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InvisibleJosex
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Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. * 23
    #25137693 - 04/14/18 08:36 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

No-pours are Badass


Almost everybody starts off using no-pours, but it can get old after a while once you have some experience and your workload increases.
The people who after a while decide to switch to disposable petris usually do that for reasons such as:
  • To step up their agar game/increase their workload. 
  • To avoid wasting time on a tedious no-pour prep.
  • For ergonomics.
  • For easy storage and to make the most out of the space available.
  • To avoid wasting time on cleaning reusable containers.
  • For better visibility and to reduce/get rid of condensation.

This guide can't do anything about the last two, no-pours are no-pours after all, they have their pros and their cons.
But this guide will help you if you're in need of increasing your workload and doing a less painful prep.
I'll be showing you the containers I use for this, which are extremely easy to handle and make storage and clasification a breeze.

This guide is also meant for beginners, especially so. I'm sure you'll find here a couple of useful tricks and tips. :wink:

Note: the prep outlined in this guide can be done with any type of container suitable for agar, not only with the ones featured in this guide.



The Ideal Container for No-Pour Agar




Things to look for when choosing containers for no-pour:
  • Ideally, they have be round.
  • They have to be PP5 plastic, cup and lid.
  • Sturdy plastic that allows decent visibility.
  • Snap-on lid that closes fairly tight while allowing easy removal. Ideally the lid must open with an audible nice crack and the same crack should be heard when you close the lid. For that you need relatively thick and rigid plastic.
  • Simple design, avoid unnecessary grooves and marks.
  • Ideally, the bottom has to be flat.
  • Cup and lid have to be clear.
  • 4oz (100ml) max. capacity.
  • They have to be cheap, so you can buy them in bulk.
  • They have to be stackable.
  • They have to be ergonomic and easy to handle.

Things to avoid:
  • Bulky or heavy containers, it's all about those ergonomics.
  • Flimsy or thin plastic.
  • Glass: glass containers are not as easy to handle as plastic containers. Handling glass with alcohol-soaked gloves can be a slippery business. Also, you just can't fit as many in the PC.
  • Screw-tops: again, for ergonomic reasons.
  • Raised bottoms and unnecessary marks and grooves.
  • Hinged snap-on lids.
  • Lids that aren't clear.
  • Short sides.

The lists above are not set in stone, but have their basis on personal experience after having tried a variety of different containers.
I prefer to use what overall makes my life easier; prep, culture work, clasification, storage and cleaning.

A little disclaimer, though: failling to follow the above guidelines could potentially lead to contams or other issues along the line, as the great majority of containers on the market simply aren't good for this. 



FINDING THE RIGHT CONTAINERS

These are the containers I use, which meet all the requirements mentioned above. They are durable and quite thick and sturdy, while allowing decent visibility.
Some pics, although in real life visibility is better:



Finding appropriate deli containers for agar on the internet can be a bit of a challenge, but the struggle is totally worth it if you manage to find the right ones.
The following is a list of things you should do and take into account before purchasing:
  • You will need to contact the vendor and ask them if both cup and lid are PP5. If you don't specify they can tell you their containers are PP5 when in fact only the cup is and shit happens...

  • Very often, vendors don't specify in the item's description that their containers are polypropylene (PP5) even if they are, but if the description says something like "dishwasher, microwave and freezer safe" there's a good chance those containers are indeed PP5.
  • Sometimes, the pictures of the containers the vendor has on display don't correspond to reality. You need to bug the fucker and ask them for some real pics of the container and even ask them for a pic of the inside of the cup to ensure the bottom is flat. They'll usually acquiesce to this request if you make them swallow a little white lie like, "I'm the owner of a fast food restaurant and need thousands of these containers for my sauces...". You'll make 'em your bitch. :hehehe:
  • Again, you need sturdy plastic and a simple design.

    And avoid:

  • Whatever you do, avoid the temptation of getting what can seem super good deals on plastic containers. Even good quality containers should be cheap, but trust me, super cheap can cost you dearly.
  • Buy them in bulk (500-1000 containers). It'll be cheaper this way and you'll have containers for life. There's a pretty good chance you'll regret just getting like 100. A very lame thing to do.
  • When the box of containers you ordered arrives, carefully open the box without damaging anything, carefully open a bag of cups and another bag of lids and make sure your overall impression is good and corresponds with the descriptions of the ideal container you've seen here.
    If you find something iffy you can just return the box in its original state, which is a prerequisite in most return policies.


Modifying the Containers


For this tek, we're going to be making a hole through the side of the containers, not through the lid. There is a few advantages to doing this, but the most important one is that it allows you get away with no wrapping the containers in foil or using paper towels to protect the filter during the pc cycle. More about this later.

A small hole will help in keeping the plates fresh for longer without drying out. There's absolutely no reason to make a big hole.

The only real purpose of adding a filter is to prevent the plastic containers from warping during the pc cycle, and for that a tiny hole will do. 
The filter is not really intended to enable gas exchange, since there's more than enough air in a container to support healthy growth even if there was no filter.

You can use whatever to make the holes; a small drill bit, a hot nail, a punch, a small screwdriver...
I personally like to melt a slit through the side using a small flat-head screwdriver, instead of drilling.



Simply take a torch and flame the tip of the screwdriver. Flame the screwdriver just enough to allow you to make the hole with ease. You can make several holes before you have to flame again.
Use only the tip of the screwdriver to make the hole.

Flaming red hot can make a mess of melted plastic around the edges of the hole. This can even happen in a lesser degree without flaming red hot, but you can easily scratch off the melted plastic around the hole with your fingernail.

This is the result.



Now cover the holes with 2 or 3 layers of MP tape. I personally like to add 3 layers of tape.



The combination of a small hole and several layers of tape allows you to keep the plates fresh for very long.
They'll be good for quite more than a month at room temp.
This means you can prepare a great number of plates one day and have agar plates handy and ready to use for many days.

3 layers of MP tape will last in good condition for many PC cycles. If at any point you see the tape has deteriorated, you can simply add another layer of tape for the next PC cycle, without removing the old ones.
You can stack layers of MP tape no problem.
The max I've done was 6 layers and that lasted for many pc cycles.


BEAST MODE! Let's Make some No-Pours

A no-pour prep doesn't necessarily have to be so tedious or rob you of a lot of your precious time. We're going to keep things simple and reasonably painless.

One of the key advantages of using the type of container featured in this guide is that it allows to make the most out of the space in your pressure cooker. You can fit more of them in the PC than when using most any other type of containers. I can fit 120 plates in my PC and could fit more if I wanted.

This is obviously good if you do lots of agar but it doesn't matter if you don't, because as I mentioned earlier, you can keep the plates stored for quite a long time. Having blank plates handy whenever you need them is a beautiful thing.
You can keep blank plates unused for more than 2 months stored in a tote at room temp and they'll be as good as fresh out of the PC if you follow the simple steps in this guide.


ONE CUP, ONE LID

You have made the holes in your containers and applied the 3 layers of tape.
The first step for the agar prep is laying the empty cups in an orderly fashion on a table or kitchen counter.



This is self-obvious and it wouldn't need any explaining at all except for one important thing that I think deserves a few lines.
In order to extend the life of your containers considerably, it's important that you always use the same lid for the same cup.

The containers featured in this guide will last countless PC cycles in good condition (some of mine are more than 2 years old without showing any signs of wear), but only if you take the precaution of always using the same lid for the same cup. If you don't, you'll mess them up fast.

Lids and cups that have had different numbers of cycles won't fit well. The lids may close too tight or too loose, so loose they won't offer any real protection. One lid, one cup, and you will never have this problem.

You can go two ways about this.

A simple thing you can do when you clean a plate after use is immediately put the same lid on and store the empty plate with the lid on for later use.
I concede that this can be a bit of a pain, but trust me, the nuisance of taking this precaution can't begin to compare with the frustration of having your containers all messed up from the very beginning.

The following are some diagrams to help you understand what I do. Of course, you don't need to do this when you are using cups and lids that are new out of the box, only when they have had at least one PC cycle.

You can arrange the empty plates like this:



And once you finish pouring them you do this:



The second thing you can do is marking each cup and lid with a number using a permanent marker, so the lid number 1 will always go with the cup number 1 and so on.
The permanent marker will cure after a PC cycle, meaning that it's going to be impossible to remove the labels even with alcohol, they're going to stay there forever like a tattoo.
The advantage of doing this is that you can store the lids and cups separately after use and since they're stackable they'll take very little space.
One of the drawbacks is that it can be a nuisance trying to find the lid that matches the cup among so many cups and lids, and also, that maybe you'd rather have your containers not marked and in pristine condition.
So do whatever way you prefer.


SPECIAL SHOUT OUT TO LIGHT MALT EXTRACT (LME)

I'll admit I'm partial to LME. There are several good agar recipes, but LME has a few advantages over the rest:
  • Super easy prep. All agar preps are easy but MEA is just ridiculous stuff.
  • Easy to sterilize. LME is an inherently clean media, which allows you to get away with a short PC cycle.
  • Super cheap. A bag of 500 grams of LME could perfectly outlast you and won't go bad if stored properly.
  • Perfectly clear media without any sediment. Good for shining a light through the bottom of the container to let you see growth patterns from a different perspective.
  • All in all, awesome media. Mycelium just loves to grow pretty on MEA. :cool:


There are no excuses for not using LME, it's also amazing for LC's. It's very easy to find online, fairly cheap and it pays for itself considering a bag of 500g is fucking infinite.

You have to reseal the bag with as little air as possible after use. Close the bag very well and use a peg, then put the bag inside a ziploc bag and store it in a dry and cool place.



LME is very hygroscopic, meaning that is able to absorb moisture from the environment like a madafokin bitch, which leads to clumping and solidifying to a rock-like consistency. Taking those simple precautions will take care of that.


PREPPING THE AGAR

For transfers, anywhere from 1,5% to 2% agar strength is good. The same goes for nute strength.
I personally like 1,5% agar strength and 1,5% nutes, just because it still works just fine and you save up a little on materials in the long run.

With 16,5 grams of agar, 16,5 grams of LME and 1100 ml of water I can make 120 plates.

Let's get to it:
  • Tare the cointaner and weigh out the agar and the LME separately.

  • Pour the amount of water you're going to use into a measuring jar. I use 1100ml of distilled water for 120 plates (you can also use tap water).
  • Throw the dry ingredients into a pot, add a few drops of food color (optional) and then pour the water slowly into the pot, being careful not to pour the water directly onto the dry powdered ingredients.
  • Put the pot on the stove at medium-high heat and stir constantly from the start until the mixture has dissolved completely.
  • Once the dry ingredients have dissolved, stir only occasionaly until the mix is ready.
    Some people like to take the pot out of the stove when the mix starts to simmer, but that isn't really necessary. You'll know when it's ready when the mix starts to get nice and thick.
  • Once it's ready, pour the agar mix from the pot into a measuring jar. The mix will form some foam on the surface so I like to take what I can with a spoon, although that's just me and my OCD.
  • A little of water may have evaporated off, pour enough water (cold is fine) to replenish what was lost.

POURING PLATES

Very little to say about this, just pour them plates.



I love to pour thin. Just pour a little, enough to cover the bottom.
If you think you've poured very little you've poured enough. :thumbup:



Pouring thin is just elegantly gangsta, avoids wasting agar unnecessarily and it also makes it easier to cut a wedge.

Some people like to pour rather thick because it helps them to get the wedge off the blade by making a cut on the receiving plate.
But that's just a crutch and an excuse for not wanting to get better at what can be the most important little skill to master when it comes to agar work, namely, scooping up the wedge just right so that you can get it off easily and smoothly by contact with the agar surface alone.


Loading the Plates in the PC

When you finish pouring the plates, you need to let them solidify and then put the lids on as explained in the section "one cup, one lid".



It's important that you let the agar solidify before loading the plates in the PC.
When the plates are cooled and solid it's much easier to place them in the PC without worrying about splashing the agar up the sides and under the lid.
By the time you finish pouring the last plate, most likely half the batch will have solidified already.

While you wait for the rest of the plates to solidify you can start preparing the PC:
  • Add a dash of white vinegar to prevent the hard water deposits from staining the containers.
  • The plates need to be elevated above the water level. Use something to elevate the plates, get creative.

  • If your PC comes with the same racks you see above, cover the top rack with foil for better stability.

  • Pour some hot tap water into the PC.

If you've never operated a pressure cooker before, you should read this first.

Now let's put the plates in the PC:
  • The first layer of plates goes directly on top of the PC rack, of course.

  • Cover this layer of plates with 2 sheets of foil. Tuck in the foil around the edges, no need to be thorough, just enough to make the foil flat and without any bumps for the next layer of plates.

  • Place the second layer of plates on top of the first.

  • Rinse and repeat until your PC is crammed full of plates.


Put the lid on and turn the heat on high.
Vent the PC for 10 minutes counting from the moment you start to see steam coming out of the vent pipe.

Now, hear me out.
Seriously, turn the heat on high and keep that shit up until the PC comes up to pressure. Disregard all you've read about bringing the PC up to pressure slowly in order to reduce condensation. More about this later.

Once the PC reaches 15 PSI turn the heat as low as possible, enough to maintain the desired pressure.

Depending on the media you're using, you can sterilize the plates from 30 to 45 minutes at 15 PSI.
If you use LME you can get away with as little as 20 minutes at 15 PSI.


Cooling the Plates in Open Air and Storage


Let me start by pointing out that leaving the plates in the PC overnight is truly terrible practice.
This is hardly an opinion, looks more like a fact.
There are no benefits to doing this whatsoever, but you may indeed encounter some issues if you do so.

For whatever reason, beginners tend to fear contamination if they take the plates out of the PC while they're still hot. Rest assured, that won't happen.
Then there's the ones that leave the plates in the PC overnight just out of sheer laziness. :smbfacepalm:

We often see people complaining about some issues that can be traced back to leaving the plates in the PC overnight, like:
  • Wet filters.
  • Uneven condensation in the plates and water pooling on the agar surface.
  • And what about this:



Taking the plates out of the PC while they're still hot is a bit of a pain, I'll grant you that. You have to take them out carefully as to avoid splashing the still liquid media on the filter and under the lid.
But in my opinion, it's just something you should do if you have any kind of standards.

When you open the PC, you're going to find some pooling water on the first sheet of foil, of course.
When taking the first piece of foil it's going to be impossible to prevent part of this water from sliding down onto the next sheet of foil and getting some water on a couple of lids in the process, big deal... just wipe those lids with a paper towel.
You're also going to find that the filters are literally bone dry.

Carefully put the plates on a flat surface so the agar sets nice and level, I put them on the kitchen counter.
You can use gloves to protect your hands from the heat if you happen to have a sensitive skin (honestly? I never use them).



Wait 15-20 minutes for the agar to solidify and then store them in a plastic tote.



                  :cookiemonster:

There you go, now you have plenty of agar plates for weeks to come. 
Put the lid on and write down the date on the tote if you wish.


Technique


For transfers, working with any type of pp5 containers becomes super easy if you keep them upside-down, like you can see in this video where I'm doing a simulation, which, by the way, is something I'd recommend you do often in order to get better and gain confidence if you happen to be a beginner.

Getting the wedge stuck on the blade is very frustrating, so it's important you learn how to scoop up the wedge with the tip of the blade so it comes off smoothly on the receiving plate when you transfer it.



Working with the plates in an upright position can be rather awkward by comparison, mainly because the tall sides of the plastic containers won't let you have a clear view of the culture. Also, the tall sides will force you to position the scalpel at an awkward angle to take a wedge, forcing you to place your hand dangerously near over the plate.

Finally, working with the plates upside-down is a good way to lower the risk of anything nasty landing on the media.
You'll also be more comfortable, and this alone is something that often translates to a higher success rate.


SETTING UP THE SAB

Simple does it, click here.

I do like to place a towel on the table which I previously soaked in the shower and then wrung out well. The towel will keep the SAB from moving around and it will absorb the water from misting.

Use something like a metal rack to keep the plates above the towel. You can also put an alcohol soaked paper towel on the rack (after misting) to prevent the plates from sliding around.

Personally, I only introduce in the SAB 2 plates at a time, the donor and the receiving, which get wiped down with 70% alcohol right before introducing them in the SAB. I just hate to clutter up the SAB, especially for long and tedious agar sessions, so one day I decided to do this, liked it and never looked back, no issues whatsoever. But by any means, do what gives you the most peace of mind.

Once I transfer I take both plates out of the SAB and never label right away. Instead I stack the receiving plate/s on top of the donor plate outside the SAB. Like in the pic. The donor plates are the ones that have labels and the ones right on top with no labels are the receiving plates from that donor. I label them when I'm done with the SAB session.




LABELLING

I used to use a permanent marker to label the plates, fuck that. It's such a hassle having to remove the labels with alcohol. Currently I do this:



These stickers are dirt cheap and easy to remove aftewards.

You can keep your plates on a shelf while they colonize, or in a tote. Since they're stackable they take very little space and you can classify them easily.


CLEANING THE PLATES AFTER USE

Due to the fact that these containers are rather rigid, they won't allow to squeeze out the agar puck, like you can do with glad mini rounds for instance. Instead, I take my scalpel and detach the puck from the very edge using the tip of the blade. The puck comes out easy and quick and weird enough, I find it to be a strangely satisfying task. :lol:

Then I wipe down the cup and the lid with a dry paper towel and that's it, no washing necessary. Then, snap the lid on and store the empty containers like that for later use.



Bullshit List

You've probably found in this guide some things that may contradict some info you may have read on the boards.
Unfortunately, some of the stuff you read comes from people with very little or zero actual experience.
This is a public forum and everyone is entitled to express their ideas and opinions even if they are wrong, so you should take this into account and exercise caution when presented with new info.

The following is a list of things you should never do that get repeated quite often. Most of them regarding condensation, as if it was the end of the world. Take a look, though I'm pretty sure I'm missing out some good ones:
  • Making a big hole in the containers:
    With the idea of making condensation dissipate faster. This is asking for trouble, the bigger the hole, the greater the possibility of filter failure. You can also keep them fresh for way longer if you only make a tiny hole.

  • Letting the agar cool in the pot before pouring:
    Yep, with the idea of reducing condension. This is ridiculous, pour it hot.

  • Waiting for the condensation in the plates to go after pouring:
    It won't get you less condensation after the cycle.

  • Wrapping in foil to reduce condensation:
    You'll end up with the same condensation. :shrug:

  • Bringing the pc up to pressure very slowly to reduce condensation:
    It just won't, turn the burner all the way up until you reach pressure.

  • Bringing the temp down slowly (again, to reduce condensation):
    It won't help a bit and the gas should be set low anyway after bringing the pc up to pressure.

  • Keeping the plates in the pc overnight:
    Horrible practice, as we saw before. Take them out still hot so the agar sets level on a table.

  • Finger flicking the plates to get the condensation off of the sides and lid:
    Terrible, all that water will pool on the agar surface.

  • Using a paper towel to wipe the condensation inside the containers:
    They open the containers in the SAB and do this. Real talk... :facepalm:

  • Keeping unused plates in the fridge:
    This is awful. First off, there's no need to do this because you can store them at room temp for quite long. Second, if there's bacteria present due to an insufficient cycle you want it grow so you know not to use them.

  • Keeping the plates upside-down while they colonize:
    Water from condensation and nute-rich liquid will go to the lid where it's more likely there'll be mold spores waiting to germinate or even bacteria.

  • Condensation is the worst, can cause contamination and should be avoided at all costs:
    Condensation is not an issue whatsoever, just let it be and pretend it's not there. Anything you do to try and get rid of it will likely be a noob move.

  • Using cling wrap to wrap the plates:
    If you need to do that because you're getting contamination during colonization then you're most likely using containers that aren't good for this. A good container should not contaminate under normal circumstances without using cling wrap. Also, wrapping them with foil instead is equally useless.


:cheers:


Edited by Josex (07/08/20 12:45 AM)


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OfflineFeedYourMindS
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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25137713 - 04/14/18 08:49 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Now that’s a freaking tek. So much great info. I am definitely looking into this as I just got all my supplies in to up my agar game. Impeccable timing, really. :congrats:


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InvisibleJHOVA
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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: FeedYourMind]
    #25137799 - 04/14/18 09:49 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

:vibin::vibin::vibin:

What a great fuckin tek Josex. I can atest to your list of minsnomers. Leaving plates in a PC overnight is terrible practice as you proved here.:wizard:

If you live in the americas is isn’t worth the shipping to get anthing less than 500 plates.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: FeedYourMind]
    #25137803 - 04/14/18 09:50 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Wow great same lme has I use,your right about it turning into bricks of pouch left open.


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InvisibleJosex
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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Sutty86]
    #25137808 - 04/14/18 09:53 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

:goodday:

Hey Jhova, thanks man. BTW, how much are the shipping costs for you for 500 containers? I'm very curious, hope it isn't much.


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OfflineCHOOS
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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25137820 - 04/14/18 10:02 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

What a write-up!  :eek:

i thought the side holes were done so you could stack them in the PC.
But then you didn't.
Why did you choose the side instead of the lid for the holes?


Edited by CHOOS (04/14/18 10:05 AM)


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InvisibleJosex
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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: CHOOS]
    #25137859 - 04/14/18 10:22 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

CHOOS said:
What a write-up!  :eek:

i thought the side holes were done so you could stack them in the PC.
But then you didn't.
Why did you choose the side instead of the lid for the holes?




Good question. If you stack them without the sheets of foil they'll stick together in the pressure cooker. Creates a bit of vacuum between the lid of the container below and the bottom the container above, at least it happens with these containers, and you can make a mess when you separate them while they're still hot and the agar is still liquid. The sheets of foil also prevent water from gettin on the lids.

Making the hole through the sides is to avoid getting the filters wet, they'll come out bone dry after the cycle every time if you do what's explained in the OP.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25137884 - 04/14/18 10:37 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Nice bullshit list.

People come up with some really stupid ideas for sure.

The first one pouring while hot/warm vs 120F only works for pour plates.
Idk why people think it would make sence or any difference for plates that still need to get pressure cooked.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: bodhisatta]
    #25137926 - 04/14/18 11:04 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Heeyyyy, i use to finger flick my no pours. Sometimes that pooled water is useful for old spore prints:oldman:


But the bullshit list should be mandatory for future teks. Awesome write up dood.
:manofapproval:


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: mushboy]
    #25137935 - 04/14/18 11:09 AM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Very nice write up man. Thanks.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25138114 - 04/14/18 12:33 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

What do you mean by "wiping the walls of the container with a paper towel while in the SAB. :facepalm:"?

I like hole hole through side of container.  Innovative.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: LtLurker]
    #25138124 - 04/14/18 12:39 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Yey the bullshit list haha
I'd be happy if it helps get a load off of the Pasty plates thread, most of those whacky ideas come from there, people asking questions and others giving that type of advice which ain't advice.

Thanks doods!


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: hamloaf]
    #25138129 - 04/14/18 12:41 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

hamloaf said:
What do you mean by "wiping the walls of the container with a paper towel while in the SAB. :facepalm:"?

I like hole hole through side of container.  Innovative.




Actually wiping the sides, I should edit that. Yeah as it sounds, never read anything like that Ham? They do that to get rid of condensation on the sides. :brilliant:


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex] * 1
    #25138137 - 04/14/18 12:48 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

:nodofunderstanding:

Never read anything like that, but it does not sound like good practice.  Condensation is a non-issue.  It's a very very remote possibility of a vector, but nothing to be concerned about.  Condensation will clear up if plates are kept at a steady enough temperature.  Mild temperature swings actually aid in causing gasses to exchange. 

Nice one, Jo!  :thumbup:


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Edited by hamloaf (04/14/18 01:43 PM)


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25138225 - 04/14/18 01:32 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Josex said:
:goodday:

Hey Jhova, thanks man. BTW, how much are the shipping costs for you for 500 containers? I'm very curious, hope it isn't much.




it's expensive for me. i recommend the uk ebay site cuz i cant read spanish for shit and its the same parent company "General Stores LTD".

29.99 pound sterlings - 500 containers
26.53 pound sterling for the only option of shipping
no import charges to 'Merica
total 56.52 pound sterlings = $80.50 FREEDOM DOLLARS shipped

ninja edit:
If anyone has any vendors of similar type pp5 containers in the US/Americas (ebay) that are awesome please do list them here!


Edited by JHOVA (04/14/18 01:37 PM)


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: JHOVA]
    #25138263 - 04/14/18 01:48 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

@Jhova, I wouldn't buy any less than 500 containers so that's what I recommended in the OP, but you can also get boxes of 100 containers from the same vendor.

$80.50 FREEDOM DOLLARS shipped : 500 containers = 0,161 Freedom Dollars per container.

Looks :lookslucrative: to me.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25138300 - 04/14/18 02:04 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

i didnt see 100 container option from the uk store. they have 2 things they sell on the uk store and that is the 500 and 200. brought to you by Josex LTD:hehehe:
they do have 200 for 13#'s.
13+27 = 40# = $56.97.

even 200 is a good deal now that i priced it out. you could make a batch once a month and the third month would already be cheaper than disposable petris and you don't raise suspicion from fucktard landlords or local law enforcement.


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: JHOVA]
    #25138306 - 04/14/18 02:12 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

:kimjongil:
finnaly. Another good & patiently write-up for the community.

I think ive locally sourced some good cups to replace my old ones.

Only problem i see with pp5 the more thick & sturdy the less the transparency..
And my new ones are simple sturdy, hard & thick as glass jars.

Can you still press and do tiger drop with your containers brother josex?


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Edited by pacmanbreed (04/14/18 02:20 PM)


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: Josex]
    #25138315 - 04/14/18 02:17 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

I found this thread using the search engine, since I was looking for a European alternative for those glad mini rounds and other American brand storage containers. Just realized this thread is hot off the press, so this was posted at the perfect time for me. Thanks a lot!


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Re: Josex' Guide to No-pour Agar. [Re: pacmanbreed] * 1
    #25138337 - 04/14/18 02:31 PM (2 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

pacmanbreed said:
Can you still press and do tiger drop with your containers brother josex?




No you can't. Who wants to use agar these days anyway, get your LC game tight :hehehe:
Back when I still used agar I preferred good ol wedge to grain, even when using glad mini rounds. Not a fan of the drop tbh.


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