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chibiabos
Cosmic Pond Scum



Registered: 03/16/17
Posts: 4,180
Last seen: 10 months, 10 days
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: sprinkles]
#24866232 - 12/24/17 03:50 PM (6 years, 1 month ago) |
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I use the JASO-MA oil with the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: chibiabos]
#25006845 - 02/19/18 10:23 PM (5 years, 11 months ago) |
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Its been 5k miles since I last changed the oil on my old truck. Its starting to idle rough at stop lights so I know its past time already. This time I'm going to use Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage Oil and a Fram Ultra Synthetic Oil Filter. Going to change it tomorrow morning before work. Hoping it cures that rough idle. The truck is at 186k miles and I want to keep it running good for a lot longer still.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Psilosopherr
A psilly goose



Registered: 02/15/12
Posts: 12,278
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25006899 - 02/19/18 10:45 PM (5 years, 11 months ago) |
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About time for me too, thanks for the reminder. Old oil gives a rough idle does it? 
An acquaintance of mine recently neglected his vehicle so much that it ran out of oil and totaled itself.
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Psilosopherr]
#25007295 - 02/20/18 05:38 AM (5 years, 11 months ago) |
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My truck has been absolutely bulletproof for years. I've kept up on maintenance but I know I've also been lucky. Now the radiator is leaking. All of the sudden it is idling rough. Man I can't afford for it to start failing me now. I'm going to do this oil change and hopefully that engine starts running smoother again.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25009098 - 02/20/18 07:29 PM (5 years, 11 months ago) |
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After the oil change the rough idling is still there. I thought that maybe the oil was degrading and making the engine work harder leading to the rough idle. But it must be something else. It only happens when I am stopped at a light. The RPM momentarily dips and there is a vibration in the engine. Not sure what the cause is.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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JonTheGreek
Stranger

Registered: 02/06/18
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25061499 - 03/13/18 08:30 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Could be a leaky vacuum line. A nice local shop could do a smoke test for you to see or you could make one yourself if you have a little fog machine laying around. Search YouTube for a diy car smoke tester.
Ps also make sure you check the intake ducting. Anything after the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and before the throttle body will give you a rought idle as well.
Edited by JonTheGreek (03/13/18 08:38 PM)
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JonTheGreek
Stranger

Registered: 02/06/18
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
#25061537 - 03/13/18 08:46 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Blackstone will also tell you if you’re changing out your oil too early or too late. That can save you a lot of money and needless oil changes.
Cera tec is great stuff btw. Buddy put it in his car and noticed a few extra mpg with it and a smoother rev out. But if you guys are looking to use this as a mpg booster, don’t. Not worth the extra money. Just save it for the pump. But if you track it, then hell yeah!
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: JonTheGreek]
#25061734 - 03/13/18 10:45 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Hey thanks for the input. Vacuum leak or dirty throttle body is what I'm thinking. It might be the throttle body. I slammed the gas on the highway and really let it rip a few times and the idling actually improved somewhat after that. I usually drive like an old lady, ease into acceleration and drive the speed limit... I checked the air filter and it still looks fine, but I didnt check the intake duct. I'm going to take a good look at the intake and clean the throttle body, probably in a week or so. I'll let you guys know if that fixes my problem. If not then it probably is a vacuum leak.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Shroomism
Space Travellin



Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 66,015
Loc: 9th Dimension
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: JonTheGreek]
#25061783 - 03/13/18 11:31 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Quote:
JonTheGreek said: Blackstone will also tell you if you’re changing out your oil too early or too late. That can save you a lot of money and needless oil changes.
Cera tec is great stuff btw. Buddy put it in his car and noticed a few extra mpg with it and a smoother rev out. But if you guys are looking to use this as a mpg booster, don’t. Not worth the extra money. Just save it for the pump. But if you track it, then hell yeah!
Yeah definitely not using it as a MPG booster... was more interested in the protective aspects.. have a built lower block and big turbo, mah race car daily
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism] 1
#25070132 - 03/17/18 02:20 AM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Yeah running a little long on your oil change should give no driveability symptoms.
That's great advice, all that on the vacuum leak. I'd add that i use an aersol can of brake-kleen or contact cleaner or something in the hard spots like intake manifolds on front wheel drive four cylinders where they're in the back, or in the valley of v8's or like he's saying, anywhere behind the mass airflow meter all the way up to the throttle body.
If you have an unseen vacuum leak it will draw in the solution, and it will run rich for a few second speeding up the engine then return to normal. Just a little does you, i've done this for years and it's saved me time and frustration many times.
My 03 f150 has a few rubber elbows under all the air intake stuff in the valley of the engine and they're dryrotted real bad. Any vehicle around the 150k mark or 15year old+ mark should get a thorough inspection for vacuum lines / plastics that need replacement. It's recommended more often actually, but no one does it.
To get back on thread though i'll mention, don't forget 3000 miles for oil change with standard oil was always the severe service recommendation anyway. I find it very important to seperate mechanical fact from todays malicious marketing.
In my first truck, a '93 chevrolet, i'm pretty sure it had an asterisk in the scheduled servie section and it said, 3000 miles is severe service, this is extreme temperatures, extreme dust, tons of stop and go driving, never letting engine warm up before shutting it down, etc.
Regular service is 5000.
In mechanic school they teach us this as well, along with 1,000,000 other cool to know details that left us woefully unprepared for our career on day one. But its helped me recoup some of my tuition costs. So even though marketing has forgotten this fact, some of us will always remember.
I personally don't use any kind of synthetics, i used to use mobil 5000 semi synthetic because it was a perfect middle ground and it was decently priced. It went away.
Last oil change? I used oreilly brand regular weight oil. Dead serious. Why? I take great care of my truck and mechanics (after they exit their twenties) tend to be the easiest drivers on their vehicles. It's crucial to allow 10+ seconds after startup for example, let oil pressure reach the top of the cylinder head and the valves for example, before dropping it in gear and putting a load on it.
I went to a BMW graduate school after trade school and went to work for them right out the gate basically. Amazing manufacturer, the only one i know of that puts brake fluid flushes on their standard service schedule, even pays to have them done for every customer under warranty the first time. That's hella important, ask me why if you dont know But they've for years been 15,000 miles on an oil change, regardless of what kind of driving you do, whether you have the 2.5L 5 series or the 507hp 5 series, and its all covered by engine replacement warranty. You know theres margins of up to 20k then. 
Make sure you always drive your truck 10+ miles after it fully warms up, minimize short stops and stop and go driving as much as you reasonably can, watch your vehicle, and buy a good filter. And try to stick with one oil. You never get all your oil out during a change and diff oils have different additive packages, greatly different. It's not detrimental, like say mixing etylene glycol and propylene glycol (turns into silica sand mud stuff ruining your pump, thermostat, everything) but its just better for your baby to stay constant.
Don't believe the hype, ignore marketing, and do some of your own research. Consumer reports is a source i consult for anything for cars to vacuum cleaners, along with a quality search engine.
My dad worked offshore for years (mechanic, family of mechanics) and became supervisor of all mechanics in gulf of mexico for a big named company. They had tens of millions of reciprocating compressors out there so this big company did their own tests on whose oils work good in those heavy industrial engines.
For anything diesel or indstrial, go with chevron delo 15-40. Fact.
But you can google your own studies, oddly enough champion and royal purple and the high dollar ones always fail, i saw one study where the RP filter was the only one that burst on the bench from too thin of a wall construction. Here's one, you can scroll to the bottom to see the results :
http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm
My uninvited .02 on a late night ramble. Car posts are cool there should be more of them
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer] 1
#25071201 - 03/17/18 03:05 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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I've been thinking, maybe i can explain that a little better, its hard to believe someone who just says do it and not why.
Without overheating an engine and causing thermal breakdown of the oil, oil viscosity never breaks down or changes. Not that i know of, and i've taken years of education on the subject, but petroleum engineers would know better than I. Here's what i know :
When have you ever drained your oil and felt it between your fingers and had it not feel oily and slick? never.
Oil companies will carefully word their ads as close as they can to being untrue, with the intentions of being misleading.
2 main things happen to engine oil as time goes on - 1) the additive packages in oil breakdown. This is important and no joke. Anti foaming agents, anti corrosion agents, additives that help the oil be multigrade instead of one viscosity, additives that help clean the crankcase and help emulsifty particulates and help them get trapped in the filter, additives that protect all the dissimilar metals inside the engine block and oil cooler and rubber lines and brass barbs and magnesium engine blocks these days etc. Again, remember this is a reason to maintain one type of engine oil as well.
2) solid particulates accumulate. This is why you buy the cheap oil and a solid filter. Since oil never loses its slipperiness, if we can keep it clean longer, it will last longer. More pleats to hold more trash, larger capacity if a longer filter will thread on your vehicle, smaller micron filter, CHANGE FILTER ON TIME as most filters have a bypass valve, when its too hard to shove the dirty oil through the paper pleats, it creates a pressure differential inside the filter and pops open a bypass valve, where dirty oil is allowed to BYPASS the filter element and go right back in the engine. Better dirty oil than no oil.
I truly believe in the near future engines will just shut down when this happens, the only reason that doesn't happen now is reliance on belt driven power steering pumps / alternators / etc. But that's going away, many cars today have no power steering pumps, its all electric. Even hyundais.
In the gas compression industry, sometimes theres questions or a lot of leniency on when you change the oil in reciprocating gas compressors, why? Because there's no combustion. There's no ash deposits or any of the many other solids and gases and byproducts created and absorbed into solution. As long as the natural gas never touches the oil, technically you could run it for years.
But maintenance and habits come into play too. IF you wake up and theres dew on the ground, guarantee theres condensation in your crankcase and your fuel tank. The inside of your oil pan sweats, and it all pools and runs down to the bottom. Water is heavier than oil, we know that from seeing oil spills in the ocean.
So water goes down to the bottom of the sump, where's our oil pickup screen? Right on the bottom of the sump. It picks up oily water mix, every morning you go to work when there's dew, and we must let our engines stay warm long enough, fully warm, to burn off that condensate. If you don't, this condensation and loss of lubrication causes long term micro damages that add up to be something.
Fuel tank. Same thing. better to store something with a full fuel tank, but full of stabilized fuel. Why? Because the more surface are that has no fuel on the inside will sweat. An empty tank sweats tremendously and it all pools and sits by the pump and pickup sock and fuel level controller contacts.
Anyway. If you have a high performance car, there may be need for different oil, if you have a worn out car where the piston is slapping you have different needs, but for vast majority of vehicles, 1) cheap but consistent oil, that means i should probably avoid oreilly brand and shame myself, i should pick a big oil company that will not be buying whoevers oil is cheapest at the time and mixing it. 2) best filter you can find.
Same with gas stations, fuels have additives. oh boy. But basically stick with the big names that have their own refinineries and there will be consistency. If you go to Mr. G's bread and butter at the corner, they buy from whatever vendor was cheapest that week.
Also, avoid filling up when there's an 18 wheeler refilling the gas station, avoid that station like the plague for a full day at least. Why? Because when the huge underground tanks are empty, and they refill 10,000 gallons it stirs up a tremendous amount of sediment which is now agitated in solution and will flow to the pumps filters. Each pump has a filter should be no issue. But why make your vehicles filter work harder, avoid it on principle.
Sorry for rambling they all seem related. Just good info to know. I felt selfish for not sharing the whys, it always helps. We should have a general car info thread or something
Edited by Humble Newcomer (03/17/18 03:12 PM)
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
#25071250 - 03/17/18 03:23 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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For the recent oil change I did on my truck I used Valvoline Full Synthetic. It was only a few dollars more than the MaxLife Synthetic Blend and it also has the MaxLife additives in it so I'm thinking its what I'll be using from now on.
I used the Fram Ultra oil filter, which seems to be their high end filter for synthetic oil. I notice that a lot of people shit on Fram and say the MobilOne filters are so much better. But from what I can read online Fram manufactures the MobilOne oil filters, so I doubt that there is really much difference.
Hey Humble Newcomer if oil never loses its viscocity over time then why change the differential oil since it is never even exposed to heat from the engine? And why does the used differential oil smell so bad if it is not breaking down?
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25071286 - 03/17/18 03:39 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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I've read pretty good things about Fram, but to be honest its been a while since i've done any digging. My path turned from automotive to industrial and, as such, there are many mechanics lurking in these threads that can teach me a lot and i encourage them, and anyone else to participate.
Everyone owns a car, let's get lively in here.
I used to use Fram all the time, bonus they had that textured grip on the bottom. I use wix now, expensive but consistently top of the lists when i read.
There's something about taking care of your own car, and that feeling you have after a fresh oil change and you're driving and imagining how clean it is in there. So by all means, at the end of the day use the information and buy what you want.
You can get more out of a synthetic, if it were me and i was spending the money on synthetic i would look into going at least 7500k miles.
The BMW oil changes i was mentioning, they come in at around 7500 miles if i remember, change the filter, top off the oil and leave. BMW gives paid maintenance for the first 40 or 60k and they do it immaculately. But its a high quality synthetic made for BMW Worldwide if i recall.
If i was using mobil 1 synthetic for exmample, especially in non high performance engines, i would absolutely change the filter at 5k, top off, and do an oil and filter both at 10k.
To many they won't like that, it feels scary, but if you were 19 like i was at the dealer learning thats how the German geniuses did it, you shut up and
Great question - as for the smell, did it smell worse than the new gear oil you put in? Gear oil is notoriously sour smelling, and ... i can't explain why. I assume the additive packages, i can't see how the thickness does it (75w140 instead of your engines 5-20 or 10-30) unless maybe more crude = more stink. I dunno.
The reason we change differential oils is twofold (that i'm aware of). 1) break- in
I recently purchased an 03 f150, drove well, seemed solid, few things were wrong but i talked him down bc of them and fixed them on the cheap. Always when you buy a new car, change everything you can afford. at 165k i dropped transmission pan and found the yellow plunger that gets knocked out at the factory still in my drain pan along with a MOUNTAIN of shavings, far more than regular service should have. Yeah. After changing i'm having trans issues now.
I dropped the rear diff cover after seeing that, and sure enough, the entire carrier was coated with a thick thick sheen of shavings. Wrote my name on it, but much to my chagrin i had to waste two cans of brake kleen ($8 for my frugal ass) spraying down the spider gears and pinion and ring and wiping out the recesses in the bottom of the casting. Shameful.
That's worse than sand, thats metallic grit being chewed and gnawed everywhere you go on the ring and pinion and spiders, esp when you're turning and making them spiders work. I can't express to you the amount of metal there was, i've never seen it that bad. You only see it that bad in failures, because if people don't change the oil and it gets that bad, well they don't come in for a change later and let me see it until it fails and i'm like wow, look at all them shavings.
Secondary reason - additive packages. They're everywhere buddy. Limited slip differentials, and all the All wheel drive crap today is even more finicky, and CVT's, but basically all these new techniologies require an additive in the oil to make it behave and cooperate. When those break down, tiny moving parts or timed devices like accumulators are thrown off by clumping or gumminess or what have you.
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
#25071552 - 03/17/18 05:34 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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I just noticed something, and i'll drop a few more tidbits since there needs to be car information out for people, customers do horrendous things out of ignorance.
you mentioned heat. there is no heat from the engine, true, and notice theres no combustion either, we're almost in the same situation as nat gas compressors, however there is an extreme amount of shearing force and heat from friction.
If you haven't seen inside a rear diff and seen the beauty that is an automotive pinion gear, notice how it could immediately be swapped out in skyrim for a wicked looking mace : https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+and+pinion+gear&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjvw5OkwfTZAhUPUa0KHUTYDsQQ_AUICygC&biw=1517&bih=707#imgrc=UBZfiGwZaL0KOM:
A lot of engineering goes into gear sets, gear multiplication is perhaps the most fascinating thing to me about vehicles and especially construction equipment. But there needs to be a large amount of surface area when the teeth contact, to handle all the load, and almost no tolerances, otherwhise it would whine and wear out. The thick heavy oil is squeezed apart, molecules ripped away from each other with each revolution, crawl under your truck and feel that pumpkin after a good freeway drive, or, expecially after towing something.
Also, differential services on older vehicles are due as often as 30k miles, nowadays, because of the better additive packages and better technologies, some manufacturers let you go 100k, maybe more. Even with break in shavings in there. Nowadays 100% of the time you have to refer to the manual because technologies are so vastly different between manufacturers.
Unlike the old days when all diffs worked the same.
So that means, based on my experience, over 50% of you lurkers that don't have new vehicles are due.
Check your manuals, each one has a maintainence schedule or google that shit and download your owners manual pdf, its always free from the manufacturer.
Many people roll the dice each time, i don't need to change my front diff or my transfer case, i never go off road.
Do you ever drive through puddles? Diffs are vented, water splashes in, if you never use it or change it, you got a colorful mess in there.
4WDs are expensive to own for someone who actually maintains their vehicle, smh, let's see 1) engine oil 2) trans oil 3) rear diff oil 4) transfer case oil 5) front diff oil 6) engine coolant service that's 6 fluid changes you gotta be keeping up with, no one does it. And our paychecks love y'all for it
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
#25071601 - 03/17/18 06:01 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Thanks for the info. It sounds lke you really know your stuff. I have 187k miles on my old truck and I really want to see it get to 300k one day. I'm a big believer in regularly changing fluids, filters, belts, hoses, etc. These are things that the average car owner can do and they make so much difference over time. My next big project will be changing the radiator, which I don't expect to be too difficult. The truck needs new leaf springs too. I've overloaded it so many times its not even funny. I just keep a mental checklist going and try to get to things when I can. You're right, it is fun to do the work yourself. I hate handing the keys to a mechanic anymore because the sad thing is you just never know what they might do to your vehicle and no one will ever care about your vehicle the way that you do.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25071809 - 03/17/18 07:41 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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And it's so expensive nowadays, there was an article I read that said on average dealerships make more from service than sales by a wide margin, I believe in my fellow man but I also firmly believe they could make them much more reliable if they had incentives to.
Good for you buddy. Staying on top of all the maintainance, changing all the fluids, spark plugs on time at a proper gap, fix things as soon as they come up, and you'll have great success. There are lemons. And then there are bad designs that aren't caught in R&D and it's rushed out and us customers learn certain vehicles have issues, like Durango's with the ball joint separations, old Ford explorer and the spontaneous combustion that would burn down the garage and rhe house next to it while owner is sleeping, the Chevy car ignition switch failures galore.
But the vast majority if taken care of really will serve you well.
Put a new thermostat in when you do it if it hasn't failed yet, I just a week ago fixed my truck engine code po125 of I recall it was engine coolant too cold for the fuel system and I had noticed a drop anof almost 2mpg at rhe fill-up.
My thermostat was sticking opem, when I looked at the snapshot on tbe scan tool it said at the timey code was set engine coolant was 167deg and my thermostat is a 195.
Huge difference since I changed it in mileage and where the needle rides. It was probably running cold since I got it and gradually got worse since I look at rhe gauges so often.
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Grey Fox

Registered: 01/22/15
Posts: 2,652
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
#25072081 - 03/17/18 10:25 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Quote:
Humble Newcomer said:
Put a new thermostat in when you do it if it hasn't failed yet
Thanks for the tip.
-------------------- IT WAS ALL A DREAM
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Grey Fox]
#25072099 - 03/17/18 10:42 PM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Make a thread when u do it buddy we need more threads like this. The first page of DIY has some old stuff on it not much happens here and I know people be doing stuff
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Shroomism
Space Travellin



Registered: 02/13/00
Posts: 66,015
Loc: 9th Dimension
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Humble Newcomer]
#25072328 - 03/18/18 03:40 AM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Quote:
Humble Newcomer said: I just noticed something, and i'll drop a few more tidbits since there needs to be car information out for people, customers do horrendous things out of ignorance.
you mentioned heat. there is no heat from the engine, true, and notice theres no combustion either, we're almost in the same situation as nat gas compressors, however there is an extreme amount of shearing force and heat from friction.
If you haven't seen inside a rear diff and seen the beauty that is an automotive pinion gear, notice how it could immediately be swapped out in skyrim for a wicked looking mace : https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+and+pinion+gear&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjvw5OkwfTZAhUPUa0KHUTYDsQQ_AUICygC&biw=1517&bih=707#imgrc=UBZfiGwZaL0KOM:
A lot of engineering goes into gear sets, gear multiplication is perhaps the most fascinating thing to me about vehicles and especially construction equipment. But there needs to be a large amount of surface area when the teeth contact, to handle all the load, and almost no tolerances, otherwhise it would whine and wear out. The thick heavy oil is squeezed apart, molecules ripped away from each other with each revolution, crawl under your truck and feel that pumpkin after a good freeway drive, or, expecially after towing something.
Also, differential services on older vehicles are due as often as 30k miles, nowadays, because of the better additive packages and better technologies, some manufacturers let you go 100k, maybe more. Even with break in shavings in there. Nowadays 100% of the time you have to refer to the manual because technologies are so vastly different between manufacturers.
Unlike the old days when all diffs worked the same.
So that means, based on my experience, over 50% of you lurkers that don't have new vehicles are due.
Check your manuals, each one has a maintainence schedule or google that shit and download your owners manual pdf, its always free from the manufacturer.
Many people roll the dice each time, i don't need to change my front diff or my transfer case, i never go off road.
Do you ever drive through puddles? Diffs are vented, water splashes in, if you never use it or change it, you got a colorful mess in there.
4WDs are expensive to own for someone who actually maintains their vehicle, smh, let's see 1) engine oil 2) trans oil 3) rear diff oil 4) transfer case oil 5) front diff oil 6) engine coolant service that's 6 fluid changes you gotta be keeping up with, no one does it. And our paychecks love y'all for it 
Good post. 
Yes almost everyone owns a car but for ~90% of people it's just a device to get you from point A to point B and they could give a fuck about it.. at least that's my experience. I'm sure you've seen your share of that working in the industry... a lot of people take VERY poor care of their vehicles and neglect even basic maintenance. Then there's the hardcore diehard gearheads and everyone in between.
Car manufacturers once considered making water/methanol systems standard in every vehicle, because it's basically nothing but benefits. But then reality hit and they realized to the vast majority of consumers, that's just another maintenance point/fluid they will probably never touch and would just cause issues, not to mention adding cost and complexity. Most people have a hard enough time remembering to change their oil.. it's a good thing oil and tech has improved over the years to where you can go 10 or 15k between changes... but some people will still go 50k.. lol. Ever seen an uncovered head after not having the oil changed for like 80k? It's basically covered in viscous sludge.
I change my engine oil religiously at 5k. It may be slightly overkill but I'd rather err on the side of caution. I go WOT more often than most  Trans oil every 30k. Haldex/AWD oil every 15k. Diff fluid is supposed to be lifetime oil, not even part of the maintenance schedule. But I don't trust that lifetime crap... diff fluid got changed at 20k and I'll probably change it again when I hit 60k.
I've put a LOT of money into this car and I plan on having it last me as long as humanly possible. I do all my maintenance myself.. well except changing DSG oil, I don't trust myself and pay a professional for that even though I probably could. But definitely feels good to stay on top of all your maintenance, especially if you care about your ride.. and doing it yourself gives you a sense of satisfaction and you save a lot of money. I just REALLY wish I had a lift sometimes. Doing everything with jackstands and a jack is a drag sometimes. One day..
However.. there's this DIY garage place in the area that you lets you rent a lift / tools for like $25/hour, they provide a garage w/ lift and most tools you could ever need, and you just come in and pay by the hour and DIY. Very cool idea and pretty popular, I've used it a couple times.
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Humble Newcomer
Diddler de niños



Registered: 03/12/17
Posts: 1,483
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Re: Change your own oil... What oil and filter do you use? [Re: Shroomism]
#25072606 - 03/18/18 08:45 AM (5 years, 10 months ago) |
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Hey buddy - right on.
I'm not sure if I know the water and methanol systems youre talking about, but I've heard all kinds of things like propane was considered as a refrigerant, since it changes states at the same temperature ranges as r134 it could be used successfully in a cars AC system but front end collisions would be explosive lol. I've heard things like that.
And the guy I bought this 03 Ford from recently tried to do an all water engine cooling system I noticed, since it gets so hot here in Texas the cooling system is something u want to make sure is clean and can efficiently transfer heat, yep, took 7 drain and fills with water after using the Prestone cleaner to get it to stop coming out rust orange. That's what I say anyway, he was experimenting, not lazy as ****, id get mad if I dwelled on that.
Changing your oil at 5k sounds perfect and not overkill to me unless you're running synthetic but then again if you're wide open throttle and driving a tight quick car the way it should be drove, good on ya its probably best. 
What's dsg oil?
Im looking into a lift myself, they make pretty affordable ones for a few thousand that require little concrete work but I'm too nomadic right now I'd lose out on that deal until i find a place to hang my hat.
I've never even heard of a place like that, are you in Europe or something? Seems like the liability would be atrocious, do you have to prove some kind of knowledge to use this diy shop?
Years later after leaving BMW I had a well paying job and bought a used 2008 BMW M5. Ohhhh it was 507 hp, SMG transmission, sleek as fuck, oh I have pictures galore I was mid to late twenties no free time to enjoy it but the one or two nights I wasn't working I just drove around and people treated me differently. It's gross.
Anyway. Had a buddy who was a pro mechanic and had his own shop. I would bring it there to work on it, unfortunately these cars fail a lot, tons of stupid computers and shit, and I left it overnight.
That night the mechanic he shared the shop with and bills down the middle came in and did a fuel pump, rested his metal hammer on the leg of the lift as he was unscrewing the filter ring and the hammer slipped off, fell four feet to the ground and sparked and lit up the tank.
The trailblazer above it was burned so bad all glass melted all tires melted all interior and paint melted, two Mercedes AMG behind it had their grills and mirrors melted, my M5 the front grill disfigured a bit and the wipers and part of side mirrors melted that's how hot the ambient air got in there, they actually totalled it out because of heat damage to electronics rather than anything else. 41k of damage without fire even touching it.
By the grace of God my buddy had gotten insurance like two days before. There was a question on if it was even active policy yet.
Things get so expensive so fast, that hammer drop must have been 200k in car damage another 20k I'm building SMH ohh the feels!!
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