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the_damn


Registered: 08/26/11
Posts: 383
Loc: Hell
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Lids
#24000853 - 01/11/17 11:12 AM (7 years, 19 days ago) |
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Hey There. Old grower here ... or well I have grown a few tubs in my day, but I am no RogerRabbit or anything. However I have been thinking I would like to get back into it at some point, or I at least refresh my knowledge. Thus here I am. You may see more of me popping up and asking questions in the near future. Thanks in advance for any help.
My post today is regarding spawn jar lids. My old lids are the metal, wide-mouth mason jar lids with two holes drilled in them (silicone injector port & SFD air port). The SFD air port uses about a quarter-sized SFD piece, which is siliconed over a 1/4 inch air hole in the lid. The injector port is just a big blob of silicone obviously.
Question: Are there any better options out there now-a-days for me to use with my wide-mouth quart jars? I feel like these old metal & silicone lids are prone to problems, due to silicone deteriorating or coming loose over time. I tried to inoculate 20 quart jars a while back but lost all of them to bacteria eventually (maybe bad syringe but it was purchased from a most reputable source). Maybe I just need to make new lids and stop bitching, as these have worked plenty for me in the past...
Any uber new lids invented for quart jars recently? Thanks
Edited by the_damn (01/11/17 11:12 AM)
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mushboy
modboy



Registered: 04/24/05
Posts: 32,281
Loc: where?
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those are pretty standard for the people who DIY stuff.
im lazy tho. so i just use a square of post office tyvek and 2 pieces of mp tape. i use to use polypil but i cant stand that stuff

yours are better, and you only make them once right? i suppose the silicon can get weird over many cycles?
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AndyHinton


Registered: 12/05/16
Posts: 434
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These days I buy self-healing injection ports and use half-dollar size filters over 1/2" holes. The filters are attached with super glue silicone. Very clean and professional, costs under $2 per lid.
Update: Silicone is recommended. Super glue gets brittle after one PC run.
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Edited by AndyHinton (02/12/17 02:01 PM)
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the_damn


Registered: 08/26/11
Posts: 383
Loc: Hell
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@AndyHinton -- Do you use the plastic lids, or the standard wide-mouth mason jar (metal) lids? I am wondering if plastic lids + gorilla glue SFD + S.H.I.P. would work well. Also any reason for 1/2 inch over 1/4 inch air hole? Just curious...
Would gorilla glue hold an air-tight seal and last through being pressure cooked a whole lot?
-------------------- I'll be damn...
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Subnet Mask


Registered: 05/08/15
Posts: 903
Loc:
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I don't know about Gorilla glue but I use Red RTV silicone to adhere my SFDs. It's rated for high temperatures.
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wildernessjunkie
Reshitivest


Registered: 06/13/10
Posts: 8,118
Loc: HTTP 404 Not Found
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This is the one I use. Been using the same lids since this tek was written, they hold up extremely well. And theres no glue/silicone to fail over time.
Edit: I guess it would help if I posted the link eh?
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/20406855/fpart/1/vc/1
Edited by wildernessjunkie (01/11/17 02:00 PM)
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AndyHinton


Registered: 12/05/16
Posts: 434
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Quote:
the_damn said: @AndyHinton -- Do you use the plastic lids, or the standard wide-mouth mason jar (metal) lids? I am wondering if plastic lids + gorilla glue SFD + S.H.I.P. would work well. Also any reason for 1/2 inch over 1/4 inch air hole? Just curious...
Would gorilla glue hold an air-tight seal and last through being pressure cooked a whole lot?
I use metal lids because they cost less than plastic. Mistakes cost $0.30 each instead of $1 each.
The larger holes serve two purposes. The first is better gas exchange (not that it really matters). The second is to have a choice of two holes when fitting a SHIP. The clumsier hole gets the filter.
You get a really substantial bonding surface with half-dollar size filters over 1/2" holes.
Update: Silicone is recommended. Super glue gets brittle after one PC run.
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Edited by AndyHinton (02/12/17 02:01 PM)
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