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InvisibleAdden
Sandcastle in the Sun
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Registered: 06/04/03
Posts: 36,548
Loc: Amongst the Dunes
landscaping
    #2396483 - 03/02/04 08:46 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

hey real quick guys

I'm planting a variety of oriental poppies where a bunch of shitty vines and honeysuckle (that travelled 30 feet from a nearby fence) used to be. Asparagus was grown around this area, as well as a nearby compost heap. I'm going to remove what's there and then till - should I remove extra soil in case those annoying vines come back? Or is that good poppy soil.

What's a good oriental poppy pH, they're near pine trees kinda. Would the asparagus effect it

Also,

Desmanthus. Should I make an effort to remove the grass that I'm trying to cover or will it eventually beat the grass? I could easily use the grass in other areas of the yard?

Potting soil, 10 lb bags, 99 cents at my local store. Should I get 25 bags and use that soil.

My soil is also kinda sandy.

..am I going to end up replacing a lot of it?


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Offlinethe man
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Registered: 08/13/99
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Re: landscaping [Re: Adden]
    #2396537 - 03/02/04 09:04 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

try and keep them away from teh pince trees anywhere there is no plants growign and jsut needles, i doubt poppies will grow at all.

sany soil is good for poppies :smile: u should go read mjs article on poppie cultivation at erowid. or www.poppies.org


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InvisibleStarter
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Re: landscaping [Re: Adden]
    #2397644 - 03/03/04 10:36 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

For a start, I wouldn't bust my can parking a garden bed near trees, esp. pines as you'll be forever adding lime to counter act the acidic needles and axing out aggressive roots -- it's just a shit load easier without that sort of competition. Then these vines, how much amazonian nastiness is there? If any of that is English Ivy, slash back and paint the main stumps with neat round up, what you can't do that way, mix detergent to double strength round up and spray them. They need multiple hammerings to die and even then it comes back. Bastard stuff. You virtually need a bobcat in to excavate out the whole damn lot.


But I'll go with what you've got and give you a plan.

When making beds, you use what you have on site and you enrich it, you don't dig it out unless it's rock/shale and in such cases, it's more economical to build up above it.

Mark out your zone with yellow spray paint (same used in construction sites) or a garden hose.

Rake off as much of the pine needles in the zone as you can. Use a metal rake, stockpile the needles. Great as mulch for Azalea/Rhododendron/Gardenia, they love acidic soils. By raking out the needles, then this pH lowering, nitrate robbing, high carbon material won't end up in your profile.

Spray off the grasses/weeds with 'Round Up" herbicide. It breaks down to phosphates in the soils, nothing dangerous about it. Just don't do it on a windy day or you'll ruin desired plants nearby.

If you don't have round up or are against the use of it (beats me why folks are), then you can "solarise" the plot, meaning cover in black plastic and the sun will cook the grasses/weeds underneath and kill them. I'm not a fan of that, as it also kills off shit loads of soil fauna and in that imbalance you get bastard attacks of pythium on seedlings you plant in.

When dead from the herbicide (2 weeks later) mattock it over (yup, the dead weeds/grasses will become part of the organic matter to this soil). Then use a shovel to dig it up one end to the other. Break up the clumps up as you go, just smash with the back side of the shovel. It shouldn't be too tough, you've got sandy soil.

Then wheel barrow in and cover the zone in 4" deep well rotted cow manure and 2 handfuls lime to the m.sq. Fork this in to fork depth, approx a foot. This forking not only blends the materials together, it assists in breaking the profile to a fine till.

The manure will increase organic matter to your sandy soil thereby acting as a water retention additive and at the same time improving crumb structure -- absolutely vital to power plants. The lime will neutralise the acidity of the needles from the pines (what you couldn't rake out).

Dig drainage channels and toss that material up onto sensible sized beds to increase profile height = deeper root zone on the bedding plants. You'll gain a couple more inches. The drainage treches ensure the plant roots in the beds are not in the drink in the wet weather esp. if it pisses down a lot your way.

Mulch in hay to 6" deep, it will settle to 4" deep. You can also lay down sheets of newspaper to 2 to 4 sheets deep, that's optional. It will reduce evaporation and be the food for the diesel-free 24/0 worm plough action. Water down well as the wind will just blow it off if ya don't. The mulch layer will also reduce weed invasion.



Worms power on it and so will the plants. Once you make beds like that, you'll never have to dig 'em again. Just keep adding more hay to feed the worms and they'll dig it with far more efficiency than any soil compacting tractor ever could. What's more they will fertilise your soil profile in Rolls Royce castings which boast no end of cation exchange and increase crumb structure as they go. An investment that will last as long as you. All you need is hay to keep it thumpin'. But parked near trees, esp. pine trees, man I wouldn't.





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Invisiblezeta
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Re: landscaping [Re: Starter]
    #2401053 - 03/04/04 02:52 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Awesome guide Starter  :thumbup: :laugh:


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InvisibleAdden
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Registered: 06/04/03
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Re: landscaping [Re: Starter]
    #2401507 - 03/04/04 07:43 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Thank you kind, sir! :thumbup:


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics >> The Ethnobotanical Garden

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