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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25072936 - 03/18/18 11:47 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Nope I'm in Socal. The shop makes you sign a couple disclaimers that they aren't responsible if you get hurt, you are responsible if you break or steal anything.. etc etc etc. I don't think they've gotten sued yet :grin:

Goddamn that's a crazy story. Drop a hammer and cause 200k worth of damage... jesus christ. :eek:

If you don't know about water/methanol injection, it's really awesome. Basically the tech comes from fighter planes from the ~30s I believe, is when they first started using it.
They discovered by injecting a water/methanol mixture into the combustion cycle ( or just pure water), it does a few different things:
- Methanol acts as a fuel and gives you more fueling, while also providing cooling and cleaning benefits
- The water cools as it vaporizes, providing a colder intake charge and thus... more dense air. Thus. More power is capable
- It also raises the octane of the fuel and helps to retard detonation, so you can more safely advance timing

Basically with a water/meth injection you are supplementing more fuel and can more safely advance timing, it provides a cleaning benefit to the engine.. keeping the valves and combustion chamber clean of carbon build up, and gives you cooler intake air temps. Basically just benefits all around.

Some planes still use water or meth injection to this day, and a lot of race cars use them. You can use 100% distilled water, or 50/50 water/methanol.. or some people run 100% methanol, or any ratio inbetween.
I run 50/50, for safety reasons. And seems you get the best all around benefits from a mix.

The problems can arise if you are tuning specifically for methanol, say advancing your timing to run for 103 Octane, with a full-on meth setup. Say your meth pump fails at WOT, and suddenly your methanol flow stops (and you don't have the proper safeguards in place) and suddenly you have a VERY lean condition in your engine which can be a recipe for disaster.

I didn't tune for methanol though, so I don't really ever have to worry about that. And even if I did, the ECU on these cars (2016 VW Golf R) is very advanced and will automatically retards timing if it detects knock, so it should save itself should the 'worst case' scenario happen. But since I didn't tune for methanol, again don't have to worry about that. I just get the minor benefits my one nozzle in the intake charge gets.

It's an enthusiast thing. Because it adds a ton of complexity.. more things that could potentially go wrong and another thing to maintain. Generally only the people who are fanatics will go for them.
Even in my car club, which is full of enthusiasts... methanol setups are rare. Most people when going for big power will go for bigger turbo, or E85.

But I still think it's cool as shit. And I just use it mainly as a slight octane booster and to help lower the IATs.
I probably don't really get any extra power from it because I'm not tuned for it. I just see it as an "engine health" thing, helping to keep the engine happy and clean.

DSG = direct shift gearbox.. the newest vw/audi auto transmissions, which are pretty freaking awesome.
They consistently beat manual trans in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile, even pro drivers. You simple can't beat the shifting speed of those things, they are so efficient, shifting in milliseconds
Still sucks as manuals are clearly more fun to drive. But anyone who is going for the fastest car goes for the DSG, the days of manual is always faster.. isn't true in this instance.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25073446 - 03/18/18 03:01 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Oooohh how fascinating.

I wonder if your car will correct it in time? When I was in school they told me knock sensors work by regarding tbe timing in 10deg increments until the knock stops and then advancing it in 1deg increments until it finds the timing just before detonation.

I think under normal circumstances that's plenty aggressive, after all ten degrees is a huge chunk.

I just have no experience at all with that kind of stuff, how fascinating as I was reading your story I was with it and could imagine the methanol pump failing while all demands needed it at the time, wow.

Piezo electric crystals are some of the coolest things around, that's how knock sensors work, when the crystal senses a vibration it produces a voltage that is sent out to the PCM and we know there's detonation and PCM retards timing.

But the same is true in the opposite, all these pond foggers or ultrasonic misters in our greenhouses (I grow edibles) are piezo electric crystals. We give it voltage to make it vibrate at such a frequency the mesh screen atomizes tbe water on top of thr pond fogger.

Sometimes it's fasciatinf to zoom out and look at how we went from cave man to automatic transmissions or some of these amazing technologies.

Fluid with magnetic particles in it, inside race car suspensions, with the touch of a button and the fraction of a second, suspension goes from Cadillac boat soft bouncing up and down on freeways, to solid welded sub frame connected no susspension rock hard bushing feeling suspensions, just from having a little voltage induced into that fluid and it molecularly changes.

Start working on teleportation already, sell teleport docks for 20k instead of cars. Shut up and take my money

Your DSG was the same as my SMG I take it, sequential manual gearbox for the BMWs,


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25073466 - 03/18/18 03:09 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

The reason I have, had s much love for BMW is just how they harvested their horsepower. Dozens of badass technologies we learned About like after you shut off your engine the BMW fires off thr next three spark plugs in your firirng order anyway as the engine is  still turning but dying, to burn off any fuel that otherwise would be an evaporative emission

Before they sold their testicles and went all turbos and introduced the 1 series and the 4 series,they had mass genius go into getting those 333wheel horsepower on the E46 M3 for example.

The intake manifold was fitted with internal baffles, and the engineers paid special attention to the firing order and noticed that by putting these baffles in when tbe number one cylinder intake valve closed, they had so much velocity built up in their intake air system that it actually kind of richocheted off the closing valve and they utilized this energy to give a mini forced induction within the intake manifold by controlling that richochet and having it further propel the air in direction of cylinder fives runner.

Cyl 1 intake valve closes, boom a puff of additional air pushing airflow into 5.

Cyl 5 intake valve closes, puff an additional amount into cyl3.
Etc

Lots of things like that they did to earn my respect I bled white and blue for years.

Anyone can slap a turbo on an engine and make bullshit new models in a shameless cash grab. I suspect new management, that's a whole new direction


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How I made my mush GH


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
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Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25073791 - 03/18/18 05:29 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Due to a number of happenstances, I think the Good Lord wants me to make another car post today as its thread related.

As many of you know, i recently bought a used 03 f150 at 165k. Best advice on used cars is to change every fluid you can afford to. I dropped trans oil, it had never been serviced, dropped the rear diff cover, it had never been serviced, it took 7 flushes to get my cooling system clean, and today..

I find myself under my truck and i notice something new :



I'm speaking directly to the less mechanicly inclined, the diy'ers who browse here hoping to learn something.

Every time youre underneath for an oil change, even if you don't know what all those parts are, look around. Crawl around. you'll recognize more than you think, plus, when somethings wrong you'll be able to know "there's oil leaking out of this case thats next to the thing." 

That's really most of what you need to know 1) i have a problem 2) i need to address the problem.

It's best to check your fluids 1x a week. Check tire pressure bi-weekly or monthly at the least, remember temperature changes tire pressures.

Give yourself a full light test every oil change, pull up to a reflective surface and shine all your front and back lights, walk around make sure your license plates light work, you need one to pass state inspection (in texas) most vehicles have two.

But many problems reveal themselves visually even before audibly and much before failure.

What does that hose mean to you? be honest. To me, even after i started turning wrenches for a while, it meant nothing. Why? It's so ubiquitous. Most cars 10+ years have that, a hose you can kinda see a half black faded mark on it.

That's evidence of a slow leak, a seepage leak. These things are what you want to look closely for as you let your oil drip that last minute or two.

Its basically a slow leak that is enough to keep the hose wet, despite repeat drying by road dusting, if you ever doubt how dirty roads are go ride a windshield-less motorcycle with a pair of sunglasses for an afternoon.

Slow leaks like this are dangerous to the average car operator who rarely opens their hood as it will leave no puddles and cause no driveability symptoms.

This is an invisible leak, there is no evidence until failure unless you crawl under and put a scrutinizing eye to your machine. If this was on an engine cooler line, regular oil changes may prevent this leak from ever even being noticed, as the oil is refilled before damage can be done. But on power steering systems, like this one, the threat is real.

What one should do is follow the leak up, many times it will lead to something you immediately suspect to be the problem. Upon following the line i see it leads to the power steering pump, and i notice the hydraulic line i can kind of flop in and out of the fitting. Usually on these types of hoses when the fitting is tight you can no longer rotate the hose, you can only rotate it while the fitting is loose. 



So immediately i suspect this hose has failed, but the average diy'er has to be careful at this junction.

Did you notice anything else wrong in that picture? 2 more things wrong maybe? Go back and look.

The first thing i noticed, perhaps not you, was i noticed there was oil over too much surface area to just be the hose leaking. I still suspect the hose, its probably original, 15 years old, in an environment that sees ambient temperatures of 150-200F (underhood environment, many newer cars even have insulation under the hoods now, they don't spend that $10 on insulating that huge surface area on 300,000 models a year for no reason)

So i cram my head, and for yalls benefit the camera up there and look at the PS pump head on :


I couldn't get a good shot but the top half is dry. Bottom half is wet.

What does that mean failed?

Shaft seal.

Sometimes you have to be careful, if its more than a slow seeping leak, then the shaft can rotate and throw oil everywhere, i remember being under a bulldozer one time with a giant transmission and there was oil EVERYWHERE, behind the rollers and tracks, all under the undercarriage, it took me a second to figure out that one. you'll rarely see that, if you're being mindful on your own vehicle it will be this slow seepage, half damp hoses and dry above the shaft, wet below the shaft

But many leaks will appear to be lower, keep chasing it up and find the source. Keep in mind these rules chasing leaks :

Gravity - find the highest leak
Windflow - chase the leak forward, in cases where its leaking everywhere and hard to find source remember forward driving creates airflow
Seepage - if something is repeatedly half damp looking, that means there a seepage leak. Your call on whether to fix it yet, but its your job to be mindful, only then can you make a decision on "yes that can ride"

Back to the picture i said two things were wrong with it.  So there i was staring off into space contemplating seal failure, and whether i have a pulley remover for it and how much is the pump and i should just get the hose anyway bc its a teenager by now, all these things when my eyes come into focus on the second thing wrong. One more chance in case you didn't notice last time :



Missing bolt. 

WTF. That durty messican, i'm surprised it had a spare tire smh

Edit - it should be noted that if funds or time are tight, then replacing this pump can be put off for quite some time, honestly i've seen things like this ride for 50k+ miles, the thing is to 1) notice and 2) be mindful. When a leak is known, make sure to add some.

In my case, i'm in no hurry to fix it, as power steering fluids have additive packages (theres those words again) and build up tremendous heat levels and go through a set of worm and pinion gears, all the same rules apply to that oil, but like brake fluid most people don't hear about / understand the importance of changing them. I may do a post on brake fluid specifically, but for me, for this problem, it may benefit the vehicle to have another, say quart - 2 quarts leak out as i monitor the level and top it off with brand new fresh fluid and gain a free power steering fluid change out of it,  carpe diem baby, i can't stop life from giving me problems, but i can make those problems my bitches

double edit : well now i feel guilty about that, clean up your leaks people, oreillys parking lot spaces look like the floors of a drilling rig, black oil everywhere, this is a gorgeous planet we have here


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 06:46 PM)


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25073962 - 03/18/18 06:46 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Great to follow the convo :takingnotes: dont let my noobish questions interrupt;

Just to clarify, rear/front differentials and transfer cases are only on 4WD's? So for 2WD I should only need to change tranny fluid when it comes to drivetrain correct?

Pretty sure but wanted to be certain.

Heres a real question, my girlfriend is always shifting from R to D while her car is still moving backwards, drives me nuts but I can't say for certain if its a bad practice so I hold my tongue. How bad is this for the transmission if at all?

I agree, we need more car/DIY threads on this forum. Glad to see this one picking up again.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #25073988 - 03/18/18 06:58 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

2wd vehicles can be RWD (rear wheel drive) or FWD (front wheel drive) .

Easiest way to tell what you have is to pop the hood and look at orientation of engine. If the engine runs straight front to back, you have a RWD. If your engine is sideways, running between the two front tires, you have a FWD.

Rear wheel drive will have a pumpkin looking thing in the middle of the rear axle. This is the rear differential. It has its own oil.

A RWD vehicle will need 1)engine coolant 2) engine oil and filter 3)trans oil(and filter usually) 4)rear diff oil, possibly an additive needed as well

A FWD vehicle may or may not need a separate "final drive" oil, essentially a differential built into the trans axle. FWD vehicles have a transaxle vs a transmission, it is a trans+diff in one. I don't think its common for them to have a seperate, heavier final drive oil, i think most FWD vehicles use the same ATF fluid or perhaps have a lifetime fluid in the diff section.

Its bad. How bad depends on how she times it.

I do it too, bad habit. Though very little tire movement, basically a full stop though the weight hasn't rocked like a full stop yet. Any kind of shake when thats done is horrible, its hard on the hydraulic circuit but its harder on the actual planetary gears and clutchpacks because imagine each gear having its own case inside the transmission, and only one can be engaged at a time, when you have rearward momentum and throw it in drive it engages in the harshest possible way, a full load is thrown on it immeidately and it is what takes the brunt of all the weight of the vehicle stopping to reverse direction. All 3000+ pounds of that force on one tiny planetary gearset. It can shear the gear teeth if done harsh enough, the gears engage fully and just cannot support that kind of force and shear instantly.



Great questions, keep em coming


--------------------
How I made my mush GH


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 08:42 PM)


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25074023 - 03/18/18 07:12 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

so in this video attached of the planetary gear sets, at the end he shows you how reverse is done.

Automatic transmissions utilize hydraulic circuits to control bands and clutches to control which parts of the planetary gearsets are 1) held, 2) driven, and 3) which one is the drive gear at the time. this is how different gear ratios and reverse is achieved.

Basically in reverse, hydraulics are applied one way, bands are held, clutchpacks are held, and the planetary gear set is turning in a particular way, the ring gear is rolling, the sun gear is doing whatever, etc.

Now you slam it in forward, the hydraulics are working harder because they have to clamp down on something that wasn't ready to be clamped down on, and then when everything hydraulicly does connect, now the gears were rolling in one particular direction AND FASHION, and now its slammed in the opposite direction and in other fasion to boot, there are torque changes because one went from supplying power to now being given power and slamming back the other direction, its a shock.

We have all felt someone at some point shift it into drive harshly, and feel the weight of the car jerk, that momentum immediately changing from backward movement into harsh forward movement.

All that force, the weight of the vehicle that you felt, was at the gear teeth :facepalm:

So, its not really bad if its not moving, but if you feel a jerk, now you know whats happening and how horrible it is, min $1000 repair and that would be having someone throwing used parts to rebuild that particular gearset and drum, $1500+ for a quality reman trans would be the fix, because after failure the pump sends metal shavings throughout the system, you really want replacement after that kind of failure.


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 08:47 PM)


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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25075113 - 03/19/18 09:45 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

I know for my transmission, it's not cheap. You're looking at about $8,500-$9,000 to replace the whole unit. ~$5,000 just for the gearbox, and that's JUST for parts costs. It's more than the engine.
Granted that's not most trannies, but regardless, that's not a part you want to be wearing out super fast and putting unnecessary wear on it.
Shifting to drive when you're rolling in reverse, or vica versa puts a TON of unnecessary force on those gears as mentioned and can shear or wear down the teeth. Not advised. That's why all the owner's manuals say to come to a complete stop before shifting into drive or reverse.


But yeah Humble Newcomer... 100% agreed on your earlier posts in regards to the BMW tech etc. Gotta love that German Engineering.
While some of the design choices can sometimes be frustrating for working on them...there's so many great technologies. 
I'm also constantly reminded how SOLIDLY these german cars are built when compared to everything else. They are like little tanks.
They are also some of the safest cars on the road. I know a grip of people that were in pretty gnarly car accidents, but were in a VW/Audi/BMW that pretty much saved their life and walked away from it, myself included.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25075277 - 03/19/18 10:53 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Yeah BMW was the first manufacturer that I know of to out the airbags and safety systems on a fiber optic system instead of relying on standard copper wires to transfer signals, the signal from a crash sensor travels faster in a nicer car, reaching the computer as an input and the computer can send a signal to the airbags faster as well, giving more time for an airbag to inflate fully before our face smashes into it.

Plus two stage airbags, depending on vehicle soeed determines how fast they deploy in slower accidents because it was noticed in small fender benders the airbags would give bigger black eyes than the accident sometimes.

As such everything's more expensive, the SMG in that car of mine would have been a similar 10k I'm sure.

But for my f150 or philosophers Accord or probably grey fox truck reman transmissions are a dime a dozen.

It is nice to have a car I can afford to fix with zero stress, bright side to everything


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How I made my mush GH


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Invisibleds442
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer] * 1
    #25115559 - 04/05/18 10:05 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Humble Newcomer said:
Due to a number of happenstances, I think the Good Lord wants me to make another car post today as its thread related.

As many of you know, i recently bought a used 03 f150 at 165k. Best advice on used cars is to change every fluid you can afford to. I dropped trans oil, it had never been serviced, dropped the rear diff cover, it had never been serviced, it took 7 flushes to get my cooling system clean, and today..

I find myself under my truck and i notice something new :



I'm speaking directly to the less mechanicly inclined, the diy'ers who browse here hoping to learn something.

Every time youre underneath for an oil change, even if you don't know what all those parts are, look around. Crawl around. you'll recognize more than you think, plus, when somethings wrong you'll be able to know "there's oil leaking out of this case thats next to the thing." 

That's really most of what you need to know 1) i have a problem 2) i need to address the problem.

It's best to check your fluids 1x a week. Check tire pressure bi-weekly or monthly at the least, remember temperature changes tire pressures.

Give yourself a full light test every oil change, pull up to a reflective surface and shine all your front and back lights, walk around make sure your license plates light work, you need one to pass state inspection (in texas) most vehicles have two.

But many problems reveal themselves visually even before audibly and much before failure.

What does that hose mean to you? be honest. To me, even after i started turning wrenches for a while, it meant nothing. Why? It's so ubiquitous. Most cars 10+ years have that, a hose you can kinda see a half black faded mark on it.

That's evidence of a slow leak, a seepage leak. These things are what you want to look closely for as you let your oil drip that last minute or two.

Its basically a slow leak that is enough to keep the hose wet, despite repeat drying by road dusting, if you ever doubt how dirty roads are go ride a windshield-less motorcycle with a pair of sunglasses for an afternoon.

Slow leaks like this are dangerous to the average car operator who rarely opens their hood as it will leave no puddles and cause no driveability symptoms.

This is an invisible leak, there is no evidence until failure unless you crawl under and put a scrutinizing eye to your machine. If this was on an engine cooler line, regular oil changes may prevent this leak from ever even being noticed, as the oil is refilled before damage can be done. But on power steering systems, like this one, the threat is real.

What one should do is follow the leak up, many times it will lead to something you immediately suspect to be the problem. Upon following the line i see it leads to the power steering pump, and i notice the hydraulic line i can kind of flop in and out of the fitting. Usually on these types of hoses when the fitting is tight you can no longer rotate the hose, you can only rotate it while the fitting is loose. 



So immediately i suspect this hose has failed, but the average diy'er has to be careful at this junction.

Did you notice anything else wrong in that picture? 2 more things wrong maybe? Go back and look.

The first thing i noticed, perhaps not you, was i noticed there was oil over too much surface area to just be the hose leaking. I still suspect the hose, its probably original, 15 years old, in an environment that sees ambient temperatures of 150-200F (underhood environment, many newer cars even have insulation under the hoods now, they don't spend that $10 on insulating that huge surface area on 300,000 models a year for no reason)

So i cram my head, and for yalls benefit the camera up there and look at the PS pump head on :


I couldn't get a good shot but the top half is dry. Bottom half is wet.

What does that mean failed?

Shaft seal.

Sometimes you have to be careful, if its more than a slow seeping leak, then the shaft can rotate and throw oil everywhere, i remember being under a bulldozer one time with a giant transmission and there was oil EVERYWHERE, behind the rollers and tracks, all under the undercarriage, it took me a second to figure out that one. you'll rarely see that, if you're being mindful on your own vehicle it will be this slow seepage, half damp hoses and dry above the shaft, wet below the shaft

But many leaks will appear to be lower, keep chasing it up and find the source. Keep in mind these rules chasing leaks :

Gravity - find the highest leak
Windflow - chase the leak forward, in cases where its leaking everywhere and hard to find source remember forward driving creates airflow
Seepage - if something is repeatedly half damp looking, that means there a seepage leak. Your call on whether to fix it yet, but its your job to be mindful, only then can you make a decision on "yes that can ride"

Back to the picture i said two things were wrong with it.  So there i was staring off into space contemplating seal failure, and whether i have a pulley remover for it and how much is the pump and i should just get the hose anyway bc its a teenager by now, all these things when my eyes come into focus on the second thing wrong. One more chance in case you didn't notice last time :



Missing bolt. 

WTF. That durty messican, i'm surprised it had a spare tire smh

Edit - it should be noted that if funds or time are tight, then replacing this pump can be put off for quite some time, honestly i've seen things like this ride for 50k+ miles, the thing is to 1) notice and 2) be mindful. When a leak is known, make sure to add some.

In my case, i'm in no hurry to fix it, as power steering fluids have additive packages (theres those words again) and build up tremendous heat levels and go through a set of worm and pinion gears, all the same rules apply to that oil, but like brake fluid most people don't hear about / understand the importance of changing them. I may do a post on brake fluid specifically, but for me, for this problem, it may benefit the vehicle to have another, say quart - 2 quarts leak out as i monitor the level and top it off with brand new fresh fluid and gain a free power steering fluid change out of it,  carpe diem baby, i can't stop life from giving me problems, but i can make those problems my bitches

double edit : well now i feel guilty about that, clean up your leaks people, oreillys parking lot spaces look like the floors of a drilling rig, black oil everywhere, this is a gorgeous planet we have here




Its not a good idea to change the trans fluid on a vehicle with that many miles especially if its never been changed. Your trans may go out. I heard that and I bought a used GMC truck and changed all the fluids knowing that. 3 months later my trans went out.


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: ds442] * 1
    #25117849 - 04/06/18 08:52 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Ok todays the day. Going to replace the radiator, along with upper and lower hoses, the reservoir tank, and the thermostat. Wish me luck!


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IT WAS ALL A DREAM


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox] * 1
    #25118980 - 04/06/18 04:57 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Got her done. And cleaned the throttle body too to address the idling issues.

:solidnod:


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25122091 - 04/07/18 10:37 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Hey Ds, you're very right. ATF has an extremely high detergent quality, the super tight tolerances inside the valve body where the spools operate are so small even a tiny piece of trash or gummy spot can jam a valve and stop everything.

As the old original ATF and it's additive packages wear out they don't protect or clean well and minor scuffs and micro damage happens inside your valve body bores and everything and over more time those micro scuffs get a little bigger and get half clogged with gunk that's floating around and should have been chamged.

Then, boom. Vehicle is sold, new owner takes care of it, puts a gallon of fresh super detergent-y ATF in it, it immediately starts scrubbing and cleaning the gunk off everything revealing deeper and deeper scores everywhere which now is a small gap between parts that should have little clearance so now they don't behave as they should for example it takes longer for this accumulator to fill bc as it's filling it's leaking and that's why takes forever to shift or slams into gear or there was this tarnish all over this shaft seal and now it's all washed off or now  boom there's a new leak that wasn't there.

You're correct. Unfortunately when you buy a vehicle that has no maintenence records you have no idea what you're dealing with.

Nice job Grey Fox! Any issues? Speaking of, You write all your maintenance down in your owners manual or something right? Can earn u a couple hundred extra bucks at resell. Or for people who want to keep it forever like u, keep track of repairs and fluid changes

Prob my favorite part, writing down everything that was done and feeling good about it. For one, the jobs over if I'm writing it in thr book so thats good and for two it's an awesome feeling when I write several things instead of just "changed oil and filter"


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25123143 - 04/08/18 11:49 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Biggest issue was that the thermostat was buried in the center of the engine behind the power steering pump.  Had to remove the power steering pump and some belts to get at the thermostat. I used a felt gasket and also a light coating of the blue silicone just to be safe.

Good idea about writing everything down. I havent been the best at doing that, but I have a pretty good memory about what was done when.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
Diddler de niños
I'm a teapot


Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25123412 - 04/08/18 01:19 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

I wasn't in the past either but i've been very good with this truck.

If for no other reason than everything is failing, and by the time i'm done i'll have basically a new truck except for a few things here and there.

So when i turn around and try and sell this 2003 f150 in a few years and its worth even less on blue book, many of the surviving 03's by then will be in horrendous shape, the control arms squeaking as they drive, in need of several repairs, and marketwide 03 f150s will only be worth 2k or however much, you know.

I have to prove that mines worth more than that, and the best way for me to do that is to show hey, yeah it has 200k or whatever miles at this point, but everything that fails in that timeframe has already been replaced. all ignition coils and spark plugs, all the ball joints, squeaky control arm bushins, i've already changed out the PS pump and alternator, etc - All that can really earn me a grand when it comes time to sell, on this particular truck. Get 3k because it really should last another 100k without any problems.

I type this for everyones benefit obv, for me i know i will be selling this and being mindful of my investment the whole way, for someone like you who wants to keep it, whatever system works for you. I used to have a dry erase board on my garage wall i had the truck, car and motorcycle up there and kept track of all maintainence on all items for all 3 because thats just too many numbers for me, i'll remember the oil change numbers on the daily driver for example, but when i did the coolant service on the motorcycle or last changed rear diff on the truck, well, let me just write that down to be safe... lol


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