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bodhisatta said:
Didn't know that was a thing lol

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Homesteader said:

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drake89 said:

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Homesteader said:

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drake89 said:
I wouldn't want to hold the barrel at pressure but make sure to get a prv.  I hope you have a cool down space with a lot of hepa filtering once you unload, they took about 12hr to handle and maybe 3 or 4 hours to get below 95F for us.

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Just a bit confused. You mean you wouldn't want to hold the barrel at pressure after the sterilizing time? or do you mean not at all..?
Also, Yes I have a massive lab which is a class 10 clean room with 8' of laminar flow space and UV-C T8s installed in the light fixtures. So I am most certainly equipped for the cooldown. I plan on using standard autoclave gloves similar to what Gr0wer linked above for handling the bags. I will be unloading the system as soon as the drums dip below 1psi so the bags will be 220F.

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i dunno why you have a "massive" lab but yeah definetly helps to have a lot of hepa capacity when cooling down.  like 4x8 ft cabinets is what i'd have if I was trying to keep your capacity of turning the autoclaves over 2x a day.  that and a 24kbtu ac unit somehwere outside of your lab and piped in via hepa filter.

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We have an 8' flow laminar set up sitting on an 8' stainless table. that would be the cooldown zone. Also, I will likely be getting a split A/c in there but It doesn't need to be outside the lab, I'm sure I can mount it safely in the lab. I'll remove the face plate and sanitize the fins inside with ethanol/iso 70% and the UVC bulb. The split ACs recirculate the same air over and over so if the room is nothing other than HEPA filtered Air there should be no issue whatsoever.

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Homesteader said:
Hey man thanks! Definitely helps. It's even simpler inside than I thought. Not sure why some folks think installing a UVC bulb in there is rocket science. I just built an Autoclave..

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I don't think it's the uvc installation that anyone is knocking, rather the risks associated with installing a unit directly in your lab. I've seen a few growers just duct their central hvac through a big hepa and pipe it right into their lab, which is closer to your second idea.
I dont see that being any more cost prohibitive than getting a split and it effectively accomplishes the same goal.
Great build btw

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Homesteader said:
So everyone has been waiting patiently for the build of my double barrel sterilizer. This build was inspired by the one built by Jason from Motown mushrooms in Vermont. Motown build
I've decided to go ahead and start showing the progress instead of waiting for the entire thing to be finished. This post will serve as a log of all the work being done as we do it in real time.
Firstly, These are the plans we drew up


Here is the frame that was welded by my friends in the shop.


The frame my friend is standing in will house the drums and the other frame will hold the electric hot water heater which will serve as our boiler.
We just received the pid, SSD and thermocouple from auberins so wiring it will be done this week. In addition to the SSD we will be using a magnetic relay (contactor) as a fail safe in the event the SSD fails. The Hot water tank is a 40 U.S. Gallon tank with double 3000watt elements which will be wired to both be on when the pid flips the SSD open. So 6000watts of power or 25Amps at 240v. This should take roughly 2hours to bring the tank to a boil based on our calculations. Tomorrow we are visiting a drum fabricator to pick up our drums. Here is a picture of them sent by the manufacturer himself.

SHINNYYY SOO SHINNYYYY!!! These are 16 gauge which is thicker than your average steel drum and they are also the seemless model. Meaning, they are welded from the inside and not press fit or crimped together like most drums. The spec sheet lists these as having a maximum operating pressure of 60psi. However, this is done with water not steam and as we know there is a world of difference between the two. Needless to say, we aren't going to run them at 60psi.. We are planning to run some tests and push 10 but I would be happy with as low as 5psi working pressure.

UPDATE**** April 7th 2017
So the drums are affixed into the frame and we just finished up with the brains of the entire system, the pid control box.


I will include a proper diagram within the next week to explain more of what's happening. To sum up though: we used a SSR 40A from Auberins powered by a SYL2352 (also from auberin) to control the flow of power to our 2x 3000watt elements in the hot water tank. We also wired in a contactor (magnetic relay) as a fail safe in the event the SSR failed. The contactor is triggered by the Alarm1 built in relay on the pid. Additionally, we added 2x RTD sensors with a 3pole DT switch to seamless switch between them - one will be front mounted in the drum and the other in the boiler. By closing a steam supply valve to the drums and switching to the RTD in the boiler we can maintain 10-15psi (depending on preset) in the electric boiler while we allow the drums to cool and remove our substrate. This allows for very very little downtime between back to back runs and conserves a lot of energy by not having to bring 40gallons of water to ~240F from completely room temp.

UPDATE 4/11/2017 Here is the wiring diagram and the working system. Before we finish up we are going to panel the entire thing and insulate it. It took 5hours to get up to full temp from water that was 55F. Also, When I came back to the system nearly 24 hours later it was still 170F in my boiler so if i run 2 consecutive days in a row I can save on heating time. It took 40KwH for the run which would cost ~3$ where we live.

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bodhisatta said:
I'm interested to see you out some of these people's concerns to rest.

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bodhisatta said:
I'm interested to see you out some of these people's concerns to rest.

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That's what im looking forward to most of all bro :p
Right off the top I'll have everyone know the system was tested to 40psi with my compressor and it didn't leak a drop of air.
Also, opening the valve at full pressure is really not as dangerous as people make it sounds. Obviously, we won't be doing it during normal operation but in the test run we did. We finished our first test run at 9:00pm on Monday night. The drums were cool as a cucumber after an hour and when I came back to the system the next day at 5:00Pm tuesday the boiler was 180F still. So get ready for some serious consecutive runs people.

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Gr0wer said:
holy hell man the wiring! red to red, red to red and red to red. Make sure your red goes to the red.

How do you plan on timing the system? IMO you should have got the SWA-24X1 with timer for $10 more or even better the SYL-23X2P 30 step ramp soak model.  I dont see why you have the ALM1 to a contactor, you will never hit that point if you autotuned and have your temp set. And im willing to bet your contactor will fail before your SSR ever will, unless its a amazon "f"amico.  If anything you should have a pressure switch on your alarm.  How are you regulating pressure? Pressure cooker rockers or PRV's?

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bodhisatta said:
Temperature and pressure go hand and hand as long as every last drop of air is removed.

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