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DivineDirt
Amateur



Registered: 03/31/17
Posts: 18
Last seen: 7 years, 7 months
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Re: My auto chamber! [Re: c10h12n2o]
#24261187 - 04/21/17 06:49 AM (7 years, 8 months ago) |
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c10h12n2o said: looks like op bought a kit and "followed teh instructions" 
so much of this shit going on lately.... someone posts a thread and criticizes and talks shit to the people who volunteer info, and then deletes their pics and posts in a display of impotent rage at not hearing exactly what they wanted to hear
makes it very clear they dont give a shit about the people who come here to read and learn from discussion and others mistakes... they couldnt care less about polluting the search engines with useless threads where all the useful info references deleted pics and posts.... utter selfishness, shitting on the community in every way they know how
imo, people who do this shit will never contribute anything except complaints, wed be better off with no one who does this... its only #2 on the fucking rules 
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2. Do not ask a question, and then when you get your answer, delete your original post as if we're your personal unpaid research assistants. For every poster, there's 1000 lurkers who use the search engine to find their answers and never post. Don't screw them by deleting your question, thus making the search engine return crap. Users who violate this rule will be officially warned, and repeat offenders will be banned.
christ i hate millennials... its like perpetual adolescence... if you arent underage, quit acting like it
Dude. I didn't buy a kit, I bought every individual device I needed to mimic a SGFC so I wouldn't have to use perlite. The reason I was pissed was because even though this thing I spent a whole lot of time designing got shit on like it's completely worthless. If it works just as well as the usual methods why attack it like that? All I did was replace perlite with my own humidifier.
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mynakedrat
The phantom hourglass


Registered: 02/16/17
Posts: 4,629
Loc: Inner Astral levels
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Just gotta adjust that timeing. I'd do 5 minutes every hr or two to dial it in. And get it farther away from. The cake. You'll saturate and just have a ness
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Just_A_Noob



Registered: 12/30/16
Posts: 6,809
Loc: PNW
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How did I know this was coming after the first post? Lol. Pure gold. got me giggling
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Mad Season
hookers and blackjack



Registered: 09/16/12
Posts: 12,666
Loc: Canada
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Dafuq is this huge aversion to perlite?
Perlite is so fuckin cheap. Much cheaper than timers, and humidifiers, which aren't even important anyways..
Perlite is effective because it uses moisture to push air up, it's epic for fae and it is literally replacing the air every second.. This is the highest fae possible, and has been proven over the last decade time and time again to be more effective than any form of forced method. But what do I know?..
Edited by Mad Season (04/21/17 07:16 AM)
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DivineDirt
Amateur



Registered: 03/31/17
Posts: 18
Last seen: 7 years, 7 months
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Quote:
mynakedrat said: Just gotta adjust that timeing. I'd do 5 minutes every hr or two to dial it in. And get it farther away from. The cake. You'll saturate and just have a ness
Sounds like a plan.
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DivineDirt
Amateur



Registered: 03/31/17
Posts: 18
Last seen: 7 years, 7 months
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Quote:
Mad Season said: Dafuq is this huge aversion to perlite?
Perlite is so fuckin cheap. Much cheaper than timers, and humidifiers, which aren't even important anyways..
I'm just gonna buy some perlite if this thing doesn't work. It's really not a big deal if I lose this cake I have seven more almost done colonizing.
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Mad Season
hookers and blackjack



Registered: 09/16/12
Posts: 12,666
Loc: Canada
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do you actually think you got this? You're reinventing fruiting, with literally no experience of fruiting? Do you know how many before you did this bs and switched to a sgfc? Are all the people who understand the mechanics and how a passive air system works just that retarded to you that you needed to reinvent it?
Years and years of people tried this and they came up with passive chambers, you're really not reinventing anything, and harming yourself. But what do I know? I bet you'll come in here with 6 shrooms all high and mighty about how it worked, and my response will be that's exactly how hardy cubensis is.
I can tell you haven't done any actual reading or you'd have found a few of these..
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Mad Season said: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/dosearch.php?where=body&tosearch=both&how=all&words=automated&namebox=RogerRabbit&limit=25&sort=d&way=d
What RR has to say about automation..
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RogerRabbit said: This is at least the 1,000th time this exact thread has been duplicated. The answers haven't changed.
People still confuse substrate moisture with humidity level for some reason. They also don't seem to understand that the humidity of the room or even the middle of the fruiting chamber is irrelevant. The only humidity that matters is right at the pinning surface. If you saturate that surface, pins won't form.
Persons who want to automate growing should get a few dozen grows under their belts first so they'll realize what they're up against.
I'm an electrical engineer with a lifelong specialty in industrial automation. I'm also an entrepreneur so you can bet your last nickel if mushroom growing was suited to automation I'd have a microprocessor on the market with all the peripheral devices for exactly that purpose. Instead, my commercial mushroom farm is set up to be 100% passive, along the lines of a shotgun terrarium, just ramped up with tall stacks on top to get the required draft. RR
25 is also pretty warm but not too warm. I do like 21ish just fine, so no need for a box to control temp if the room isn't too cold.
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It's the dream of every young geek who enters the hobby to fully automate his setup and then hide it in a closet where mommy can't find it, as if she never goes there. Noobs also obsess over humidity for some reason when fresh air and light are far more important.
Such is not the purpose of this site, nor has science developed transducers which will operate in the conditions we require. Lazy people always fail at this because you quite frankly need to be checking your crop several times daily to remove moldy substrates and do other chores. RR
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RogerRabbit said: There's no such thing as an automated terrarium. A shotgun terrarium will maintain the humidity and fresh air you require, but there's no way to automate misting, which requires eyeballs and a human brain to know when and how much. RR
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RogerRabbit said:
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theshiz777 said: If using wbs cased with verm in a mono tub, and your using a tropic air humidifier, should the humidifier wand be placed near the top of the mono tub or closer to the casing layer at the bottom? And why? Wasnt sure if water droplets landing on top of caps would cause harm.
Neither.
Pumping a humidifier into a small tub will saturate the substrate, ruining performance. A monotub will already be at the correct humidity level. Air exchanges occur through the holes. Monotubs and shotgun terrariums should not use any mechanical means of humidity or air exchange. RR
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RogerRabbit said:
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Mush4Brains said: Monotub = autotub.
Exactly. Anything he adds is going to ruin the performance.
To the OP, exactly what parameters do you think your processor can control? How is it going to sense substrate moisture content? Do you have an analog CO2 detector to control the fresh air exchange? We get at least two 'automated' tub threads per week, but in the decade I've been around here, nobody has pulled one off. The reason is that the basic monotub and shotgun work far better than anything with humidifiers, etc. RR
But if you're determined to find out on your own, go for it. Its not like you can tell the difference between good fae and not, or too much saturation, or that as RR said in the first quite, humidity isn't all that important. If you had a grasp of all the concepts, you could make this work, but I know you don't, and you're going to just be wasting your time. Do this shit after you've learned the parameters of their growth.
Youre literally making fruiting 10x harder than it already is by now having to dial in the environment, rather than have a chamber with the environment already dialed in. And when things do go to shit, you won't have anyone with experience on this kind of chamber who can help you anyway. It's not like people recommend sfc because it's cool. Its been proven to be the most effective time and time again for more than a decade..
Edited by Mad Season (04/21/17 01:15 PM)
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c10h12n2o
serial dilutor



Registered: 01/21/15
Posts: 3,200
Loc: the abyss
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OP, you should restore the images etc that you deleted, for the benefit of people reading who actually want to learn
Deleting OPs pollute the search engines with useless threads,and demonstrate an utter lack of respect for the community and it's rules
We are not your unpaid research assistants, and we couldn't give a shit less about you personally or what you do. All we care about is learning, discussing mush cult, and helping noobs learn the ropes and achieve success.
Our comments and observations and advice was for someone reading who actually wants to learn/discuss/improve, whether that's you or the dozens of lurkers reading is irrelevant to us
The goal is for future people who are researching building and automated chamber will see this thread and the hundreds like it and we'll read and learn the basic principles that make it a bad idea, and look to the discussion and pictures for the specifics of what is wrong. Then they'd go on to use a proven method and become a skilled cultivator
But when you delete your post it makes that impossible and makes the thread worthless to anyone but you (the one person who doesn't care to learn/discuss).
Utter selfishness, this kind of shit is against the rules for exactly these reasons
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C10's Agar Guide + Tips and Tricks | c10's Flow Hood Build Guide
"Partial knowledge is more triumphant than complete knowledge; it takes things to be simpler than they are, and so makes its theory more popular and convincing."
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies"
― Friedrich Nietzsche
Edited by c10h12n2o (04/21/17 02:01 PM)
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