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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
I'm a teapot


Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Shower and sliding doors
    #25619918 - 11/16/18 10:25 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)

Id never attempted tile before. When you dont do something long enough a stigma can be created, a mini mental mountain. Im all about knocking those down before they get big and making them confidences. I made mistakes everywhere as per usual, but i looked around, figured them and the previous contractors mistakes out, and so let me share what ive been up to

I got busy with a self employed venture and decided to hire out the rest of the remodel i was doing including bathroom. This was two years ago probably. One guy who said he had done tile before several times (and he did an amazing custom kitchrn cabinet job with all the upgrades and fancy valence and everything) left in the middle of a botched job. I didnt know how botched til last week.

Without this being a million pictures and paragraphs lets just say i ultimately found the framing he built for the enclosure to be crooked and outnof square esp at where the left shower door jamb would be installed and ir was way out like an inch away from jamb. Also there was no accent tiles anywhere, also the ceiling partition came down to 70" - and it needed to come down to 73" at the most for top track and rollers to clear - so i had to cut out part of top partition, reframe it, rebacker board, retile it and the huge inside face and i made it 75" for a sleek air gap on top. The pink framing was cutout and i toenailed in some pieces to make a new rail - this section holds nothing but the weight of the tile so i got lucky and felt confident.


Oh, and the subfloor is crooked at a slant. That one was hard to find. Had to stop all work and scratch my head, why was the top track not level when the measurements say both jambs are the same height off subfloor? I kept looking. Subfloor to jamb was 72 on left. 72 on right. Put a level on the bottom roe of tile. It was level. Measured tbe side jambs. They were rhe same length. Put the top track in. It was way off level, like wuarter bubble out. Step back, scratch my head. Subfloor to top of jamb. Same. Measured jambs again. Same. This time i measured subfloor to top of tile on bottom row and found oohhh man quarter inch different. I had built up the thinset and tile a quarter inch over that bottom row run withour realizoming it bc i was so focused on lippage and level - and i did good i guess haha i made it level.

And im so glad i found that, ive found that in my career or in diy stuff its all about double checkinf and understandinf before you move forward. I ended up shimming one of the jambs and that let me drill and mount the top collars level and hang the top track level so these heavy glass doors dont roll by themselves - therr are so many bad reviews on this particular track bc of bad installs. One guy scarred up all his pieces when cutting thr jambs, complains abiut the doors rolling by themselves and water leaking. And he blames Delta. Smh. It is a challenging install and, for example, if i had followed directions to a T i would have had issues.

For example they say lay the jambs up there and put the collar on top and mark and drill your holes. Then install top track into both top collars. Well, i had a gut feeling i needed to cut my track first so i could put a 4' level on it and verify i was drilling these effort laden holes in the correct spots so itbwould be mounted level. And im glad i did, i shimmed one a quarter inch. So many of these reviews with doors moving by themselves, thats improper install... even though they could have folowed Deltas instructions and just missed something crucial bc they were blindly following directions like the arrow in skyrim rather than actively thinking at each new step, how will this affect the next few steps, does this have any weight on it, does this have any adjustment? These are questions rhat save us a lot of trouble. Never assume everythinf is square like these directions do.

Also, because this is the fancy frameless one, the width of your opening is crucial bc when you move both heavy glass panels to the center all the weight is in the middle of the stainless steel top track and its as small and sleek as they can get it, theyll even tell you on the phkne, if you are longer than the recommended width (58) by an inch the track will bow under the weight when both doors are not fully closed. Bowed track means doors hang lower and scrape bottom. The overlap between doors is large too - so i fear some contractors are instslling them in peoples existing 60" openings, and the doors still overlap amd it looks like it was installed right, but leaks from between foor and if both panels are in center the frame sags. And the contractor blames the product.

To be fair delta put 60" wide and 70" tall on the box. This is why people get the sag issue i feel. This is also why my incompetent contractor built the enclosure to 70, bc he didnt open the book and read and actively think, what about the rollers on top too?

Mine is 56 wide (acceptable range was 50-58wide) so i shoukdnt have door issues. Delta sure should chamge their advertising on the box tho ans should list vertidal dimensions for those of us with a wraparound enclosure

I really learned that, like the custom plumbing i did in here, a custom shower door should be chosen in the befinninf bc it will have its own variances. I had to call delta ten times during install of door bc of all these quirks like how the jams have to be rotated in, well i have a ceiling partition coming down and cant do that, so i called 1800 number and rhey answer by third ring and have a mockup in their work area and the engineers who designed it down the hall. It was badass. They helped me a lot.

It was grueling Chipping out that accent row tryinf not to damage the surrounding tiles, redoing the bench seat and front face, redoing the inside face (backside of ceiling partition with marble tile), redoing backside of ceiling partition yet again when i realized shower door wouldnt fit and it was either put in a walmart curtain rod or cut out the wall - until im unable, i will always cut out the wall - but its been worth it i think. Ive learned an immense amount. Ive never seen a shower this nice in real life. And i basically made one now.


ts been a grueling two weeks, in fact two days this week were spent all day drilling 24 holes through porcelain tile and a few hole saw cuts - but each hole is four steps (1/8,3/16,1/4,5/16) and one hand is holding water spray bottle (borrowed from my monotub, thank you) to keep diamond bit cool. That was tough. How did i keep my hole saws from walking bc they have no pilot bit you ask? Well arent you perceptive. Check this out



Mount the jig with the giant suction cup, move the scissor jaw to the appropriate size amd the four bearings roll on the OD of your holesaw. Pretty neat. Waitinf on a 2 3/8" diamond hole sae in the mail to ounch out a better hole for blend valve and diverter valve (mexican did it eith a grinder, and not the proper way from back side with plunge cuts. Lol that was the only time i was impressed by his work in here lol)

Jig and decent diamond hole saw kit together $60, and it will pay for itself so fast. How long did it take him to make the blend door cut with a grinder? 2 or 3 hours labor and this is paid for.



Nice marble seat for a lady to seat her kitten on and shave her legs. The 24" rain shower head takes two seperate 1/2" pex input lines. The theory is spread a lot of water over a large area and allow the drops to get large and heavy and fall on their own accord rsther thsn just a pressurized spray. I removed the epa mandated 2.5gph restrictors from all showerheads, as a good homeowner should. These are the little colored discs they do nothing but restrict flow. Also the rain head has LEDs that turn colors depending on wster temp, green red or blue. No batteries, i guess dissimilar metals creates a charge. All the marble tile i didz and i redid all the brown on the left side shower jamb. His framing was off swuare bad and he tiled to his backerboard angles - he never checked with levels or squares. I had to cut out all the red oak tile and redo it in marble and put more and more thinset behind the tiles tk make them come out even no lippage. One has prob 1/2" thinset behind it.

But im very proud to say it came out good. Good with all things considered. He didnt stagger the tiles he didnt build a square frame he didnt wipe the grout grooves after setting each tile - so i had to spend literally 4 hours maybe a little more using various tools to scrape out thinset from between tiles, some were so full they were flush up to the tiles most of way across and id have to carve a groove in it down the whole way to allow for grout.

Grouting... id never grouted. The videos make it look pretty easy, so i got in there. Loaded up the grout float and startinf from bottom up id drag it upwards filling all the vertical lines instantly - coming back and packing the side joints well, scooping uo the fallen grout bc i cleaned the pan before hand, i was on a roll! This is easy! First time pro! I get it now. Wiping off the excess with 45s, always crossing the lines at a diagonal. I get that face done pretty quick and start the next face. When the first area is starting to dry and haze up i went bsck sith a sponge and to my horror every time i went across a little bit of grout would wipe out. So i would repack some in and wipe off excess. Move on.

But as i cleaned above that area, the area below would get drip stains from above so id clean it, lose grout, repack, rewipe excess and move on. Somehow, i think because my grout mix was too wet to begin with, i ended up spending five hours in there grouting. And its like a cave it was getting humid hot in there with all that moisture and my heat. The result?




It turned out really well. For a failure. Like all my other mistakes i research around and a) grout mix too wet and b, especially b) working the lines too soon or too much and introducing excess water in causes major discolorarion, some pigment is washed away but mostly its salts rising to the surface and blocking pigment. This was supposed to be latte, a cappucino color but its beige/eggshell. Matches rhe marble perfectly. As Bob Ross would say i had a happy little accident

Waiting on some pex fittings and a 2 3/8" diamonf hole saw in the mail (isnt that cool) and ill mount the diverer and blend valves. Be done. Oh i cant wait. Diverter valve will divert wster flow to the rain head, or the main shower head (that has a ring that contijues to spray even adter wand is removed), or both at once. I usually have 50psi water pressure as per my pressure gauge on my pex manifold (city water can be as low as 30) so im pretty sure i can run both simultaneously.


I hope the showerhead isnt too las vegas, tried to put a screenshot of hownit looks lit uo but too big and im on phone. Its a "shower systems 24" led rain head" if u want to duckduckgo and see colors.

Anyway im a first timer. I had to smoke sativas constantly to both relax my anxiety and get me in there, this shower has been a source of anxiety for literally two years, anytime someone would ask about it id get stomach knots bc the money lost and the fact i couldnt afford to pay to dix it and didnt habe the skills to fix it and i was too busy learninf how to sheetrock at the time or frame walls or run new wiring throughout.and then once or twice, esp like when grouting started goinf downhill like hour two and i knew i should be done by now and ibwas redoing spots five times literally bc they werent perfect and kept wiping out, yeah id rush out and spark up a few fat rips and get back in there. Feeling like a timer of doom is countinf down as everything looks horrible and may dry that way... or when its been six hours and im not even half done drillinf these holes and no ones here to help and it seems like a mountain of a task... how can i fix something that the contractor couldnt and everyone thats come to quote was 2500 just to do the retile  and none of the crazy plumbing or craxy elaborate door, why the fuck didnt i just get a walmart rod....

Yeah. Thats why i took the roughly hour to post this on my phone. Bc you can do it, damn good, even on your first time. Take the time to look for proper tools, a lesson i still use every day from skydiving is to visualize the whole procedure youre about to do - the skydive, the grout job, whatever. Before i added wster and mixed the frout and started the doom timer i went in there with the grout float and did the motions and grouted the wall with nothinf on my grout. Helps a lot in every day. Let the drill bit and the water do the cutting, take it one step at a time.

I honestly think i just did about 6k worth of work. I was quoted 2500 to do the retilez thst didnt include al those hours of drilling to mount the shower head or door, didnt inckude knocking out all those tiles a sefond time to cut out wall and reframe and retile... lotnof work. And now i have the diamond hole saws to cut out the corners of an undermount sink in granite - get me a diamond blade for my circular saw and some epoxy and im headed to install granite countertops on a huge kitchen horseshoe and island. Save 2500 over pro install price. One thing leads to the next, keep that momentum!

Huzzah!

Edit - pex fittings came in today. Mounted rain head for real (earlier pics were test mount) and put silicone around the pedastals and on all the threads during assembly. Sometimes i do that for a minor threadlocker, here im doing it to prevent water entry and rusty threads and hard disassembly in the future.

Test ran the head on a small ladder inside the shower. Best i could with one person anyway.

I use pex press fittings and for all their advantages they have some disadvantages, like fetting yiur compression pliers up in weird areas like this or that u have to be sure to assemble correctly in the right order or youll have to cut them out. But everything came out good. Lot of construction dust that shows in the pics. Unfortunately you csn see the piping when walking in and looking from an angle so i should have used a 90 on the front supply and hugged the top of the head and teed in lower to prevent that, oh well, learn for next time and move on. Im selling this house anyway. Small things like that would bother me. In fact i can see some sharpie outline and a little excess silicone ill get those both after it dries.





Just need hole saw now



Edited by Humble Newcomer (11/19/18 01:31 PM)


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
I'm a teapot


Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Shower and sliding doors [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25619929 - 11/16/18 10:38 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)

Oops too trivial to edit


Ill admit, im damn proud of this one. Literally dozens of problems, some so big i chippednout half the shower and knocked out part od a wall.

....i think i leveled up.

And yes that is a beer/beverage holder permanently in the wall, right by the seat  good eye

Used a $70 small skilsaw wet tile saw. Tile was cheap, tools were cheap... For real, they do all the work for us, put your water in the bucket first to prevent clumps and mix while adding. Its crazy how immediately you can do good work just by watching your angles and squares - and adding water. Im so pumped up i want to tile and stucco everything now! Get it!


--------------------
How I made my mush GH


Edited by Humble Newcomer (11/17/18 03:40 PM)


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
I'm a teapot


Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Shower and sliding doors [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25643108 - 11/27/18 04:29 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)



Just about done. I'm messing with the blend valve bc it gets kinda tough when I go to the left for hot. It's weird and I don't like it. But I rigged up test fittings and operated the valves on the floor with a bucket before mounting. To verify hot was hot and all that, also to verify straight up on the diverter valve is rain head only, straight left is main wand and ring only and diagonal is both. It runs both!

I just got back from 5 days in hospital my dad had a procedure go wrong and had a hematoma pushing on his spine and almost died, then was almost paralyzed, and now hes thankfully just back to the gentle slow teddy bear with parkinsons. 4 days ICU,getting 45minutes of sleep at a time sitting in 90degree chairs freezing like you can only freeze in a hospital or jail.. Its painful seeing this invincible father figure be fragile, using handrails and taking steps with extreme caution. His hair is more salt than pepper now. we had thanksgiving in ICU. Hug your loved ones, make friends with your parents /kids. The things that really matter come out of nowhere at 2am on a Sunday morning.

...im going to be taking LONG and hot hot showers under this huge rain head to recharge.

Thanks for watching, hope y'all learned something I learned about 100 things.

Peace and Love


--------------------
How I made my mush GH


Edited by Humble Newcomer (11/27/18 07:01 PM)


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Offlinethe astronaut
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Registered: 06/09/11
Posts: 447
Loc: usa Flag
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Re: Shower and sliding doors [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25643220 - 11/27/18 05:11 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)

Good job man, I love that rain head and was not aware those existed. I feel like I need one now would be great after a long cold day at work. Enjoy your hard work looks like it payed off.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
I'm a teapot


Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Shower and sliding doors [Re: the astronaut]
    #25643389 - 11/27/18 06:21 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)

Thank you buddy, post first shower thoughts are I could do without the LEDs tbh, but I haven't felt this... loose... I guess relaxed in my neck and upper shoulders in a while. There are 8" rain heads galore, I've seen a 12" square head here and there maybe at Home Depot for around $100. My next house I think I'm going to try the 12" one and see how well that does bc it's so much cheaper and in the long run parts will be easier to find, they'll be cheaper, etc. But if I don't love it, I'll definitely get another one of these. I didn't have to move around and prioritize where the hot water was soaking and massaging, I just stood there and my whole body was enveloped in warmth, it was so nice, soooo nice, part of me is thinking well not onky am i taking longer showers now but it pumps out a lot of volume of water with two input lines, my water consumption is through the roof and i dont like that.... but on the other hand its hands down the best shower ive ever had. Uber relaxing.

Parts list as I remember it in case a future reader likes something in here :

Shower systems 24" LED rain head $350-$400 depending where online

Delta brilliance Stainless wand and ring (p/n 142710-SS-I) (can direct flow to all wand no ring, all ring no wand, and a few ratios of each) : think it was $120-170 @ Home Depot (HD) that comes with blend valve and trims and hardware for it. It should be noted that this is really nice BY itself, I switched to only this head for when I was scrubbing up and actually washing, and at one point I sat on bench and realized how good this is by itself. Very nice to have ring spraying from above as you wash buttcrack with wand.

Delta diverter valve was like $60 but that doesn't include the trim or handle (they have like 15 styles all heavy and nice) or even some of the shower valve mounting stuff, prob 200 or something for all things involved with that diverter system.

Delta step 1, 2 and 3 shower door system. Sold at HD or Lowes, they're all together in the store and interchangeable to get the looks u want, a pretty sweet setup really as long as you read directions first and build to fit.

This is the contemporary track (250) rain glass panels (115) And Crestwood shower door handles (50).

The tiles were vitromex brand harmony red oak 17"x17" and I forgot the other brand, I just learned about surplus warehouse they have amazing stuff and I got the marble tile from them, 17x17 (I think it's floor tile tbh :shrug: ) but comes out to $3 per tile. Like $18 a box of 6 i think... gorgeous...

Thinset is cheap $15 bucks a bag and two bags should do a wraparound shower like this. Maybe 3 with all the mistakes we had here.

Grout was 1 bag @ $18 I think.

The drink holders and beer holder, they sell inserts for those I don't know if they work well. These we 2x4 box frame on the wall and cut backer board pieces to fit and screwed them on there. Remember to have a downward angle on all horizontal ledges like the soap holders and the bench seat. But you do that with the thinset, screw your backerboards on flat and flush to the 2x4 box frame.

Tools are cheap wet tile saw $70
notched towel $7, grout float $10, drill and mixing paddle $60,$7, some buckets $3ea, tile spacers $2 sponge $1... you could get by with 1 or two diamond hole saws at $10 each, 2 sets of glass/tile drill hits at $15each.. take your time and I only broke 2 bits on around 120 holes. Well, about 35 holes but 4 steps each. That's why the bits lasted.

Wish I knew what it would cost, for a comparison. One guy quoted me 6500 to build a similar wraparound shower if I gutted the whole thing, but he wasn't going to touch my "Malibu plumbing. So that was all extra. And a ton of work, all those holes through tile, mount and plumb the diverter valve and rain head. Three days work with no helper... I bet that brings it up to 10-12k. It's smaller than I'd like...

But hella nice! Good luck!


Edited by Humble Newcomer (11/27/18 06:48 PM)


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OfflineSpindlymass
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Re: Shower and sliding doors [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25643797 - 11/27/18 09:12 PM (5 years, 2 months ago)



That is a thing of beauty!


God damn man! You are rockin' it. What a lot of work (labour of love) It looks great. You have done so much on that place.


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enough knowledge to get into trouble. Not nearly enough to get out again.


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