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PhytoExtractum Shop: Maeng Da Thai Kratom Leaf Powder

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InvisibleScrimshaw
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Registered: 06/27/14
Posts: 643
Installing Wall Timer
    #23622834 - 09/07/16 05:29 PM (7 years, 4 months ago)

I'm trying to install an Intermatic KM2ST-1G Single Gang wall timer to control my garage lights. The lights are outside attached to the garage and the switch is in my back hall.

When I pulled the existing switch off the wall there is a black wire, a white wire, a naked copper wire. The black and white wires connected directly to the switch and were not screwed onto the sides.

I cut these wires, stripped them back and connected as follows: black to black, white to white, red capped, and the copper wire unconnected.





I can hear the timer ticking slightly, but no lights are coming on outside, even in the full on position. Anyone have any luck installing one of these?


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InvisibleScrimshaw
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Re: Installing Wall Timer [Re: Scrimshaw]
    #23626392 - 09/08/16 04:34 PM (7 years, 4 months ago)

Pretty sure I got to the bottom of this. Adding my conclusion if anyone comes across a similar situation.

My switch was set up as a switch loop. The white wire was not a neutral, it was actually the hot wire return for the garage lights. When I connected the red to the white and black to black, the lights lit up. The problem is since I don't have a true neutral in the box, there is no power source to power the switch itself. I ultimately returned the switch and opted for a wireless switch which requires no re-wiring.


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OfflineMileHighLife
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Re: Installing Wall Timer [Re: Scrimshaw]
    #23655152 - 09/18/16 09:52 AM (7 years, 4 months ago)

I've installed a few Intermec timers ... looks like you have a 220v timer and 110v wiring.  220v wiring should be:  black = hot, red = hot, white = neutral, bare copper = ground.  Glad you got a solution figured out.


Edited by MileHighLife (09/18/16 09:54 AM)


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OfflineKenetic
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Re: Installing Wall Timer [Re: MileHighLife]
    #23677553 - 09/25/16 06:17 PM (7 years, 4 months ago)

That's a 120v switch.  The problem is that the neutral in the switch box is actually wired as the switch-leg (load), not a nuetral.  Your actual neutral is located in the j-box that the wires in your wall are coming from. You don't need a nuetral for a switch unless is has a digital interface. 

I would highly suggest hooking the bare copper wire to the green screw on the switch.  This will keep you from getting shocked if there is a short or ground fault, and it will also prevent your switch from getting ruined.

If you need the neutral for the switch you need another wire in the single gang box.  You can do this by changing the romex to 12-3 or 14-3 (two hots and a nuetral (and a ground)).


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Edited by Kenetic (09/25/16 06:24 PM)


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PhytoExtractum Shop: Maeng Da Thai Kratom Leaf Powder


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