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InvisibleTedsDead
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: sumohomo]
    #25917213 - 04/05/19 09:41 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

hello,  this may be a silly question but another opinion would help ease my mind and I have been unable to turn up any relevant answers via search.  soo...  because I know that you brew I'm asking you:  due to extremely limited space in my home I am considering fermenting in my "lab" room.  up to maybe 10 carboys (for temperatures sake)  do you think that this could lead to possible yeast contams?  or should proper sterile technique and practice negate any extra yeast that might be in the air? 
Id rather not learn this the hard way, lol


thanks much for your time and patience!


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weed gets you through times of no money better than money gets you through times of no weed...  -the fabulous furry freak bros
If you can buy it, you can burn it!



https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25947396#25947396

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: TedsDead]
    #25917228 - 04/05/19 09:46 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

You'll be fine

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InvisibleTedsDead
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25917236 - 04/05/19 09:50 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

that's assuring! :wink:  I'm still a noob at brewing but am hooked now


--------------------
weed gets you through times of no money better than money gets you through times of no weed...  -the fabulous furry freak bros
If you can buy it, you can burn it!



https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25947396#25947396

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: TedsDead]
    #25917326 - 04/05/19 10:44 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Largest batch of beer I've done was 1860 gallons. Shoot me a PM about beer if you ever want

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Offlinesumohomo
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25917404 - 04/05/19 11:40 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Really? Nobody?

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: sumohomo]
    #25917659 - 04/05/19 01:48 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Make a thread lol. This is a qna in getting started. Ive never grown any coplandia

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OfflinePuduwoke
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25917748 - 04/05/19 02:37 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

May I ask why, you haven't grown any coplandia?
I would really like to see you do so Bod.

Edit: Asking because Im excited about currently being on T5 of my first Pan attempt.


--------------------
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LAGM2021

Edited by Puduwoke (04/05/19 02:38 PM)

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: Puduwoke]
    #25917753 - 04/05/19 02:39 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Every time i had time for something other than cubes i chose gourmets and medicinals. I tried pans years ago but the one little jar i made didn't fruit. Hopefully some day i get some time. Im still have to get cubes back up and going lol.

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Offlinesumohomo
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25918490 - 04/05/19 09:31 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Well that explains that! lol Thanks anyway Bod. I thought for sure you had, and I can't start threads yet apparently. I do think it's funny we have the same problem with em though

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: sumohomo]
    #25918536 - 04/05/19 10:13 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

You can start threads

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Invisiblereplyom


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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: bodhisatta] * 1
    #25925776 - 04/09/19 08:27 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Hey man,

I'm following your oat prep tek. I have enough oats for 6 quart jars spread out for 1.5 hours in two wide colanders, so pretty thin. My toilet paper has a few drops on it (similar to the pic in your tek), but I keep thinking about RR's video that says there should be NO water left on the toilet paper. In your tek you say you sometimes leave them overnight in the fridge -- do you just set the colander/s in the fridge, or do you do anything specific? Do you worry at all about the cleanliness of the fridge? And why the fridge instead of the counter top? Thanks a lot.

Btw, I tried boiling for 30 minutes and there were a LOT of busted grains, so I tried 10 min and there are just a few per handful. You must have a ton of busted grains at 30-45 min... I'm interested to see how the 10 min boil will colonize.

Cheers!

Edited by replyom (04/09/19 08:46 PM)

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: Copelandia Trouble [Re: replyom]
    #25926174 - 04/10/19 04:52 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Do you got the right oats. Its hard to burst a lot of them.

Drier is better

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Offlinegoffa
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25926881 - 04/10/19 01:04 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

This chart has been handy. Thanks :smile:


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OfflineJohnny51v3
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25927029 - 04/10/19 02:25 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

just wanted to say thanks for all your teks.. really a great help to me. I just started my own adventure on 4/1/19.

delete if you want... obviously no contribution here.. lol

Edited by Johnny51v3 (04/10/19 02:33 PM)

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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: Johnny51v3]
    #25928027 - 04/11/19 03:00 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Why, after taking transfers, did the myc seem to experience a temporary burst of tomentose-like growth, even in areas not next to a transfer?

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Invisibleporter
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: Feasoghorm]
    #25929262 - 04/11/19 04:59 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

So, I've prepared 10 qts of Whole oats using your tek and I'm getting ready to spawn to a tub soon. Should I hydrate them one more time right before spawn? I've seen people re-hydrate WBS before spawn with better results but I was wondering if this is something that is still just as applicable to whole oats.


--------------------


"When a man is denied the right to live the life he believes in, he has no choice but to become an outlaw." - Nelson Mandela

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OfflineMagicBiscuit
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25931135 - 04/12/19 06:14 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Hey Bod! Long time listener, first time caller. So I've got a few things in the works and I was hoping you could provide me with some "troubleshooting" or advice on how to proceed. Began with MS to BRF cakes, which are pictured below. Began looking into Monotub/bulk and had 10 extra jars, so they crumbled into bulk to practice monotub. Trying to follow your teks (minus the Pressure cooker), your oat spawn, spawn to bulk, and g2g transfer were all attempted using the respective ingredients. Stupidly,I tried to do a BRF g2g to Oats, which all resulted in contam. Simultaneously, there  were 5 qt jars inoculated with MS (again, not pressure cooked, and again I know you say not to do it, but I had extra spores and said what the hell). That being said, here's where I sit with a few things.

First, the BRF cakes. I'm seeing a lot of bruising, but I'm unsure if its from direct moisture contact from misting or dehydration. Even after a soak, they still look quite blue. Originally they were extremely fluffy and white for the first flush. The second go around this is what they look like. The cakes were not rolled in dry verm before being put into the SGFC, as I should have. Mistakenly, a hygrometer was also used to judge humidity rather than paying attention to surface conditions of tha cakes. This in end may have led to undermisting in the beginning, since all the cakes fruited from the bottom. It may also be due to the fact that the wiped off dry verm layer was on the foil, pulling moisture to the bottom. Coupled with the fact that most of the misting was done on the sides of the tub rather than over the cakes, part of me believes my problem is dehydration. I was hoping you could tell me what these pictures indicate. The first is an issue of bruising, but I'm not sure what from:

The second picture is of some growth its first flush:

When a cake looks this bad, should I toss it immediately or just let it continue to fruit until it stops? The black specks are alarming and are on a few cakes that aren't doing so well. A couple of the other cakes have slightly orange streaks (no smell or slime). I'm assuming bacteria on that part. What I'm looking for is a kind of "troubleshooting" so the same mistakes aren't made again as well as any perspective you have after viewing these pictures.

The second situation is the monotub made with 10 of the extra original BRF cakes using your Easy AF tek, substituting BRF cakes for oat spawn. I'm pretty sure it only ended up being like 3 or 4 total quarts of spawn, and it was mixed using your AF teks for substrate and unmodified tub tek. In all, its believed the total volume of the mixture was 2" maybe 2.5" above the bottom of a 55qt tub, short of the 4" desired. Here's the problems being ran into: First, the contents of the of the tub have shrank, pulling the sides away from the wall, causing moisture to pile up in the corners and along the bottom sides of the tub. This in turn has caused the second problem: side pinning.



I understand that in the picture there is quite a bit of moisture running along the wall. That was taken immediately after a heavy misting because the bruising was beginning to spread, and panic ensued. In the earlier stages, I was worried about moisture content because of the lack of volume in the tub (again, still not perfect at judging surface conditions) and ignorantly misted the walls thinking it would damage the fluffy white mycelium poking through the coir if it was hit directly. As the entire thing began to shrink, water began to collect at the bottom, resulting in the side pinning. This further began to push the sub away from the sides of the tub, worsening the microclimates and further increasing the water retention in those areas. You can also see in the bruising picture that strings of myc are "reaching" out to the sides of the tub, presumably because it detects a high moisture concentration. There may have been too much FAE in the beginning as well, as the lid used didn't quite match the tubs size, leaving about a 1/4"x 2" gap on each side. With all of that being said, is the problem here merely improper maintenance of surface conditions? Is the shrinking of the contents normal, or was it due to improper misting, and did this also result in the bruising? Judging by the photo, what adjustments should be made?

Lastly, there are these grain jars that have had a rough go of things. Literally, everything was done wrong. The first 5 were g2g from BRF cakes in a SAB, merely wiping off the dry verm layer and crumbling the cake before being placed into an oat jar (steamed for 2 hours). All ended in contam due to my ignorance. The other 5 were inoculated with a leftover spore syringe after being steamed for 2 hours and cooled. Then, covered in masking tape (cringe), so there was no FAE for a solid week and a half. Growth stunted, and learned that this was because there was no FAE. A punch was used to increase the size of the innoc hole to 1/4" hole while the lid was still on the jar. Aluminum foil was used to as a dirt barrier (like you would when PCing jars). It's been about a month and some change overall, and out of the 5 jars, 3 are growing decently, but I'm worried that since they've been colonizing so long and still aren't done, that bacteria may be taking over. 3 of the jars were shaken to see if growth would become quicker. 2 of those jars the growth did increase, 1 not so much. What I am beginning to notice from all the jars is the density of mycelium; it's all stringy, long reaching, but not very dense.



Would jars that look like this be viable for spawning to bulk? 2 of the jars are almost fully colonized, but the growth overall in the jars looks weak. There's no visible signs of contam (no colors or odors so far). Is the only way to know for sure is to smell them when spawning to bulk? Would the smell of bacteria be sort of like an alcohol smell? Would hate to know that all 10 of the jars ended in contam. Hopefully, with a pressure cooker and the transition to agar, these issues won't be a problem.

Okay, so if you haven't cringed to death at all the things done incorrectly so far, you'll be happy to hear that a lot of progress has been made and a lot of research has been done so that I can follow your teks the way they are supposed to be done. A presto pressure cooker has been purchased, the same media bottle with gl45, and 20 poured dishes were completed today. 4 of those petri dishes inoculated with MS were done today using your agar tek as well as 2 attempts at cloning (one using a pin, and one using from a biopsy). The other 14 Dishes are in the fridge awaiting the first round transfers. The next step is to wait for the growth on agar, then transfer healthy growth to another agar, and then transfer to pressure-cooked oak grains in a SAB. A couple of those jars to be master grain jars used for g2g, the other 10 or so spawn to bulk to get some fruits in the near future. Any perspective on moving forward? Probably just going to ditch the SGFC's and perlite, as the swap is being made to monotub tek and don't see much need for them since cloning can be done with baggies over a jar. Is there any use in your teks for 36 half pint jars, or are just quart jars needed from now on? The BRF will be used for future agar plates, for now. Right now, the main objective is to have a rotation going that can make spawn be an issue of the past. Using your flowchart, does it seem like I'm on the right track? Moving forward, it is preffered to not have to do any kind of sporework if it's not necessary. Is it possible to be sustainable doing agar and clone work? Sorry for such a long post, but there's been so much I've been dying to ask you for so long. Not gonna lie, I'm probably your biggest, most silent fan.

MB

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OfflineMagicBiscuit
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: MagicBiscuit]
    #25931147 - 04/12/19 06:22 PM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Porter,

Bod would say no, drier is better. From his Oat tek:

"I personally find that drier grains perform way better than anything too wet. I sometimes prepare lots of grain a day ahead of time let it dry in the colander for a few hours then put it in the fridge overnight. It almost seems too dry, you can't get it too dry. If I have the time I vastly prefer to make the grain on the dry side.

If you're interested in endospore theory and soak vs no soak theory
then please click here: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/21604725"

His Unmodified tub tek says to just open spawn from jar to tub with coir:

"My tubs do not dry out being in "fruiting conditions" during "colonization"
My yields have stayed the same. My time to full colonization has decreased as has the time to pinning and harvest.
I have always had exposed top grains, doing "fruiting conditions" immediately has not caused an issue even with exposed grains."

Meaning that all the moisture you need will come from the field capacity coir and whatever minimal misting you will do. Good luck homie!

Edited by MagicBiscuit (04/12/19 06:25 PM)

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Offlinesporesandsuch
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25933998 - 04/14/19 11:02 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

Hi Bodhisatta,

Thanks in advance for keeping this Q&A thread going.

I read in one of your earlier posts that you have experience growing in dry climates. Here it's well over 6,000 feet and humidity is often negligible. Room temperature is around 68 degrees.

My PF Tek cakes are taking soooo long to colonize (from syringes: B+ from one vendor, B+, Ecuador, and Golden T. from a second vendor.) Only one of the vendor's strains (B+) is taking off, showing about 10% after 10 days. That seems fairly satisfying. The other vendor's B+ has colonization spots no bigger than a pea. All of the Ecuador & G.T. jars are barren.

My concern is that the standard PF Tek recipe might not be wet enough for high desert climates. Would you recommend adjusting it, e.g. do 1.25 cups of water instead of the usual 1 cup?

And for the jars I already have on the shelf, for those that are showing no growth after 10 days, is it worth risking contamination by trying to inject a few CC's of sterile water after the fact?

As an experiment I've put two of the jars in my fruiting environment where there's a good bit of FAE, 80% humidity, and a little more warmth. Scientifically, I'm thinking this experiment is silly because if the chamber's humidity *does* manage to penetrate through the dry verm layer, it's not like it's sterile or anything...

I'm also prepared to hear that as a noob I should just be more patient and stop fucking around with my jars, let them sit for 4 weeks. :tongue:

On the whole, I'm eager for any high desert growing tips you might have. (Hey, no need to spend money on a dehydrator...)


Edited by sporesandsuch (04/14/19 11:03 AM)

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InvisiblebodhisattaMDiscordReddit
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: sporesandsuch]
    #25934007 - 04/14/19 11:10 AM (4 years, 11 months ago)

during the colonization in the jars the external humidity should be basically negligible as only gas exchange happens through the lid the amount of moisture loss I wouldn't think could even impact the cake colonization performance

cakes just take a long time sometimes

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