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Stranger Registered: 05/27/14 Posts: 218 Last seen: 6 years, 5 months |
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I was searching through threads and teks deciding on how I want to do an extraction using MHRB, and I found this word document that someone posted I'm not going to ask anyone to open a random link, so I'm copy pasting the word document from this thread here: https://www.shroomery.org/forums
You can either look at the word document yourself, or read the text here. DMT EXTRACTION; How and Why An acid-to-base extraction tek by dp3 In this tek, along with detailed and coherent instructions on what to do, I will briefly (or in as much detail necessary) explain why each step is done. Note that some measurements will vary depending on container sizes, etc, and may not need to be exact (advance apologies for those afflicted with OCD). This tek is mainly directed toward those wishing to yield a large amount of DMT from a large amount of MHRB (though Acacia Confusa works just as well, possibly with lesser yield). Total time required: 3-5 days. I. FIRST AND FOREMOST, YOU WILL NEED: 1 Kilogram Mimosa Hostilis root bark, shredded or powdered; (as I use powdered, a first timer would have a much easier time during filtration with shredded bark. However, powdered can often produce a higher yield of DMT) White distilled vinegar or Muriatic Acid (hydrochloric acid. I use vinegar being as it is just as effective, easier to come by, and a hell of a lot safer to handle); Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH, Caustic Soda, Lye); VM&P Naptha (other teks show that they use Zippo™ lighter fluid, Coleman™ camp fuel, or other “name brand” non-polar solvents. This is simply because they are easily found at every chain supermarket or convenience store. Unlike VM&P Naptha, these other solvents have additives such as colors, scents, longevity aids, and other chemicals that will remain in your DMT when the solvent has evaporated. It is highly recommended that one does not smoke or ingest these additives for any reason); Zinc dust (Yes, this is metal. Any questions will be answered along the way) Thus concludes the portion of “ingredients” that will go into the actual extraction process. All of these materials can be found at any combination of grocery store, Lowes® or Home Depot®, and chemical supply stores (a quick Google® search will show numerous shops that sell Zinc dust). You will also need: Large size pickle jar (I think the size I use is 1 gallon. It may be larger, I already removed the labels); Large mason jar ( ½ gallon [2-quart] is preffered. If you only have access to quart-size jars, get two); 2 smaller jars (pasta sauce, salsa, mason, or smaller pickle jars. Lids will be necessary for all jars used.); OPTIONAL: pH meter (as used for soil. Pool strips will be very difficult to read, as our solution will be blood-red); Cheese cloth (or other large, coarse strainer. More than one will probably ne necessary. Coffee filters prove very difficult, if not impossible, to strain powdered bark. As they may work fine for shredded, a cheese cloth will keep all plant material yet the liquid will pass through much faster than with a coffee filter); Large pot (crock-pot size is good, though no heat will be used. You want a wide opening, not so much high volume capacity.); OPTIONAL (for powdered bark): Hand-held fruit juicer (this may be used in filtering the bark from the vinegar.); Turkey baster (if you can find a glass one, definitely do so. I have not been able to find one, and plastic has worked just fine. Be sure to get one with a wire cleaner included! This may be needed if emulsion occurs); Glass or Pyrex baking dish (Pie size dish is sufficient, but one might get a quicker evaporation from a large casserole dish); Scales (capable of weighing as little as 0.1g and as much as 200g I wish I didn’t need to say this, but remember proper protection: Goggles, gloves, & drywall mask. Solvents produce fumes that can irritate your skin, eyes, and sinuses from contact or inhalation. Vinegar will leave your hands smelling pretty gross. And lest I should forget to mention, handling caustic soda can AND WILL burn the skin right off your hands, especially if wet (reference the scene in Fight Club where Tyler burns Jack’s hand. That is Sodium Hydroxide.). II. PRE-EXTRACTION PREP: 1. Place 1 kilogram root bark into the large pickle jar. Mimosa Hostilis, Acacia Confusa (Ayahuasca), and numerous other plants contain DMT. This will be the source of the crystals extracted. 2. Pour vinegar into the jar along with the bark. Between 1/3 and ½ gallon will suffice ( ½ may be a bit excessive, but too much doesn’t necessarily hurt). If you are using Muriatic acid, you will want to dilute with water to a pH between 1 and 3. This is our acidic solution. DMT as it naturally exists in the bark is not water soluble. An acidic solution is required to dissolve the DMT alkaloids and separate it from the plant material. 3. Now put, along with the bark and vinegar, an excess of raw Zinc dust. I usually use 100g per 1000g mimosa bark (1/10 ratio), leaving behind 10-20 grams for later. This is a step not found on other teks, but I have found it almost necessary every time. THE REASON: As bark, especially pre-powdered, sits in packages at warehouses and shops, it begins to oxidize. Without vacuum sealing this cannot be helped. Unfortunately, this causes the DMT molecules to also absorb oxygen, creating DMT-N-Oxide. This form of DMT is still psychoactive and usable for its intended purposes, however it does not fully solidify. The Zinc absorbs oxygen, turning into Zinc oxide. The DMT, having lost its oxygen molecule, is now the desired N,N-DMT. Without Zinc you are likely to be left with a brownish-orange goo, somewhat the consistency of earwax. This is a pain to handle and makes a mess, losing precious DMT on skin, surfaces, etc. 4. Stir and shake this mixture extremely well. Upon looking at the bottom of the jar, you will notice the heavy metal dust has sunken to the bottom almost immediately. Keep shaking this mixture every couple hours. This mixture will need to remain together for 24-72 hours. While 24 may be sufficient, the longer it sits the more DMT is likely to be absorbed into the vinegar. Don’t forget to keep shaking every few hours! It is desired that the Zinc remain as spread out as possible, in hopes of coming into contact with each individual DMT molecule. By the time it is ready for filtration, the powdered bark will mostly have turned to a semi-solid foam and the vinegar will be dark, blood-red. III. FILTRATION: 1. Along the bottom of the large pot, lay the cheese cloth (or two), keeping the corners accessible, outside the pot. The bark will be placed into the cloth, and the acid solution will remain in the pot as the filtration cloth is retrieved. 2. OPTIONAL (for powdered bark): Place the juicer across the pot. Pour off any excess liquid through the juicer and filter. Then scoop bark into the juicer to about halfway full. Squeeze hard (not so hard to break the juicer) and press any vinegar out of the bark. Repeat this process until all foamy bark debris has been squeezed as dry as possible, discarding the depleted bark each time (you may save this to repeat steps 2 and 4, but this does not always yield enough left-behind DMT to make it worthwhile). After pressing all plant material dry, pour whatever is left in the jar into the cloth filter. 2. (No juicer) Pour off any excess liquid through the filter. Using a large spoon, put one scoop of solid bark debris from the jar into the filter. 3. Pull the sides of the filter up, creating a net around what should be a tennis ball-sized lump of bark that made it through the juicer (or per scoop if not using a juicer). Holding the cloth closed to not let any plant matter escape, squeeze this with your hands (use gloves!), pressing out any excess liquid held in the bark. Repeat this step until all bark is out of the jar and squeezed dry. Discard depleted plant material. 4. You should now be left with somewhere around 1/3 gallon of dark red acidic solution, containing very little visible debris. Using a funnel, pour this solution into the ½ gallon mason jar (or equally distribute into two quart-size jars). 5. Add what is left of the zinc (10g-20g) to the clean red solution and mix well. Allow this to react for about two hours. The zinc will sink immediately so make sure to keep mixing it fairly often. If you did not remember to keep some from before, don’t worry too much about it. It is mostly precautionary. IV. ACID-TO-BASE 1. Using a section of paper towel or a coffee filter, cover the top of your scale (make sure you can still see the display). Weigh out 100g of NaOH. GLOVE UP! 2. Using a wooden spoon, gently stir the solution, slowly adding a few grams of the caustic soda. Continue adding NaOH at a consistent rate until the solution begins to change color. Sodium hydroxide is a very strong base. Adding enough to an acidic solution will cause it to become basic. Since N, N-DMT is soluble in acid, the solution now releases the DMT into the solution, unattached from the vinegar (which at this point is not vinegar anymore). This is why it is called Freebase. CAUTION! Adding NaOH to liquid The red solution will turn foggy white or gray. At this point, stop adding soda (you may have used more than 100g. If you used two jars, you’ve probably used half or more of what you weighed out). Keep stirring until it is a consistent color. Still stirring, add a little more soda, until the solution turns dark black. If you see yellow or white debris floating around in the solution, keep stirring until it has fully dissolved. You may see a shiny gold layer on top of the solution, this is little Dimitris floating about! 3. OPTIONAL: Using your pH meter, the solution should read a pH of about 11 or higher. It is now basic, and the N,N-DMT has been released. V. EXTRACTION 1. Using the turkey baster and a glass measuring cup, draw out about 200ml-300ml of naptha. Add this to the jar(s) containing the basic solution (these measurements may vary depending on what type of jars you are using. Be sure the naptha layer is a good 2-inches deep.). 2. Place the lid tightly on the jar. Turn the jar upside down a few times, just quickly enough for the dark and light layers to mix a little. Keep doing this for a minute or so. It shouldn’t take more than 30 seconds for the layers to separate fully. If you’ve read up on DMT extraction, you’ve likely heard of emulsion. Emulsion is when two immiscible substances partially mix. If you strained carefully, you shouldn’t have much of a problem with this. Lots of plant material in your basic solution will cause an unwanted amount of emulsion. If this is the case, use the bristled end of the cleaner that came attached to the turkey baster. Twirl this around in the emulsion to break the bubbles. You will never get it all, so just do this until you feel no more emulsion is being broken up. 3. Using the turkey baster again, releasing the balloon slowly, draw off the naptha layer. Watch carefully and have your eyes at jar level to make sure NO black liquid goes into the baster. Put this naptha in one of the clean smaller jars. Repeat steps 1-3 one or two more times. And don’t worry about getting every bit of the naptha. Once you get close enough, it will become impossible to draw any naptha without also drawing off the black layer (a separation funnel would solve this issue, but is an unnecessary expense). The basic solution no longer contains any DMT, and it has a lot of sodium hydroxide in it, so you do not want any of this in your naptha jars. If you do see a couple spots of it at the bottom of the jars, just pour slowly when you add the naptha to the baking pan, watching to make sure it doesn’t go into the pan also. 4. CHOOSE A METHOD: A) Pour the naptha into the glass or pyrex pan, and sit somewhere at room temperature to evaporate. After evaporated, you should be left with beautiful, snowball crystal formations scattered across a thick layer of crystals. This will take at least 24 hours. Then scrape the dish clean with a razor. Putting a fan in front of the pan will speed this process along by up to 6 times faster, but the crystal formations will not be as intricate and defined. B) Put the jars of naptha (with lids) in the freezer for 6-12 hours. Longer may yield a few more crystals but chances are not too many. This method will freeze the DMT, separating it from the naptha which does not freeze. The naptha can be poured into a clean jar and reused for another extraction, or evaporated to collect the DMT molecules that didn’t separate. Place the jars with the frozen DMT in front of a fan for about an hour to fully dry it of solvent. Then scrape out the dried DMT crystals with a knife or razor. Congratulations! You should now have anywhere from 5-10 grams of pure N,N-DMT! It looks like a good tek to me, pretty simple and easy. Just have a couple questions. Is the zinc dust somehow toxic to the final product or otherwise not be a good idea to actually use? Most things I've seen say to freeze precipitate, but this person also listed an option to simply evaporate the naphtha? Are yields significantly less with this method? My main concern is I'm not sure I have a strong enough freezer. As in, I'm not sure if it gets cold enough to freeze precipitate well enough, and so if I could just evaporate it, I'd be happier. I'd be using this method preferably, but I wanted to get some reassurance it was a good idea first. Edited by Zytan (09/07/16 11:18 AM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/25/16 Posts: 15 Last seen: 6 years, 4 months |
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Looks like a convoluted extraction to me, theres no way in hell it should take 3-5 days.
You can successfully do an ATB extraction and freeze precip all within a 24 hour period, Ive got a nice ATB tek that Ive used with a 100% success rate, lemme look for it real quick :thumb up: Edit: This tek is actually fine as far as the steps for the ATB, Ive never experimented with the zinc step; from what Ive read basically the zinc converts the oxidized dmt into regular dmt - this should help with crystallization being solid. Although I don't really care about having the dmt goo, its just a pain to scrape up/handle if you don't have the right container. -------------------- Everything is Kwa Kwa
Edited by Dr. Gooby (09/07/16 01:35 PM)
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Stranger Registered: 05/27/14 Posts: 218 Last seen: 6 years, 5 months |
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, length of time for the extraction doesn't really bother me. Not in a rush really, but if its just wholly unnecessary for the extraction to take a few days, then I'm open to other suggestions.
Edited by Zytan (09/07/16 01:34 PM)
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Stranger Registered: 08/25/16 Posts: 15 Last seen: 6 years, 4 months |
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I hear you, after reading through the tek it should work fine.
When I first started I read through so many teks I had no idea what was the "right" way, So I just hopped on the DMT nexus and learned the actual chemistry behind the reactions and its really not that hard of chemistry even if you havent taken a Chem course in college. A lot of people's teks have a lot of variable times, taking longer to soak in the acidic and basic solutions etc. Ima pm you some literature
-------------------- Everything is Kwa Kwa
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Stranger Registered: 08/25/16 Posts: 15 Last seen: 6 years, 4 months |
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Yo, Zytan:
I tried to pm you but I realized I can't attach any of the files on my computer :/ Eitherway just go to the dmt-nexus and look through the teks, after reading through the site you'll find all that you need. Id recommend looking through some of the chemistry info as well so you have an understanding of what exactly is going on molecule-wise during each step. The one I used for my first extraction: Cyb's Hybrid ATB "Salt" Tek In my opinion this is the perfect tek for someone new, its easy af just follow directions. Good luck and safe travels my friend! -------------------- Everything is Kwa Kwa
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, length of time for the extraction doesn't really bother me. Not in a rush really, but if its just wholly unnecessary for the extraction to take a few days, then I'm open to other suggestions.
