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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: bodhisatta]
#24802462 - 11/23/17 03:13 PM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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I totally agree.
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Josex
#cheat_code


Registered: 11/13/15
Posts: 8,995
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Looks like this shit could get em cracker dry in like one hour lol. Well that's exaggerating but it looks pretty awesome for a dyi dehydrator.
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: bodhisatta]
#24802467 - 11/23/17 03:16 PM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
bodhisatta said: All I know is coir is reptile bedding and nothing germinates on it for weeks/months
That's the good stuff no doubt, less acidic, and ideal for small animals. The paper I use is also intended to be used as bedding-litter.
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The pH pens are fine as long as you get the calibration. I still find them easier than strips. Either way, there's no way to find out what pH you have unless you have a reader.
I agree the more money you pay the better the quality.

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Edit: found some old data here.
Edited by Ferather (11/23/17 03:34 PM)
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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Josex]
#24802505 - 11/23/17 03:45 PM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
Josex said: Looks like this shit could get em cracker dry in like one hour lol. Well that's exaggerating but it looks pretty awesome for a dyi dehydrator.
My plan had always been to do a 2x2 or 3x3 foot and 6 foot tall wooden box. Use some ceramic light sockets, probably 4, and wire to the bottom so I can screw 4x125w heat lamps inside, pointing up. Could take out bulbs if it gets to hot, or bump x-number of bulbs up to the 250W if to cool. But I then planned to measure it so there was about 10 inches of space above them. I wanted to put a piece of 2x2 sheet metal with holes in a grid in it, like SGFC, probably like 1/2 every 2 inch or something. This would help keep down hot spots I think. Specially on the lower layers of screen. Then a little above, like 6-10 inches, start putting slides for screens that would slide in and out. Probably 4-6 inches in between them. Fill it to the top with a little extra room up at the top and put an exhaust fan in the top. Put holes in the sides at the bottom where the bulbs are so you have air intake.
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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Usually I would get mold infection by now (fingers crossed), the higher pH and leeching should be preventing this. In a previous test with pH 5.5 low nutrient peat, it contaminated in a few weeks, whereas pH 7.5 did not.
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/24801639#24801639

Some variation in growth, but no stalling, medium speed on the tea. Not very aerial, short to air, long growth on the main media.
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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather]
#24803470 - 11/24/17 07:20 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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This has me wondering about a lime pasteurization on wood chips for oysters.
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
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I just popped a post on the lignicolous (Official Woodlovers) thread, with pH modded pine.
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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather]
#24803502 - 11/24/17 07:43 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Was Ph adjustment the only thing done to the wood?
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
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No, it was WL-Tek pine pellets, the pH just prevents infection from air, and removes-decays inhibitory materials. The WL-Tek recipe adds essential macro-micro nutrients, as the wood is "cold", low nutrient, like coir.
For easy practice, you can do pH modified only, and use it as coir for lignicolous, 50:50. You can make small cakes and practice getting the fruiting temperature right.
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P. Stamets has one thing right with adding bran to wood, and that's to add nutrients to a "cold" substrate. However it's not so clever to also add starch-sugar to the wood-other, as it germinates things.
It is already enough that lignicolous mycelium can germinate on the acidic phenol's.
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50:50 is the most easiest method, as clean spawn is used, and settings take place. However by means of pH, is not the most effective way to feed mycelium.
I provide only options, I suggest learning to make clean spawn.
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After 50:50 (dry-to-dry), you can practice carbon free additives. This will allow you to use less spawn, and gain efficiency.
Experimentation and understanding is required.
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Alternatively use the products mentioned in my WL-Tek. I am not bias, use whatever in replacement.
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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather] 2
#24803532 - 11/24/17 08:08 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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LOL you make me feel like a fucking moron. Some of this shit blows my mind and understanding.
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
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I learned to "carbon control" and make "nutritional" substrates.

Here is the basics:
Lignicolous organisms, laccase: phenol's = sugar alternative (converted), usually acidic, usually inhibitory. Other organisms: require added glucose-other, such as starch or sugar, starch is pH dependent.
Contamination will follow suit depending on the available carbon source and pH. Most mycelium will utilize cellulose, which is composed of glucose.
Cellulose needs trace starter carbon for germination.
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Germination settings and materials are not required when using clean spawn.
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Munchauzen


Registered: 06/22/11
Posts: 14,342
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather]
#24803669 - 11/24/17 09:27 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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does it out perform traditional grain and substrate?
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Munchauzen]
#24803672 - 11/24/17 09:31 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Good question.
I get standard indoor yield for oysters, at 1.2% nitrogen. Colonization speed 2-3 weeks @ 10% spawn.
1.2%, roughly 40:1, is balanced.
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent


Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,889
Loc: Milky way
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather]
#24803676 - 11/24/17 09:33 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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You grew oysters indoors before? I think ive only seen the signature picture oysters
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: bodhisatta]
#24803693 - 11/24/17 09:46 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Quote:
bodhisatta said: You grew oysters indoors before? I think ive only seen the signature picture oysters
Yes, it produced 637g from 600g, however the second flush was outdoors. This was a clone, all of the fruits are growing from one single base.
Medium O2, so some stretching, also needed better light.

No added starch or sugar, just nutrients.
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bodhisatta 
Smurf real estate agent


Registered: 04/30/13
Posts: 61,889
Loc: Milky way
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather] 1
#24803700 - 11/24/17 09:49 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Still not bad for indoors and off a horizontal substrate
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TheMadHatter420
Trusted Farmer


Registered: 10/12/16
Posts: 12,941
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: bodhisatta] 1
#24803704 - 11/24/17 09:52 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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They do look cool with the more cup shape to them, reminds me of flowers.
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
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Thank you, it's an old project that needed better settings. As mentioned I focus more on science and growth. I'm not here to make arguments or push out methods, I am not bias, just wanted an easy grow.
I sill suggest filters and being aseptic (SAB, flowhood), even with WL-Tek. Would be bad of me to advise lazy practice, but it can be done.
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van hatton
Still a noob



Registered: 11/23/14
Posts: 5,617
Loc: Michigan
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: Ferather] 1
#24803861 - 11/24/17 10:56 AM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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While I understand about ~60% of what you say I still enjoy your posts. always something to look up
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Fun part is figuring out what works best for you
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Ferather
Mycological



Registered: 03/19/15
Posts: 6,325
Loc: United Kingdom
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
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Re: Cultivation General Discussion [Re: van hatton]
#24804018 - 11/24/17 12:10 PM (6 years, 2 months ago) |
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Sorry, I have that effect at times, feel free to ask any questions, I don't mind.
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The cubensis to WL-Tek @ 1.2% nitrogen + compost for pH (mild acidity, pH 6.0-6.5). Mild acidity has no real time effect, additionally there is no mold-other.
Trace sugar-other is required for ample cellulase production. I have sugar dropped my spore peg to activate it.
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If the added sugar and cellulose decay is enough, the cubensis should continue at the current pH. Otherwise the cubensis will need trace sugar-other within the media for good production.
I may also need to drop the pH further, however below 6.0, mold can germinate.
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Lignicolous oyster mycelium:
The T-Gel [Recipe A] as mentioned before is working as intended, no bacteria or mold (pH 6.0). However in terms of usable carbon is like 1g of ME to 100g water, it's quite weak.
After 1 week it has grown only 10mm out, very slow, and visibly weak.
Both good and bad, Good: more clean, Bad: very slow.
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You can try adding a soluble carbon source. There is enough nutrients already.
Work aseptically.
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