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InvisibleFooMan
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: Intersect]
    #18528739 - 07/08/13 06:40 AM (10 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Intersect said:
Sorry to cause a fuss over everyones different interpretation of my question.




No biggie bro. It should have never caused a fuss at all. You can PM BlueHelix directly. I haven't seen him around much, but I don't think he's disappeared altogether.


--------------------

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OfflineIntersect
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: FooMan]
    #18650583 - 08/02/13 05:21 PM (10 years, 8 months ago)

Just to update, i attempted several bags of coir/verm/coffee with wbs.  PC'd for 4 hours, knocked up with 60cc of lc...  all bags started to colonize, but i had an intervening life moment wherein all bags had to be tossed.

I will be attempting this again, and will start a new thread with pics soon...

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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. *DELETED* [Re: Intersect]
    #18656364 - 08/03/13 10:03 PM (10 years, 8 months ago)

Post deleted by Blue Helix

Reason for deletion: Misread this thread.  This was already answered.


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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: Blue Helix] * 1
    #18656396 - 08/03/13 10:12 PM (10 years, 8 months ago)

Also, here is the formula redone with some volume measurements.  This makes about 38 final pounds, which fills 4 super large spawn bags or 7 regular large spawn bags.  Since this mix contains about 12.5 pounds nutritive dry matter, 100% BE, a typical good cubensis yield, would yield 1.2 cracker dry pounds (545 g) pounds or 12.5 pounds wet.  A good yield of pan cyans runs closer to 60%, which would mean this substrate would yield 7.5 pounds wet or 0.75 pounds (340 g) cracker dry.  That's a lot of mushrooms (thousands in the case an pan cyans), so you might want to reduce the recipe according to your needs/expertise.  Here it is:

10 lbs manure/straw (horse manure is better than cow because it's lighter unless it's a grass-fed cow.  Straw is often in the mix as they line the barn floors with it.  Straw speeds things up but reduces density a bit.)
2.5 lbs dry (uncooked) wild bird seed (other grains like rye are fine too)
3 gallon  water (any water is fine)
5 liter  vermiculite (coarse is better but any will work)

The amount of vermiculite that will work is highly variable.  Hell, you could do fine without it if you are using hay/straw-fed horse manure or if there is a lot of straw in the mix to lighten it up.  Removing it in a substrate that is pretty dense will probably slow down the colonization time of the bag in most cases because more airy substrates tend to colonize a lot faster. 

Speaking of colonization time, my bags usually colonize in 3 to 5 days to grey (recently I had bags finish in 3 days that had more straw than usual) and finish flushing out white in about 7 days.  If you are seeing times way in excess of this, you are probably doing something wrong or supplementing with some funky stuff (keep it simple stupid). 

Also, when you are storing really big bags to colonize, the ambient temperature should be in the low to mid 70s (F) and always store the bags apart from each other, preferably on wire racks because otherwise the core temperatures can soar and if the core temperature gets too high, it'll ruin everything.

Water content is critical if you want to maximize yield.  Even 10% off 65% moisture content either too high or low, can give poor yields of only a hundred mushrooms or less per couple cubic feet (given a substrate depth of 2" to 3" for cubensis or 1.25" to 2" for pan cyans).  Unless you have done this a dozen or so times and are in some real hurry, you should measure the water content by taking 20 grams of full-mixed substrate, microwave it for about five minutes on a paper plate until it is bone dry (but not burnt), and the reweigh.  It should weight about 7 grams.  If it is under 6 or over 8, you should add dry material or water respectively and try again.  Take your time and do it right!

Edited by Blue Helix (08/05/13 12:35 PM)

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OfflineBlue Helix
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Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: Blue Helix]
    #18672800 - 08/07/13 11:02 AM (10 years, 8 months ago)

I was trying to find a place online that sells stainless steel needles that are appropriate for this tek.  I recommend the 140ml Luer Lock syringe and a stainelss steel needle (do not get the plastic junk) no less than 3" and at least 14 gauge, although I like 12 better, especially with cubensis because they can clump pretty bad in the LC.  Here is a place that sells all of that: 

http://syringesupplies.com/

They are definitely not the cheapest place for the syringe (you can find them for $10 other places), but you'll have a hard time finding a 3" 12 gauge stainless steel needle in quantities of one or two anywhere, period.  And you really will want a stainless steel needle because the plastic top screw-in ones always separate eventually from the metal needle right when you are trying to use them as they weaken from the repeated pressure cooking.

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Offlinetrippiehippy
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: Blue Helix]
    #18731915 - 08/20/13 11:53 AM (10 years, 7 months ago)

So with this tek, one would inject right into the bag? Now after we inject the bag and allow it to fully become colonized, we would place in trays at 1/12" to 2" deep layers? And would we need a hpoo layer on top of this?

Sorry it has been a few years since I was last on here, so I'm updating my brain. lol

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OfflineFunnyLight
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: trippiehippy]
    #18734497 - 08/20/13 09:36 PM (10 years, 7 months ago)

You are correct that we inject directly into the bag. Wait for colonization then transfer over into trays.

Once the fully colonized substrate is packed into trays it's a good idea to let them rest a couple days to recover from the transfer. The amount of time you let rest really depends on how active your mycelium is. If it's a slow lazy colonizer, then wait a bit longer. Quicker and more aggressive? react the same!

Don't put on any more fresh uncolonized substrate once you transfer to the trays. A casing layer may be added, but no substrate.

Best of luck with the update! :smile:


--------------------
The most powerful drive through the ascent of man, is pleasure in his own skill.
J. Bronowski

Home of delicious "Psychedelic Nyotaimori".
Thanks Lemmingp for that.

:mushroom2::grin::mushroom2:

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OfflineRobert Fortune
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: Blue Helix]
    #18843479 - 09/15/13 06:11 AM (10 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Blue Helix said:
Also, here is the formula redone with some volume measurements.  This makes about 38 final pounds, which fills 4 super large spawn bags or 7 regular large spawn bags.  Since this mix contains about 12.5 pounds nutritive dry matter, 100% BE, a typical good cubensis yield, would yield 1.2 cracker dry pounds (545 g) pounds or 12.5 pounds wet.  A good yield of pan cyans runs closer to 60%, which would mean this substrate would yield 7.5 pounds wet or 0.75 pounds (340 g) cracker dry.  That's a lot of mushrooms (thousands in the case an pan cyans), so you might want to reduce the recipe according to your needs/expertise.  Here it is:

10 lbs manure/straw (horse manure is better than cow because it's lighter unless it's a grass-fed cow.  Straw is often in the mix as they line the barn floors with it.  Straw speeds things up but reduces density a bit.)
2.5 lbs dry (uncooked) wild bird seed (other grains like rye are fine too)
3 gallon  water (any water is fine)
5 liter  vermiculite (coarse is better but any will work)

The amount of vermiculite that will work is highly variable.  Hell, you could do fine without it if you are using hay/straw-fed horse manure or if there is a lot of straw in the mix to lighten it up.  Removing it in a substrate that is pretty dense will probably slow down the colonization time of the bag in most cases because more airy substrates tend to colonize a lot faster. 

Speaking of colonization time, my bags usually colonize in 3 to 5 days to grey (recently I had bags finish in 3 days that had more straw than usual) and finish flushing out white in about 7 days.  If you are seeing times way in excess of this, you are probably doing something wrong or supplementing with some funky stuff (keep it simple stupid). 

Also, when you are storing really big bags to colonize, the ambient temperature should be in the low to mid 70s (F) and always store the bags apart from each other, preferably on wire racks because otherwise the core temperatures can soar and if the core temperature gets too high, it'll ruin everything.

Water content is critical if you want to maximize yield.  Even 10% off 65% moisture content either too high or low, can give poor yields of only a hundred mushrooms or less per couple cubic feet (given a substrate depth of 2" to 3" for cubensis or 1.25" to 2" for pan cyans).  Unless you have done this a dozen or so times and are in some real hurry, you should measure the water content by taking 20 grams of full-mixed substrate, microwave it for about five minutes on a paper plate until it is bone dry (but not burnt), and the reweigh.  It should weight about 7 grams.  If it is under 6 or over 8, you should add dry material or water respectively and try again.  Take your time and do it right!




Hello Blue Helix,

I have a few questions:

1. What is your poo/straw ratio? 

2. Have you ever tried Black Kow compost? if so is it worth it?

3. Why don't you pre-wash your grain?

4. I don't have a digital scale, is there any other way to estimate moisture content?

Thanks so much for your help!

RF

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OfflineRobert Fortune
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: Blue Helix]
    #18843482 - 09/15/13 06:14 AM (10 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Blue Helix said:
I was trying to find a place online that sells stainless steel needles that are appropriate for this tek.  I recommend the 140ml Luer Lock syringe and a stainelss steel needle (do not get the plastic junk) no less than 3" and at least 14 gauge, although I like 12 better, especially with cubensis because they can clump pretty bad in the LC.  Here is a place that sells all of that: 

http://syringesupplies.com/

They are definitely not the cheapest place for the syringe (you can find them for $10 other places), but you'll have a hard time finding a 3" 12 gauge stainless steel needle in quantities of one or two anywhere, period.  And you really will want a stainless steel needle because the plastic top screw-in ones always separate eventually from the metal needle right when you are trying to use them as they weaken from the repeated pressure cooking.




I'm confused about the syringe part. To me it sounds like your are pressure cooking the syringes.  Why? 

Thanks!

RF

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Invisiblemaddchef
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: Robert Fortune]
    #18843492 - 09/15/13 06:28 AM (10 years, 6 months ago)

To ensure sterile syringes to work with.


--------------------
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All mushrooms are edible, but some only once.....                     

                                        Easier than cakes

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OfflineRobert Fortune
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: maddchef]
    #18843615 - 09/15/13 07:56 AM (10 years, 6 months ago)

Thanks!  Should have figured that out. 

So now we have cleanable needles.

Stupid question part 2:

How do you maintain the plastic syringe?  Do you just throw them away after each use? I ask because the 140cc versions are kind of expensive.

Thanks!

RF

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Invisiblemaddchef
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Re: Where to get huge syringes and a stainless steel needle that will last? [Re: Robert Fortune]
    #18843625 - 09/15/13 08:01 AM (10 years, 6 months ago)

You can pc the plastic ones as well. Just wrap in foil.


--------------------
In the land of the blind, the one eyed man is king.

All mushrooms are edible, but some only once.....                     

                                        Easier than cakes

I do science and shit.

:havesomescience:

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Offlineinvitro


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coir/verm/grain percentages? [Re: Blue Helix]
    #19376907 - 01/06/14 11:28 AM (10 years, 3 months ago)

Can someone recommend a good mix for coir/coffee/verm/grains with percentage of water desired when it's fully mixed?

When using coir in bags do they need to be hydrated first?  If so
will cold water be enough?


If your going to mix the bag up after inoculation why is it important to get a 3" syringe needle? 

Edited by invitro (01/06/14 09:38 PM)

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InvisibleJohnnyWonder
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: VancouverNoob]
    #23560717 - 08/20/16 06:04 PM (7 years, 7 months ago)

I know this thread is old, but when I was researching bags, I thought that an impulse sealer was excessive and I read that the heating elements go out frequently, not to mention, they cost money for the electricity.  So I found these Clip-n-Seal sticks that provide a relatively air-tight seal.  I say "relatively" bc how truly airtight is anything?  But it is airtight enough to work relatively perfectly, provided everything else is done right.  It took forever to find what I was looking for as the search terms I was using weren't right, but I finally located what I envisioned on Amazon and sure enough, they existed.  They are currently out of stock, there, but are listed on the company's website.

The "mondo" size is perfect and will give 40 total clamps that are perfect size for the largest myco-bag.  Expensive initial investment, especially if you need more than 40 clampls, but much cheaper in the long run bc they can be reused indefinitely which makes cheaper bc there is no heating element to replace or electricity to pay for.  I just dip them in a 10% bleach solution in between grows for good measure.

Oh, DO NOT PC with the clamp.


Mondo 10–Pack: $44.99
[clip-n-seal.com/pp_cart.html]http://clip-n-seal.com/pp_cart.ht

Hope that helps advance simplification of the bag tech.  ;-)

Edited by george castanza (08/20/16 06:15 PM)

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Invisiblegeorge castanzaM
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: JohnnyWonder]
    #23560752 - 08/20/16 06:19 PM (7 years, 7 months ago)

You cannot link a product if a sponsor sells a similar product. I removed the clickability so if anyone wants to check out your spam they must copy and paste.

Please do not bump anymore old ass threads and definitely don't link products that compete with sponsors.

Thanks


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Offlinemushpunx
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: george castanza]
    #23561807 - 08/21/16 12:11 AM (7 years, 7 months ago)



If you dont own an impulse sealer I think folding/twisting the top of the bags and using a zip tie or tie wire is the better option.
Actually I prefer this to my impulse sealer right now because my desk is small.

The clips are fine Im sure but zip ties are cheap


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OfflineButterlemon22
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: jarroddupont]
    #24855971 - 12/19/17 02:19 PM (6 years, 3 months ago)

Hi thanks  for all ur info  but i have one question what happens if u buy a bag of pre sterilized  spawn bag  ? I don't own a pressure cooker I wanna grow my blue oysters  mushroom  to eat with my salad n.n

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OfflineBlue Helix
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: Butterlemon22]
    #25413544 - 08/25/18 10:33 PM (5 years, 7 months ago)

A pre-sterilized bag is fine, but I have a question: why no pressure cooker?  They are not expensive or hard to use after all.  A 21-quart pressure cooker NEW runs about $70 online.

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Offlineyakdoff
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Re: A pictorial to use spawn bags to grow pounds of mushrooms! No HEPA required. [Re: Blue Helix]
    #25464994 - 09/16/18 04:25 PM (5 years, 6 months ago)

Dear Blue Helix,

This thread you've started and supported so thoroughly is fantastic. Thank you for your generosity and dedication. I am a chemist so the detail you've given is a true relief.

My goal is extraction of the active component(s) and recrystalization for quantitative microdosing. I would like to discuss the pre-sterilized "myco bags" with substrate vs. the in-house preparation you describe. The effort (multiple substrate component sourcing as well as the actual prep. method) and costs ($75 for a T-fal 22 quart pressure cooker, bags, substrate components etc.) of in-house preparation seem sufficient to warrant examination of the alternative (especially for first-timers like me with my stated goal.) I understand Basidiomycota are not lignicolous but the pre-sterilized myco bags I've found have an unstated moisture content and portion of "shredded hardwood" in addition to manure, peat moss, and vermiculite:

"...fully composted and aged manure, peat moss, vermiculite, and finally shredded hardwood mulch. It has a rich black color and smells great! There are no bad odors from the manure. It has been fully aged and broken down. We have added the appropriate amount of moisture and calcium carbonate for optimal growth and correct PH." (mycohaus.com)

Do you think this wood would be a problem for P. cub.? What about the unstated moisture content? What about the lack of grain? Do you know of a source for more appropriate pre-sterilized bags?

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