This tek is part of bod's cultivation is easy as fuck link listBod's easy AF bucket tek(an adaptation of damion5050's bucket TEK)The original bucket TEK by Damion5050. You will need650g of coir, preferably in a brick form
3 x 650g bricks, try to find nice uniform ones, it's a VERY GOOD idea to weigh them first to make sure they're actually 650g. these things are made with little to no quality control so...
I find these for 6.99 a 3pk at the garden store.
an insulated 5 gallon water dispenser/cooler, or any other insulated container that's about 5 gal in volume.
5+ quarts of boiling water
How it's done
pour a quart+ of boiling water into your insulated water cooler. Put the lid on and shake it up.
this pre-heats the bucket's insulation
*you don't really need to do this and I often don't because I have shit to do*
Dump out the water now you have a preheated cooler.
put your coir brick in the bucket (650 grams)
I actually weigh out 800g off of a big brick and water like so.
1/6 coir by weight 5/6 water by weight 0/6th coffee 0/6 vermiculite
200g coir to 1000g(1L) water
(200g coir/1200g total=1/6th coir 1000g/1200g=5/6th water)
400g coir to 2000g(2L) water
800g coir to 4000g(4L) water
PROtip: multiply your coir weight by 5 to get your water weight. use the metric system and your water weight is your water volume
always check field capacity your coir might not be the same as my coir.
(650g brick into preheated cooler like so, pour boiling water on it)
Start with whatever weight of coir you want to use and multiply it by 5. for 650g of coir that's 3250. which is 3.25L of water.
These numbers are what I use but each person will have a different experience. It's a VERY GOOD idea to check field capacity rather than assume the recipe you follow will translate to your house 100% perfectly.
Edit for 2020 and onward. It's sounding like using 5x coir weight for water is giving many people soupy coir. And I've noticed the same with eco earth brand. Start with 3.5-4 and work your way up until you get things dialed in for your own brands and circumstances
put the lid on
come back in an hour and mix it up(optional)
put the lid on
use it the next day. If you didn't mix the coir while it was hot, that's a-ok. You can mix it once it's cooled down the next day. Remember to check your field capacity. if it's too wet you can add some vermiculite right from the bag, or wring it out as you go.
If it's too dry simply add more water(room temperature tap works fine) keep notes so you can hit it dead on next time.
if you decided to pre-heat the bucket the coir will be hot for nearly a whole day. you can pour it into a tub(that you're going to use to make a tub) so it cools down faster. Or just skip that step and it will be cool the next day.
if you do decide to mix it up after an hour or two it will save you the hassle of breaking a few clumps the next day.
I stirred some up after 90 minutes and the temperature was still 170F
Sometimes you want to do more. You can do two at a time in a bigger cooler
I preheat with 2-3 q of boiling water and then use roughly 8q of boiling water for the two bricks.
after 90m the temperature should still be at 170F
I find it's a good idea to do the mixing after an hour or two with the bigger coir preps like this, you'll have too many clumps the next day and it's a bit of a hassle. After 90m I can do it with a long handled spoon wearing no gloves so don't be a pussy and mix that shit up.
Why it worksCoir or CVG(coir verm gypsum)
DOES NOT require pasteurization, there are no beneficial thermophilic microbes thus there's no reason to pasteurize.
Partial sterilization is 170F for 10 minutes. Of course this is not true sterilization but it's past pasteurization.
Coir works better cooked, you can simply hydrate coir with tap water and use it as a substrate, but mycelium enjoys cooked coir more, hence why I use an insulated bucket.
I find the temperatures in the bucket to be well above 170F over an hour later. This makes the coir come out a nice dark color which is what I look for.
What do you do with it?Bod's monotuband
And video of how to do itField capacityDescribed as the amount of water your substrate will hold before moisture/water will come out on it's own. It's how much water something can hold onto before gravity will cause pooling on the bottom. Generally it's tested by squeezing a handful of substrate and judging dripping that comes off. You want a few drops to a small stream that trickles to a stop quickly.
http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Casing-Layer-PreparationIn the let's grow mushrooms videos by RR you can see at 32 seconds into the video on casing layer preparation the example of field capacity
results
coir + verm, no gypsum used
coir + verm, no gypsum used
coir+verm, no gypsum used
Coir + verm, no gypsum used
Only Coir, (MS genetics)
Only Coir
only coir
I kept these ESS tubs around just to show how hard it is to contaminate coir substrates
Spawned on 1/12/17
First pins 1/24/17
Harvested first flush 2/2/17
Pictured 3/6/17
On the 5/6th flush
53-54 days old. shrunk, covered in spores, torn up, chunks missing, and no mold anywhere
Bad spawn fucks tubs.
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