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Fellow Traveler Registered: 08/04/17 Posts: 13 Loc: The roosters sho Last seen: 1 year, 30 days |
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Post deleted by BruisedThumb
Reason for deletion: I just won't debate this topic. It was meant to be advice, not a challenge. -------------------- Never stop reading. The reward is worth the effort, only if you find the effort worth the endeavor. Edited by BruisedThumb (08/05/17 03:27 AM)
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Fellow Traveler Registered: 08/04/17 Posts: 13 Loc: The roosters sho Last seen: 1 year, 30 days |
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Common misconceptions:
1. "Oil should be changed every 3 months/3k miles." The truth is, it's entirely circumstantial. If your vehicle has less than 170k miles, and no known operation issues, then every 4-6k is perfectly acceptable. As long as when you check that dipstick, the oil is a light gold/medium Amber color, you're fine. Black, dark brown, or molasses textured oil is a bad sign. Use appropriate engine flushers, or get into a mechanic. Bonus tip: though changing the oil filter isn't necessary every time, changing it at least other will help to keep your oil running smoothly. 2. "Having a standard transmission will gain you horsepower." Again, this is dependent on the owner, or driver of the vehicle. Once you get in tune with the feel of your clutch, and the tension of your shifter, your shift time will improve, you'll stall less, and with luck, you'll know the optimal time for up/down shifting, and when to ride neutral. Someone who knows how to set a good interval can do a lot, but it's ultimately up to the driver to shift, and gain or lose power. 3."I live in a county that doesn't require e-check, so I don't need catalytic converters." False, false, false. It is a federal law that any motor vehicle made after 1975 be equipped with the emissions equipment setup it originally came with. The clean air act made it even more strict on emissions laws. California has the most strict. The only exceptions to these laws, are pre 1975 vehicles, registered race cars, and any motor vehicle that did not come equipped with emissions configurations. Note, that if the epa catches a person converter tampering, it's a $30k fine. 4:"Replacing stock exhaust with a wider diameter will increase horsepower." This is another "yes, and no." For most vehicles, you'll be lucky to squeeze an extra 4-5 hp by opening the flow. However, in reality most vehicles are more harmed by lowering back pressure than they're relieved. Unless you're towing frequently, or you have a vehicle that is truly meant to fire pistons at an accelerated rate; you're wasting money. If sound is what you want, install a glass pack muffler, or even eliminate your stock mufflers, and/or resonators. I'll continue to update this as I have time. In the meantime, I hope to get some good questions. -------------------- Never stop reading. The reward is worth the effort, only if you find the effort worth the endeavor.
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Stranger Registered: 11/01/14 Posts: 12,258 Last seen: 1 day, 36 minutes |
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Less question and more how to request:
I got an 03 camry about to hit 200k miles. Runs fine, except oil leaks into engine on cold days. Recently, I noticed radiator draining within a week. I've specifically been checking for puddles and can't find any. Sometimes the car makes boiling noises out of the radiator cap after a 35 mile commute. It's also 90 outside most days. Still, it shouldn't be empty in a week. I'm guessing leak? Second: I wanna keep this car running for at least another year. I don't wanna buy a car in school. Ideally, this would be a cheap fix that lasts long enough for me to sell the car. Would something like a flashlight and RTV silicone be enough?
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Stranger Registered: 11/01/14 Posts: 12,258 Last seen: 1 day, 36 minutes |
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Hey, nevermind, don't worry about it:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums
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Registered: 06/02/03 Posts: 26,670 |
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Quote: The combination sounds like a blown head gasket to me, causing both oil and coolant to spill. Sometimes, the gasket blows outside (although into one of the cylinders is more common), making oil spill out of the engine. When you wrote about oil leaking into the engine, I assume you actually meant the engine bay, not the engine itself. If oil spills out of the engine and particularly out of the rear of the engine (e.g. where the cylinder head and the block are mated), the oil can spill onto the exhaust or exhaust manifold, starting a fire. Going by your description of where the fire started, this is a likely cause in my opinion. Either way, with your next car, if appreciable amounts of oil spill into the engine bay, I hope you now realize that you actually have to do something about it instead of basically ignoring the problem and asking about flashlights and silicone being sufficient to patch things up - they usually aren't
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Stranger Registered: 11/01/14 Posts: 12,258 Last seen: 1 day, 36 minutes |
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I don't think that was the cause, since the oil leaking had been going on for literally a quarter of the car's life. And if it was, the fix was more expensive than the car itself according to the mechanic, so...
They did mention something about a blown rear gasket, but this was a while ago. Edited by Kryptos (08/15/17 12:40 PM)
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Registered: 06/02/03 Posts: 26,670 |
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There's a number of seals and o-rings on the engine block that could be responsible for this, but since the leak was located towards the rear of the block (apparently), this pretty much rules out the crankshaft and camshaft seals, leaving basically the valve cover seal and the head gasket as most likely culprits.
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Stranger Registered: 11/01/14 Posts: 12,258 Last seen: 1 day, 36 minutes |
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Fire report came back, said mechanical failure. Not sure how much I believe it, they say something snapped, wheel well fell on tire, friction, ignition, bye bye car.
Makes sense from a fire location standpoint, and my driver's side front tire was by far the most destroyed of the tires, but I didn't *hear* a snap, my suspension just suddenly got all wiggly (which, from longboarding experience, could easily be friction on a wheel).
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Katso Grower Registered: 06/07/17 Posts: 334 Last seen: 8 months, 6 days |
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I've got an old car with a carby. It idles nicely when it's warm and accelerates like a new car, but when cruising at a single speed (that is, when I try to keep my foot steady and sit on the speed limit) it sounds slurpy and lurches a little bit, so I have to slow down and speed up constantly.
Ideas? -------------------- Long time lurker and learner!
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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So my exhaust is super loud but that's not the problem
![]() I've got something a little more advanced for you..... 2016 VW Golf R (Stage 3) Performance mods: - Engine fully rebuilt at 24k (blown turbo) - Block bored out 0.5mm - IE Mahle spec 83mm forged pistons - IE Tuscan forged connecting rods - new seals, rings and bushings - ARP bolts - Balanced - LOBA LO462 Turbo - capable of 470+ HP. - Custom stage 2+ tune - Unitronic carbon fiber intake - Unitronic Intercooler - Neuspeed turbo discharge pipe - CTS throttle pipe - CTS turbo inlet tube - Autotech High volume fuel pump - Bull-X catted downpipe - Ego-X catback exhaust - Aquamist HFS-4 Water/Methanol injection - 1x 0.7mm nozzle pre charge pipe (running 50/50... NOT tuned for meth - just using it for the cooling / slight octane boost) That covers most of the engine stuff, I think. Have not had it dynoed yet... but we are estimated it's sitting around ~460 BHP So it runs like a dream, only every once in a while (3 times so far) I have thrown codes and gone into limp mode while going WOT - only during WOT at the upper limits of the power band Cannot easily recreate it. Have tried while logging with VCDS and can't make it happen when I'm trying. Symptoms: In 4th or 5th, downshift to accelerate to merge onto highway, floor it and going WOT. At the upper limits it feels like it stutters or is gasping for a split second.. then sudden power loss, EPC light comes on, go into limp mode.. have to roll to a stop and shut down and turn back on and then back to normal (with check engine light) Scanned for codes all three times it happened and got similar codes: Code: ------------------------------- Code: ------------------------------- Code: ------------------------------- After the first codes, I replaced the spark plugs and coil packs thinking that might have been the cause of the misfires. No misfires after that but got the issue 2 more times after. The cylinder pressure too high makes me think I'm running into an overboost issue... but I have no idea what would effect that. People have told me most likely tune related? My two biggest suspect are: Fueling issue. The symptoms *feels* like it's struggling for fuel at the upper limits and that's when the issue happens. I've read on this platform, the stock fueling is good up until about ~400HP and I am definitely around there or quite a bit above. The LPFP is supposed to be the weakest link in the chain... so I might start with that. I have THIS on my list of future upgrades. The injectors on the R are supposed to be higher flow than the GTI and capable of even higher power levels, so I'm not leaning toward injectors just yet. Plus that's a much more expensive endeavor.. So I'll probably start with LPFP. If I ever go the injector route it will probably be at the same time I'll just replace the intake manifold with a more robust aftermarket one with bungs for meth direct injection. Tune issue. My tune came from a EU motorsports firm (can't remember the name.. ) it was a "conservative "base" tune" that they sent when the tuner built this engine with this turbo. At the time the turbo was brand new and no one had any maps for it on this engine except this company. I'm suspecting the tune may be part of the issue, it's maybe a little TOO conservative? I'm going to get it re-tuned at some point, most likely United Motorsports as I've heard tons of good things about them for big turbo tunes. Think I'm on the right track or is there other things I should check?
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Fellow Traveler Registered: 08/04/17 Posts: 13 Loc: The roosters sho Last seen: 1 year, 30 days |
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I've heard many stories just like yours, and usually the fix is coil packs, and plugs. Since you've been through those, I have a few other mentions.
-"People have told me most likely tune related?" -"it's maybe a little TOO conservative?" I would have to agree with whomever advised you that you might have tuning issues. When you install aftermarket parts meant to increase performance, generally you want to have it tuned for the new setup. When the vehicle is unprepared for higher performance, you are making it "run tired." In essence, you want the capability to exceed the given ability. Otherwise, you'll incur breakdown of parts that aren't meant for such use. Also, when you install aftermarket performance parts, it helps a lot to upgrade any parts that would be affected by the initial changeover. I.e aftermarket turbos run optimally in conjunction with an external wastegate to control the additional boost and power. The combination of codes you're tripping leads me to think you might need an ECU upgrade. If you're still using stock on board computers, they'll only keep up with performance upgrades for so long. Eventually, intake will be off time, along with injectors, and even PCM; hence your internal control module performance code. One weak link in the CANbus system, and the entirety of the system can be compromised. That one upgrade could very well take care of most of your problems. But.. Any parts, or processes that have already been affected will need returned to proper status before initiating a new processor. I assume at stage 3 you're using a higher octane fuel? Obviously, never exceed what the upgrades recommend, but at your current mod level, id eliminate the methane, keep up use of high octane, and if cooling is an issue, upgrade your intercooler. The methane could be a catalyst for your issues to begin with. Bad mixtures, or unbalanced levels within cylinders will certainly cause pressure issues. Too much methane and your firing high pressure, high heat (also causing backfires, and damage.) Too much water causes misfires, bad airflow readings, rust within the block. I'm willing to bet between upgrading the ECU to a stage 3 fully customizable, and removing the methane injection you'll cut the head off of the snake, so to speak. If I were in your position, I'd take care of those two things before delving any further. If I'm wrong, then you aren't any further ahead or behind. But, if I'm right, then you save yourself a lot of money, a lot of headaches, and a lot of work (assuming you do your own work) There's so much more I could say about the setup you have in relation to the codes your reading. For now, I'll see if you respond, and proceed accordingly.
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Fellow Traveler Registered: 08/04/17 Posts: 13 Loc: The roosters sho Last seen: 1 year, 30 days |
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A few questions; which word better describes what you mean by "lurch?" Would hesitation be a good word? Or does stuttering better describe it?
Does this tend to happen more at the beginning of gear change, the middle, or the end? What rpm does this occur? Check engine light? If you would, could you be more detailed about the slurp?
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Fellow Traveler Registered: 08/04/17 Posts: 13 Loc: The roosters sho Last seen: 1 year, 30 days |
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Quote: Damn, dude! Glad you're ok.
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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Quote: Ok a few things to clear things up: All the aftermarket upgrades were already done (including turbo) when it was tuned for the turbo. But like I said... this was like a... first-gen.. "beta" tune. The turbo was brand new when it was installed and only this one company had a tune for it. So I'm leaning heavily towards that's the case and the tune just has a few hiccups or bumps being a really early tune. There's more options now so I will probably get it re-tuned at some point. Second.. the ECU doesn't actually get upgraded or replaced in any way. All tuning is done through the OBDII port now on the new gens. No longer do we have someone open up our ECU and soldering and shit, just plug in the dongle and flash the tune. I'm not sure if that's true for all makes/models now.. but I know at least in the VAG world that's how it is, all the 2013+ ECUs are flashed directly through the OBD port. Just like a firmware upgrade for your computer. I am not using higher octane fuel. I'm in CA where shitty 91 is the best we can get at the pump in most places Can find ethanol at some places, and have to go to the race track to get higher octane fuels. I may get setup for an E85 mix later... all that requires is to upgrade my LPFP. That was actually part of the reason for installing a meth system, so I could help boost octane. But mostly for the cooling and valve cleaning. I actually had all these issues BEFORE I ever installed the meth system, probably should have mentioned that, heh. Actually hasn't happened once since installing the methanol kit, and I've tried... so I assumed it was helping some. Hence why I was kind of leaning towards a fueling issue. Because the meth adds a little bit of fuel, and at max throttle, it's pumping out the most. I haven't seen it stutter and bog like it did those times, once I installed the methanol. I'm not too worried about it though, because I went the safe route with it. I'm only using a 50/50 water/meth mix. I only have ONE nozzle and it's injecting right after the intercooler, so it gets maximum atomization before hitting the throttle body. Probably doesn't boost octane much at all, due to only one nozzle and the distance from the cylinders, it more just helps with reducing the Intake Air Temps, and whatever "cleaning" benefits and minor octane boost I can get with it, I happily accept. Also the Aquamist is a progressive system and I have it tuned somewhat conservative, so starts of gradual and I don't have it hitting max flow until about 80% IDC Did not TUNE for meth or advance timing or mess with AFRs or anything, so there's really no worry about catastrophic failure or anything if the meth fails (unless my FAV completely shits the bed or something and just continuously pumps and hydrolocks), but not too worried about that, Aquamist units have some of the best failsafes of any methanol kit. It's supposed to be THE best actually. My intercooler is pretty much the best on the market so can't really upgrade that. But yeah I live in Socal and it gets hot so any little bit of cooling is welcome, and my car loooooves cooler intake air temps. So yeah, I really don't think the meth is part of the issue. But yeah I really am leaning towards a tune issue. I will probably do that first... if that doesn't fix it I'm fairly it will be fueling related.. as the issue ONLY happens at the absolute max RPM / WOT when I'm pushing it hard as shit, and people with much much more knowledge of VAG cars have told me the LPFP is the weakest link in the stock fueling system and starts to get iffy around 400HP.
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Katso Grower Registered: 06/07/17 Posts: 334 Last seen: 8 months, 6 days |
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I think stuttering would be a good description.
The car is old enough that it doesnt have a taco, so I don't know what the revs would be, but if I had to guess I'd say anything above about 1500 revs. The revs it happens at though doesn't seem as much of an indication (as it is fine during acceleration), it is more of a problem when sitting at constant revs. It feels like incomplete combustion. I tried to retune the carby a week ago and that smoothed out the idle, but made the 'stuttering' worse - so I might have adjusted the mixture towards too rich. It also has an aftermarket carburetor, where originally it would have had twin carbs, it now has a single double-barrel carb. It's been suggested to me that it simply isn't an appropriate carby for this engine. Anyway, I'm going to go back to basics. Clean the spark plugs, clean and tighten connections, reset the timing with a light and then retune the carby. If this doesn't clear it up, Ill look at taking it to the mechanics. -------------------- Long time lurker and learner!
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