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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
Posts: 78
Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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XeroX84 said: You can squeeze the bag softly and smell on the filter. But any thing is happen with it.
I tried but didn't smell anything?
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XeroX84 said: First do the smell test. I think its gone.... And then buy a PC dont dropp so much money out 4 bags
I will buy one. I am american but live outside the U.S.A. They are expensive here.
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naturalistic123 said: It is DEFINATELY worth the money to buy a pressure cooker and jars (and or bags...but I've only ever used jars). It's understandable to be tight on money, and I would suggest either surfing your local thrift shops for pressure cookers (but these are usually missing some parts, and you'll have to find the parts you need, which is kinda daunting if you don't know anything about them), or just go ahead and drop the 80 dollars on a decent presto pressure cooker. You'll be able to make up sterilized grains whenever you want to, and it really furthers the enjoyment of the hobby to be involved of all parts of it, and makes things cheaper in the long run.
In short, just get yourself a presto pressure cooker and some jars. It's worth the money tenfold.
Also, if you don't have qualms NOT using the peat and worm castings, then this is the route i would suggest. Like you said, do the easy first (which actually turns out to be the cost effective, simplest way which I think you will find you will stick with).
Always feel free to ask any questions here along the way, I remember how grateful I was when I was first learning the ropes here. Most users on here know their stuff, and are always willing to help.
Thanks alot for the help! I will buy a PC and some Jars. I still have my fingers crossed for the bag. I checked today and the mycelium seems to be picking up speed. I inoculated 2 1/2 weeks ago.
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nube424 said: It really is. My pc was like $30 and its been used... eh hem... maybe 150 times. Well worth it. Bird seed abd jars are cheap as hell too. Ull thank urself.
I will have a look at the bird seed. I am all for cheap but efficient!
My monotub is a bit big and requirea 23 quarts for a 3 inch substrate. Assuming I have 8 quarts colonized rye.....how much coir and vermiculite should I use? What ratio?
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captmarc
Noob
Registered: 09/16/18
Posts: 51
Last seen: 1 year, 6 months
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Quote:
CVIEnergyCore said: No vermiculite?
Not this time, trying just coir, per Bodhi's recommendation on a different thread
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nube424
Registered: 12/03/17
Posts: 6,063
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Just coir works fine
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
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Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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I think about a week left on rye bag colonization. Both bags are 4 qt. They were inoculated 3 weeks ago. Kept at 77F. No signs of contamination. I kept mixing the bags every 3 days due to uneven colonization. No signs of contamination.
Edited by CVIEnergyCore (11/30/18 10:46 AM)
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CVIEnergyCore
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nube424
Registered: 12/03/17
Posts: 6,063
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Dont mix every 3 days.... usually u only need to mix twice. But they look fine. Getting ready to spawn in a day or 2?
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CVIEnergyCore
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Quote:
nube424 said: Dont mix every 3 days.... usually u only need to mix twice. But they look fine. Getting ready to spawn in a day or 2?
I was thinking they had maybe 1 week left on colonization. What do you think?
I decided to go super simple on my first monotub. I need 23 quarts of spawn/substrate for a 3 inch layer in my monotub. So 8 quarts of spawn (pictured above) and 16 quarts of coir ( 2 bricks) That is it. Super simple. Super easy.
1-3 ratio spawn/coir.
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nube424
Registered: 12/03/17
Posts: 6,063
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Maybe a week. Preference i guess. I use them as soon as tgey finish but its fine if they sit.
That ratio will work. Might be more substrate than u expect. Just make sure the coir isnt over hydrated. Not much should drip if u squeeze a handful.
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
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Some pictures. Bought way too much polyfill. Used an entire syringes for 500 ml bottle of liquid culture. The big cardboard box is how I will incubate my tub after adding spawn to the coir. I hope i can maintain proper moisture levels in the substrate.
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herbnmyco
Registered: 02/28/18
Posts: 353
Loc: West Coast
Last seen: 11 days, 7 hours
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Why are you gonna "incubate" your tub? Fruiting from spawn will probably get you pins faster and light is good for em. The liquid culture is probably gonna contam. Lots of info on surface moister here like this thread. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/23999053#23999053
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Pastywhyte
Say hello to my little friend
Registered: 09/15/12
Posts: 37,830
Loc: Canada
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I would like to add my thoughts since I have done everything the OP is thinking about.
First casing layers rock. They are not required the way it is for agaricus, but they do have lots of benefits especially for people in dry or cold regions. Peat is a great casing material but I have a few issues with it. First is that it needs perfect pasteurization and you probably want to buffer it as well. I donβt like having to have a pile of different media to deal with all the time so I no longer use peat to case with. Coir and verm are nearly bulletproof and I already have them on hand for use as bulk media.
Worm castings are a nitrogen booster. They can help make the mycelium grow pretty robust but to be honest, I never saw any difference in yield with them. In fact there really is no difference other than it might take longer to pin. More nutrition often means longer spawn runs. I see zero benefits to using any bulk media other than coir verm for cubes. I stopped using them long ago. Only time I use a complex media is when Iβm doing all expansion in sterile conditions. My best yields all came from simple coir verm.
Presterilized spawn bags suck. Many problems with them and you wonβt know if it was something you did wrong, the person who made the bag did wrong, or the person who made the spore syringe did wrong. No control, itβs a dice roll at best. There many other aspects that make premade bags a terrible choice which vendors will deny, but anyone with a clue understands.
I sure hope you are not starting that LC with spores. That can often fail and without warning. LC should always be started with agar, and later tested on agar. LC is a powerful tool, like a nail gun or a rifle. In skilled hands they can have great benefits. In untrained hands they are disastrous.
Incubation is super risky for any media containing grain. Unless your house is below 70 degrees I would not recommend using heaters and if it is that cold, heat the room, not the tubs.
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
Posts: 78
Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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Quote:
herbnmyco said: Why are you gonna "incubate" your tub? Fruiting from spawn will probably get you pins faster and light is good for em. The liquid culture is probably gonna contam. Lots of info on surface moister here like this thread. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/23999053#23999053
So after mixing spawn and coir I should lower temp, introduce light and FAE? I thought that I should incubate the mycelium another 10 days so it will colonize the coir and produce and even pin set?
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
Posts: 78
Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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Quote:
Pastywhyte said: I would like to add my thoughts since I have done everything the OP is thinking about.
First casing layers rock. They are not required the way it is for agaricus, but they do have lots of benefits especially for people in dry or cold regions. Peat is a great casing material but I have a few issues with it. First is that it needs perfect pasteurization and you probably want to buffer it as well. I donβt like having to have a pile of different media to deal with all the time so I no longer use peat to case with. Coir and verm are nearly bulletproof and I already have them on hand for use as bulk media.
Worm castings are a nitrogen booster. They can help make the mycelium grow pretty robust but to be honest, I never saw any difference in yield with them. In fact there really is no difference other than it might take longer to pin. More nutrition often means longer spawn runs. I see zero benefits to using any bulk media other than coir verm for cubes. I stopped using them long ago. Only time I use a complex media is when Iβm doing all expansion in sterile conditions. My best yields all came from simple coir verm.
Presterilized spawn bags suck. Many problems with them and you wonβt know if it was something you did wrong, the person who made the bag did wrong, or the person who made the spore syringe did wrong. No control, itβs a dice roll at best. There many other aspects that make premade bags a terrible choice which vendors will deny, but anyone with a clue understands.
I sure hope you are not starting that LC with spores. That can often fail and without warning. LC should always be started with agar, and later tested on agar. LC is a powerful tool, like a nail gun or a rifle. In skilled hands they can have great benefits. In untrained hands they are disastrous.
Incubation is super risky for any media containing grain. Unless your house is below 70 degrees I would not recommend using heaters and if it is that cold, heat the room, not the tubs.
Thanks for all that information. My casing layer was pasteurized and limed peat. But I have since decided not to use it. I bought worm castings, not using that either. As for incubating grain, i did it with a room heater on 76-77 and it turned out great. The liquid culture was stRted with a syringe as I am new and haven't started Agar. My room is at 70 f so I guess I didn't need to incubate the grain? Next time I will use Pressure cooker at sterilize my own grain in jars.
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herbnmyco
Registered: 02/28/18
Posts: 353
Loc: West Coast
Last seen: 11 days, 7 hours
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Quote:
CVIEnergyCore said:
Quote:
herbnmyco said: Why are you gonna "incubate" your tub? Fruiting from spawn will probably get you pins faster and light is good for em. The liquid culture is probably gonna contam. Lots of info on surface moister here like this thread. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/23999053#23999053
So after mixing spawn and coir I should lower temp, introduce light and FAE? I thought that I should incubate the mycelium another 10 days so it will colonize the coir and produce and even pin set?
Just keep your temps around 70. Yeah no need for an incubator. You should read more about what you're getting into. Here's a good place to start. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/24144021 Look at his search engine TEK most of your ?'s have already been answered. There's also a link in my last reply about surface moister, FAE and light.
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
Posts: 78
Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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Quote:
herbnmyco said:
Quote:
CVIEnergyCore said:
Quote:
herbnmyco said: Why are you gonna "incubate" your tub? Fruiting from spawn will probably get you pins faster and light is good for em. The liquid culture is probably gonna contam. Lots of info on surface moister here like this thread. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/23999053#23999053
So after mixing spawn and coir I should lower temp, introduce light and FAE? I thought that I should incubate the mycelium another 10 days so it will colonize the coir and produce and even pin set?
Just keep your temps around 70. Yeah no need for an incubator. You should read more about what you're getting into. Here's a good place to start. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/24144021 Look at his search engine TEK most of your ?'s have already been answered. There's also a link in my last reply about surface moister, FAE and light.
ok 70F after I mix up spawn/substrate. Got it. Do you run a unmodified tub or go with the holes?
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
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I fucked up and bought coco Fiber. Not Coco Coir. Put my order in today. Should come this week. As soon as it arrives I will pasteurize and mix my spawn/substrate
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Caps McGee
Grandaddy Smurfshack
Registered: 10/28/17
Posts: 14,357
Loc: ally known as ...
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Straight coir, no verm, no casing, unmodified tubs... ftw
Also, 8qt spawn to 16qt coir is a 1:2 ratio, as 16 is twice 8... 1:3 ratio for 8qt spawn would require 24qt coir (3 bricks)... ratios are not percentages; think of it as "parts"... 8 to 16 is 1 part spawn to 2 parts sub mix (coir only in this and many cases) and thus represents a 1:2(read 1 to 2) ratio
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
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Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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Quote:
Caps McGee said: Straight coir, no verm, no casing, unmodified tubs... ftw
Also, 8qt spawn to 16qt coir is a 1:2 ratio, as 16 is twice 8... 1:3 ratio for 8qt spawn would require 24qt coir (3 bricks)... ratios are not percentages; think of it as "parts"... 8 to 16 is 1 part spawn to 2 parts sub mix (coir only in this and many cases) and thus represents a 1:2(read 1 to 2) ratio
Thank you!! Didn't understand that part very well. I have 2 600 gram coir bricks coming. Both rye bags are completely colonized. I FINISHED my monotub today. Once the coir arrives I will pasteurize with boiling water. Mix the spawn and coir and fruit the tub. Almost there! I'm going to upload some pictures of today's work!
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Caps McGee
Grandaddy Smurfshack
Registered: 10/28/17
Posts: 14,357
Loc: ally known as ...
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Yeah man...
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CVIEnergyCore
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Registered: 10/26/18
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Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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So I have a large monotub. 110 qt tub. I placed three holes on each of the long sides. One hole on top on each side by the handle. Standard monotub design. I also use micropore tape instead of polyfill. Found a tek and it seemed to work well for the guy. So I will try it out.
Anyway just waiting on the coir to get here and I will fruit the tubs. I keep all my mycology supplies in the boxes so it's hidden and it's clean and organized.
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