes. Nothing contaminated, I just got bored and had to make room in FC for new trays. Usually, I shoot for 2 flushes.

Well that's it! Hope you find this information useful in some way.

Based on my experience, you will know what to do after your 6th pan grow :cookiemonster:


Edited by Asura (12/06/20 06:27 PM)


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OfflineAsuraS
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Registered: 08/01/11
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25987054 - 05/12/19 01:04 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

(reserved)


Edited by Asura (09/19/20 04:04 PM)


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OfflineAsuraS
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Registered: 08/01/11
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25987055 - 05/12/19 01:04 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

(reserved)


Edited by Asura (07/11/19 12:18 AM)


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OfflineTweeq
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25987152 - 05/12/19 02:13 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

This is great Asura! Can't imagine the time you put into this. Very happy you posted this for us. If this doesn't persuade ppl to have a go at this fantastic species, Idk what will!

Great work man! You did the world a favor here


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OfflineAendir
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Tweeq]
    #25987417 - 05/12/19 08:03 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Great post Asura, thank you and congrats for the well-deserved tag ! :wink:


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OfflineSFS96S
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Aendir]
    #25987422 - 05/12/19 08:12 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Badass Asura:thumbup: I just started the pan jams I received from you so this will be very helpful :rockon:


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InvisibleJ. Jack Flash
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25987480 - 05/12/19 09:21 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

you sir, are a saint. this thread is incredible.


--------------------
 
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OfflineGrimsweeper
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: J. Jack Flash]
    #25988150 - 05/12/19 03:58 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Excellent details Asura and Congradulations!


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OfflineMr. Funguy
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Grimsweeper]
    #25988159 - 05/12/19 04:02 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Dope. Waiting for my field collected poo to dry out then starting my Pan Cam in July, definitely bookmarking this!


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OfflinemushboyM
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Mr. Funguy] * 1
    #25988188 - 05/12/19 04:18 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

:tldr:




Naw I'm reading. Thorough as f man:awesomenod:


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OfflineLogicaL ChaosM
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25988405 - 05/12/19 06:41 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

This is awesome. That Humidifying Closet Set-Up :eek:


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Invisiblemycorry
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura]
    #25988892 - 05/13/19 12:09 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Awesome writup!

Thank you VERY much for the GH breakdown. :cheers:


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OfflineEl ChupacabraS
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: mycorry]
    #25988931 - 05/13/19 12:43 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Perfect timing for this! I'm at T2 from pan jam spores I recently got from someone that's cool AF and they're looking clean clean clean.
This writeup will help me immensely moving forward.. Thanks Asura!:thumbup::mushroom2:


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InvisibleUrbanCubensis


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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura] * 1
    #25988939 - 05/13/19 12:50 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Excellent writeup man! +5 :smile:

They grow native here would love to try my luck at them!
You've just helped me heaps


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InvisibleZiran
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: UrbanCubensis] * 1
    #25988956 - 05/13/19 01:05 AM (1 year, 8 months ago)

:fuckinawesome:


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InvisibleIll-bird

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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Asura] * 1
    #25990850 - 05/13/19 10:26 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

I love this! Nice write up 👨🏻‍🔬


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Invisibled0urd3n
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: Ill-bird]
    #25990872 - 05/13/19 10:33 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Amazing writeup! I suspect we will be seeing a lot more people growing pans now :hehehe:

Im curious why do you hang the bags after the PC cycle though? Wasn't understanding your intention with that.


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OfflineAsuraS
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Re: Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens [Re: d0urd3n]
    #25990903 - 05/13/19 10:44 PM (1 year, 8 months ago)

Quote:

d0urd3n said:
Im curious why do you hang the bags after the PC cycle though? Wasn't understanding your intention with that.




The bags won't have any air in them after the PC cycle (and they are pre-sealed). If you hang them the air will come in
through the filter patch faster...so you can inoculate them sooner. Otherwise, it might take a day or two. This way you
can be ready in 4-6 hours.


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