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Mateo
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Sometimes just plain houseplant soil from the local store work just fine. I use it too but I have started water with little lower PH water to see if it have some good results.
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mrmazdarx9
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26056946 - 06/17/19 04:24 AM (4 years, 7 months ago) |
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It should mate makes it easier for them to take up the nutes. I used to use ph6-7 when i first started growing coca, then i dropped my feed close to ph5 and they grew like nobody's business and the colour of leaf became so limey green.
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Mateo
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They write Novo´s should have higher PH than the E.Coca variety but still under 7, maybe 6 or so. For E.Coca around 5 would be very good if one should believe whats written, even down to 4.5 they can handle. I wonder how the Truxillence likes really low PH. Since they are a Novogratinese variant that thrives in more dry regions maybe one should not go as low as E.Coca´s preferred 4.5-5.5 PH. I PH down my water to 5.5-6 something now but i just started so it´s too early to see any results. And i change a lot of things now so any results would be hard to judge why that is.
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Poison Drink


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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo] 1
#26079580 - 06/28/19 04:55 PM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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My E. novogranatense plants are recovering from the pyrethrum applications and new leaves are gradually becoming greener again. It was still dropping the heavily chlorotic leaves so yesterday I picked a bunch of them off. That's why the plants look a bit shabby. The two oldest E. novogranatense plants are flowering at the moment though.
I steeped some freshly harvested worm castings in dechlorinated and acidified (± pH 5-6) tap water for an hour or two, occasionally stirring. Afterwards I filtered the worm castings out and bottom watered the Erythroxylum plants with this 'vermicompost tea'. I used to top dress the pots with worm castings, but this would get muddy when watering it in and would clump together forming a hard top layer. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I'm interested to see if the plants will respond positively to this new method.
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mrmazdarx9
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Pyrethum yellow your leaves too i made that mistake after reading itll be fine and lost 2 plants and a shit tonne of leaves.
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Mateo
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I wonder if all pyretum concentrates are the same, it seems they are not or it´s the concentration that is different. The one i used was only 5ml per Liter water and didn´t make the leaves sticky. Well, maybe very little sticky but hardly anything at all. And i did get a little more yellowing but not very much. The mites had already made the leaves a bit yellow before i applied the pyretum spraying.
I think that a weak soap water mix and spray with this is much better and can be applied several times without it seem to hurt the plants. It has also triggered formation of new leaves, branches and a flower, but it might just be the increased humidity.
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Silver_Peaks
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26094677 - 07/07/19 01:07 PM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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Hi all, I'm just starting some E. novo and E. coca seeds this week, so I don't have a whole lot to contribute. I was just wondering about your experiences harvesting. Do you generally harvest primarily from the lower branches/leaves, or do you harvest from all over the plant? I've read that, while harvesting leaves is necessary to encourage growth and branching, you shouldn't harvest any more than 25% of leaves at one time, but I wasn't sure where on the plant those leaves should be harvested from. Cheers!
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mrmazdarx9
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I just pull from anywhere. Youll find every now and thenall the leaves will fall off anyway leaving you with a dead looking twig but it grows back if you keep looking after it.
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Mateo
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If you pick a lot leaves from an Erythroxylum plant it triggers an growth boost and very often trigger a flowering. It will start replacing the lost leaves in a week and it often includes growing a new branch. I don´t think one should pick all leaves but i have picked about half of them with no bad effects. Also I would not pick any leaves if the plant seem unhealthy or have bug problems.
Im not sure all coca plants drop all their leaves every now and then. My E.coca have very rarely dropped all it´s leaves and never in a periodical manner. When i had spidermite problems it dropped many leaves. My novos don´t drop all their leaves either unless they have some bug problems. I do know cocas can drop all leaves but i think it´s a result of changed growing parameters and they are quite sensitive to this. I think my cocas don´t drop their leaves because i grow them inside all year and they never experience any bigger change in temp, humidity, light levels and such.
I have put a E.Novo outside in the greenhouse and it looks quite bad, like it could drop all leaves any second now. It was quite a chock to the plant to be put in the greenhouse compared to it´s stable inside growing conditions.
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mrmazdarx9
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26096324 - 07/08/19 03:13 PM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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My E.coca does it every year sometimes twice, never been outside ever in its life. Both my plants do it within a week or two of each other. Gettingon to 5 years oldnow.
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Mateo
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Don´t you move the plants outside in spring and inside in autumn? And isn´t the leafdrop happening a bit after this change of environment?
Or you grow them inside all the time, all year round as i do? If so, then my theory seems to be totally wrong.
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mrmazdarx9
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26097301 - 07/09/19 12:59 AM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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Nope never, always indoors first 3 years grow tent under cfls, 1.5 years on window ledge. Doesnt seem to make a difference whether grow tent or window ledge it drops leaves early in the year and some times autumn time.
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Mateo
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How strange mine don´t drop their leaves like that. I try think of a reason they differ but i can´t find any.
Do the leaves turn yellow before falling or they just drop looking green and healthy?
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jellyfish


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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26097543 - 07/09/19 06:28 AM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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Just started some E. Novo seeds. Got them in 50:50 peat moss and verm. Brought back memories of making cubensis casings back in the day. They are in a tray on a heat mat with a humidity cover over them loosely so that air exchange still happens. I don't have very high hopes as the most difficult species I have grown from seed is peyote and these sound a lot more difficult.
We'll see what happens
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Mateo
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Don´t be so negative. They will sprout and make nice plants for you, im sure. Its not very hard to get these to sprout. It can be little difficult to get the tiny seedlings to grow to bigger plants if you cant provide a humid environment about 20-28 degrees C. I sometimes use 2 clear plastic tubs and put one ontop of the other and then a CFL over the tubs. I spray with watersprayer inside the tubs every day or every few days. The tubs keep the moisture really well even there is some gaps. They grow really well when in the tubs. For me the harder part comes when trying to aclimatize them to lower humidity.
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mrmazdarx9
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26098465 - 07/09/19 03:31 PM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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Sweet you found some then jelly, They grow pretty easily, its the keeping them alive in the first year or so that is a bitch. As long as you pay attention to them they will be fine. As for humidity im not sure mine spent the first 2or so years in a grow tent under cfls, ive never used a humidity dome though ive had issues with seedlings getting too damp and collapsing under their own weight, they have always been fine without for me. Unless its really cold i doubt youd need the heat mat reminds me of the old mushroom grow kit scam where you buy a heat mat and bubble stone and air pump for a pf cake.
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Edited by mrmazdarx9 (07/09/19 03:39 PM)
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mrmazdarx9
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Re: Coca growers [Re: Mateo]
#26098471 - 07/09/19 03:34 PM (4 years, 6 months ago) |
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Quote:
Mateo said: How strange mine don´t drop their leaves like that. I try think of a reason they differ but i can´t find any.
Do the leaves turn yellow before falling or they just drop looking green and healthy?
Some drop off yellow some nice green ones drop off i dont change anything, feeding is always the same temps airflow etc always same. Only thing that changes is the light cycle due to seasons changing.
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Poison Drink


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Some E. coca seedlings have germinated a couple of weeks ago. I remove the wet spaghnum moss immediately after the cotyledons have pushed off the seed coat, and incrementally lower their humidity by making a hole larger in the plastic humidity dome. I do this over the course of a few days.

And the sole survivor of last year's sowing, a E. novogranatense plant. I lost all but one seedling due to fungus gnats.
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mrmazdarx9
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Ive only ever grown in coco coir and some perlite as im a bit clumsy and over water, the coir makes that not a problem which is good as coca hate over watering.
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jellyfish


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Quote:
mrmazdarx9 said: Sweet you found some then jelly, They grow pretty easily, its the keeping them alive in the first year or so that is a bitch. As long as you pay attention to them they will be fine. As for humidity im not sure mine spent the first 2or so years in a grow tent under cfls, ive never used a humidity dome though ive had issues with seedlings getting too damp and collapsing under their own weight, they have always been fine without for me. Unless its really cold i doubt youd need the heat mat reminds me of the old mushroom grow kit scam where you buy a heat mat and bubble stone and air pump for a pf cake.
Yea I think you're right. I like to use a heat mat for cacti seeds but just like with mushrooms, we went from thinking the myc needed to be in the dark, needed a casing, needed to be incubated etc. etc. and bullshit kits were sold (I always preferred trying things myself). It's not cold in here it's room temp and I'm afraid the mat will encourage mould or dry the media out too quick. I will turn it off.
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