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Offlineenlightenment
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Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids, drilling holes...)
    #23742568 - 10/16/16 01:30 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

I. Drilling holes

Drilling holes can be a pain in the ass.
sharp-edged holes, rusty holes... common problems.

Drill size:
I like to use a 1/4 inch (~ 6.5 mm) drill for injection ports and GE holes.

How to drill clean holes:

- Get an old scrap of cloth.
- put it between your lid and your metal drill. Push slightly and start to drill.


Voila a clean hole.

It works even better if you wet the fabric first but it is not necessary.
You will see some metal pieces in your scrap of cloth. That's normal and a good sign.
If there are some edges you can use a file to make the hole smooth.



UPDATE 12/03/2016:


Now I drill my holes with this drill:


I don't need fabric anymore.
I drill the top side to 6mm. Turn around the lid and drill from the other side to get rid of the edgy metal.


ALWAYS use a wooden board under your lids when you drill your holes. I have seen grow reports where people wondered about strange orange color developed on the bottom of their PF jars. That was rust. They drilled or poked their holes while the lid was screwed on the jar and filled them with substrate afterwards...



II. Problem with rusty holes:

If you want to use your lids multiple times you may have problems with rust due the moisture inside the jars.
Ask your wife or girlfriend for transparent nail polish. Seal your fresh drilled holes with some nail polish and you won't have problems with rust anymore.

You should try this with only one lid first to make sure the nail polish survives the sterilizing process.

Alternatively you could use heat-proof varnish.






III. DIY injection ports:

I like to make my own injection ports with silicone.
Some people in this community use high heat silicone. I always used normal silicone without any problems. European silicone can take temperatures of 121°C easily. I don't think US silicone would be different (if not tougher *jk* :laugh:)
I like to work with a silicon gun. For newcomers it might be hard to get the right amount of silicon out for the injection ports.


An easy way is to fill a 20cl syringe with silicone to squirt your ports. You want 1cm on top of the hole and 1cm on the other side of the lid.







I change the injection ports after about 10-20 uses.

If you wonder which filter I use for my GE holes it is a 0.22 filter sticker. I ordered a lot of these some years ago. The company I got them from does no longer produce these filter stickers :frown:

IV. DIY filters:

A very cheap and easy way to make your own filter is polyfill.
- Take a small piece of polyfill and roll it between your fingers for some time.
- Put the polyfill 'sausage' in your jar hole and pull it through. It should be packed in tight.

leave about 1cm on top and on bottom of the jar lid and cut the off the leftover polyfill.



Now you have your own cheap and effective polyfill filter.
If you use a polyfill filter I recommend to use also an injection port on the same lid. I don't like the method to poke through the polyfill with a syringe. It seals itself to some point but never as good as silicone does.

Another method is to use synthetic filter disks.
Some shroomery sponsors sell them.
Cut out a piece of the SFD (diameter ~1 inch) and glue it with silicone over your jar hole.


picture by TranscendingLife



picture by TranscendingLife







Edited by enlightenment (03/05/17 02:05 PM)


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Invisibleazur
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: enlightenment]
    #23742591 - 10/16/16 01:38 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

So glad I can finally throw away all my rusty metal lids, as I now have over 200 plastic ones. Boom


--------------------


A cube is NOT a cube.

FALL IN LOVE WITH LC
FOTTSE!!!
ALL NOOBS READ THIS!!!



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InvisiblePastywhyteMDiscord
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: enlightenment]
    #23742604 - 10/16/16 01:41 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

Interesting. I don't use metal lid's but if I ever do I will keep some of those points in mind.

I use plastic lids. They have their own upsides and down like anything else. A few points on plastic lid use.

Rough up any place you plan to use silicone. It makes a big difference in how well it adheres.

Plastic lids may be a little bit loose if you pull the jars out of the PC hot. Do not overtighten them up at this point or they will be hard to get off once cool. Not a big deal for SHIP users but will really ruin your day if you G2G in a SAB.

I don't use SHIP for anything but LC lids. Otherwise it's easy and fast to just crack the lid in the SAB and squirt the LC in at that point.


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Invisibleazur
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: Pastywhyte]
    #23742608 - 10/16/16 01:42 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

I quit using ships too, except for lcs.


--------------------


A cube is NOT a cube.

FALL IN LOVE WITH LC
FOTTSE!!!
ALL NOOBS READ THIS!!!



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Offlineenlightenment
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: azur]
    #23742611 - 10/16/16 01:43 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

I love plastic lids as well. But i did not find a vendor in Germany. I have about 10 jars with plastic lids laying around. Got them from a cosmetic company for free.

There can be problems with silicone on plastic lids. Depends on the material. Roughen it with sand paper helps with sticking.


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Offlineblackout
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: enlightenment]
    #23743383 - 10/16/16 06:07 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

On thin
Quote:

enlightenment said:
I love plastic lids as well. But i did not find a vendor in Germany.



Aldi & Lidi have micowave soup containers with snap on lids which are made from polyprolyene, look for the PP5 stamp on them.

I never heard of the cloth technique for metal lids, but seems sound, found this and will try it.
http://www.giangrandi.ch/mechanics/sheetmetaldrill/sheetmetaldrill.shtml

for thin metal and plastic I usually use drill bits intended for wood. Like these 2 types




They tend to grind/wear through the metal/plastic while normal one risk tearing it up. And always use a wooden support at the back as you said earlier, and go slow, cooling if necessary by leaving it or wiping with a wet cloth.


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: blackout]
    #23743958 - 10/16/16 09:26 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

so I assume this clear nail polish remover does fine in the PC?


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InvisiblePastywhyteMDiscord
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #23743965 - 10/16/16 09:32 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

I'm sure the nail polish will do fine but don't use remover. I don't think that will work quite the same.


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OfflinePsilosopherr
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: Pastywhyte]
    #23743979 - 10/16/16 09:37 PM (7 years, 3 months ago)

ha whoops. mistyped.


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InvisibleliloldmeFacebook
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: Psilosopherr]
    #23744319 - 10/17/16 01:05 AM (7 years, 3 months ago)

I paint rustoleum on the the exposed metal from drilling seems to works well. I love my plastic lids but not for liquid cultures.


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Offlineenlightenment
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Re: Some tips about lids (rusty lids, sharp-edged lids...) [Re: blackout]
    #23744322 - 10/17/16 01:05 AM (7 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

rbalzer said:
so I assume this clear nail polish remover does fine in the PC?




It is recommended to test it on one lid first. Some brands may have different ingredients than others. Some ghetto-pimp-my-car people use nail polish for their brake caliper units.

If nail polish is not available or does not work for you, you can try heat-proof varnish.

Two layers of polish/varnish is better than one.

Quote:

blackout said:
Aldi & Lidi have micowave soup containers with snap on lids which are made from polyprolyene, look for the PP5 stamp on them.





I don't like to use plastic containers for grain but I try it again in a week or so. Don't you have problems with deformation?


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