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OfflineEdge
I like plants


Registered: 04/12/03
Posts: 972
Loc: Machu Pichu
Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! * 2
    #6670105 - 03/14/07 07:22 PM (17 years, 9 days ago)

If anybody notices problems or misinformation, please correct me.  If anybody has a problem with me including information or teks that they have provided let me know so I can remove it. If the mods think this shouldn't be here or it isn't wanted here, please let me know and tell me where to put it. Check this out and lemme know what you think! Comments and suggestions are appreciated, lemme know what you think about this, and they will keep this post active for its information within.  Thanks!!  Been a long time since I started showing my face around this website again.  Many positive things have happened here since then, as well as changes, and my friend and I hope this will develop to be one of them in the long run.

All of the information here was found on the shroomery, the polyfil section is part shroomery/other website information and part observation and hypothesis. The main points are split into sections and bolded/italics so they stand out so you can just skim this article for the info you are looking for. Wish I could cite all of it, but I'm not gonna re-look all of this stuff up for every little fact. What am I crazy?? :tongue:

The goal here is to compile lots of floating information into a single place, as to raise awareness to the different types of polyfil and their properties.

Table of Contents
1) The Monotub Setup
2) FAE
3) Casings and Cakes
---Why case?
---Brf/verm vs. grains
---Crumble and case pf cakes
---PF tek
---Cold shocking
---Dunk and rolling
---Grain Prep general rule
---Rye tek
---WBS tek
---Millet tek
---Popcorn Tek
---Even pinning
---50/50+ tek
4) Common Casing and Cake concerns/questions
5) Polyfil
6) Rye Cakes!?!
7) Straw Logs!
8) What is a hyphal knot?
Soon to come
-Deep scratching vs. not deep scratching experiment (link)
-More questions in section 4 as I think of them/see them
-More pics in general
-Sterilizing vs/ pasteurizing casing
-New Section on Common Grain and Brf/Verm Jar Colonization Questions
-Incubator teks
-And hopefully more


Keep on the lookout for new sections and more information that fill in the gaps and expand the ground cover of this post. 



1)The Monotub Setup

The Monotub is a very effective and cheap setup, concieved by one of our own and can be found here.  It eliminates the need for fanning, and automates FAE (Fresh Air Exchange). 
My friends portabella/white button monotub is a bit modified from this one, it is used for fruiting a number of smaller casings and cakes rather than one very large bulk casing. He also increased the number of holes for FAE and their sizes.  To do this, he drilled a total of 16 one and a half inch holes about seven inches apart measured form the hole's edges, not their centers.  MAKE SURE that the bottom edge of your bottom holes are roughly 1 inch from the bottom of your fruiting chamber so when you add pearlite it isn't spilling out the holes.  You want the pearlite to be relatively level and come right up to the bottom of the holes to allow the escape of carbon dioxide.  When adding pearlite, put dry pearlite in a strainer and run a faucet over it, thoroughly wetting it all.  Then let it drain to a drip, and place it in the fruiting chamber and spread it out evenly to the bottoms of the holes.  When you place your individual casings in your fruiting chamber make sure there is space between each other and the fruiting chamber walls so the water in the pearlite can transpire into the air above it.  Some people here like to add hydrogen peroxide to the pearlite as a precaution, but my friend has never done this and has never had contaminated pearlite, just dont put it in there sopping wet and slushy.  The basic idea for more and bigger holes is to supply far more than enough FAE as if it were just sitting out there in a humid environment naturally.  To do this with any size tub, drill as many holes 6-8 inches apart.  No holes are drilled in the top.  Adding a small fan in the room, SET TO LOW, where your fruiting chamber is ensures air flow, but do not point it directly at your chamber.



2)FAE

Fresh Air Exchange was my friends first very big mistake when it came to supplying fruiting conditions, he could never get his casings to fruit, and they eventually contaminated, reguardless of optimal humidity levels, light, and temperatures (about 75 degrees F) and I believe it was from insufficient FAE, too much CO2.  FAE is very important because our mycelium is areobic, it wants oxygen and discharges carbon dioxide.  This above monotub setup allows for the inflow of oxygen and outflow of carbon dioxide.  CO2 is heavier than oxygen, nitrogen, and other gasses and sinks.  The holes on top allow these gasses to come in, pushing the carbon dioxide at the bottom of your chamber out the bottom holes, as long as the holes are 6-8 inches apart.

Without FAE, a fruiting chamber exceeds preferable CO2 levels, less than about 5000 parts per million (ppm).  The continual buildup of CO2 shifts the fruiting chamber environment in favor of anaerobic organisms such as bacteria and other types of mold that will cause contamination.  In addition to insufficient FAE, oxygen levels drop, literally suffocating the mycelium netowrk.  The combination of these two problems reguarding FAE seem to be the one of the most common reasons for people here with casings and cakes that don't pin.



3)Casings and Cakes

There are many different ways to grow mushrooms of all types. The most basic way around here is the method and process layed out in the "pf tek". PF i believe is an abbreviation for an old website that originally provided the tek, but was shut down because of the illegal usage of the tek. TEK is a word used to stand for "technique", "process", "steps", "article", etc... for growing mushrooms. Anything with the word "pf tek" refers to edible or illegal mushrooms, depending on who says it, that are grown on brown rice flour/vermiculite substrate "cakes" (substrate=mushroom/mycelium "Food").

-Wanna do cakes? See the brown rice flour/verm cake teks, refer to the pf tek here or the pf tek for simple minds here.

-To learn about the dunk and roll technique, go here.  Dunking and rolling your cakes before birthing them increases their yield by providing maximum moisture to your mushrooms/mycelium and increasing the number of suitable places for pinning.  To dunk a cake, leave it in the jar, scrape the top dry layer of verm (its okay if there is whispy mycelium being scraped too) with a clean spoon, preferably sterilized (doesn't have to be) and fill the jar up with distilled water/spring water with the cake still in it.  Place the lid back on the jar (make sure your holes are covered!) and place in the fridge for about 24 hours.  This is called "cold shocking" via refridgerator, it often initiates fruiting on cakes and casings, but there is much debate about it when it comes to using it for casings.  The main reason why this is done while dunking is so that bacteria do not grow overnight in your water filled soaking cake jar.  It is said if you cold shock a casing in the refridgerator (you don't have to dunk it) that it sometimes initiates pinning sooner, sometimes later, but often leads to a longer time between flushes.

-A decent cold shock article by Hyphae can be found here.

-For a good crumble and case pf cake tek, refer to Joshua and Azurepower's tek here.  A modification should be made here, in step 6 it says to lighty pat down your casing layer.  You DO NOT want to do this.  You want your casing to be "fluffy", not matted/patted.  In addition you can use your casing layer material as a "bottom layer" instead of vermiculite.  You also don't have to sterilize your casing material, pasteurizing works too and is favored by many pros here.

Another big reason for pinning problems is the moisture content of your substrate and casing layer.  In addition, matted down casing layers is another problem, causing difficulty for mycelium growth and lack of "peaks and valleys" essential for a good pinset.  These valleys provide microenvironments perfect for hyphal knot and pin formation.  Generally the more peaks and valleys you have in a "fluffy" casing layer that isn't overlayed, the more pins you will have.  Notice I said generally...

-For proper casing and even pinning technique, see Hyphae's pinning strategy here

There are a variety of substrates to use for casings.  The substrate is the material that has been colonized in jars by mycelium.  You can "crumble and case" brf/verm PF cakes, or case whole grains such as Organic Rye Berries, Millet, Popcorn, and Birdseed.  My friend and I really love rye, but all of these grains work very well.  The benefit to using whole grains to brf/verm is that they contain more nutrients, which lead to larger yields.

So why case instead of use cakes?  Casing vs. cakes is a common topic here.  Cakes are easier to cultivate while usually producing smaller and fewer flushes than casings.  In addition, casings provide protection and moisture to the colonized substrate and, therefore, the mycelium as well.  This generally leads to more flushes overall on casings than cakes.  However, casings raise the chances of contamination, but if done right as suggested by links and information in this post, contamination should not be a very large problem until the casing is pretty old (the pH level will have dropped).  This is a very big reason why people avoid doing the casing dive, but should not be so concerned about it.

So how about Casing with BRF/verm vs. rye/millet/etc?  BRF/verm half pint jars take longer to colonize than a 1 quart jar of whole grains like rye or millet.  Also, whole grains tend to have more nutrients and tend to give bigger yields than pf cakes/casings.  On the other hand, it is usually difficult to fruit a "cake" of whole grains, so they are usually directly cased or spawned to a bulk substrate such as horse shit, straw, or worm castings.

-A NOTE ON GRAIN PREP.  When using grains, moisture content is the most important part.  To achieve maximum moisture content while simmering for grains such as rye, WBS, millet, etc, always simmer gently.  Think of it as if you are cooking rice.  You dont want the grains to explode, you just want them to soak up water as much as possible.  This means when a few (5-10%) grains have popped you are as close to optimal moisture content you will get.

-For proper and proven rye preparation, refer to Magash's rye bitches tek here.    It is very easy and straightforward.  He has a hell of a fruiting setup, one that many of us may not be able to obtain and/or use.  A simpler one such as a monotub works well too.  One thing about Magash's tek my friend does not do is use coir/verm as a casing layer.  It has been said here that coir contains nutrients for our little friends, and it is also said that you DON'T want nutrients in your casing layer.  I am not bashing coir, many have had success using it and it works.  But to my understanding, as to many others here, a peat/verm 50/50+ casing layer is more appropriate as a casing layer being that it is relatively un-nutritiative for our little friends.  This means that the mycelium will not colonize the casing layer as if it were a substrate, and more like the ground's surface in a forest or field.  In addition verm/coir tends to colonize very quickly leading to higher chances of overlay if you aren't experienced with casings.  On the other hand, coir stays much more fluffy than peat and does not mat down as easily.  This is a huge benefit for the mycelium network, making it easier for it to grow upward through the casing layer.  Also, coir is not as acidic as peat, making it easier to manage the pH, usually no adjustment is needed.

-For proper WBS (Wild Birdseed) preparation
, check out Doc's tek here

-For Millet Just use the birdseed tek WBS is millet, usually just different types.  When you buy "Millet" it is basically the same as WBS.

-For proper popcorn preparation
refer to Deviant's popcorn tek here.

-For proper peat/verm 50/50+ casing recipie, see Ryche Hawk's 50/50 tek here.  An alternative recipie, using the same ratios as the 50/50+ tek, my friend has calculated for smaller amounts of casing for filling 4-5 quart jars is:
4 cups of medium grade vermiculite (small chunks, not the sandy type).  I find that this type allows for a fluffier casing layer with more prominent peaks and valleys.
4 cups of Scotts peat moss
Roughly 1.2 cups of crushed oyster shell--can be found in petstores as a vitamin supplement to bird feed.  Crushed oyster shell allows for the slow regulation of pH levels.
Roughly 1 1/8 TEASPOON of hydrated lime.  Be very careful not to use more than this, hydrated lime heavily influences pH but only in the short-run.
About 2 2/3 cups of water.  This amount of water does not reflect the amount that should be used in Ryche's tek.  This is because Scotts peat moss already comes kinda moist, and my friend adjusted water content accordingly.  Once everything is mixed up, give your 50/50+ a firm squeeze.  If water drains out, let it drain out.  What you are looking for is more like a very light drip.  Moisture content can always be raised later by misting.  In addition
--A note on misting:
  Mist casings very lightly and indirectly about 2 times a day.  Also, it is not recommended by many to continue misting once pins form.  This is because when a pin is hit by a droplet of mist it increases its chances to abort.  For proper misting, leave casings in the fruiting chamber.  Point your mist nozzle so when it sprays it sprays UP and OVER your fruiting chamber walls from the outside, so that the mist falls gently into your chamber and onto your casings.  Try to make it simulate gentle misting rainfall in a tropical forest.



4) Common Casing and Cake Concerns and Questions:
---Why fruit at 75 degrees F?  Is it okay to let fruiting temperature drop below 75 degrees F?  A drop in temperature from substrate colonization is essential for initiating pinning.  Some people like to "cold shock" in the fridge, but a temperature drop to 75 degrees or lower is sufficient enough when given patience.  Temperatures can be even lower, they just aren't optimal.  My friend has had casings at about 65-68 degrees F with success it just took longer.  In addition I have read here that some have had success at as low as 60 degrees F, and also once in an outdoor grow ranging between 40-50 degrees F.
---So then what about higher temperatures than 75 degrees F?  Higher temperatures, more than 78 degrees F makes the mycelium think it is still growing season and not fruiting season if they were in the wild.  Although it is still possible to fruit at higher temperatures, it is often not easy and certainly not optimal.
---What about relative humidity (RH) for casings?  The optimal RH for casings is often reported to be about 95% for mycelium growth and 83-90% when pins show up.  However, higher RH is still OK for either and will still work, it is just not optimal.  Also, a lower RH will increase your chances of your casing layer to dry out, which is a big no-no.  Do not be as concerned with having too much RH, worry more about having too low RH.
---Is the temperature and RH for pf cakes the same? The temperatures are the same.  The RH should be as close to 100% as possible, especially with cakes that have not been "dunked and rolled".  90% or above will be sufficient enough.
---Do you have to use pearlite or some other form of humidity control for cakes? Yes, usually because you want humidity for cakes to be as close to 100% as possible.
---How about for small casings?  No, but it helps maintain high RH between misting.  It reduces the chances of drying your casing layer out, especially in towns located in dry climates.
---Is fanning sufficient for FAE for cakes and casings?  Yes, if you do it 1-3 times every couple of hours.  It is much more friendly and natural to your mycelium to use a monotub setup for FAE, in addition it lowers chances of contamination.  This type of setup also optimizes natural FAE without a fish tank bubbler.
---I coldshocked my casing/cake for more than 24 hours, is it okay?  It has been said here that a cake has been coldshocked/dunked for 48 hours by accident and it was fine.  I imagine it would be the same for a casing because it is also said that refridgerating a casing or cake just simply slows down the mycelium.  After enough time in the fridge though the mycelium will surely die.
Why is pH so important for verm/peat 50/50 casings?  Peat tends to have small pieces of wood in it reguardless of how much you try to strain it out.  It is also very acidic.  This acidity is an open invitation for contams to come and colonize the casing layer, being that the small pieces of wood and the peat itself contain nutrients that contams can use, but not our mycelium.  Also, a too high or too low pH makes it unsuitable for mycelium often preventing its growth through the casing layer.
---Is overlay bad? It depends on how you look at it.  Pinning will still happen, sometimes even surprisingly well.  However, overlay destroys the point of a casing layer, moisture supply and protection.  It also GENERALlY gives poor pinsets and a small number of flushes because you cannot rehydrate the casing layer and the "peaks and valleys" are not present.  It is said here that this is not always the case.  Many people have had very good flushes with overlayed casing layers.  Do not stress over an overlayed casing, it will still fruit when in the right fruiting environment for casings.  Many do not support "deep scratching" an overlayed casing, and reports have been done on it as to why you shouldn't do it (link to come soon)
---Should I add a casing layer underneath and above my substrate or just on top?  This is debated by many because both methods have pros and cons.  A top and bottom casing allows for drainage and better moisture control when too much moisture is given to your casings, the bottom layer absorbs it.  On the other hand, many say this increases your chance of contamination since contams like to eat casing layers with a pH in favor of them, a single casing layer works just as well.  My friend likes to add a layer on the top and bottom though as a support.



5) Polyfil
It appears to me that many learning people here get confused about the concept of polyfil, or maybe never heard of it.  I didn't understand what it was, what it did, or why it was used.  I also had no idea where to find it.

So, what the hell is it?  Polyfil is a polymer, basically a very long chain of molecules called monomers locked together.  Polymers can be found in just about ANYTHING plastic and then some--from glue to plastics to bullet proof vests.  Polyfil is a polymer that is commonly used for pillow or stuffed animal stuffing, or it is used as type of animal bedding or fish tank filter. 
Why do you want do use it?  You want to use it because when stuffed in the holes of a monotub, or in the hole in the lid of a jar, it allows for gas exchange/FAE exchange while keeping humidity in and contams out.  It is a really simple and cheap tool (about 3 bucks for a huge bag of it) for maximizing FAE effectively.  In addition, it can be removed from random holes spaced away from each other to increase transpiration rate and lowering humidity a little bit, like when pins occur.  You can raise humidity by misting the sides of the fruiting chamber. You'll notice the difference in humidity visually on the fruiting chamber walls after a few hours.  A Great part about it is that you can reuse it without sterilizing as long as it didn't come out of an old pillow or stuffed animal.
How does it keep humidity in and contams out while allowing for FAE?
Water molecules and contam spores/airborne bacteria are larger than gasseous air molecules such as oxygen and carbon dioxide.  Polyfil, when stuffed, acts as a filter device with spaces just large enough for the fresh air to come in and out but with spaces too small for contams or water particles to get out.

There are two main types of polyfil used because of their two most common places for finding it; the polyfil from petstores and the polyfil from craft stores like Michael's.  Here is what they look like side by side:

On the left side we have your pet store brand, on the right is your hobby/craft brand.  Notice a difference in fluffyness?

How about now?


The first one is the pet store brand, the second the hobby/craft store brand.

Notice how much more airy the hobby/craft brand is compared to the matted looking petstore brand.  Each of these give different results in humidity and FAE.  For starters, I prefer the hobby/craft store brand.  Here's why: it is more fluffy and airy allowing for more FAE and greater control over humidity.  The more FAE there is, the greater the rate of transpiration and regulation of humidity.  In other words it doesnt let the humidity inside your fruiting chamber get all soppy wet, which isn't bad, but also isn't optimal for casings.

You can visually see the difference in humidity and FAE between the two here.  The top fruiting chamber has the petstore brand, the bottom one has the hobby/craft brand:


Notice the circled area and how you can visually see the patch under that hole where lots of transpiration on the walls are occuring.  This is happening for all holes in the bottom fruiting chamber, although the picture doesn't show it, because of the fluffier and more airy properties of the craft/hobby brand polyfil.  Notice the lack of that in the above fruiting chamber and the greater amount of moisture on the walls.  Also notice how it seems the humidity, especially in the top one, is "too much" for casings :tongue2:, but that is OKAY :thumbup: just not optimal.  My friend has found that the combination of proper misting habits, pearlite water content, and the use of craft/hobby polyfil gives the closest to optimum humidity and FAE for casings, when at 75-68F temperatures, before pinning as a cheap and effective setup.  The above pictures do not represent this because my friend misted way to heavily one day by accident, this was fixed by removing the polyfil from the holes for a few hours which cleared up the humidity to a more appropriate level, and then replacing the polyfil.  After pinning occurs, humidity can be effectively dropped and maintained by removing the polyfil from 3-5 holes.  If it gets too low you can always SPRAY THE WALLS LIGHTLY (NOT THE CASINGS) and restuff the holes to raise it a little. Bottom line, you can use either brand, it is mostly a matter of preference BOTH will work for casings OR cakes, the craft/store brand just seems to have much greater airflow and thus a greater transpiration rate.  Generally the more air flow without loosing humidity the better.  You do not loose more humidity with either one of them, its just that the more inflow of dryer air takes longer to get moistened by the moisture within the fruiting chamber.



6) The Radical Rye Cake

The trial run by TM can be found here.  Okay okay so its not REALLY a cake, its more like the pf cakes fat assed cousin who needs more leg support in order to stand up... the cousin that links cakes and casings.  This is a really cool idea.  It would work in a monotub too!  This is generally a modified and more sophisticated "dunk and roll" technique, but it is also considered somewhat as a casing.  Heres a couple pics from it in timeline fashion:






7)RR the Skypilot's Sexy Straw Logs

My friend and I think straw logs are awesome.  The tek pertaining to this was posted here by Roger Rabbit and is very easy.  If you can grow whole grains and cakes, you'll be very successful.  Just look at these edibles!


In addition you can add layers of hpoo, coir, coffee beans, etc for extra nutrients.  If you have logs less than 1 1/2 feet in lenth, you most certainly want to have them in some form of fruiting chamber/martha setup with at least 85% humidity.  My friend made the mistake of not doing this his first try, fruiting them in homemade individual "tents".  Small logs, especially those less than 1 1/2 feet dry out much faster than larger ones.  Also, the "valleys" that straw forms make very good microenvironments for hyphal knots.



8)  Whats a hyphal knot?  Where do you look for them?

"Knotting" is the only visual indicator that will surely tell you your mycelium has begun the pinning process and fruiting cycle.  Hyphal knots are small white dots found most commonly in the valleys of a casing layer or "dunk and roll" layer on a pf cake.  Think of them as a mushroom embryo.  Pic of hyphal knots on the side of a substrate bag by monstermitch:

The white dots are hyphal knots.

Pics by Anno to show the "valleys" and knotting within them.
*They'll be here later

Although they will also form on the top an overlayed casing or anywhere on a naked pf cake, valleys are usually the first and most suitable place they form.



So there you have it.  A simple and cheap setup that is very effective, and a buncha info that is commonly searched for put into one spot.  My friend and I hope this answers many of your questions and provides you with very useful information and links to information you may have been looking for.  We plan on making this post an evolving one.  The more we learn, the more will be added here in as an orderly fashion as possible.

3/15 UPDATE--Questions added to section 4, more informative pf cake section, made section 3 more organized and informative, Grain prep note, added link about cold shocking, added link about crumble/case, millet/WBS/Popcorn teks, Rye Cake "tek".

3/18 UPDATE--Straw logs tek, hyphal knot section,

Edited by Edge (03/18/07 06:03 PM)

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OfflineEdge
I like plants


Registered: 04/12/03
Posts: 972
Loc: Machu Pichu
Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge] * 1
    #6672232 - 03/15/07 10:46 AM (17 years, 8 days ago)

Bumper cars!

Sooo... is this useful to y'all?

Seriously, check it out! Mods, is this okay? Do you think this is better suited for the growlogs forums?


--------------------
Check Out My "A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More!"

"For every action there is a reaction; and a Paykie reaction, is quite a fuckin thing"
--Turkish of Snatch

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Offlinefromthemoon
ESP Major

Registered: 08/02/06
Posts: 353
Last seen: 16 years, 8 months
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #6672336 - 03/15/07 11:19 AM (17 years, 8 days ago)

I like it - thanks for the effort and info!

You cover a lot of ground and topics many posts do not cover (like comparing pet store polyfil vs. craft store polyfil) which should be helpful in searches.

I'm not a mod, but adding helpful information for others to find and search is cool IMHO (as long as the info is good - nothing bothers me more than a newbe tek on how to skip sterility - for example).


--------------------
Look at the atoms in the air and allow your mind to see the other planes that coexists in the same physical space where you sit. There are vibrational strings in each and every atom containing infinite realities, universes, and dimensions. Multidimensional beings and entities are RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU!!! Only gravity and mental energy can pass through these different atomic branes and mushrooms can break the mental/spiritual membranes separating one reality from the other. TAKE A LOOK!

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InvisibleBlutjager
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Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 9,220
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: fromthemoon]
    #6672703 - 03/15/07 12:48 PM (17 years, 8 days ago)

I think that nearly everyone who hasn't read everything on the shroomery TWICE should find at least some of this information useful,5 for you for taking the time to put this together:rockon:

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OfflineEdge
I like plants


Registered: 04/12/03
Posts: 972
Loc: Machu Pichu
Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #6684634 - 03/18/07 06:05 PM (17 years, 5 days ago)

Updates--3/15, 3/18.


--------------------
Check Out My "A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More!"

"For every action there is a reaction; and a Paykie reaction, is quite a fuckin thing"
--Turkish of Snatch

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Offlineatomic1
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #6684775 - 03/18/07 07:06 PM (17 years, 5 days ago)

Nice work.

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Offline_OttO_
Over Stimulated
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Registered: 06/01/05
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Trusted Cultivator
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: atomic1]
    #6769284 - 04/10/07 09:48 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Amazing write up mate - nicely done...! Love to also see a Liquid Culture section in there.

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OfflineEdge
I like plants


Registered: 04/12/03
Posts: 972
Loc: Machu Pichu
Last seen: 12 years, 1 month
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: _OttO_]
    #6769612 - 04/10/07 10:59 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Thanks for the comments. Eventually I would like to include more advanced techniques such as LC, spore print/syringe, outdoor cultivation, and cloning, but first I need to learn about these and experience them myself before relaying information to others.

Your LC tek looks awesome and really straightforward Otto. Thanks for pointing it out to me, I never saw it before. I'm gonna run it by my friend and see what he thinks about it. Surely if he does another edible grow he'll try this out.


--------------------
Check Out My "A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More!"

"For every action there is a reaction; and a Paykie reaction, is quite a fuckin thing"
--Turkish of Snatch

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InvisibleBlutjager
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Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 9,220
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge] * 1
    #6771297 - 04/10/07 05:30 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Before I started using baby bottles I used Otto's lc tek a few times and most of them successfully:thumbup:

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Offlineelzex
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Registered: 01/08/07
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #6814669 - 04/21/07 01:06 AM (16 years, 10 months ago)

I bow to you for posting this

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Offlinetreesniper119
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: elzex]
    #9996269 - 03/18/09 04:32 PM (15 years, 4 days ago)

great work


--------------------
Icelander said: I'd like to fund unlimited abortions. Finally some good coming from my tax dollars.

Repetoire89 said: I love abortion and fully condone it - some should make it into a sport.

Treesniper119 said: Any one who is willing to start life & also willing to deny life to their form/seed/child/offspring is cursed.
For you have severed your own cord to lifes worth.
Anyone who condones these actions is cursed as well...


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OfflineVernus
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #15514861 - 12/14/11 10:34 AM (12 years, 3 months ago)

Epic !
posting to keep an eye on this thread
Thanks


--------------------
:allah:

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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
The Inquisition
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Registered: 01/04/11
Posts: 10,573
Trusted Cultivator
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Vernus]
    #15514880 - 12/14/11 10:38 AM (12 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

Vernus said:
Epic !
posting to keep an eye on this thread
Thanks




You just bumped a 4 year old thread...this guy hasn't even been on the shroomery in like 7 months.
:facepalm:


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
Here is how I get things done.
You should take a look. :hehehe:


Frank's tips and tricks. Updated on 3/21/14
AMU- Get an answer here -AMU

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OfflineVernus
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: FrankHorrigan]
    #15514894 - 12/14/11 10:40 AM (12 years, 3 months ago)

like i said i wanted to keep an eye on it :smile:
besides a good thread is a good thread ... never gets old


--------------------
:allah:

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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
The Inquisition
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Registered: 01/04/11
Posts: 10,573
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Vernus]
    #15514919 - 12/14/11 10:47 AM (12 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

Vernus said:
like i said i wanted to keep an eye on it :smile:
besides a good thread is a good thread ... never gets old




It's full of outdated info...and half the pics are missing.


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
Here is how I get things done.
You should take a look. :hehehe:


Frank's tips and tricks. Updated on 3/21/14
AMU- Get an answer here -AMU

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OfflineLoungeLizard
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Registered: 06/11/17
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Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #24903925 - 01/10/18 08:16 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

I see that "Polyfil" is abundand in the ol' US of A but so far not in my country. I can get a $10 large pillow of "Celliant" ("Holofil"). Will that allow plenty of FAE?

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Offlinedrprobablyno
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Registered: 08/22/18
Posts: 76
Last seen: 3 years, 10 months
Re: A Report w/ pics and links--FAE, RH, Casings, Cakes, Polyfil, And A Simple Setup And More! [Re: Edge]
    #25404919 - 08/22/18 09:54 AM (5 years, 6 months ago)

Wow, thank you. Very comprehensive.

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