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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Solipsis]
    #25001212 - 02/17/18 12:02 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

:raisemyglass:

Hello everyone, been absent from the site for a couple years but and single again and back home in IN. My outdoor P. allenii bed has seems to lost potency in the fruits this past season (4yo bed now), so I'll be re-inoculating my spots again but with more species this time too.

Who's got some outdoor myco-porn pics from their beds/pots last year?


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: bacillus]
    #25007949 - 02/20/18 12:28 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

bacillus said:
My advice:
2. If you don't want trouble with mold, use clean wood (not collected in the wild).




^What he said... A good place to source clean wood chips is hardwood sawmills. They are usually free. I get them by the truck bed load. You can usually get free sawdust from them as well.

As for coir, why? From my experience it doesn't colonize any faster than sawdust for woodlovers, and it costs more than sawdust (since my sawdust is free...). Grain inoculation to buckets/totes/bags of pasteurized wood chips is perfectly fine. Now as to indoor woodlovers, I'll defer to those with more experience in that. P. allenii were my first outdoor beds. Will be doing different species this year.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Tookitooki] * 3
    #25008292 - 02/20/18 02:25 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

Might I suggest using verm then, instead of coir. I found that it contams far less than coir. The grain and sawdust are more than enough nuitrients, and don't believe the hype about coir not having nutrient. Another issue I have with it is that during the composting process of making coir (mostly in open piles in 3rd World countries) it is incredibly inoculated with Trichoderma and other spores. Verm holds water just as well. When I grew in shoeboxes I just pasteurized verm and used 1 pint of grain spawn per 4 quarts verm in each shoebox.

Here is P. galindoi fruiting on substrate done this way.



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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Steevo] * 1
    #25008416 - 02/20/18 02:51 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

Steevo said:


So that's galindoi grown on straight verm?




Yup, besides the 1 pint of milo grain spawn per 4 quarts of straight verm. I lime pasteurized the verm, then baked in pans in the oven. Have to look back in my posts to see my measurements of lime and temp/time baking though. Been a few years... The galindoi also had a verm casing done the same way I do my bulk substarte. Here's cubes on it, no casing layer.



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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: ghiajake]
    #25008449 - 02/20/18 03:07 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)



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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: ghiajake]
    #25008463 - 02/20/18 03:12 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

In the write up I used verm and coffee chaff, but later switched to straight verm when my source for chaff dried up. If you can find it, use it 1:1 with the verm.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: ghiajake] * 1
    #25008472 - 02/20/18 03:15 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)



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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Tookitooki] * 1
    #25009020 - 02/20/18 06:57 PM (5 years, 11 months ago)

I've grown cubes on dried mowed grass, does that count? :wink:


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Humble Newcomer] * 1
    #25014584 - 02/22/18 09:09 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

fishy1 said:

Yea, packed tight and supplemented. Pretty much big pf cakes kinda. The mycosac bags have seams and they will bust the bags if you let them go to sclerotia too much :frown:
I use them for spawn usually. Probably lots of fiber in some of the sclerotia lol




Spawn for what, outdoor galindoi?

Quote:

Humble Newcomer said:
Y'all are inspiring me to clean up my agar ratio, perhaps even start another recipe for darker color.

Any recommendations for a noob venturing away from potato flake pda? My complaints are color, I would like a darker contrast against the myc, and ease of solubility. In my potato flake pda if I don't preheat it enough it isn't fully mixed for no pour applications. Though, that and how it's sometimes too wet are me varying the recipe a hair each time. Though I do mean only .25g of agar difference perhaps, it happens when I use my big kitchen scale and not my precise scale which stays in a box in a cabinet.

Grain water agar? Cow manure water agar? Thoughts? Both of those are very accessible and very free. Other dark recipes y'all like?

Ferather, what is this T-gel I see you have that thread about? Sometimes I try to hang with you buddy but your knowledge is well above mine




Grain soak agar for the win. Been using it for years at this recipe. 1 part grain soak to 9 parts clean water 2g of agar powder per 100mL of mixed broth. If you want to rhizo your myc, you will want to dilute the soak water a bunch because it is incredibly nutritious. As for a darkener, just use a drop or two of food coloring.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Humble Newcomer]
    #25014635 - 02/22/18 09:31 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

You don't want a lot of nutes in your agar, slows growth.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: fishy1]
    #25015704 - 02/23/18 10:49 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

fishy1 said:
Doesn't seem to care if you spill it all over lol. Sawdust and bran







This shit just floors me! Galindoi on sawdust!?! That's some wizard-level shit!

:wizard::sporedrop:


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: ghiajake]
    #25015706 - 02/23/18 10:50 AM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Do you fruit them outdoors, or grow for stones? Pots or beds?


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Adden]
    #25022195 - 02/25/18 11:25 PM (5 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

Adden said:
Woodlovers, in general, will eat pine but in most cases it has to be leeched or very old. Imagine if you're mycelium trying to wade through all the sap. Also, it is very acidic, and too low of a pH invites stuff like psathyrellacae.

There's pieces of pine from an area that overflows with seawater when monster storms come. It fruits like mad halfway in the season right out of the sticks between the bark and out the sides.

Five feet behind it and in the pine litter they'll fruit. A few more feet into the area that doesn't flood, they'll only fruit off other woods and soil in the pine litter. The fresh stuff looks like it takes years.

I can't find the picture now but I've posted before. A hand holding a 3 foot stick of pine with azures busting out if it.





Pine sap also has anti-fungal properties.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: bobwastaken]
    #25412258 - 08/25/18 10:46 AM (5 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

bobwastaken said:
P.alutacea are just a slow colonizer on all substrates.





Haven't played with the culture yet, but I'd say that P. alutacea is probably a secondary decomposer like P. semilanceata. Hence the slower colonization.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: bobwastaken] * 1
    #25412351 - 08/25/18 11:44 AM (5 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

bobwastaken said:
Cool temps tip things in favour for woodlover mycelium.




^This, yes... If you start seeing a jar/bag of woodlover spawn or chips, throw that bitch in the bottom of your refridgerater. The contam will quit growing, but the myc will recover and creep over the contam.


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: bobwastaken]
    #25416586 - 08/27/18 10:48 AM (5 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

Unfortunately I can't try to fruit them until I complete my new FC...




Are you building a larger version of your mini fridge FC?


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Ferather] * 1
    #25421085 - 08/29/18 10:04 AM (5 years, 4 months ago)

Quote:

Ferather said:
Since mycelium don't get fat, as such, I wonder if slow mycelium is slow due to production rate of enzymes.


Based on a nutritional substrate, ignoring nutrient deficiency:

Lets say a fast mycelium produces 100 enzymes in a given area (for example 20cm) per hour, and a slow one only produces 25.
This would effect the rate solubles are produced and absorbed, which are then used to grow out and do more.


Since mycelium stall and die on 100% sugars, (all C-H-O no nitrogen-other), I doubt they stop absorbing already present solubles.
Like humans, mycelium would shutdown enzyme-other in order to stop absorbing too much (fatal amounts).

An alternative senescence can be caused by nitrogen-other depletion on a soluble carbon source.
All enzymes require nitrogen to be produced, therefor depletion will cause stalling.

In order for mycelium to remain healthy on a 100% soluble carbon source, it must be spendable.





Ha, I have inadvertantly done an experiment along these lines on my last grain jars. As a "why not", I dumped a couple cups of granulated sugar into my grain soak bucket before pouring the boiling water over the grain. After PC'ing I noc'd some with agar for master jars, and some G2G. The cultures that do not like it are P. galindoi, P. tampanesis, and two cube strains (Gulf Coast and PESH). While they are pulling out of their shock, I did lose a jar each of the galindoi and tamps that just gave up.

Interestingly though, my sporeless "Purple Mystic" cube that I revived after the LC sat for three years in my culture fridge LOVED the added sugar! Took a quart Master to 8 quarts of the sugared grains and in 7 days they were fully colonized. I'm wondering if it had to do with the myc being starved for so long...


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Ferather]
    #25423585 - 08/30/18 10:00 AM (5 years, 4 months ago)

Cool. :smile:


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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Adas] * 1
    #25441691 - 09/07/18 03:04 AM (5 years, 4 months ago)

Here are pics from my refurbished P. allenii bed. I raked the old colonized wood chips (and compost) away from the edges and installed 8' treated landscape timbers. The allenii will eventually eat them too, but it'll take a few years... I filled the gap between the timbers and block foundation with "all purpose" sand to keep slugs and bugs from living in the gap. After installing the timbers, I raked the old wood chips back out flat and compressed them by walking on a sheet tray over the wood chips to distribute my weight more evenly. After watering the old myc thoroughly, I then added around 3" of new fresh hardwood chips on top, mounding to the center of the row. Finally, I thoroughly watered the new chips.

Next, I built the frames for my row covers. I will be installing a drip line down the beds in the next couple weeks, so the row covers will help hold humidity in and give me better control of overall moisture content of the bed and fruits. They will also protect the fruits from being beaten by rain, keeping them much cleaner and less bruised. It will also protect them from frost damage.

The frames are made from 6' wooden slats (10 for $10 at Lowe's), and 9-gauge galvanized steel wire. My bed's inside dimensions are 29.5'Lx21"W, so using a cloth measuring tape I cut the arches at 38". This length was perfect for the right height and enough spring resistance to use retention to keep the frames in place. I used a few screws on the timbers to help lock the frames in place in case of strong winds. To attach the arches to the wood slats, I just drilled  holes in each slat (18" spacing) and pushed the arches into the wood slats. Once the temps start to drop I'll finish skinning the covers with plastic, and build removable end caps to help increase CO2 levels for taller fruits. Come season I will also be hanging an outdoor set of blue LED lights from the peak of the row hoops to help stimulate pinning, which will be ran on a timer for a few hours before dawn every morning.

And now for the star of the post... The electric slug fence! If you haven't seen these yet, crawl out from under your rock and YouTube that shit. If you have heard of them and have held off on building one, stop waiting and build one ASAP before season! They are the most humane and efficient means of slug/snail control, and by FAR the funniest!

:wizard: :slug:


Over the past couple nights since I built it there hasn't been one slime trail on my new chips. If they get trapped on the inside somehow you can easily flip them out of the bed and they won't go back in, hence why I built it early enough that I can get rid of any baby slugs that hatch before season when pinning begins.

After I got all the row cover frames in place (for spacing), I ran the ground wire on the outside of the top of the timbers and the positive on the bed-side of the timbers. Tried to keep the spacing around 3/4"-1", using a staple gun and small hammer to anchor the wire to the wood. If you need more instruction on how to build one, YouTube it. There are many videos, including mine.





Here's two vids, one of the bed that explains the fence too, and the second is the fence working and how I built it.



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Offlineghiajake
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Re: The Official Woodlovers Thread [Re: Adas] * 1
    #25441927 - 09/07/18 06:34 AM (5 years, 4 months ago)

The positive line does ground through their bodies to the wet wood too. One of the big slugs was able to take it, until he crossed the positive and hit the ground wire. I'm sure it's not completely fool-proof, but baby slugs don't eat near as much as the big fuckers. Slugs/snails are more conductive than us, and much more sensitive to shock than us. Especially when they take it to the face or eye stalk... Watch the second video. As to the battery life, I'll update when I need to change the battery. It should only drain it when a slug shorts it out.


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