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OfflineGan
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: Gan]
    #26718914 - 06/04/20 01:16 PM (8 months, 25 days ago)

Also, does anyone know or have any reasoning why a properly rated HEPA with a thickness other than 6" wouldn't work for a flow hood? I know some people have 12" HEPA FH that work, but what about a 4" thick HEPA? Assuming it has proper resistance for laminar flow


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Offlinejuvec
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Gan]
    #26722687 - 06/05/20 10:14 PM (8 months, 24 days ago)

Hi BOD.

Learned pretty much all i need from you. Class act.

First timer, my jars are on their way as im writing this.

BUT, I could not get my hands on the exact tubs you use for your unmodified tek. I'm following every other step in unmod-tek though.

My tubs have smaller and irregular air holes if i flip the lids. Would you suggest i go for a "normal" 6 hole approach instead of unmodified because of this?

If i choose the 6-hole approach, can i still go straight from spawning to fruiting conditions like you do? Or will i need do all that taping holes shit when colonizing, then switch to polyfill, like other people suggest?

Thanks a lot. Sorry if you've already answered this numerous times.


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InvisiblebodhisattaM
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Re: [STICKY] ⚠ Where to Start Flow Chart, QnA, and helpful links ⚠ [Re: Gan]
    #26723364 - 06/06/20 06:55 AM (8 months, 24 days ago)

Quote:

Gan said:
Anyone have any idea if this HEPA would work for a flowhood? it seems cheaper than others. I assume that's for a reason and it's not useful for my purposes.

https://damnfilters.com/products/hepa-filter-24-x-24-x-6-700-cfm-99-99-particle-board



Call and ask if it produces laminar flow.


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InvisiblebodhisattaM
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: juvec]
    #26723365 - 06/06/20 06:56 AM (8 months, 24 days ago)

Quote:

juvec said:
Hi BOD.

Learned pretty much all i need from you. Class act.

First timer, my jars are on their way as im writing this.

BUT, I could not get my hands on the exact tubs you use for your unmodified tek. I'm following every other step in unmod-tek though.

My tubs have smaller and irregular air holes if i flip the lids. Would you suggest i go for a "normal" 6 hole approach instead of unmodified because of this?

If i choose the 6-hole approach, can i still go straight from spawning to fruiting conditions like you do? Or will i need do all that taping holes shit when colonizing, then switch to polyfill, like other people suggest?

Thanks a lot. Sorry if you've already answered this numerous times.



Youll figure it out. Lots of tubs work in lots of configurations


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OfflineDabrit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26724346 - 06/06/20 05:02 PM (8 months, 23 days ago)

Just noticed you actually have a Q&A sticky thread so sorry for the PM.

Just wanna make sure this looks safe to transfer from and is in fact not cobweb or some other kind of mold? This is a plate directly inoculated with a spore syringe.



Thanks


--------------------
Psychedelics = True gateway to spiritual enlightenment and detachment from ones meat costume :wink:




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InvisiblebodhisattaM
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Dabrit]
    #26724446 - 06/06/20 05:49 PM (8 months, 23 days ago)

Probably good. Next plate will be more revealing


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OfflineDabrit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26724467 - 06/06/20 06:02 PM (8 months, 23 days ago)

Quote:

bodhisatta said:
Probably good. Next plate will be more revealing




Cheers fella


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OfflineTrivial R
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Dabrit]
    #26727998 - 06/08/20 04:46 AM (8 months, 22 days ago)

Hy there!

Great posts guys, a lot of good info!


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OfflineSasquatch119
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Trivial R]
    #26739781 - 06/12/20 04:42 PM (8 months, 17 days ago)

So I need help. Idk if this is a contam or not. Seeing lots of growth even from this morning but the tub smells like a marker and there’s little white dots everywhere. I need to know if I need to cry and throw it out of my house. The sub is a rye berry all in one compost bag. It didn’t smell when I first opened the bag but it does now.



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Offlinekeysintheireyes
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Sasquatch119]
    #26741443 - 06/13/20 11:31 AM (8 months, 16 days ago)

Bod, thanks for all of your guidance and leadership on this site; you are a true shaman.

Question: I’m referencing all of your teks for a grow I’m about to do and wanted to know if you ever made any videos on your inoculation process? Just received my syringes and have everything ready to go. I’ve only ever done cakes like two decades ago so had the 4 noc points. I’m now doing the quart jars with oats per your guidance and wanted to know about the one noc point.

Do you shake after inoculation? Do you just have one point of 1cc per quart? Do you place the micro tape over the noc hole immediately after? Maybe I missed this from your teks I have saved.

Thanks


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Offlinekeysintheireyes
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: DeusExMachina222]
    #26741704 - 06/13/20 02:16 PM (8 months, 16 days ago)

Quote:

DeusExMachina222 said:
So am I correct in interpreting the flowchart as saying that one should ideally not inoculate grain with a spore syringe? (legal culinary of course) Even if the bag (say rye) is sterilized in a spawn bag and all precautions are observed?

THANKS FOR THIS!!

PS, apologies if I am overlooking an answer in the search feature... My lysdexia could've kicked in and I missed it altogether)




This is my question too. I thought spores from a syringe to oats was a perfectly fine way to go? Now I think I might have messed up.

Edit: Goddamnit. Just read the whole agar tek and realize where I messed  up but can’t really invest all of that time in learning how to do agar now. Fuck it. I’m just going to return the presto, glad it’s still in the box.


Edited by keysintheireyes (06/13/20 05:02 PM)


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OfflineGan
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: keysintheireyes]
    #26741910 - 06/13/20 04:12 PM (8 months, 16 days ago)

Spores to grain is not the ideal way. It can work, but its more of a crapshoot than anything. Spores aren't 100% clean unless cultivated in a very controlled and sterile manner. Therefore, spore syringes aren't clean either. So, if you don't clean up your culture on agar first, you run the risk of injecting spores and contamination into your grain jars. Only thing I'd halfway recommend using straight syringe on are BRF cakes


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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Gan]
    #26743960 - 06/14/20 01:40 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

Hey! Having some issues with potency. Following tek to a T, but have been soaking grain overnight to reduce boil time, and pouring off the soak water first. 2 questions.

1. Am I reducing nutes by pouring off the soak water instead of boiling that?
2. If I save the oat water for boiling to do bucket tek coir will I increase nutes there? (I use lme for agar) Thoughts?

Also, when I make coir if I use more than 2.5L for a 650g dry as a bone brick I go above field cap. What gives? I can’t make sense of it. Any idea?


Edited by Antitemplar (06/14/20 03:04 PM)


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OfflineInthepit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Antitemplar]
    #26744112 - 06/14/20 03:30 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

People do save their grain water and add maybe 50% to the water in their agar recipie.
10g Agar, 7.5g LME, 500mL 50% Oat Broth

For grain try this Crackatoa's easy oats

Shoebox Coir - 4 tubs
1) coir, 650g x 1.864 mL/g = 1211.6 mL water, for 5 jars coir, break it up.
1.2) coir, 500g x 1.87 mL/g= 935 mL water
2) Boil a pot of water and put into a cooler for 10 min to pre-heat the cooler
3) Heat 1211.6+ mL
4) Dump out the hot cooler water
5) Add the coir to the cooler, then pour the measured warm water over it. no hot water on the coir
6) Close lid, wait 60 min
7) After an hour stir up the coir to try make sure you don't get dry spots. Ok some dry clumps, not too dry~.
8) Wait until cool enough to put in jars. (3 hrs)
9) 1:1 myc to coir, 8 jars, 4 tubs and a thin layer on top from the 5th jar,  level and tamp the edges good.
10) Spray Bottle the surface well.
11) Snap the lids and go away!
spawn run is 8-10 days. pins in 10-14 days. harvest in 15-21 days.(best case)
12) Flip the lids when there's pins.
13) Mist, let dry, mist, etc.
14) Harvest, make some prints, clearcut and dunk for ? An hour?
15) Take a clone, RR picks a clone


(Sorry Bodhi, I was bored and just kept editing. )


Edited by Inthepit (06/14/20 04:14 PM)


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OnlineBobbit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Antitemplar]
    #26744226 - 06/14/20 04:29 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

Quote:

Antitemplar said:
Hey! Having some issues with potency. Following tek to a T, but have been soaking grain overnight to reduce boil time, and pouring off the soak water first. 2 questions.

1. Am I reducing nutes by pouring off the soak water instead of boiling that?
2. If I save the oat water for boiling to do bucket tek coir will I increase nutes there? (I use lme for agar) Thoughts?

Also, when I make coir if I use more than 2.5L for a 650g dry as a bone brick I go above field cap. What gives? I can’t make sense of it. Any idea?



Not sure potency corellates directly to nutes. . ?

1. Probably losing a little nutes. . . Doubt it makes too much difference.
2. Bucket tek is designed to be 'available nutrient free'. A assume adding sugars will increase your chances of contamination :shrug:

Bod's coir tek is 1:5 coir:water IIRC. There is also a comment about 'your' coir and having to test till you get it right. I use 1:4.5 with the brand I'm using, sounds like you have to go even lower. Have you tried a few handfuls of edit: vermiculite to dry it out a bit till you find your balamce?


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The Official Kiwi Cultivators Thread

Official New Zealand woodlovers grow thread

–––––    ╭∩╮(-_-)╭∩╮    –––––
The Official Kiwi DMT and MAOI Thread


Edited by Bobbit (06/14/20 07:32 PM)


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Offlinepeterdude
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Bobbit]
    #26744298 - 06/14/20 05:25 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

Thank you so much for all of these posts, they have been very valuable guides to me (first time grower) so far! I am going to be attempting this unmodified tek shortly and I just have a couple of questions:

I am planning to use a 3lb grain spawn bag (estimated to be about 3-4 qts) in the suggested 54qt sterilite tub. Keeping the proportion of spawn:coir the same as the tutorial, I'm planning to use about 350g of coco coir as substrate. Since this would be about half of the total volume used in the tutorial with the same 54 qt tub, I am concerned that the grain-substrate mixture will not create a tall enough layer. If anyone has had a similar experience to this, I am curious if it was a problem for you. If it seems like this would be a problem, is there a way for me to increase the volume of the mixture without harming mushroom growth? Since I cannot find the same sterilite tub in 32qt, I would like to stick with the 54qt tub and make other adjustments, if necessary.

I also have some vermiculite, which I have seen some people include in their substrate mixture. I am wondering if this is something that is generally advised if one has vermiculite at their disposal. If so, how should I go about mixing it in? Does the vermiculite need to be sterilized at all? How much vermiculite should I add?

I tried to find the answers to these questions without any luck, so hopefully there aren't any repeats. My apologies in advance if these are. Thank you for the help!


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OfflineAntitemplar
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Bobbit]
    #26744350 - 06/14/20 05:49 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

I’ve never used gypsum. I don’t own any. This is about where I’ve found the balance 650/2.5L. You might be right about contams. I didn’t consider that. Might be worth trying a single jar shoebox or something first if nobody else chimes in with experience with this particular experiment. Could I be using too much coir on some tubs? I was having issues with mean green and losing some jars so I’d eyeball the grain to coir.


Edited by Antitemplar (06/14/20 05:51 PM)


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OnlineBobbit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Antitemplar]
    #26744558 - 06/14/20 07:39 PM (8 months, 15 days ago)

Quote:

Antitemplar said:
I’ve never used gypsum. I don’t own any. This is about where I’ve found the balance 650/2.5L. You might be right about contams. I didn’t consider that. Might be worth trying a single jar shoebox or something first if nobody else chimes in with experience with this particular experiment. Could I be using too much coir on some tubs? I was having issues with mean green and losing some jars so I’d eyeball the grain to coir.



Sorry dude, I meant Vermiculite, to dry your bucketed coir. . .

I've successfully fruited 6:1 & 8:1 for a few flushes. . . They take longer to colonise, though if clean should go a few rounds. I'm finding with 6:1 that I average 38g/myco-quart off my first flush and the biological efficiency raises (not that bio. eff. is considered much here). . .


--------------------
The Official Kiwi Cultivators Thread

Official New Zealand woodlovers grow thread

–––––    ╭∩╮(-_-)╭∩╮    –––––
The Official Kiwi DMT and MAOI Thread


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OfflinePolymorphicFloundr
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: Bobbit]
    #26759710 - 06/20/20 01:48 PM (8 months, 9 days ago)

Hey Bod, I have been reading through all of your teks. I am finally beginning to understand. I have a question regarding agar. What is the point of doing transfers? Is it just a way to clone? Or does it having something to do with reducing contamination? I always hear people talking about healthy transfers.


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OfflineInthepit
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Re: Where to Start Flow Chart and helpful links also ask your questions here Q&A [Re: PolymorphicFloundr]
    #26759774 - 06/20/20 02:31 PM (8 months, 9 days ago)

If I may, fellow noobie here. There's just tons of contamination
at every turn. You need to learn what good and bad looks like.
So the first thing is separating the good from the bad.
Just get good at pouring agar, making transfers till ya get pretty plates.
Try this helpful guide How it should & shouldn't look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE

Happy pours!


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GLOSSARY        Getting Started      :chugbeer:        My LAGM21    Do you exist?


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