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Tenderbranson
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Registered: 05/20/16
Posts: 8
Last seen: 7 years, 6 months
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Browning trays
#23428100 - 07/10/16 12:12 AM (7 years, 6 months ago) |
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I recently harvested a successful pf tek. I decided to bulk two of my PE cakes in pre-pasturized horse manure. They colonized fast and looked amazing so I introduced them to fruiting conditions. I've had a little trouble with keeping a stable RH, using perlite and a shotgun chamber with an ultrasonic humidifier ran to it. I assumed misting and fanning wouldn't be necessary. One tray was totally covered with healthy myc on the top while the other was showing signs of white popping up so I assumed it was time. The one with less myc on top began to turn brown where ever there was white. The heavily whitened tray began producing brown liquid in spots, quite a lot actually. From the shrinkage in the tray I can see continued healthy myc growth and they still smell right. My next move was to rinse them off, flip them and case them. I decided not to case initially which was probably a mistake. Anyway, I'm pretty confident that these are still viable based on smell but I'd really like to know what's going on. There are no pins that I can see, but it's only been about 5 days. Either way the surface does not look healthy. Any advice would be much appreciated and I can post photos after work.
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Tenderbranson
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Mushiez


Registered: 04/28/14
Posts: 1,057
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The tray to the top of the pic is very dry and needs to be dunked no more than 6 hrs
Dunk both blocks in separate containers to avoid cross contamination, if any contams present
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Tenderbranson
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Re: Browning trays [Re: Mushiez]
#23428756 - 07/10/16 09:09 AM (7 years, 6 months ago) |
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Thanks man. I was pretty worried when they turned quick.
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Tenderbranson
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Registered: 05/20/16
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Last seen: 7 years, 6 months
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So, upon inspection of the bottom layer of those trays I saw circular rust colored spots. I picked them out and coated with verm. Do you think the myc can bounce back or do I toss it?
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Mushiez


Registered: 04/28/14
Posts: 1,057
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Quote:
Tenderbranson said: So, upon inspection of the bottom layer of those trays I saw circular rust colored spots. I picked them out and coated with verm. Do you think the myc can bounce back or do I toss it?
Myc can bounce back. when fully colonized on a sub or media it has its own immune system in the hyphal network. The myc's immune system isnt perfect however, and is susceptible to fungi-eating molds like trichoderma, penicilium, asperigilus, etc.
Have faith in the fungus and it will grow with good internal sub moisture
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Tenderbranson
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Registered: 05/20/16
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Last seen: 7 years, 6 months
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Re: Browning trays [Re: Mushiez]
#23438696 - 07/13/16 06:34 PM (7 years, 6 months ago) |
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Patience is definitely key. They're pinning somewhat nicely off the sides unfortunately. Thanks for the input and putting up with my ignorance lol.
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Mushiez


Registered: 04/28/14
Posts: 1,057
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Cheers brother, let us know how it goes, sounds like they are liking the dunks
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Tenderbranson
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Re: Browning trays [Re: Mushiez]
#23443781 - 07/15/16 12:11 PM (7 years, 6 months ago) |
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Just a few days later and this. Thank you doctor Frankenstein. It's very uneven but I'm pretty new to this.
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Pastywhyte
Say hello to my little friend



Registered: 09/15/12
Posts: 37,810
Loc: Canada
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Those are looking very dry still. If you want to fruit trays in a SGFC you need to ensure that they are elevated a but off the perlite and that there is still lots of exposed perlite. Otherwise you block all the humid air from coming up into the chamber and everything dries out. I would do one of those to a chamber if I was fruiting that.
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Mushiez


Registered: 04/28/14
Posts: 1,057
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Excellent advice from pasty. The perlite on the bottom is covered by the foil. If you own some quart jars those blocks would be happy sitting on them, allowing the perlite underneath to give rising humidity
here's an example photo

You can raise them up on one quart jar, two half pints or pints, two quart jars, any thing as long as the block does not split or break under its weight
Mist generously and you'll have a nice harvest. If they get light again you can redunk. Glad to see some fruits 
Cheers
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Tenderbranson
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Re: Browning trays [Re: Mushiez]
#23445813 - 07/16/16 02:38 AM (7 years, 6 months ago) |
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I put holes throughout the foil but I see what you mean. I dusted them with verm and my humidity gauge is a pretty constant 99%. The tub itself with no added humidification is leaving drops of water all along the sides of the tub. Idk what the deal is but my perlite didnt work for any tub I've tried it with. I wet it, set it, and the next day the whole room is covered in dew and then I lose humidity. I'm curious though as to why the surface isn't fruiting. It's fruiting very quickly all along the sides.
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Tenderbranson
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Registered: 05/20/16
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Last seen: 7 years, 6 months
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Current explosion in growth. Maybe due to a lack of nutrients/water content like you say but it looks awfully wet in there.

Edited by Tenderbranson (07/16/16 08:39 AM)
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Mushiez


Registered: 04/28/14
Posts: 1,057
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Lookin real good
I wouldnt worry about the dryness of the block yet, keep misting those areas
Let it fruit naturally in its own way as you have in the photos and when the block gets light again dunk like 8 hrs and the water will force in and rehydrate the dry parts and may fruit from there
Often times with flushes, the sub will fruit in one part and not in others for the first flush, and in the second or later flushes will fruit where it hadn't previously.
To increase the chances of it pinning where you want it to, generous misting helps a lot
If the coco gets too dry, the hyphal knots, which are the precursors to primordia/pins, will dry up and abort before pin formation
If it's dry to the touch, misting the area will improve your chances of new pins from the hyph knots
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