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InvisibleautomanM
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musical instrument repair column
    #2270692 - 01/25/04 06:30 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i started this column on a shroomery step-child's site, but i guess i'll start it here too.

in real life, i repair stringed instruments. i'd like to keep this thread going as a resource for those that cant afford to have their instruments worked on by professional luthiers. if you have a question, please post it and i will be happy to help. i will check this thread daily.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineJacquesCousteau
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271075 - 01/25/04 10:32 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

BEST. AVATAR. EVER.


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OfflineBlastrid
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271438 - 01/25/04 01:39 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

sweet, this will be helpful I think...
I may/may not be making some huge changes with my Epi Les Paul soon...

Good to know there's an expert around myah


--------------------
Blas'?trid (bl?s tr?d)
    n.  3rd generation derivitave of a combination of 'bastard' and 'blasted'.  Used as both an insult or an expletive.
    ex.  Blastrid!

Stereopattern  <--My music.


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271547 - 01/25/04 02:26 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Okay, I have a question, regarding my Ibanez EDB605 bass guitar, Sirius:


Anyways, anytime I hit the ninth fret on any string, it causes the E and B strings to ring out (only the B string, of course, on the E string... I'm not sure what is causing this.

Have any ideas? Tusen takk! :laugh:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2273026 - 01/26/04 12:02 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

thats a good question that most people never ask. everything on the planet vibrates. woods, in general have many frequency points that balance out each other. the bass you have doesnt actually have a wood body. it is made from luthite, which is kinda like a resin that is poured into molds. the good news is: it is possible to change that frequency. the bad news: it involves cutting a piece off the body which i'm sure you dont want to do. the best way to limit it is to put a very thin piece of rubber under each saddle so that it doesnt touch the bridge. be sure to measure the thickness of the rubber and adjust the screws down the same amount to maintain the string heighth to which you are accustomed.

my main question is: does it do it unplugged or just when amped?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2273697 - 01/26/04 05:23 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i have a an Alhambra nylon string guitar and about 9 months ago i had it sitting under a jacket in my back seat, my friend got in the car and sat on the jacket not knowing the guitar was under it witch gave it a short crack on the bottom of the body. after some time has passed the crack has gotten longer and now the wood around the neck is starting to crack too. the bodys made out of teakwood. Any reccomedations on how i could go about stopping the cracking? The cracking is making me sad.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2273711 - 01/26/04 05:31 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

bottom back, bottom side, or bottom front? is it stained a dark color or is it natural? does it have a laquer finish or is it oil?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2273793 - 01/26/04 06:28 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

im guessing laquer, its staind dark, the crack is at the bottom going up the body and there is one on the side next to the neck.i was away from the guitar and left it at my dads house and it looks like someone kept winding the strings till they broke and the crack grew like 2 inches.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2274857 - 01/26/04 04:06 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

cracks in an acoustic body are odd beasts. if you havent ever worked with woods, i dont recommend trying it yourself. i would recommend you take it to a professional.

that said, this is the process on how to fix minor cracks that arent in the soundboard of an acoustic guitar. take the strings off the guitar. you will need to get luthiers magnets and long necked clamps. you will also need wax paper and a good wood glue. NEVER USE EPOXY TO WORK ON GUITARS UNLESS YOU ARE A PROFESSIONAL LUTHIER.... IT CANT BE UNDONE WITHOUT LOSING WOOD!!!

first, lets deal with the crack on the side of the body next to the neck. if the crack can be closed by hand, cut a thin cleat (maple works good for this) that is the width of the crack plus 1". now do a test run. put the cleat on the inside of the guitar and cover the magnets with wax paper. put the clamp perpendicular to the crack at points on the body that will cause the crack to close. check to see if it did close. place the cleat inside the body over the crack and hold with the magnet. put the other magnet on the outside at the same place and watch them grab. since you covered them with wax paper, you can slide the outside magnet around without scratching the finish. also, wood glue doesnt stick to wax paper. slid the magnet to the side to catch a glimpse of the crack, but with most of the crack still covered with the magnet. if is closed with the pressure of the magnets and the clamp, you are ready to do your glue up. get a damp rag. force a tiny amount of glue into the crack and wipe off the excess with the damp rag. lightly apply pressure to the cross clamp so that it just gives enough pressure to close the crack. now, apply wood glue to the cleat and use a popsicle stick or toungue depressor to smooth it thin and even. go ahead and lay the wax paper wrapped magnet in the instrument. push the cleat into place and cover with the magnet. make sure all the glue that was pushed through to the outside is wiped off and place the other wax papered magnet on the outside. if you feel that the crack has overlapped, back off the pressure of the clamp, but if you can still stick a tooth pick into the crack apply more pressure to the clamp. basically, the clamp will be your final adjusting tool. you will have 15 minutes from the time you first apply the glue to the crack to do anything you want. after that, the wood glue becomes unworkable.

now the easy part... the back crack. since backs are so much thicker than sides, you wont need the cleat. you should be able to get it back together with clamps alone. if not, the magnets and clamps will get the job done together.

remember, always use a felt covered wood block under your clamp points. if you cant get the crack to close on your dry run OR you dont fully understand any part of this OR you just dont feel comfortable doing this... it is better to either take your instrument to a trained luthier or send it back to the factory.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2275290 - 01/26/04 06:43 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

This isnt so much repair as it is a finishing question

Ive got a guitar that i got signed with Sharpee permanent marker, but i want to get a finish over it to protect it.

I know that most finishes will in fact, dissolve the ink...so do you know of a finish type that will not do that?

Ive asked around but i get no responses.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
-George Gissing

"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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OfflinegeokillsA
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2275317 - 01/26/04 06:51 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Petrucci, Vai, Satriani... wooo00t  no disolve.  No Disolve  :shiftyeyes: :biggrin:


--------------------

--------------------
··∙   long live the shroomery  ∙··
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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2275508 - 01/26/04 07:59 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i would just cover it with thin, clear, self-adhesive pickguard material that you can cut into any cool shape you like.

laquer will disolve it if applied over it.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2275545 - 01/26/04 08:16 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Thanks for the info. After seeing that i know i cant fix it myself but at least when i take it to a professional ill know what things hes gonna need so i can get them before hand and hopefully save some time and money.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2276298 - 01/27/04 01:34 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

dont worry about purchasing that stuff beforehand. if he doesnt have all the tools he needs, take it to someone else. he obviously hasnt done that kind of work before.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276349 - 01/27/04 01:58 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

hmm

Well that is a good idea, but is there any actual laquer coat i could get on it that wouldnt dissolve it? The pickguard clearcoat seems like something that would rub off.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
-George Gissing

"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2276445 - 01/27/04 03:07 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

it is actually pickguard material, but it's thinner and clear. it works great and wont come off.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276466 - 01/27/04 03:13 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

DO string instruments include pianos? I have been havin some problems with my upright lately.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2276476 - 01/27/04 03:16 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

sure. i have rebuilt and refinished many an upright piano.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276585 - 01/27/04 04:22 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

automan said:
the best way to limit it is to put a very thin piece of rubber under each saddle so that it doesnt touch the bridge. be sure to measure the thickness of the rubber and adjust the screws down the same amount to maintain the string heighth to which you are accustomed.

my main question is: does it do it unplugged or just when amped?




Yeah, cutting the guitar isn't an option. With international shipping and the high Norwegian taxes, I played almost $300 more for it... I don't wanna hack it up. hehe

It seems to do it while unplugged as well. At first I thought it was just the octave causing it to ring out, but I've done the octave of the low strings in other positions, like on the 14th fret of the string below, and it doesn't cause anything to ring out at all. And it is only the 9th fret that is doing this.

My guess was pretty on, then, because I figured it was ringing through the guitar and causing it, and I was thinking about sticking some pieces of like matchbook paper underneath the saddles or something. Rubber would definitely work better, though. :lol:

Now I just need to find some rubber to suit the purpose... I'm not sure how I'll manage that one.  :smirk: Unless........  :grin:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2276614 - 01/27/04 04:46 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

go to a junkyard and get a floor mat out of a car made before 1973. that should be enough rubber to last you a long time. just use the thinnest parts. it diesnt take much to dampen the vibration to the bridge.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276664 - 01/27/04 05:17 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Hey, man, by the way, tusen takk for helping me out! I was considering just taking it in so that they could also get everything properly aligned and everything.. the neck had been warped from shipping, I guess, and I had to do some work on the bridge to straighten it out, and then I had to do some work moving the strings because the notes on the frets weren't on pitch.. but it should be straightened out. :wink:

Tusen takk! :laugh:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2276690 - 01/27/04 05:37 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

dont take it in to be tweeked. that is the simplest thing you can learn to do. neck angle, intonation, and string heighth are the simplest things to adjust.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2277548 - 01/27/04 02:15 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Hey automan, thanks in advance for being so kind as to help us out with our instruments whether or not you know the answer, I appreciate the curtiousy. So a single key (the C2 Bflat) doent play quite right. The key reacts normally when I strike it but for some reason the hammer isnt hittin the string or something because the note just doesnt play. If I stop what Im playing and continue to strike the key a few times, It will finally kick in and act normally for a few seconds. But then, If I dont continue to strike it, the key acts up again. I looked inside the paino and the hammer is moving normally and all, I just cant seeem to find out what the problem is?


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2277802 - 01/27/04 04:02 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

if you take the front off and manually strike the strings with the hammer, does it sound?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2286203 - 01/30/04 04:27 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Yes it does, I am suspecting that maybe for some reason the hammer might not be going far eneouph to hit the strings when it is struck. But then why would it kick in after I continue to strike it?


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2286324 - 01/30/04 05:51 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

sounds like either the hammer needs to be recovered, or the lever mechanism is off center. both are pretty straight forward fixes.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2286328 - 01/30/04 05:59 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Ja, I definitely agree, it is just that sometimes in my lazier moments I consider it.. I've been doing a lot of fucking work on that one to straighten out the neck, and then there is the fretless I got, and god knows what I HAVEN'T done to that...

There is still a situation that needs to be fixed on the Ibanez, and I'll come back here later and explain it in detail, 'cause I don't really have time right now.. but thanks for offering your expertise in this area! :grin:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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Invisibleoneducktwoducks
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Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: automan]
    #2286525 - 01/30/04 09:46 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Post deleted by oneducktwoducks

Reason for deletion: .


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2287203 - 01/30/04 03:22 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

merl, no prob. mix 1/2 laquer with1/2 laquer thinner, this will be your base coat. spray 2 even coats making sure that they are thin enough not to run. let it dry for 48 hours. the wood will have absorbed some of the first coat, but the second coat becomes the foundation on which the rest of the finish will stand. when spraying, allow 1 hour between coats. after it has cured for 48 hours, spray 2 coats of you colored laquer. let it cured for 48 hours. now, spray 4 coats of clear laquer and let it cured for 48 hours. now use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and a wood block so smooth out the rough spots on the laquer. be sure to clean the sanded finish with naptha to removed any sanding paper residue. now, spray your final 3 topcoats and let it cure for 5 days. again, sand with 400 grit wet/dry to get out rough spots, then move to 600 grit to remove the 400 grit marks. always sand a finish with wet/dry sandpaper that has been soaked in water for 30 minutes first. after it is totally smooth, buff the shine back into it.

notes: be sure, when you are sanding between stages, to do so very lightly. you only want to make it even. if you think you are going to sand through to the color coat, stop sanding. just be sure to spray an extra thick coat the next time you spray. that way you have more room to sand rough spots. for all your finishing needs, stew-mac has tons of cool stuff: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies.html


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisibleoneducktwoducks
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2292591 - 02/01/04 10:49 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Okay, I have another question. Today I took apart the guitar I am going to paint (a Squier Bullet; that's why I'm painting it :smile:) and there was a wire running from the volume control to the bridge. It wasn't soldered to the bridge or anything, it just ran through the guitar, up to where the bride is, and the bridge is screwed on so that it covers the ends of the wires. If you don't understand that, let me know and I'll try to describe it better. My question is: Does that wire actually do anything? Does the wires' contact with the bridge have some control over the volume? It doesn't make any sense to me, so I was thinking that I could just take the entire wire out.

Edit: Is it the ground wire?


Edited by MMerletto (02/01/04 11:15 PM)


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2292855 - 02/02/04 01:21 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i think thats the ground wire mmerletto, they normally ground to the bridge.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
-George Gissing

"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2293648 - 02/02/04 10:47 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i have this no name super genero electric. the guy who had it before dicked the wiring up pretty good. the volume and tone controls were completely useless, the pickup selsctor was scratchy and only worked on half of it. the selector switch finally went out and i decided to rewire the thing. i plan to replace the selector, both control pots, and possibly all three pickups. considering that i have no experience with internal electric guitar wiring and that the existing wiring is obviously faulty, i would greatly appreciate a simple point to point wiring digram. any tips such as proper grounding or shielding would also be very appreciated.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2295161 - 02/02/04 09:20 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

its the ground wire, merl.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: debianlinux]
    #2295166 - 02/02/04 09:22 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

debian, i need to know if they are all single coil or if some are hum-buckers. also, are they active (do they take a 9 volt battery?)


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2296556 - 02/03/04 08:36 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

not active, single coil. like i said, el cheapo.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: debianlinux]
    #2297262 - 02/03/04 02:23 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Here is a strat wiring diagram in pdf format. hit me back up if you need help with them.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2402553 - 03/04/04 02:12 PM (17 years, 4 days ago)

I've got a bass with a luthite body, and regrettably, one of the "horns" has snapped off... Is there any kind of adhesive I can use to stick it back on? (Yes, I *know* it won't look too great..) Or is it a lost cause?

Thanks

Jake :frown:


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: jake]
    #2402624 - 03/04/04 02:36 PM (17 years, 4 days ago)

Anyone know how to tune bongos? I bought some bongos, but I don't know how to tune them. I read some guides, but they just confused me. They basically said to tune in a circle, going around the pegs, tightening them an even amount at a time, until you get to the "sweet spot". But the problem is, I have no idea where the sweet spot is because I've never actually witnessed someone doing it.

They're fun out of tune too, though.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: jake]
    #2405501 - 03/05/04 03:21 AM (17 years, 3 days ago)

jake, a good 2 part epoxy will set it back in. just be sure to do a dry run (clamp with no glue). be sure to use waxpaper between the clamp and the glue. glues wont stick to waxpaper.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2446759 - 03/18/04 12:45 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

HOW TO PROPERLY SET UP A GUITAR

there are 3 steps to setting up a guitar:
1)neck bow
2)string height
3)intonation

1) to set neck bow, tune the instrument to how you will usually be tuning it. hold the instrument so that the bottom strap button is on your chin and look past the pickups and down the neck. you should see a very slight bow... and i mean VERY SLIGHT. if it is bowed to far towards the strings, turn the truss rod bolt clock wise 1/4 turn at a time. then gently push/pull on the neck to help it adjust. repeat this process until you have an ever so slight bow towards the strings.

2) to set string height, if adjusting the neck didnt set it to where it should be, is to lower the saddles. this is accomplished by the 2 (usually) screws on top of the saddle. i like to take each string down until it buzzes, retune the guitar to bring the neck back to tension, then adjust each string's saddle screws 1/2 turn each until the buzz just stops. even if there is a slight buzz, its ok for now... you'll see why in a second. do this process with each string making sure to keep JUST THAT STRING in tune while adjusting it. the other strings will slowly go out of tune.... thats ok. now, go back and re-tune the instrument. bringing it back up to tune should get rid of the tiny bit of buzz you left in the instrument... and... if you did step one correctly (neck bow) you should have super low action that doesnt buzz and ables you to play much faster. if you still catch a buzz just adjust that saddle about an 1/8th of a turn. that should handle it.

3)intonation is achieved by placing the 12th fret harmonics directly over the 12th fret. the way to do this is to tune the instrument perfectly. hit the 12th fret harmonic to tune the instrument. now, as lightly (finger pressure-wise) as you can play that note, play it and see if it's higher or lower in pitch compared to the harmonic. tightening that screw will move the saddle towards the bridge effectively making the string longer. that is what you do when the note is higher than the harmonic. visa-versa the change the intonation the other direction. the number one mistake people make when setting intonation is pressing the string too hard when playing the 12th fret note which actually bends the note a little higher than it would have been if played lightly.


now, once you've done all of these steps, play the hell out of your guitar for about an hour then put it down for the night. it will keep adjusting a little, especially the neck bow adjustment. the next day, tune it up and see how it feels. if it is still not intonating correctly, my guess is that you are pressing the strings too hard when you play. lighten up your grip a little. touch the guitar how you touch the back of your girlfriends neck.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2446826 - 03/18/04 01:06 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Excellent info Automan :smile:

Here is a link some may also find useful, it mainly deals with properly setting up bass guitars, however I am sure some of the points described could be applied to regular guitars aswell.

Setup Instruction Manual


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2458735 - 03/21/04 11:18 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

hey,

I recently got an EMG 81 pickup(active humbucker) I'm planning on putting in a Jackson performer I have. The pups that are in it right now are uber terrible, so I'm just going to unhook them for the time being and only run the EMG, until I get some more decent ones to put in there.
Problem is, there's a wire connecting the new tone and volume controls that is shorter than the distance between the corresponding holes in the body of my guitar(see pic, it's the exposed wire, not the insulated one, I tried straightening it, but no go)


So I was wondering if anyone here would happen to know how I would go about rigging it up to fit and work correctly without drilling new holes or some shit. I know there has to be a way, just not sure how simple it would be to do or whether I should try it myself or go pay to have someone set it up for me :\ . I understand the wiring diagram, but I don't really know much about electronics and don't want to mess shit up trying to get it to fit. I e-mailed EMG about it a couple days ago, but no reply yet and I was just wondering if anyone here would know.

DH


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2458962 - 03/22/04 12:31 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

do you know how to solder? if so, you have 2 options. (by the way, that is a capacitor

1a) easiest method: clip one of the wires and solder in an 18 guage silver threaded insulated wire as a jumper from the capacitor to the pot terminal.
1b) better, but a touch more involved: desolder the capacitor from one of the pot terminals and solder in a jumper wire (same kind as above)

2) best method: desolder the capacitor totally from each terminal and take it to your local electronics supply house and just get one with longer leads to solder back into place. if you brought your guitar into my shop, this is the method i would use.


if you dont feel comfortable soldering, you should take the guitar to your local guitar shop and they will do it for not too much money. it would take me about 2 minutes to perform this operation, so you shouldnt have to pay more than $15 for the work.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2460172 - 03/22/04 02:48 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Cool, thanks for the quick reply, shrooms for you :laugh:

I've never soldered before, but I have the equipment around and am pretty sure I could do it.  I'd definitely be sure to get a little practice on the old pots before I try to do anything to the new ones.  I went looking around for capacitors today though and couldn't find any the same as the one in there with longer leads. Also couldn't find any 18 guage silver threaded wire, all they had was speaker wire, which I figured wouldn't work so I didn't buy it.  But I was thinking I might be able to snip a piece of wire off the old wiring and use that, being I'm just gonna trash it after I pull it outta there anyway...  Here's a look in the other side where the wire I'm thinking of is at, the black wire between the pots looks like it may be what you described:

Whaddya think?  Should I go for it or just wait until I can find a capacitor that'll fit?  I'm off on break this week, so I'd like to get it done now, but I'll be heading back to seattle at the end of the week and am pretty sure I'd be able to find what I need there...

DH


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2461046 - 03/22/04 06:50 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

you need to find an real electronics supply store (not radio shack). they will have what you need.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2468161 - 03/24/04 05:51 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

damn I wired all the new shit up today and it actually worked :shocked: .  I ended up just extending the capacitor and the wire between the pots with some wire I had left over and some heat-shrink tubing stuff.  It's not too pretty but it does the job at least, heh, sounds much better too :laugh:.

Anyway, I just wanted to ask if pots are always such a bitch to solder to and if you had any tips or tricks (for future reference).  That was the toughest part for me, seemed like it just sucked up all the heat from the iron and once I got some solder to finally stick, it was really hard to get it melted again to join the wire and pot.  So now I have a pretty nice sized unsightly blob around the wire I soldered to the volume pot.  I almost gave up it got so frustrating.  Then I finally got a little piece to stick and join everything.  Hopefully it stays put for a while...  Maybe the problem is that I'm using a little cheapo 30W solder iron?  That's the only thing I could think of...  I held it against the pot to heat it up before I applied the solder, but it still was hard to get the wire (and solder) to stick to it.  Thanks again for the help dude, very cool of you to do this.

DH


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2468460 - 03/24/04 07:33 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

i only use a 25w iron. i've never found a need to use anything bigger. also, much more than that and you will melt the components inside what you are soldering.

ok, first thing you do is tin the wire. you do this by applying some solder to it and make sure it gets absorbed into the starnds of the wire. you can actually see it suck up the solder. now, with the wire tinned, stick it through the hole in the pot connect and bend it over. next, you place the iron so that it touches both the wire and the terminal on the pot and wait until you see the solder on the tinned wire start to turn to liquid. then apply a little more solder to it and the wire will suck it up and redistribute it to the terminal because it has already absorbed as much solder as it can take. the way you know if you did it right is that the solder will look shiny. if it looks in the least bit dull, the metal didnt get hot enough.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2468538 - 03/24/04 07:54 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Sweet, man if you can help me wit my problem I will be greatful...

So for some reason with my B.C Rich 'Warlock' when i plug it into my amp, theres no volume. Before the volume knob was loose and would just turn and turn and turn, So I tightend the nut and it turned fine. but the volume would still not work. I looked inside it, and saw that there were wires that did not lead anywhere. I brought it in to Gutiar center, and they siad it should work after ighting the nut. So can you help me? any ideas?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: SYCOdelik]
    #2468637 - 03/24/04 08:43 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

guitar center = corporate crap


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2469020 - 03/24/04 10:16 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

yeah, I didn't have any trouble with the connections to the terminals, sorry I wasn't more clear. I meant I had trouble soldering onto the back of the actual pot itself, not the wire terminals.

DH


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2469755 - 03/25/04 01:30 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

yeah, you just have to be sure to tin everything before you solder it..... tinning = k3y.


SYCO: do you have a pic of it?


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Offlinechupucabras
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2478711 - 03/27/04 08:16 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

I recently repaired my strat; I had attempted some modification a few years back and made a complete mess of the soldering and given up. I decided to use the method at www.guitarnuts.com to shield and star ground the electronics, and this time I read up a bit about soldering etc. I managed to get the strat fixed, and also sorted out proper shielding and grounding in my sg and my jazz bass. I've also recently attempted some simple guitar effects circuits (without much success yet). One of the problems I keep having is tinning wires; I can't seem to get the solder to flow onto the wires. The iron itself is well tipped and wiped, and the wire has usually just been stripped, so I don't think it's a problem with one of the surfaces being dirty. What do you find is the best method for keeping the wire still or at least getting a good contact with the iron as this is the only other thing I can think of that might cause this...

Dan


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: chupucabras]
    #2485638 - 03/31/04 12:03 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

i use a 25w iron. never found a need for anything more. to tin, let the wire resy on the iron and feed the wire into the wire, not the iron. when you melt the solder on the iron, then let it flow onto the wire, you are actually just creating a shell around the wire.

use flux cored solder and a good silver wire when ever possible. just let the wire lay on the iron and wait. after about 20 seconds, you can touch the wire with the solder and it will suck it up. you never actually want to touch the iron with the solder becaus it gives a "false reading" as tp the heat level of the wire.

hope this helps. i have been up too long so forgive me if i repeat my self, repeat myself, repeat myself....


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2629874 - 05/03/04 12:48 AM (16 years, 10 months ago)

This is more of a setup/adjustment issue, not a repair.

I want to tune my guitar one whole step down. Which string guages will I need to use and how do I adjust the guitar for the new tuning?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Mandee]
    #2631958 - 05/03/04 03:22 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

to tune down a whole step i would run 11's for strings. depending on how ur guitar was set up in the factory, you might need to reslot the nut to take the wider strings. if you find that they fit but tend to "hang up" in the string slots, take some sandpaper to a pencil tip until you get some graphite (which is what the "lead" actually is now) and put that in the string slots in the nut. graphite is a natural lubricant and should loosen up the binding if its just a minor problem. after you get the strings on, do a routine setup.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: automan]
    #2632628 - 05/03/04 05:32 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Post deleted by oneducktwoducks

Reason for deletion: .


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2634533 - 05/03/04 11:33 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

if you use oil paints, you'll have to use polyurethane, because the laquer will eat the paint.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2662771 - 05/11/04 12:56 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hey,

my guitar has as a v ugly crack in its paint job on the edge from a fall ... its maybe 2-3 cm in length and 1-2 mm in width. near the crack, the paint lifts up a little bit, what should i do? I cant just leave it be as a bit of wood is showing. I have someone in the family v experienced with sanding and finishing, just not with guitars. Should the area be sanded, and repainted? What kind of paint should I use?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2671945 - 05/13/04 02:57 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hey automan....I was hopin you can help me with my upright. When I strike my E flat, it plays fine but unles I barely tocuh it, the key wil stick. Meaning it will remain in its down position and I wont be able to play it for 15-20 seconds which is alot of time when you are playing a prelude/concerto. Thanks for any input you might provide...i appreciate the service.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: vampirism]
    #2672018 - 05/13/04 03:23 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

morrowind, you cant really repaint just part of a guitar without the same paint the OEM used. i would either strip and repaint and laquer the instrument, or call it character and not worry about it.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: SillyWilly]
    #2672039 - 05/13/04 03:29 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

sillywilly, i will assume you mean an upright non-electric piano. since it is an upright, it will probably have a triple action lever, meaning 2 pivot points between the key and the hammer, make sure they are all free with a little wd-40. but, since you are saying that it does NOT stick when you hit it softly, i would guess that it is the felt piece that actually strikes the strings. if it is a key above first octave, it is actually hitting 3 strings that sound the note. after years of use, grooves can be worn too deep in the hammer felt, so it will stick between the strings and not want to release. take the front cover off the piano and strike the key to see if it is staying stuck to the strings and get back to me. if thats the problem, i will tell you how to re-felt a hammer for a piano.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2672480 - 05/13/04 08:52 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

well damn huh..

I don't like this character :tongue:

eventually i may pay someone to strip the whole thing down and repaint it, how much does that usually cost, do you know? thanks.. well unless stripping it and such is an easy matter, but i doubt it is


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: vampirism]
    #2673497 - 05/13/04 02:27 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

actually, if its a laquer guitar, its pretty easy. you just need to tell exactly what it has on it in the way of woods, binding, ferrules, etc.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2673686 - 05/13/04 03:30 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hem.
im not exactly sure. its an ibanez ar250 if youve dealt with one, if not i only have what i found online on it:
* Mahogany / Flamed Maple Top body
* AR neck
* Medium frets
* Full Tune II bridge
* IBZ AH1 (H) neck pu
* IBZ AH2 (H) bridge pu
* Chrome hardware
( all specs.. but its flamed maple on the top of the guitar, where the crack is )

Binding - would this be something that runs along the whole edge of the top guitar? It has a white, plastic (?) thing like that


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: vampirism]
    #2675989 - 05/13/04 11:32 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

the reason i asked about the binding (yes, the plastic band that hides the wood seems on the edge) is that acetone will eat it, so if you decide to strip it, you should steer clear of it. sand off the laquer around the binding with 150 grit paper.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2679653 - 05/14/04 09:07 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

ah, cool

so im also assuming that first it's painted with some sort of primer ( what kind would work best for this? *), and then the glossy lacquer (also, what kind of lacquer is best? *)? If i wanted to get an artistic design on, could it be made before applying the glossy lacquer? Would oil paint be ok for that?

*id want it to emphasize the beauty of the wood itself rather than coloring it very much

thanks


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: vampirism]
    #2681174 - 05/15/04 04:31 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

if you are going to paint something artistic, you'll want to use polyuerethane because laquer will eat the paint. you will want to apply a wood stain to the maple and cover the mahoganywith wood filler, let it flash over, then wipe it off. that way the grain lines in the porous mahogany wont pit after laquering. for a job like this, spray can laquer from www.stewmac.com will work fine. check them out anyways, they sell good stuff.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2692983 - 05/17/04 09:33 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hey, automan. :smile:

you know about the project i have in the works. i'm going to have to make a laminate neck, because 1" is the thickest mahogany i could get ahold of here. we have so much oak, walnut, maple, and other native wood here, that nobody is the slightest bit interested in importing other hardwoods. i just happened to find a place that had special ordered some mahogany for someone and they never picked it up.

here's my question for the day: what are your thoughts on using elmer's "carpenter's wood glue?" i'm not starting any gluing just yet. first, i have to go to my parent's house to use the shopsmith. i'm asking ahead of time, so that i can order some other glue if elmer's isn't worthy.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: eric_the_red]
    #2694165 - 05/18/04 01:18 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

any good quality wood glue is fine. be sure that the wood is kiln dried first though. if it is still too wet, the woodglue wont hold because the moisture will break the bond. clamp every 3" maximum. or, even better, put it in a press overnight. also, be sure to run everything through a jointer before you do any of this. you need perfectly smooth sides.


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Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: automan]
    #2705417 - 05/20/04 01:39 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2710932 - 05/21/04 02:00 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

scroll up a little. i answered that a while earlier.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2713236 - 05/22/04 12:43 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Thanks for the reply automan, sorry I didnt respond earlier...Ive been outta town. So I opened the piano to see what was goin on and evidentally the hammer stiking the key is fine....it returns back to its position and everything, however, there is a felt piece shaped like a triangle that is supposed to muffle the strings after so they wont continue to ring. FOr some reason, this piece just remains retracted and doesnt go back inbetween the 2 strings like it is supposed to. (The Key is the E flat below middle C by the way) Do you know what can be wrong?
Thanks a bunch, SillyWilly


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2771527 - 06/07/04 01:46 PM (16 years, 8 months ago)

Hey automan, how's it going man? Listen, I have this really obscure situation I could use some help with.

I'm attempting to install a Fishman Acoustic "Rare Earth" pickup. In order to do so, it is required that I drill out the end pin for an input jack, which (obviously) has a wider diameter than the end pin did.

Now, my problem is.. the instructions tell you to use a 15/32" (11.9 mm) spade drill bit. I checked a few hardware stores/walmarts and didn't see this size anywhere. So I decided I would just order one from somewhere online.

So I come home and search for "15/32 spade bit" in google/yahoo, and EVERY ONE of the 6 results was from a site offering an installation guide for my pickup.

It's like they just made up the size or something.

Where the hell do I find these obscure tools and tool accessories in strange sizes?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: JacquesCousteau]
    #2772620 - 06/07/04 07:58 PM (16 years, 8 months ago)

www.stewmac.com

dont get the bit. if you dont have the speed correct, you will tear out some laquer. use a hand ream.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2772970 - 06/07/04 10:18 PM (16 years, 8 months ago)

Actually, I ended up just trying a half-inch spade bit and it did the job pretty well.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: JacquesCousteau]
    #2873586 - 07/09/04 05:33 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

hey automan,
A friend of mine has a fender accoustic, squire I believe. Anyway, he left the thing in a moist hot shed for a while and the back of the bridge pulled up a bit and now the action is WAY off. Well, took the bridge off and I am kinda stuck on what the best way to get this thing back to normal. I sanded the bottom of the bridge and the surface of the body where the bridge goes and got the old adhesive off. The bridge seems to be flush with the body(w/o glue on ofcourse), and the wood doesnt seem to be warped beyond recognition(Ive seen worse). So what kind of adhesive will hold the bridge permanently? Any other tips I need to know will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance!
-J


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: MadSeasonAbove]
    #2874498 - 07/09/04 11:33 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

after making sure the bridge and the top where you will glue are clean, take a yard stick or string and measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret. then, measure from the 12th fret to where the bridge will be. mark a line. thats the p-lace where you will line up the saddle. you will need 3 or 4 deep clamps. use any good wood glue. i like tightbond woodglue. apply excess to both the top and the bridge and put in place. use the deep C-clamps by putting through the soundhole. put a clamp in the middle of the bridge first. then put a clamp on each end of the bridge. make sure the saddle lines up with the mark you made so that it is equa-distant from the 12th fret in relation to the nut. clean all the excess glue pushed out from under the bridge during clamping. let it set for 24-48 hours in a relatively dry place out of the sun. thats it. not too hard at all :smile:


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2875568 - 07/10/04 10:16 AM (16 years, 7 months ago)

Quote:

automan said:
take a yard stick or string and measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret. then, measure from the 12th fret to where the bridge will be. mark a line. thats the p-lace where you will line up the saddle.




Exactly what nut are you talking about? Not quite sure what ya mean. Thanks
-J


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: MadSeasonAbove]
    #2875610 - 07/10/04 11:07 AM (16 years, 7 months ago)

He's referring to the small piece of plastic or bone that "supports" the tensioned portion of the string at the neck end of the guitar. It's located between the head and neck of the guitar.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: JacquesCousteau]
    #2875662 - 07/10/04 12:07 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

^^oh ok, thanks. My guitar doesnt have one(not that I can see), but I believe the one I am repairing does(its not in front of me). I will post pictures of the guitar later.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2915666 - 07/22/04 01:16 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

How do you fix intonation?

My high E string's 12 fret harmonic, is like a 1/4 step off from the note played when the 12 fret is held down.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Grav]
    #2917055 - 07/22/04 07:41 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

i asume you have an electric guitar. for most bridge designs, there is a screw on the back that slids the saddle back and forth. if the note is too high, tighten the screw which slids the saddle towards the rear of the guitar. this will make the string "longer" and lower the note towards the harmonic center. do the reverse if the note is fretting too low.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2917106 - 07/22/04 07:58 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

Cool, thanks automan, i will try it out later

btw, i have one of those classic body style Jay Tersers with a fixed bridge


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2929760 - 07/26/04 08:48 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

hey auto, finally got a Q to ask :wink:
Recently after stringing my guitar, I noticed the string was touching the first fre to the point where it wouldn't ring out clearly on the first and 5th strings, the 5th string was fixed by adjusting the height of the string (I forget what they call that, air time or something?)
Anyway, tbe first string isn't working like the 5th, I've raised it has high as it would go,  still sounds like shit. I'm using the same brand/same gauges I've always used.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: rommstein2001]
    #2929778 - 07/26/04 08:54 PM (16 years, 7 months ago)

well, I opened up the back and adjusted the springs that hold the bridge in place and it helped, but its still not clear.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: rommstein2001]
    #2938788 - 07/29/04 01:21 AM (16 years, 7 months ago)

have you checked the pitch of the neck? hold the guitar with the butt against your chin and look over the pickups and down the neck. how far has it bowed? sounds like it was placed in a humid area and the neck bowed a bit. check it and get back to me.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2978946 - 08/08/04 07:36 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

String busted, looked down at my briddge and saw this....what happened to it and how can i fix it? please help





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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Bardo_being]
    #2979125 - 08/08/04 09:13 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

you lost a few springs that attach to the bridge from below. open up the back plate and take a look. either a few springs broke/popped loose, or the spring retainer came off. take a pick of the inside after you pull the back cavity cover off.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2985744 - 08/10/04 01:50 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

I don't know....everything in the back seems to look ok, but then again I'm no expert..what do you see?








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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Bardo_being]
    #2989091 - 08/11/04 01:52 AM (16 years, 6 months ago)

hmmm, did you switch to a much heavier gauge string?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2997676 - 08/12/04 11:00 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

well, the only thing i've come up with is that possibly the strings are too tight. when i lossen them up a lot the block will go down, but of course it plays like shit...is there anything you can think of for this?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Bardo_being]
    #3002336 - 08/13/04 10:47 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

get a tuner and tune it correctly. if that doesnt work, take it to a guitar store. i've speculated all i can without holding it in my hands.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #3004437 - 08/14/04 03:30 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

yeah i think that's my only option at this point. thanks for the help though


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Bardo_being]
    #3005646 - 08/14/04 11:36 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Bardo_being said:






that screw in the upper left of the cavity looks like it's not even holding that plate back at all. is that screw (or both of those top two) loose or stripped from the hole?

it looks like you can add two more springs on that setup. maybe you could borrow a couple from someone and see if that helps.


p.s. automan: check out the wood i just got today (for a future project).



re: the current project
i got a seymour duncan invader bridge pickup, fishman powerbridge, and gibson stopbar. i still need to decide what i want for the neck pickup and tuners. i'd like to go with a p90, but that just seems like a horrid combo with the invader.


Edited by eric_the_red (08/14/04 11:45 PM)


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: eric_the_red]
    #3015904 - 08/17/04 11:51 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

nice spalted maple you got there, eric. has it already been dried or will you have to set it up for a few years?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #3022596 - 08/19/04 11:18 AM (16 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

automan said:
nice spalted maple




good eye, there. it is spalted maple.

it has been kiln dried, so it's ready and waiting on me.
soon, i'll have some more wood cut and ready as well, including the top that will go with that maple. i've got some red cedar, douglas fir, and engelmann spruce. i'm going to see which one looks best with that back/side set.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: eric_the_red]
    #3025071 - 08/19/04 08:45 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

i got my money on the spruce :smile:


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #3039550 - 08/23/04 02:41 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

It is indeed bowed slightly upward towards the top of the neck, right around the 3rd fret.
You're good :laugh:


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Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: rommstein2001]
    #3088256 - 09/03/04 06:24 PM (16 years, 6 months ago)

Post deleted by oneducktwoducks

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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #3096906 - 09/06/04 12:42 AM (16 years, 5 months ago)

covering acrylic with poly is fine. i would only go poly if you wanted to save art you have painted on it. otherwise, use laquer.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #3098329 - 09/06/04 10:55 AM (16 years, 5 months ago)

I have an Ibanez EDB700, similar to what bassvikinggod posted.
anyway, its been around for a while and is pretty jacked up.. the eq knobs are all busted off, but it was working fine until about two weeks ago.
so the input just decides to stop working.. well I don't know if it is the input or something else with the electronics.. methinks something else like volume knob maybe.. but I took a look inside and nothing *appears* to be messed up.

meh.. sorry couldn't provide more info.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Shroomism]
    #3495886 - 12/14/04 06:09 AM (16 years, 2 months ago)

sorry, i've been working for a while in anothr state. i am back now. when it comes to electronics, someone knowledgable should probably take a look at it. little things are easy to miss.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #3586621 - 01/06/05 12:21 AM (16 years, 2 months ago)

Hi, I just bought a Peavey International Series ll, for $10.00 So I know at least I didn't get ripped off too bad!!! :tongue2: It has some problems.
First Is there anywhere I can find a wiring diagram for it. It has a line input(for the amp), it has a Tone, and a volume. It has 2 single coil P-Bass Pickups. It worked for about 10 seconds and now it won't play. :confused:  I took the pick guard off and there was a wire broke  :mad2:, (the one that goes from the input to under the bridge?{where the stings are at?}) well I fixed that one and went to put it back together and noticed that a wire (a blue one) coming from the 2nd pickup was broke off from somewhere. Not sure from where.

Also is there anyway to tell if the pickups are bad :evil: and can you take them apart????

Also there is a few chips in the paint. :shocked: Is there anywhere I can go and get some paint to fix these missing parts in the paint...It has a glossy black finish.
Thanks for any help.
Kim :crazy2:
luvmy2kids@peoplepc.com


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #4177368 - 05/15/05 09:28 AM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Hey auto, thanks for your advice earlier

its funny ive been playing guitar for about a decade, yet i never took the time to get down inside workings of the thing.

I have another question.. my low E string is acting a little funky. it is dropped to D, and if I strum an open powerchord it sounds 'garbled' like its out of tune, though if i pluck each string individually it sounds perfectly in tune. a powerchord on any of the frets sounds fine.

it is a 50 gauge string, and the A string is like only a 36 or something, perhaps this is the problem?

also the low E and A strings seem to be suffering from the buzzing thing. i loosened the action but it doesnt seem to be working.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #5952099 - 08/10/06 11:45 PM (14 years, 6 months ago)

I'm wiring together a Telecaster, and the pickups don't work when they're both selected (they each work individually). Would this be a wiring mistake, or is it likely that the switch is faulty?


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: PinballWizard]
    #5952123 - 08/10/06 11:54 PM (14 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

PinballWizard said:
I'm wiring together a Telecaster, and the pickups don't work when they're both selected (they each work individually). Would this be a wiring mistake, or is it likely that the switch is faulty?




gimme a minute. i'll draw a diagram and post it... be forwarned... i cant draw well on or off a pc... brb


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: PinballWizard]
    #5952186 - 08/11/06 12:11 AM (14 years, 6 months ago)

ok, just drew this. see if it helps.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #5952195 - 08/11/06 12:13 AM (14 years, 6 months ago)

you have to jumper the bottom and top half of the switch so that the middle section activates both.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Shroomism]
    #5952271 - 08/11/06 12:29 AM (14 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Shroomism said:
I have an Ibanez EDB700, similar to what bassvikinggod posted.
anyway, its been around for a while and is pretty jacked up.. the eq knobs are all busted off, but it was working fine until about two weeks ago.
so the input just decides to stop working.. well I don't know if it is the input or something else with the electronics.. methinks something else like volume knob maybe.. but I took a look inside and nothing *appears* to be messed up.

meh.. sorry couldn't provide more info.




I can field this question..... Shroomism, before the guitar completely died, was the input scratchy, or intermittent no matter what cable you used?
If it is just a female 1/4" problem, it is easily fixable: the colored wire, probably red or white, should go to the tip (or the part where the tip is supposed to touch).... probably just came loose or old solder joint, just solder it back in place with a 60/40 rosin core solder....

if it is a deeper electrical problem, it would be best to take it to someone, because there is no way you could talk someone through anything much deeper without making you take it completely apart.

ALSO......ALWAYS CHECK THE STANDBY SWITCH.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #5952364 - 08/11/06 12:53 AM (14 years, 6 months ago)

Great, thanks a lot. I'll try it tomorrow. The Fender-type switches are a lot trickier than the Gibson ones.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #7142431 - 07/07/07 04:37 PM (13 years, 7 months ago)

for some of you new folks that have never seen this thread. if you have any questions about repairing your instrument, take a look through this thread. if you cant find what you need, feel free to ask.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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InvisibleautomanM
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musicians please help [Re: automan]
    #8172343 - 03/20/08 05:21 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

i am building a stringed instrument repair wiki. can you guys give me some feedback on what sort of repair articles you would like to see. i want to put together 50 or so full articles with pictures before i go live with it.

also, what sort of other functions would you like to see in terms of the site as a whole? things like forums or other features?

thanks for any help you guys can give.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #13975643 - 02/16/11 10:08 PM (10 years, 19 days ago)

This thread is 1063 days old, but I am reviving it all the same for some of you new folks. Any questions about stringed instrument repair, just ask.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #13977679 - 02/17/11 08:31 AM (10 years, 18 days ago)

Hmm,maybe you could help me. Have this crack in the side of my guitar and the back of the body is starting to come away. I brought it to the shop and was told it wouldn't be worth the money to get it repaired.

I tried to wood glue the back part coming away but it seems actually trying to get glue in there has made it worse.

The guitar cost me 700e so I'm quite pissed off that it's so weak. It's a composite guitar made with high pressure laminate. Not happy with it at all really,sounds great but it seems I can't even take it out because it will get smashed up,isn't loud enough either but it's my own fault for buying it obviously.

This is the crack. I'm thinking maybe try and get glue on what I can from the outside and maybe get some sort of stick to push it out from the sound hole?


It probably looks a bit worse than this now...

This is where the back is coming away.



Honestly I'd like to sell it and get one that would last through some wear and tear. I mean I've a classical guitar picked up for cheap years ago and it's in perfect nick,my friends shoddy acoustic that has been passed through several hands inc. my own is also untouched. Both solid wood guitars...

Won't be getting a composite again anyway...

Any advice you could give would be much appreciated:thumbup:


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: LobsterSauce]
    #13980234 - 02/17/11 07:49 PM (10 years, 18 days ago)

I'd just get a new one. You said the magic words that would make me turn it away in my shop. "I tried to wood glue." Whenever a customer tries to glue something themselves it's almost always a total pain in the ass to fix it from that point.

Wood glues won't adhere to composites. With guitars like the Martin X series and Ovation styles, they have a special resin glue they use to bind those.

Get a good Taylor or similar acoustic and it'll treat you right for decades to come.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #13980403 - 02/17/11 08:20 PM (10 years, 18 days ago)

if you are going to use wood glue , might as well throw a C-clamp on there.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: SneezingPenis]
    #13980863 - 02/17/11 09:39 PM (10 years, 18 days ago)

If you are gluing a back (if both are wood) that is detaching, use spool clamps.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #13981303 - 02/17/11 11:00 PM (10 years, 18 days ago)

i meant permanently


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #13983193 - 02/18/11 07:29 AM (10 years, 17 days ago)

Actually I hadn't touched it before going into the shop and the guy said to wood glue it so I did.

I had a dream last night that my buddy snapped the neck on it and I was freaked but happy that he was going to get me a new one:lol:

I don't have the money to throw down on nice guitars so I was kind of hoping I'd get at least 3/400e for this or more possibly to put towards a new one.

If I could just get the back in order then it would just have that crack...


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: SneezingPenis]
    #13986286 - 02/18/11 09:01 PM (10 years, 17 days ago)

Quote:

SneezingPenis said:
i meant permanently




:ilold:

i getcha now :laugh:


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #19517813 - 02/03/14 10:35 PM (7 years, 1 month ago)

Can you all believe this thread is over a decade old now?


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #19521579 - 02/04/14 07:32 PM (7 years, 30 days ago)

hell yeah! :hairmetal:


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Offlinedebianlinux
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #22283280 - 09/24/15 01:08 PM (5 years, 5 months ago)

Quote:

automan said:
Can you all believe this thread is over a decade old now?




Yeah, so, I have a 1996 Baby Taylor upon which the bridge piece just cracked across the length of it through the pin holes. After doing some research I have learned the following:

With the crack the way it is, the action is effectively lowered too much and strings don't buzz but just mute out on the fret board.

Taylor offers lifetime warranty repairs to the original owner, this repair qualifies, but I am not the original owner

Taylor does not sell the bridge pieces on their site

My bridge cracked because my house got to 90%+ rH for an extended time and I left the strings wound tight. I now detension the strings on my other guitars in storage.

It seems the repair is within novice capability range (I do have wood working experience) but I would want an OEM replacement bridge piece. I'm thinking I'm probably better off getting a professional to do it since the guitar actually has collector value.


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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: debianlinux]
    #22296437 - 09/27/15 12:59 AM (5 years, 5 months ago)

Yeah, you need to have a pro do this. There are specialized tools like deep neck clamps, specifically shaped heat blankets, etc.

Find a Taylor authorized service center close to you. They will use an actual Baby Taylor bridge. It has a specific shape and 2 index pins on the bottom for perfect alignment.


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No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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