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I have been successful with using wbs quart jars for awhile. But for my last couple batches of twenty quarts jars, i have gotten green mold in almost all of them.
My current Procedure: The WBS is soaked for 12-24 hours and then drained for 1/2 hour to an hour. Then it is PCed for 1 hour and 45 minutes. With my batches i have varied time in PC from an hour to two hours just to see if there was a difference. From there they are allowed to cool until the next afternoon. Which i have either injected with spores and i have used liquid mycelium. The spores were bought from ralph. And then they are finally placed in a tubintub incubator.
Couple of questions: 1.Does green mold do better in higher(85) or lower temperature(77 F)?
2.Would rust on a lid of a jar contribute to green mold? (the lids are soaked in bleach and so are the rims)
3.Is there anyways to kill mold that is already present in the jars which is also showing mycelium growth?
4.Can mold skip from jar to jar in the incubator while they are colonizing?
You dont have to answer all these questions. Im always welcome to hear everyones opinion. im just trying to get the bottom of my problem.
1. I think it does better at 85, but have never heard of temperature making or breaking a mold situation. 2. Rust can help out some bacteria, but I'm unsure about mold. 3. There are some techniques for 'decontaminating' a cake that's already colonized but might have a wisp or two of mold. I don't think you can selectively stop the mold, so the mycelium has to already be near the finish line. In any case, these treatments are no guarantee against an established mold infection. Dilute bleach, peroxide, salt. . . 4. It's possible, especially if the mold is really allowed to colonize the top of the jar, and the filter situation is not the greatest on the nearby jars.
The first thing I'd really focus on is the filter mechanism in the jars. Has the rust maybe created tiny air-flow spaces, due to its rough surface? Is your filter itself [whatever it might be] intact and looking strong? The next suggestion would be to establish a space where the PC can drop pressure and cool in 'clean air'. The combination of intact, solid jar filter schemes and a properly-cooled pressure cooker are a big step in combating mold. The place/box where you innoculate should be checked out as well. Remember mold is more 'airborne', so keep 'air-cleanliness' in mind. Lastly, keep one or two jars aside as negative controls. Do nothing but shake and incubate the first. Do everything you would except innoculate the second ['fake innoculate']. If these controls end up being a clean, they can still be innoculated later. Good luck
Just to add to number 1 that temperature is also a germination and growth parameter for any contaminant and should be considered mainly for identification purposes in this case or similar cases. It's worthless trying to change the temperature as many molds grow in the same temperature range mycelium does.