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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use?
    #24751162 - 10/31/17 11:47 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

I've been using Fram Tough Guard oil filters and Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend oil. Yeah there are higher end filters and oil out there... but I've been real happy with how Tough Guard and Maxlife perform. I know they are higher quality than what you get for a standard oil change at a shop.

Anyone else change your own oil? What do you use?


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IT WAS ALL A DREAM


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24751186 - 11/01/17 12:35 AM (6 years, 2 months ago)

I always use the cheapest filter they have at the shop. Never considered it might make much difference just being an oil filter and all, but i wouldn't know. i always go synthetic at least

swappin spark plugs in the morning, finally get the thing running right again hopefully


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #24751421 - 11/01/17 07:08 AM (6 years, 2 months ago)

The higher quality oil filters are supposed to filter more particles and debris out of the oil. Tough Guard filters 99% of it out of the oil. The cheaper filters only filter out 95% or less. If you're going to spend the money on synthetic oil its probably a good idea to spend a few bucks extra and get a higher quality filter too. It will keep the inside of your engine cleaner in the long run.

Good luck with changing your plugs. When I changed the plugs on my truck a few years ago it made a noticable improvement in the power. But one of the old boots got stuck and broke off. It took forever to remove. Boot grease is a good thing.


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IT WAS ALL A DREAM


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Invisiblerackem
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Registered: 11/27/09
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24752662 - 11/01/17 04:31 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

mobile one oil/mobile one filter.

yeah i pay more for a piece of mind.


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Offlinedusty_boots
Registered: 11/01/17
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24753040 - 11/01/17 07:49 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

For my truck I use -

Valvoline SYNpower 5w30 full synthetic (change at every 3000 mi)
Fram ultra synthetic oil filter (change at every 3000 mi)
Fram toughguard air filter (every 6000 mi)
NGK spark plugs (every 9000 mi)
Accel plug wires (every 12 months)
Premium (93 octane) gas
Moog heavy duty upper/lower ball joints, u -joints and track bar
Rancho shocks
Little tree air freshener (cherry)
Valvoline SYNpower brake fluid
Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner 2-3 times in between oil changes
Peak 50/50 antifreeze (flush/fill every 12 months)
Interstate battery

I love my truck and do my best to take good care of her (Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 4x4)


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InvisibleT-Funkadelic
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: dusty_boots]
    #24753056 - 11/01/17 07:56 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

I use full synthetic oil within the OEM specifications of the engine and millage with K&N filters. I build engines for a living.


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24753066 - 11/01/17 07:59 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

thanks for the reply btw greyfox :thumbup:

How important you think it is to change the oil as often as they recommend? I tend to go over, sometimes twice as long as recommended. The miles go by quick


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InvisibleT-Funkadelic
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Registered: 05/14/13
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #24753089 - 11/01/17 08:07 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

3,000 for average oil 5,000 for full synthetic. Engines can shit the bed no matter how much love you pour into them. I let mine get up to 6,000 max on full synthetic.


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Offlinedusty_boots
Registered: 11/01/17
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: T-Funkadelic]
    #24753113 - 11/01/17 08:16 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

Right on, I try to fix what I can on my truck, within my limits. I've had to take it into the shop a couple times though, I had the transmission rebuilt about 60K miles ago and this past summer my pinion seal started leaking and also needed pinion bearings redone, that's what caused seal to leak. I could've done that seal myself but I didn't want to mess around with those bearings in the differential, so to the shop she went.

You probably make a pretty decent living building engines, always have work no doubt


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: dusty_boots]
    #24753792 - 11/02/17 07:40 AM (6 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

dusty_boots said:
For my truck I use -

Valvoline SYNpower 5w30 full synthetic (change at every 3000 mi)
Fram ultra synthetic oil filter (change at every 3000 mi)
Fram toughguard air filter (every 6000 mi)
NGK spark plugs (every 9000 mi)
Accel plug wires (every 12 months)
Premium (93 octane) gas
Moog heavy duty upper/lower ball joints, u -joints and track bar
Rancho shocks
Little tree air freshener (cherry)
Valvoline SYNpower brake fluid
Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner 2-3 times in between oil changes
Peak 50/50 antifreeze (flush/fill every 12 months)
Interstate battery

I love my truck and do my best to take good care of her (Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 4x4)




:thumbup:


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #24753801 - 11/02/17 07:49 AM (6 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Psilosopherr said:
thanks for the reply btw greyfox :thumbup:

How important you think it is to change the oil as often as they recommend? I tend to go over, sometimes twice as long as recommended. The miles go by quick




I change the oil every 3k to 5k miles depending on how long it has been and how busy I am. I aso add some Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubricant & Injector Cleaner to the gas tank after every oil change. I've been on this routine for years with old vehicles and never had any engine problems.


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InvisibleT-Funkadelic
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #24755135 - 11/02/17 05:50 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

Psilosopherr said:
thanks for the reply btw greyfox :thumbup:

How important you think it is to change the oil as often as they recommend? I tend to go over, sometimes twice as long as recommended. The miles go by quick




Not changing your oil as recommended can cause excessive wear and premature engine failure. Or you may get over 200k and be fine. It's a mechanical machine, once you notice a knock on the lower end it's too late.  It's cheaper to just replace the engine with a used one or by another vehicle.


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Invisiblerackem
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: T-Funkadelic]
    #24759005 - 11/04/17 11:03 AM (6 years, 2 months ago)

and ill add something to that..

remember the manufactures recommended oil change intervals are based on what they recommend..

say for instance, if you are using sub par oil/filters you may want to consider tightening that up a bit.


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InvisiblePsilocamel
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: rackem]
    #24764529 - 11/06/17 05:26 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

Fram is trash. Wix/napa gold are best bang for your buck. And i use the cheapest full synthetic


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OfflineGlenWillson
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24773780 - 11/10/17 01:19 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

i use a cheap one and it has been fine


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InvisibleBattyKodaS
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Registered: 09/11/17
Posts: 8,021
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: GlenWillson]
    #24801138 - 11/22/17 10:23 PM (6 years, 2 months ago)

I use...
Mobil 1 High Mileage Advanced Full Synthetic Oil.
K & N Performance Silver Oil Filter.
I also add Lucas Fuel System Cleaner to the gas.
Don't forget to change or clean your air filter.( I use a K & N air filter on everything )
:2cents:


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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox] * 1
    #24863040 - 12/22/17 11:45 PM (6 years, 1 month ago)

I have always religiously used Liqui Moly oil and products in the past...great stuff, top tier.

After having my engine built.. I've tried using Redline and Ravenol on recommendations from gear/oil heads.
Also both supposed to be really good.. racing oils. Got both samples tested after doing a change, both came back with great results from Blackstone labs.
But I was having issues with way too much oil consumption. I was burning through a half a quart every ~600 miles or so. #racecarproblems

I since switched to using Motul 8100 after hearing so many amazing things about it. Awesome oil. Oil consumption has gone WAAY down.
It's top quality oil by all accounts and pretty damn cheap too. My engine is happy..... I'm happy. Only the best for my baby.

It's a 2016 VW Golf R, built to fuck. Engine rebuilt, forged internals, big turbo, water/meth.. etc. pushing around 450WHP
It's my daily and I love the fuck out of it.

I use the Lucas fuel conditioner/upper cylinder lubricant every couple fill ups.
Added Liqui-Moli Ceratec to the oil on the first change. Friction modifier, ceramic coating that supposedly bonds and fills to the micropores and imperfections in the metal..
increasing durability and reducing metal-on-metal contact..  is supposed to last for 30k.
In general oil additives don't work and shouldn't be used unless you are addressing a specific concern, but this stuff seems to actually work and is a good tool for engine health whether old or new.
Really interesting stuff. I love Liqui Moli products
Quote:

How does CERA TEC work?
The graphite-like structure of the ceramic particles enables them to fill in the roughness present in the metal, thereby preventing direct metal-on-metal contact. An active chemical (friction modifier) utilizes the existing friction energy to ensure flowing i.e. non-abrasive – smoothing, annealing the friction and bearing points.

CERA TEC is a suspension based on a microceramic solid lubricant and chemical active agents in mineral oil. This combination reduces friction and protects the engine and transmission against wear. This in turn prevents expensive repairs and prolongs the life of the assemblies.

CERA TEC offers high mechanical and thermal stability, ensuring outstanding lubrication even under the toughest conditions. Engine and transmission noise are reduced.
It saves energy, reduces fuel consumption and thus also pollutant emissions.

CERA TEC reacts directly with the surface of the metal and protects your engine for up to 50,000 kilometers - even with the oil being changed during that period.




I do oil changes every 5k. Seems to be the best balance with the way I drive. It gets regular thrashings but is putting in traffic more often then not.
I've read every 3k or less is excessive for full synthetic oils and can actually be detrimental if done too often, something about not letting the oil fully "break in" or somesuch.
Either way how often you do them is personal preference/based on driving habits.. I know guys who do them every 3k and people who do the manufacturer recommended 10k..
Some manufacturers even say up to 15k now between changes... And TBH modern synthetics can actually do that. It's probably not THAT bad if you go 20k with a modern car, unless you thrash it a lot.. then you are just asking for it. 
But I would never go that long between changes personally. Longest I think I've gone with synthetic is 8k, and it was hard for me to go that long. 5k is about my limit.
Some/most people don't really give a fuck about their cars though and neglect them. Waiting too long between oil changes is probably a major cause of early failure.

But regularly changing oil is the cheapest insurance there is to keeping your engine healthy.. For me 5k is the optimal time because racecar vroom vroom
Oil Filter, I just get the OEM one. Don't think there even is an alternate, except for Mann.

Does anyone use an extractor to do oil changes? I just started using one last year and I'm in love.
So much faster and easier and MUCH less messy. I could do a full oil change in like 15-20 minutes with one, without breaking a sweat and while wearing a suit. 

I had doubts about the extractor being able to get "all" the oil out, but from what I've read online, people have done side-by-side tests
and even pulling the plug leaves a little oil in the pan, it seems to be about roughly the same whether you pull the plug or just use the extractor.
People suck all the oil out with an extractor, and then pull the plug and only a few drops come out.
Most shops use extractors now too. Even still... I have this lingering nagging feeling in the back of my head that says letting it drain via gravity gets more "bad stuff" out
Which probably isn't the case.. the extractor probably/does pull all the crap out with the oil just as good and it sucks it pretty dry too

Even so... I still do a "normal" oil change where I lift the car and drain it from underneath.... every other change... just for my own peace of mind. And to check/clean the magnetic drain plug.
Also it's a good excuse to get under the car and inspect things


If you guys ever want to go full on nerd over oils/fluids, check out https://bobistheoilguy.com/ - the forums in particular are a good resource of knowledgeable oilheads


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #24863281 - 12/23/17 06:11 AM (6 years, 1 month ago)

Thanks for the info Shroomism. Good stuff! :thumbup:


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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24865919 - 12/24/17 12:26 PM (6 years, 1 month ago)

But yeah... if you are into doing your own oil changes.. I would highly recommend an oil extractor.. like this or similar


Makes oil changes a freaking breeze. Don't even have to lift the car. Pop the hood, stick the tube down the dipstick hole, build up some pressure and go smoke a bowl/drink a beer while it sucks all the oil out.
It couldn't get any easier. Almost no mess created, then the only variable is the oil filter. I can change my oil filter from the top of the engine so no problem for me.


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Offlinesprinkles
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #24865925 - 12/24/17 12:31 PM (6 years, 1 month ago)

i get whatever is on sale. walmart has huge jugs of oil for 11$ and filters for 3-4$.


i dont have fast fun cars anymore otherwise id use castrol synthetic or royal purple.



i should note i have fuel getting into my oil.  i think the rings are shot and fuel is seeping through.  also i have an engine clatter.  I beleive that to be some loose torque converter bolts, possibly a loose flex plate.  I dont feel like dealing with it but i guess i need to so I can sell the bitch cause the police know what i drive.  long story short i change my oil every 2k cause the fuel in oil and I keep this bitch going. 

before when i had money i knew nothing about cars, couldnt fix shit and paid a shop to do anything and everything.
now that i am poor I do it all myself.  I can change out my starter in the auto part store parking lot in no time at all.  Im more useful than most men.  So i guess its been a blessing in disguise


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Offlinechibiabos
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: sprinkles]
    #24866232 - 12/24/17 03:50 PM (6 years, 1 month ago)

I use the JASO-MA oil with the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.


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InvisibleGrey Fox

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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: chibiabos]
    #25006845 - 02/19/18 10:23 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

Its been 5k miles since I last changed the oil on my old truck. Its starting to idle rough at stop lights so I know its past time already. This time I'm going to use Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage Oil and a Fram Ultra Synthetic Oil Filter. Going to change it tomorrow morning before work. Hoping it cures that rough idle. The truck is at 186k miles and I want to keep it running good for a lot longer still.


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25006899 - 02/19/18 10:45 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

About time for me too, thanks for the reminder. Old oil gives a rough idle does it? :takingnotes:

An acquaintance of mine recently neglected his vehicle so much that it ran out of oil and totaled itself. :doh:


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #25007295 - 02/20/18 05:38 AM (5 years, 11 months ago)

My truck has been absolutely bulletproof for years. I've kept up on maintenance but I know I've also been lucky. Now the radiator is leaking. All of the sudden it is idling rough. Man I can't afford for it to start failing me now. I'm going to do this oil change and hopefully that engine starts running smoother again.


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25009098 - 02/20/18 07:29 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

After the oil change the rough idling is still there. I thought that maybe the oil was degrading and making the engine work harder leading to the rough idle. But it must be something else. It only happens when I am stopped at a light. The RPM momentarily dips and there is a vibration in the engine. Not sure what the cause is.


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OfflineJonTheGreek
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25061499 - 03/13/18 08:30 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Could be a leaky vacuum line. A nice local shop could do a smoke test for you to see or you could make one yourself if you have a little fog machine laying around. Search YouTube for a diy car smoke tester.

Ps also make sure you check the intake ducting. Anything after the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and before the throttle body will give you a rought idle as well.


Edited by JonTheGreek (03/13/18 08:38 PM)


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OfflineJonTheGreek
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25061537 - 03/13/18 08:46 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Blackstone will also tell you if you’re changing out your oil too early or too late. That can save you a lot of money and needless oil changes.

Cera tec is great stuff btw. Buddy put it in his car and noticed a few extra mpg with it and a smoother rev out. But if you guys are looking to use this as a mpg booster, don’t. Not worth the extra money. Just save it for the pump. But if you track it, then hell yeah!


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InvisibleGrey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: JonTheGreek]
    #25061734 - 03/13/18 10:45 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Hey thanks for the input. Vacuum leak or dirty throttle body is what I'm thinking. It might be the throttle body. I slammed the gas on the highway and really let it rip a few times and the idling actually improved somewhat after that. I usually drive like an old lady, ease into acceleration and drive the speed limit... I checked the air filter and it still looks fine, but I didnt check the intake duct. I'm going to take a good look at the intake and clean the throttle body, probably in a week or so. I'll let you guys know if that fixes my problem. If not then it probably is a vacuum leak.


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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: JonTheGreek]
    #25061783 - 03/13/18 11:31 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

JonTheGreek said:
Blackstone will also tell you if you’re changing out your oil too early or too late. That can save you a lot of money and needless oil changes.

Cera tec is great stuff btw. Buddy put it in his car and noticed a few extra mpg with it and a smoother rev out. But if you guys are looking to use this as a mpg booster, don’t. Not worth the extra money. Just save it for the pump. But if you track it, then hell yeah!




Yeah definitely not using it as a MPG booster... was more interested in the protective aspects.. have a built lower block and big turbo, mah race car daily :cool:


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism] * 1
    #25070132 - 03/17/18 02:20 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Yeah running a little long on your oil change should give no driveability symptoms.

That's great advice, all that on the vacuum leak. I'd add that i use an aersol can of brake-kleen or contact cleaner or something in the hard spots like intake manifolds on front wheel drive four cylinders where they're in the back, or in the valley of v8's or like he's saying, anywhere behind the mass airflow meter all the way up to the throttle body.

If you have an unseen vacuum leak it will draw in the solution, and it will run rich for a few second speeding up the engine then return to normal. Just a little does you, i've done this for years and it's saved me time and frustration many times.

My 03 f150 has a few rubber elbows under all the air intake stuff in the valley of the engine and they're dryrotted real bad.  Any vehicle around the 150k mark or 15year old+ mark should get a thorough inspection for vacuum lines / plastics that need replacement. It's recommended more often actually, but no one does it.

To get back on thread though i'll mention, don't forget 3000 miles for oil change with standard oil was always the severe service recommendation anyway. I find it very important to seperate mechanical fact from todays malicious marketing.

In my first truck, a '93 chevrolet, i'm pretty sure it had an asterisk in the scheduled servie section and it said, 3000 miles is severe service, this is extreme temperatures, extreme dust, tons of stop and go driving, never letting engine warm up before shutting it down, etc.

Regular service is 5000.

In mechanic school they teach us this as well, along with 1,000,000 other cool to know details that left us woefully unprepared for our career on day one. But its helped me recoup some of my tuition costs. So even though marketing has forgotten this fact, some of us will always remember.

I personally don't use any kind of synthetics, i used to use mobil 5000 semi synthetic because it was a perfect middle ground and it was decently priced. It went away.

Last oil change? I used oreilly brand regular weight oil. Dead serious. Why? I take great care of my truck and mechanics (after they exit their twenties) tend to be the easiest drivers on their vehicles. It's crucial to allow 10+ seconds after startup for example, let oil pressure reach the top of the cylinder head and the valves for example, before dropping it in gear and putting a load on it.

I went to a BMW graduate school after trade school and went to work for them right out the gate basically. Amazing manufacturer, the only one i know of that puts brake fluid flushes on their standard service schedule, even pays to have them done for every customer under warranty the first time. That's hella important, ask me why if you dont know But they've for years been 15,000 miles on an oil change, regardless of what kind of driving you do, whether you have the 2.5L 5 series or the 507hp 5 series, and its all covered by engine replacement warranty. You know theres margins of up to 20k then. :shrug:

Make sure you always drive your truck 10+ miles after it fully warms up, minimize short stops and stop and go driving as much as you reasonably can, watch your vehicle, and buy a good filter. And try to stick with one oil. You never get all your oil out during a change and diff oils have different additive packages, greatly different.  It's not detrimental, like say mixing etylene glycol and propylene glycol (turns into silica sand mud stuff ruining your pump, thermostat, everything) but its just better for your baby to stay constant.

Don't believe the hype, ignore marketing, and do some of your own research. Consumer reports is a source i consult for anything for cars to vacuum cleaners, along with a quality search engine.

My dad worked offshore for years (mechanic, family of mechanics) and became supervisor of all mechanics in gulf of mexico for a big named company. They had tens of millions of reciprocating compressors out there so this big company did their own tests on whose oils work good in those heavy industrial engines.

For anything diesel or indstrial, go with chevron delo 15-40.  Fact.

But you can google your own studies, oddly enough champion and royal purple and the high dollar ones always fail, i saw one study where the RP filter was the only one that burst on the bench from too thin of a wall construction. Here's one, you can scroll to the bottom to see the results : 

http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm

My uninvited .02 on a late night ramble.  Car posts are cool there should be more of them


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer] * 1
    #25071201 - 03/17/18 03:05 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

I've been thinking, maybe i can explain that a little better, its hard to believe someone who just says do it and not why.

Without overheating an engine and causing thermal breakdown of the oil, oil viscosity never breaks down or changes. Not that i know of, and i've taken years of education on the subject, but petroleum engineers would know better than I. Here's what i know :

When have you ever drained your oil and felt it between your fingers and had it not feel oily and slick?  never. 

Oil companies will carefully word their ads as close as they can to being untrue, with the intentions of being misleading.

2 main things happen to engine oil as time goes on - 1) the additive packages in oil breakdown. This is important and no joke. Anti foaming agents, anti corrosion agents, additives that help the oil be multigrade instead of one viscosity, additives that help clean the crankcase and help emulsifty particulates and help them get trapped in the filter, additives that protect all the dissimilar metals inside the engine block and oil cooler and rubber lines and brass barbs and magnesium engine blocks these days etc. Again, remember this is a reason to maintain one type of engine oil as well.

2) solid particulates accumulate. This is why you buy the cheap oil and a solid filter.  Since oil never loses its slipperiness, if we can keep it clean longer, it will last longer. More pleats to hold more trash, larger capacity if a longer filter will thread on your vehicle, smaller micron filter, CHANGE FILTER ON TIME as most filters have a bypass valve, when its too hard to shove the dirty oil through the paper pleats, it creates a pressure differential inside the filter and pops open a bypass valve, where dirty oil is allowed to BYPASS the filter element and go right back in the engine. Better dirty oil than no oil.

I truly believe in the near future engines will just shut down when this happens, the only reason that doesn't happen now is reliance on belt driven power steering pumps / alternators / etc. But that's going away, many cars today have no power steering pumps, its all electric. Even hyundais.

In the gas compression industry, sometimes theres questions or a lot of leniency on when you change the oil in reciprocating gas compressors, why? Because there's no combustion. There's no ash deposits or any of the many other solids and gases and byproducts created and absorbed into solution. As long as the natural gas never touches the oil, technically you could run it for years.

But maintenance and habits come into play too. IF you wake up and theres dew on the ground, guarantee theres condensation in your crankcase and your fuel tank. The inside of your oil pan sweats, and it all pools and runs down to the bottom. Water is heavier than oil, we know that from seeing oil spills in the ocean.

So water goes down to the bottom of the sump, where's our oil pickup screen? Right on the bottom of the sump.  It picks up oily water mix, every morning you go to work when there's dew, and we must let our engines stay warm long enough, fully warm, to burn off that condensate. If you don't, this condensation and loss of lubrication causes long term micro damages that add up to be something.

Fuel tank. Same thing. better to store something with a full fuel tank, but full of stabilized fuel. Why? Because the more surface are that has no fuel on the inside will sweat. An empty tank sweats tremendously and it all pools and sits by the pump and pickup sock and fuel level controller contacts.

Anyway. If you have a high performance car, there may be need for different oil, if you have a worn out car where the piston is slapping you have different needs, but for vast majority of vehicles, 1) cheap but consistent oil, that means i should probably avoid oreilly brand and shame myself, i should pick a big oil company that will not be buying whoevers oil is cheapest at the time and mixing it. 2) best filter you can find.

Same with gas stations, fuels have additives. oh boy. But basically stick with the big names that have their own refinineries and there will be consistency. If you go to Mr. G's bread and butter at the corner, they buy from whatever vendor was cheapest that week.

Also, avoid filling up when there's an 18 wheeler refilling the gas station, avoid that station like the plague for a full day at least. Why? Because when the huge underground tanks are empty, and they refill 10,000 gallons it stirs up a tremendous amount of sediment which is now agitated in solution and will flow to the pumps filters. Each pump has a filter should be no issue. But why make your vehicles filter work harder, avoid it on principle.

Sorry for rambling they all seem related. Just good info to know. I felt selfish for not sharing the whys, it always helps. We should have a general car info thread or something


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25071250 - 03/17/18 03:23 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

For the recent oil change I did on my truck I used Valvoline Full Synthetic. It was only a few dollars more than the MaxLife Synthetic Blend and it also has the MaxLife additives in it so I'm thinking its what I'll be using from now on.

I used the Fram Ultra oil filter, which seems to be their high end filter for synthetic oil. I notice that a lot of people shit on Fram and say the MobilOne filters are so much better. But from what I can read online Fram manufactures the MobilOne oil filters, so I doubt that there is really much difference.



Hey Humble Newcomer if oil never loses its viscocity over time then why change the differential oil since it is never even exposed to heat from the engine? And why does the used differential oil smell so bad if it is not breaking down?


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25071286 - 03/17/18 03:39 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

I've read pretty good things about Fram, but to be honest its been a while since i've done any digging. My path turned from automotive to industrial and, as such, there are many mechanics lurking in these threads that can teach me a lot and i encourage them, and anyone else to participate.

Everyone owns a car, let's get lively in here.

I used to use Fram all the time, bonus they had that textured grip on the bottom. I use wix now, expensive but consistently top of the lists when i read.

There's something about taking care of your own car, and that feeling you have after a fresh oil change and you're driving and imagining how clean it is in there. So by all means, at the end of the day use the information and buy what you want.

You can get more out of a synthetic, if it were me and i was spending the money on synthetic i would look into going at least 7500k miles.

The BMW oil changes i was mentioning, they come in at around 7500 miles if i remember, change the filter, top off the oil and leave. BMW gives paid maintenance for the first 40 or 60k and they do it immaculately. But its a high quality synthetic made for BMW Worldwide if i recall.

If i was using mobil 1 synthetic for exmample, especially in non high performance engines, i would absolutely change the filter at 5k, top off, and do an oil and filter both at 10k.

To many they won't like that, it feels scary, but if you were 19 like i was at the dealer learning thats how the German geniuses did it, you shut up and  :takingnotes:

Great question - as for the smell, did it smell worse than the new gear oil you put in? Gear oil is notoriously sour smelling, and ... i can't explain why.  I assume the additive packages, i can't see how the thickness does it (75w140 instead of your engines 5-20 or 10-30) unless maybe more crude = more stink. I dunno.

The reason we change differential oils is twofold (that i'm aware of).
1) break- in

I recently purchased an 03 f150, drove well, seemed solid, few things were wrong but i talked him down bc of them and fixed them on the cheap. Always when you buy a new car, change everything you can afford. at 165k i dropped transmission pan and found the yellow plunger that gets knocked out at the factory still in my drain pan along with a MOUNTAIN of shavings, far more than regular service should have.  Yeah. After changing i'm having trans issues now. 

I dropped the rear diff cover after seeing that, and sure enough, the entire carrier was coated with a thick thick sheen of shavings. Wrote my name on it, but much to my chagrin i had to waste two cans of brake kleen ($8 for my frugal ass) spraying down the spider gears and pinion and ring and wiping out the recesses in the bottom of the casting.  Shameful.

That's worse than sand, thats metallic grit being chewed and gnawed everywhere you go on the ring and pinion and spiders, esp when you're turning and making them spiders work. I can't express to you the amount of metal there was, i've never seen it that bad. You only see it that bad in failures, because if people don't change the oil and it gets that bad, well they don't come in for a change later and let me see it until it fails and i'm like wow, look at all them shavings.

Secondary reason - additive packages. They're everywhere buddy.
Limited slip differentials, and all the All wheel drive crap today is even more finicky, and CVT's, but basically all these new techniologies require an additive in the oil to make it behave and cooperate.  When those break down, tiny  moving parts or timed devices like accumulators are thrown off by clumping or gumminess or what have you.


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25071552 - 03/17/18 05:34 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

I just noticed something, and i'll drop a few more tidbits since there needs to be car information out for people, customers do horrendous things out of ignorance.

you mentioned heat. there is no heat from the engine, true, and notice theres no combustion either, we're almost in the same situation as nat gas compressors, however there is an extreme amount of shearing force and heat from friction.

If you haven't seen inside a rear diff and seen the beauty that is an automotive pinion gear, notice how it could immediately be swapped out in skyrim for a wicked looking mace :
https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+and+pinion+gear&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjvw5OkwfTZAhUPUa0KHUTYDsQQ_AUICygC&biw=1517&bih=707#imgrc=UBZfiGwZaL0KOM:

A lot of engineering goes into gear sets, gear multiplication is perhaps the most fascinating thing to me about vehicles and especially construction equipment. But there needs to be a large amount of surface area when the teeth contact, to handle all the load, and almost no tolerances, otherwhise it would whine and wear out. The thick heavy oil is squeezed apart, molecules ripped away from each other with each revolution, crawl under your truck and feel that pumpkin after a good freeway drive, or, expecially after towing something.

Also, differential services on older vehicles are due as often as 30k miles, nowadays, because of the better additive packages and better technologies, some manufacturers let you go 100k, maybe more. Even with break in shavings in there. Nowadays 100% of the time you have to refer to the manual because technologies are so vastly different between manufacturers.

Unlike the old days when all diffs worked the same.

So that means, based on my experience, over 50% of you lurkers that don't have new vehicles are due.

Check your manuals, each one has a maintainence schedule or google that shit and download your owners manual pdf, its always free from the manufacturer.

Many people roll the dice each time, i don't need to change my front diff or my transfer case, i never go off road.

Do you ever drive through puddles? Diffs are vented, water splashes in, if you never use it or change it, you got a colorful mess in there.

4WDs are expensive to own for someone who actually maintains their vehicle, smh, let's see 1) engine oil 2) trans oil 3) rear diff oil 4) transfer case oil 5) front diff oil 6) engine coolant service that's 6 fluid changes you gotta be keeping up with, no one does it. And our paychecks love y'all for it :shrug:


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25071601 - 03/17/18 06:01 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Thanks for the info. It sounds lke you really know your stuff. I have 187k miles on my old truck and I really want to see it get to 300k one day. I'm a big believer in regularly changing fluids, filters, belts, hoses, etc. These are things that the average car owner can do and they make so much difference over time. My next big project will be changing the radiator, which I don't expect to be too difficult. The truck needs new leaf springs too. I've overloaded it so many times its not even funny. I just keep a mental checklist going and try to get to things when I can. You're right, it is fun to do the work yourself. I hate handing the keys to a mechanic anymore because the sad thing is you just never know what they might do to your vehicle and no one will ever care about your vehicle the way that you do.


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25071809 - 03/17/18 07:41 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

And it's so expensive nowadays, there was an article I read that said on average dealerships make more from service than sales by a wide margin, I believe in my fellow man but I also firmly believe they could make them much more reliable if they had incentives to.

Good for you buddy. Staying on top of all the maintainance, changing all the fluids, spark plugs on time at a proper gap, fix things as soon as they come up, and you'll have great success. There are lemons. And then there are bad designs that aren't caught in R&D and it's rushed out and us customers learn certain vehicles have issues, like Durango's with the ball joint separations, old Ford explorer and the spontaneous combustion that would burn down the garage and rhe house next to it while owner is sleeping, the Chevy car ignition switch failures galore.

But the vast majority if taken care of really will serve you well.

Put a new thermostat in when you do it if it hasn't failed yet, I just a week ago fixed my truck engine code po125 of I recall it was engine coolant too cold for the fuel system and I had noticed a drop anof almost 2mpg at rhe fill-up.

My thermostat was sticking opem, when I looked at the snapshot on tbe scan tool it said at the timey code was set engine coolant was 167deg and my thermostat is a 195.

Huge difference since I changed it in mileage and where the needle rides. It was probably running cold since I got it and gradually got worse since I look at rhe gauges so often.


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25072081 - 03/17/18 10:25 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

Humble Newcomer said:

Put a new thermostat in when you do it if it hasn't failed yet




Thanks for the tip. :thumbup:


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25072099 - 03/17/18 10:42 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Make a thread when u do it buddy we need more threads like this. The first page of DIY has some old stuff on it not much happens here and I know people be doing stuff


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25072328 - 03/18/18 03:40 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

Humble Newcomer said:
I just noticed something, and i'll drop a few more tidbits since there needs to be car information out for people, customers do horrendous things out of ignorance.

you mentioned heat. there is no heat from the engine, true, and notice theres no combustion either, we're almost in the same situation as nat gas compressors, however there is an extreme amount of shearing force and heat from friction.

If you haven't seen inside a rear diff and seen the beauty that is an automotive pinion gear, notice how it could immediately be swapped out in skyrim for a wicked looking mace :
https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+and+pinion+gear&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjvw5OkwfTZAhUPUa0KHUTYDsQQ_AUICygC&biw=1517&bih=707#imgrc=UBZfiGwZaL0KOM:

A lot of engineering goes into gear sets, gear multiplication is perhaps the most fascinating thing to me about vehicles and especially construction equipment. But there needs to be a large amount of surface area when the teeth contact, to handle all the load, and almost no tolerances, otherwhise it would whine and wear out. The thick heavy oil is squeezed apart, molecules ripped away from each other with each revolution, crawl under your truck and feel that pumpkin after a good freeway drive, or, expecially after towing something.

Also, differential services on older vehicles are due as often as 30k miles, nowadays, because of the better additive packages and better technologies, some manufacturers let you go 100k, maybe more. Even with break in shavings in there. Nowadays 100% of the time you have to refer to the manual because technologies are so vastly different between manufacturers.

Unlike the old days when all diffs worked the same.

So that means, based on my experience, over 50% of you lurkers that don't have new vehicles are due.

Check your manuals, each one has a maintainence schedule or google that shit and download your owners manual pdf, its always free from the manufacturer.

Many people roll the dice each time, i don't need to change my front diff or my transfer case, i never go off road.

Do you ever drive through puddles? Diffs are vented, water splashes in, if you never use it or change it, you got a colorful mess in there.

4WDs are expensive to own for someone who actually maintains their vehicle, smh, let's see 1) engine oil 2) trans oil 3) rear diff oil 4) transfer case oil 5) front diff oil 6) engine coolant service that's 6 fluid changes you gotta be keeping up with, no one does it. And our paychecks love y'all for it :shrug:





Good post. :thumbup:

Yes almost everyone owns a car but for ~90% of people it's just a device to get you from point A to point B and they could give a fuck about it.. at least that's my experience.
I'm sure you've seen your share of that working in the industry... a lot of people take VERY poor care of their vehicles and neglect even basic maintenance.
Then there's the hardcore diehard gearheads and everyone in between.

Car manufacturers once considered making water/methanol systems standard in every vehicle, because it's basically nothing but benefits.
But then reality hit and they realized to the vast majority of consumers, that's just another maintenance point/fluid they will probably never touch and would just cause issues, not to mention adding cost and complexity.
Most people have a hard enough time remembering to change their oil.. it's a good thing oil and tech has improved over the years to where you can go 10 or 15k between changes... but some people will still go 50k.. lol.
Ever seen an uncovered head after not having the oil changed for like 80k? It's basically covered in viscous sludge.

I change my engine oil religiously at 5k. It may be slightly overkill but I'd rather err on the side of caution. I go WOT more often than most :smile:
Trans oil every 30k.
Haldex/AWD oil every 15k.
Diff fluid is supposed to be lifetime oil, not even part of the maintenance schedule.
But I don't trust that lifetime crap... diff fluid got changed at 20k and I'll probably change it again when I hit 60k.

I've put a LOT of money into this car and I plan on having it last me as long as humanly possible.
I do all my maintenance myself.. well except changing DSG oil, I don't trust myself and pay a professional for that even though I probably could.
But definitely feels good to stay on top of all your maintenance, especially if you care about your ride.. and doing it yourself gives you a sense of satisfaction and you save a lot of money. 
I just REALLY wish I had a lift sometimes. Doing everything with jackstands and a jack is a drag sometimes. One day..

However.. there's this DIY garage place in the area that you lets you rent a lift / tools for like $25/hour, they provide a garage w/ lift and most tools you could ever need, and you just come in and pay by the hour and DIY. Very cool idea and pretty popular, I've used it a couple times.


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25072606 - 03/18/18 08:45 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Hey buddy - right on.

I'm not sure if I know the water and methanol systems youre talking about, but I've heard all kinds of things like propane was considered as a refrigerant, since it changes states at the same temperature ranges as r134 it could be used successfully in a cars AC system but front end collisions would be explosive lol. I've heard things like that.

And the guy I bought this 03 Ford from recently tried to do an all water engine cooling system I noticed, since it gets so hot here in Texas the cooling system is something u want to make sure is clean and  can efficiently transfer heat, yep, took 7 drain and fills with water after using the Prestone cleaner to get it to stop coming out rust orange. That's what I say anyway, he was experimenting, not lazy as ****, id get mad if I dwelled on that.

Changing your oil at 5k sounds perfect and not overkill to me unless you're running synthetic but then again if you're wide open throttle and driving a tight quick car the way it should be drove, good on ya its probably best. :smile:

What's dsg oil?

Im looking into a lift myself, they make pretty affordable ones for a few thousand that require little concrete work but I'm too nomadic right now I'd lose out on that deal until i find a place to hang my hat.

I've never even heard of a place like that, are you in Europe or something? Seems like the liability would be atrocious, do you have to prove some kind of knowledge to use this diy shop?

Years later after leaving BMW I had a well paying job and bought a used 2008 BMW M5. Ohhhh it was 507 hp, SMG transmission, sleek as fuck, oh I have pictures galore I was mid to late twenties no free time to enjoy it but the one or two nights I wasn't working I just drove around and people treated me differently. It's gross.

Anyway. Had a buddy who was a pro mechanic and had his own shop. I would bring it there to work on it, unfortunately these cars fail a lot, tons of stupid computers and shit, and I left it overnight.

That night the mechanic he shared the shop with and bills down the middle came in and did a fuel pump, rested his metal hammer on the leg of the lift as he was unscrewing the filter ring and the hammer slipped off, fell four feet to the ground and sparked and lit up the tank.

The trailblazer above it was burned so bad all glass melted all tires melted all interior and paint melted, two Mercedes AMG behind it had their grills and mirrors melted, my M5 the front grill disfigured a bit and the wipers and part of side mirrors melted that's how hot the ambient air got in there, they actually totalled it out because of heat damage to electronics rather than anything else. 41k of damage without fire even touching it.

By the grace of God my buddy had gotten insurance like two days before. There was a question on if it was even active policy yet.

Things get so expensive so fast, that hammer drop must have been 200k in car damage another 20k I'm building SMH ohh the feels!!


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25072936 - 03/18/18 11:47 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Nope I'm in Socal. The shop makes you sign a couple disclaimers that they aren't responsible if you get hurt, you are responsible if you break or steal anything.. etc etc etc. I don't think they've gotten sued yet :grin:

Goddamn that's a crazy story. Drop a hammer and cause 200k worth of damage... jesus christ. :eek:

If you don't know about water/methanol injection, it's really awesome. Basically the tech comes from fighter planes from the ~30s I believe, is when they first started using it.
They discovered by injecting a water/methanol mixture into the combustion cycle ( or just pure water), it does a few different things:
- Methanol acts as a fuel and gives you more fueling, while also providing cooling and cleaning benefits
- The water cools as it vaporizes, providing a colder intake charge and thus... more dense air. Thus. More power is capable
- It also raises the octane of the fuel and helps to retard detonation, so you can more safely advance timing

Basically with a water/meth injection you are supplementing more fuel and can more safely advance timing, it provides a cleaning benefit to the engine.. keeping the valves and combustion chamber clean of carbon build up, and gives you cooler intake air temps. Basically just benefits all around.

Some planes still use water or meth injection to this day, and a lot of race cars use them. You can use 100% distilled water, or 50/50 water/methanol.. or some people run 100% methanol, or any ratio inbetween.
I run 50/50, for safety reasons. And seems you get the best all around benefits from a mix.

The problems can arise if you are tuning specifically for methanol, say advancing your timing to run for 103 Octane, with a full-on meth setup. Say your meth pump fails at WOT, and suddenly your methanol flow stops (and you don't have the proper safeguards in place) and suddenly you have a VERY lean condition in your engine which can be a recipe for disaster.

I didn't tune for methanol though, so I don't really ever have to worry about that. And even if I did, the ECU on these cars (2016 VW Golf R) is very advanced and will automatically retards timing if it detects knock, so it should save itself should the 'worst case' scenario happen. But since I didn't tune for methanol, again don't have to worry about that. I just get the minor benefits my one nozzle in the intake charge gets.

It's an enthusiast thing. Because it adds a ton of complexity.. more things that could potentially go wrong and another thing to maintain. Generally only the people who are fanatics will go for them.
Even in my car club, which is full of enthusiasts... methanol setups are rare. Most people when going for big power will go for bigger turbo, or E85.

But I still think it's cool as shit. And I just use it mainly as a slight octane booster and to help lower the IATs.
I probably don't really get any extra power from it because I'm not tuned for it. I just see it as an "engine health" thing, helping to keep the engine happy and clean.

DSG = direct shift gearbox.. the newest vw/audi auto transmissions, which are pretty freaking awesome.
They consistently beat manual trans in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile, even pro drivers. You simple can't beat the shifting speed of those things, they are so efficient, shifting in milliseconds
Still sucks as manuals are clearly more fun to drive. But anyone who is going for the fastest car goes for the DSG, the days of manual is always faster.. isn't true in this instance.


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25073446 - 03/18/18 03:01 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Oooohh how fascinating.

I wonder if your car will correct it in time? When I was in school they told me knock sensors work by regarding tbe timing in 10deg increments until the knock stops and then advancing it in 1deg increments until it finds the timing just before detonation.

I think under normal circumstances that's plenty aggressive, after all ten degrees is a huge chunk.

I just have no experience at all with that kind of stuff, how fascinating as I was reading your story I was with it and could imagine the methanol pump failing while all demands needed it at the time, wow.

Piezo electric crystals are some of the coolest things around, that's how knock sensors work, when the crystal senses a vibration it produces a voltage that is sent out to the PCM and we know there's detonation and PCM retards timing.

But the same is true in the opposite, all these pond foggers or ultrasonic misters in our greenhouses (I grow edibles) are piezo electric crystals. We give it voltage to make it vibrate at such a frequency the mesh screen atomizes tbe water on top of thr pond fogger.

Sometimes it's fasciatinf to zoom out and look at how we went from cave man to automatic transmissions or some of these amazing technologies.

Fluid with magnetic particles in it, inside race car suspensions, with the touch of a button and the fraction of a second, suspension goes from Cadillac boat soft bouncing up and down on freeways, to solid welded sub frame connected no susspension rock hard bushing feeling suspensions, just from having a little voltage induced into that fluid and it molecularly changes.

Start working on teleportation already, sell teleport docks for 20k instead of cars. Shut up and take my money

Your DSG was the same as my SMG I take it, sequential manual gearbox for the BMWs,


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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25073466 - 03/18/18 03:09 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

The reason I have, had s much love for BMW is just how they harvested their horsepower. Dozens of badass technologies we learned About like after you shut off your engine the BMW fires off thr next three spark plugs in your firirng order anyway as the engine is  still turning but dying, to burn off any fuel that otherwise would be an evaporative emission

Before they sold their testicles and went all turbos and introduced the 1 series and the 4 series,they had mass genius go into getting those 333wheel horsepower on the E46 M3 for example.

The intake manifold was fitted with internal baffles, and the engineers paid special attention to the firing order and noticed that by putting these baffles in when tbe number one cylinder intake valve closed, they had so much velocity built up in their intake air system that it actually kind of richocheted off the closing valve and they utilized this energy to give a mini forced induction within the intake manifold by controlling that richochet and having it further propel the air in direction of cylinder fives runner.

Cyl 1 intake valve closes, boom a puff of additional air pushing airflow into 5.

Cyl 5 intake valve closes, puff an additional amount into cyl3.
Etc

Lots of things like that they did to earn my respect I bled white and blue for years.

Anyone can slap a turbo on an engine and make bullshit new models in a shameless cash grab. I suspect new management, that's a whole new direction


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25073791 - 03/18/18 05:29 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Due to a number of happenstances, I think the Good Lord wants me to make another car post today as its thread related.

As many of you know, i recently bought a used 03 f150 at 165k. Best advice on used cars is to change every fluid you can afford to. I dropped trans oil, it had never been serviced, dropped the rear diff cover, it had never been serviced, it took 7 flushes to get my cooling system clean, and today..

I find myself under my truck and i notice something new :



I'm speaking directly to the less mechanicly inclined, the diy'ers who browse here hoping to learn something.

Every time youre underneath for an oil change, even if you don't know what all those parts are, look around. Crawl around. you'll recognize more than you think, plus, when somethings wrong you'll be able to know "there's oil leaking out of this case thats next to the thing." 

That's really most of what you need to know 1) i have a problem 2) i need to address the problem.

It's best to check your fluids 1x a week. Check tire pressure bi-weekly or monthly at the least, remember temperature changes tire pressures.

Give yourself a full light test every oil change, pull up to a reflective surface and shine all your front and back lights, walk around make sure your license plates light work, you need one to pass state inspection (in texas) most vehicles have two.

But many problems reveal themselves visually even before audibly and much before failure.

What does that hose mean to you? be honest. To me, even after i started turning wrenches for a while, it meant nothing. Why? It's so ubiquitous. Most cars 10+ years have that, a hose you can kinda see a half black faded mark on it.

That's evidence of a slow leak, a seepage leak. These things are what you want to look closely for as you let your oil drip that last minute or two.

Its basically a slow leak that is enough to keep the hose wet, despite repeat drying by road dusting, if you ever doubt how dirty roads are go ride a windshield-less motorcycle with a pair of sunglasses for an afternoon.

Slow leaks like this are dangerous to the average car operator who rarely opens their hood as it will leave no puddles and cause no driveability symptoms.

This is an invisible leak, there is no evidence until failure unless you crawl under and put a scrutinizing eye to your machine. If this was on an engine cooler line, regular oil changes may prevent this leak from ever even being noticed, as the oil is refilled before damage can be done. But on power steering systems, like this one, the threat is real.

What one should do is follow the leak up, many times it will lead to something you immediately suspect to be the problem. Upon following the line i see it leads to the power steering pump, and i notice the hydraulic line i can kind of flop in and out of the fitting. Usually on these types of hoses when the fitting is tight you can no longer rotate the hose, you can only rotate it while the fitting is loose. 



So immediately i suspect this hose has failed, but the average diy'er has to be careful at this junction.

Did you notice anything else wrong in that picture? 2 more things wrong maybe? Go back and look.

The first thing i noticed, perhaps not you, was i noticed there was oil over too much surface area to just be the hose leaking. I still suspect the hose, its probably original, 15 years old, in an environment that sees ambient temperatures of 150-200F (underhood environment, many newer cars even have insulation under the hoods now, they don't spend that $10 on insulating that huge surface area on 300,000 models a year for no reason)

So i cram my head, and for yalls benefit the camera up there and look at the PS pump head on :


I couldn't get a good shot but the top half is dry. Bottom half is wet.

What does that mean failed?

Shaft seal.

Sometimes you have to be careful, if its more than a slow seeping leak, then the shaft can rotate and throw oil everywhere, i remember being under a bulldozer one time with a giant transmission and there was oil EVERYWHERE, behind the rollers and tracks, all under the undercarriage, it took me a second to figure out that one. you'll rarely see that, if you're being mindful on your own vehicle it will be this slow seepage, half damp hoses and dry above the shaft, wet below the shaft

But many leaks will appear to be lower, keep chasing it up and find the source. Keep in mind these rules chasing leaks :

Gravity - find the highest leak
Windflow - chase the leak forward, in cases where its leaking everywhere and hard to find source remember forward driving creates airflow
Seepage - if something is repeatedly half damp looking, that means there a seepage leak. Your call on whether to fix it yet, but its your job to be mindful, only then can you make a decision on "yes that can ride"

Back to the picture i said two things were wrong with it.  So there i was staring off into space contemplating seal failure, and whether i have a pulley remover for it and how much is the pump and i should just get the hose anyway bc its a teenager by now, all these things when my eyes come into focus on the second thing wrong. One more chance in case you didn't notice last time :



Missing bolt. 

WTF. That durty messican, i'm surprised it had a spare tire smh

Edit - it should be noted that if funds or time are tight, then replacing this pump can be put off for quite some time, honestly i've seen things like this ride for 50k+ miles, the thing is to 1) notice and 2) be mindful. When a leak is known, make sure to add some.

In my case, i'm in no hurry to fix it, as power steering fluids have additive packages (theres those words again) and build up tremendous heat levels and go through a set of worm and pinion gears, all the same rules apply to that oil, but like brake fluid most people don't hear about / understand the importance of changing them. I may do a post on brake fluid specifically, but for me, for this problem, it may benefit the vehicle to have another, say quart - 2 quarts leak out as i monitor the level and top it off with brand new fresh fluid and gain a free power steering fluid change out of it,  carpe diem baby, i can't stop life from giving me problems, but i can make those problems my bitches

double edit : well now i feel guilty about that, clean up your leaks people, oreillys parking lot spaces look like the floors of a drilling rig, black oil everywhere, this is a gorgeous planet we have here


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 06:46 PM)


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25073962 - 03/18/18 06:46 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Great to follow the convo :takingnotes: dont let my noobish questions interrupt;

Just to clarify, rear/front differentials and transfer cases are only on 4WD's? So for 2WD I should only need to change tranny fluid when it comes to drivetrain correct?

Pretty sure but wanted to be certain.

Heres a real question, my girlfriend is always shifting from R to D while her car is still moving backwards, drives me nuts but I can't say for certain if its a bad practice so I hold my tongue. How bad is this for the transmission if at all?

I agree, we need more car/DIY threads on this forum. Glad to see this one picking up again.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #25073988 - 03/18/18 06:58 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

2wd vehicles can be RWD (rear wheel drive) or FWD (front wheel drive) .

Easiest way to tell what you have is to pop the hood and look at orientation of engine. If the engine runs straight front to back, you have a RWD. If your engine is sideways, running between the two front tires, you have a FWD.

Rear wheel drive will have a pumpkin looking thing in the middle of the rear axle. This is the rear differential. It has its own oil.

A RWD vehicle will need 1)engine coolant 2) engine oil and filter 3)trans oil(and filter usually) 4)rear diff oil, possibly an additive needed as well

A FWD vehicle may or may not need a separate "final drive" oil, essentially a differential built into the trans axle. FWD vehicles have a transaxle vs a transmission, it is a trans+diff in one. I don't think its common for them to have a seperate, heavier final drive oil, i think most FWD vehicles use the same ATF fluid or perhaps have a lifetime fluid in the diff section.

Its bad. How bad depends on how she times it.

I do it too, bad habit. Though very little tire movement, basically a full stop though the weight hasn't rocked like a full stop yet. Any kind of shake when thats done is horrible, its hard on the hydraulic circuit but its harder on the actual planetary gears and clutchpacks because imagine each gear having its own case inside the transmission, and only one can be engaged at a time, when you have rearward momentum and throw it in drive it engages in the harshest possible way, a full load is thrown on it immeidately and it is what takes the brunt of all the weight of the vehicle stopping to reverse direction. All 3000+ pounds of that force on one tiny planetary gearset. It can shear the gear teeth if done harsh enough, the gears engage fully and just cannot support that kind of force and shear instantly.



Great questions, keep em coming


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How I made my mush GH


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 08:42 PM)


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25074023 - 03/18/18 07:12 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

so in this video attached of the planetary gear sets, at the end he shows you how reverse is done.

Automatic transmissions utilize hydraulic circuits to control bands and clutches to control which parts of the planetary gearsets are 1) held, 2) driven, and 3) which one is the drive gear at the time. this is how different gear ratios and reverse is achieved.

Basically in reverse, hydraulics are applied one way, bands are held, clutchpacks are held, and the planetary gear set is turning in a particular way, the ring gear is rolling, the sun gear is doing whatever, etc.

Now you slam it in forward, the hydraulics are working harder because they have to clamp down on something that wasn't ready to be clamped down on, and then when everything hydraulicly does connect, now the gears were rolling in one particular direction AND FASHION, and now its slammed in the opposite direction and in other fasion to boot, there are torque changes because one went from supplying power to now being given power and slamming back the other direction, its a shock.

We have all felt someone at some point shift it into drive harshly, and feel the weight of the car jerk, that momentum immediately changing from backward movement into harsh forward movement.

All that force, the weight of the vehicle that you felt, was at the gear teeth :facepalm:

So, its not really bad if its not moving, but if you feel a jerk, now you know whats happening and how horrible it is, min $1000 repair and that would be having someone throwing used parts to rebuild that particular gearset and drum, $1500+ for a quality reman trans would be the fix, because after failure the pump sends metal shavings throughout the system, you really want replacement after that kind of failure.


Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/18/18 08:47 PM)


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InvisibleShroomismM
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25075113 - 03/19/18 09:45 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

I know for my transmission, it's not cheap. You're looking at about $8,500-$9,000 to replace the whole unit. ~$5,000 just for the gearbox, and that's JUST for parts costs. It's more than the engine.
Granted that's not most trannies, but regardless, that's not a part you want to be wearing out super fast and putting unnecessary wear on it.
Shifting to drive when you're rolling in reverse, or vica versa puts a TON of unnecessary force on those gears as mentioned and can shear or wear down the teeth. Not advised. That's why all the owner's manuals say to come to a complete stop before shifting into drive or reverse.


But yeah Humble Newcomer... 100% agreed on your earlier posts in regards to the BMW tech etc. Gotta love that German Engineering.
While some of the design choices can sometimes be frustrating for working on them...there's so many great technologies. 
I'm also constantly reminded how SOLIDLY these german cars are built when compared to everything else. They are like little tanks.
They are also some of the safest cars on the road. I know a grip of people that were in pretty gnarly car accidents, but were in a VW/Audi/BMW that pretty much saved their life and walked away from it, myself included.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
    #25075277 - 03/19/18 10:53 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Yeah BMW was the first manufacturer that I know of to out the airbags and safety systems on a fiber optic system instead of relying on standard copper wires to transfer signals, the signal from a crash sensor travels faster in a nicer car, reaching the computer as an input and the computer can send a signal to the airbags faster as well, giving more time for an airbag to inflate fully before our face smashes into it.

Plus two stage airbags, depending on vehicle soeed determines how fast they deploy in slower accidents because it was noticed in small fender benders the airbags would give bigger black eyes than the accident sometimes.

As such everything's more expensive, the SMG in that car of mine would have been a similar 10k I'm sure.

But for my f150 or philosophers Accord or probably grey fox truck reman transmissions are a dime a dozen.

It is nice to have a car I can afford to fix with zero stress, bright side to everything


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Invisibleds442
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer] * 1
    #25115559 - 04/05/18 10:05 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Humble Newcomer said:
Due to a number of happenstances, I think the Good Lord wants me to make another car post today as its thread related.

As many of you know, i recently bought a used 03 f150 at 165k. Best advice on used cars is to change every fluid you can afford to. I dropped trans oil, it had never been serviced, dropped the rear diff cover, it had never been serviced, it took 7 flushes to get my cooling system clean, and today..

I find myself under my truck and i notice something new :



I'm speaking directly to the less mechanicly inclined, the diy'ers who browse here hoping to learn something.

Every time youre underneath for an oil change, even if you don't know what all those parts are, look around. Crawl around. you'll recognize more than you think, plus, when somethings wrong you'll be able to know "there's oil leaking out of this case thats next to the thing." 

That's really most of what you need to know 1) i have a problem 2) i need to address the problem.

It's best to check your fluids 1x a week. Check tire pressure bi-weekly or monthly at the least, remember temperature changes tire pressures.

Give yourself a full light test every oil change, pull up to a reflective surface and shine all your front and back lights, walk around make sure your license plates light work, you need one to pass state inspection (in texas) most vehicles have two.

But many problems reveal themselves visually even before audibly and much before failure.

What does that hose mean to you? be honest. To me, even after i started turning wrenches for a while, it meant nothing. Why? It's so ubiquitous. Most cars 10+ years have that, a hose you can kinda see a half black faded mark on it.

That's evidence of a slow leak, a seepage leak. These things are what you want to look closely for as you let your oil drip that last minute or two.

Its basically a slow leak that is enough to keep the hose wet, despite repeat drying by road dusting, if you ever doubt how dirty roads are go ride a windshield-less motorcycle with a pair of sunglasses for an afternoon.

Slow leaks like this are dangerous to the average car operator who rarely opens their hood as it will leave no puddles and cause no driveability symptoms.

This is an invisible leak, there is no evidence until failure unless you crawl under and put a scrutinizing eye to your machine. If this was on an engine cooler line, regular oil changes may prevent this leak from ever even being noticed, as the oil is refilled before damage can be done. But on power steering systems, like this one, the threat is real.

What one should do is follow the leak up, many times it will lead to something you immediately suspect to be the problem. Upon following the line i see it leads to the power steering pump, and i notice the hydraulic line i can kind of flop in and out of the fitting. Usually on these types of hoses when the fitting is tight you can no longer rotate the hose, you can only rotate it while the fitting is loose. 



So immediately i suspect this hose has failed, but the average diy'er has to be careful at this junction.

Did you notice anything else wrong in that picture? 2 more things wrong maybe? Go back and look.

The first thing i noticed, perhaps not you, was i noticed there was oil over too much surface area to just be the hose leaking. I still suspect the hose, its probably original, 15 years old, in an environment that sees ambient temperatures of 150-200F (underhood environment, many newer cars even have insulation under the hoods now, they don't spend that $10 on insulating that huge surface area on 300,000 models a year for no reason)

So i cram my head, and for yalls benefit the camera up there and look at the PS pump head on :


I couldn't get a good shot but the top half is dry. Bottom half is wet.

What does that mean failed?

Shaft seal.

Sometimes you have to be careful, if its more than a slow seeping leak, then the shaft can rotate and throw oil everywhere, i remember being under a bulldozer one time with a giant transmission and there was oil EVERYWHERE, behind the rollers and tracks, all under the undercarriage, it took me a second to figure out that one. you'll rarely see that, if you're being mindful on your own vehicle it will be this slow seepage, half damp hoses and dry above the shaft, wet below the shaft

But many leaks will appear to be lower, keep chasing it up and find the source. Keep in mind these rules chasing leaks :

Gravity - find the highest leak
Windflow - chase the leak forward, in cases where its leaking everywhere and hard to find source remember forward driving creates airflow
Seepage - if something is repeatedly half damp looking, that means there a seepage leak. Your call on whether to fix it yet, but its your job to be mindful, only then can you make a decision on "yes that can ride"

Back to the picture i said two things were wrong with it.  So there i was staring off into space contemplating seal failure, and whether i have a pulley remover for it and how much is the pump and i should just get the hose anyway bc its a teenager by now, all these things when my eyes come into focus on the second thing wrong. One more chance in case you didn't notice last time :



Missing bolt. 

WTF. That durty messican, i'm surprised it had a spare tire smh

Edit - it should be noted that if funds or time are tight, then replacing this pump can be put off for quite some time, honestly i've seen things like this ride for 50k+ miles, the thing is to 1) notice and 2) be mindful. When a leak is known, make sure to add some.

In my case, i'm in no hurry to fix it, as power steering fluids have additive packages (theres those words again) and build up tremendous heat levels and go through a set of worm and pinion gears, all the same rules apply to that oil, but like brake fluid most people don't hear about / understand the importance of changing them. I may do a post on brake fluid specifically, but for me, for this problem, it may benefit the vehicle to have another, say quart - 2 quarts leak out as i monitor the level and top it off with brand new fresh fluid and gain a free power steering fluid change out of it,  carpe diem baby, i can't stop life from giving me problems, but i can make those problems my bitches

double edit : well now i feel guilty about that, clean up your leaks people, oreillys parking lot spaces look like the floors of a drilling rig, black oil everywhere, this is a gorgeous planet we have here




Its not a good idea to change the trans fluid on a vehicle with that many miles especially if its never been changed. Your trans may go out. I heard that and I bought a used GMC truck and changed all the fluids knowing that. 3 months later my trans went out.


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InvisibleGrey Fox

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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: ds442] * 1
    #25117849 - 04/06/18 08:52 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Ok todays the day. Going to replace the radiator, along with upper and lower hoses, the reservoir tank, and the thermostat. Wish me luck!


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InvisibleGrey Fox

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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox] * 1
    #25118980 - 04/06/18 04:57 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Got her done. And cleaned the throttle body too to address the idling issues.

:solidnod:


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25122091 - 04/07/18 10:37 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Hey Ds, you're very right. ATF has an extremely high detergent quality, the super tight tolerances inside the valve body where the spools operate are so small even a tiny piece of trash or gummy spot can jam a valve and stop everything.

As the old original ATF and it's additive packages wear out they don't protect or clean well and minor scuffs and micro damage happens inside your valve body bores and everything and over more time those micro scuffs get a little bigger and get half clogged with gunk that's floating around and should have been chamged.

Then, boom. Vehicle is sold, new owner takes care of it, puts a gallon of fresh super detergent-y ATF in it, it immediately starts scrubbing and cleaning the gunk off everything revealing deeper and deeper scores everywhere which now is a small gap between parts that should have little clearance so now they don't behave as they should for example it takes longer for this accumulator to fill bc as it's filling it's leaking and that's why takes forever to shift or slams into gear or there was this tarnish all over this shaft seal and now it's all washed off or now  boom there's a new leak that wasn't there.

You're correct. Unfortunately when you buy a vehicle that has no maintenence records you have no idea what you're dealing with.

Nice job Grey Fox! Any issues? Speaking of, You write all your maintenance down in your owners manual or something right? Can earn u a couple hundred extra bucks at resell. Or for people who want to keep it forever like u, keep track of repairs and fluid changes

Prob my favorite part, writing down everything that was done and feeling good about it. For one, the jobs over if I'm writing it in thr book so thats good and for two it's an awesome feeling when I write several things instead of just "changed oil and filter"


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InvisibleGrey Fox

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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25123143 - 04/08/18 11:49 AM (5 years, 9 months ago)

Biggest issue was that the thermostat was buried in the center of the engine behind the power steering pump.  Had to remove the power steering pump and some belts to get at the thermostat. I used a felt gasket and also a light coating of the blue silicone just to be safe.

Good idea about writing everything down. I havent been the best at doing that, but I have a pretty good memory about what was done when.


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InvisibleHumble Newcomer
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
    #25123412 - 04/08/18 01:19 PM (5 years, 9 months ago)

I wasn't in the past either but i've been very good with this truck.

If for no other reason than everything is failing, and by the time i'm done i'll have basically a new truck except for a few things here and there.

So when i turn around and try and sell this 2003 f150 in a few years and its worth even less on blue book, many of the surviving 03's by then will be in horrendous shape, the control arms squeaking as they drive, in need of several repairs, and marketwide 03 f150s will only be worth 2k or however much, you know.

I have to prove that mines worth more than that, and the best way for me to do that is to show hey, yeah it has 200k or whatever miles at this point, but everything that fails in that timeframe has already been replaced. all ignition coils and spark plugs, all the ball joints, squeaky control arm bushins, i've already changed out the PS pump and alternator, etc - All that can really earn me a grand when it comes time to sell, on this particular truck. Get 3k because it really should last another 100k without any problems.

I type this for everyones benefit obv, for me i know i will be selling this and being mindful of my investment the whole way, for someone like you who wants to keep it, whatever system works for you. I used to have a dry erase board on my garage wall i had the truck, car and motorcycle up there and kept track of all maintainence on all items for all 3 because thats just too many numbers for me, i'll remember the oil change numbers on the daily driver for example, but when i did the coolant service on the motorcycle or last changed rear diff on the truck, well, let me just write that down to be safe... lol


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