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Offlineekomstop
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2446826 - 03/18/04 01:06 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Excellent info Automan :smile:

Here is a link some may also find useful, it mainly deals with properly setting up bass guitars, however I am sure some of the points described could be applied to regular guitars aswell.

Setup Instruction Manual


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Invisiblespores
haploid
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Registered: 02/19/99
Posts: 2,486
Loc: Washington
Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2458735 - 03/21/04 11:18 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

hey,

I recently got an EMG 81 pickup(active humbucker) I'm planning on putting in a Jackson performer I have. The pups that are in it right now are uber terrible, so I'm just going to unhook them for the time being and only run the EMG, until I get some more decent ones to put in there.
Problem is, there's a wire connecting the new tone and volume controls that is shorter than the distance between the corresponding holes in the body of my guitar(see pic, it's the exposed wire, not the insulated one, I tried straightening it, but no go)


So I was wondering if anyone here would happen to know how I would go about rigging it up to fit and work correctly without drilling new holes or some shit. I know there has to be a way, just not sure how simple it would be to do or whether I should try it myself or go pay to have someone set it up for me :\ . I understand the wiring diagram, but I don't really know much about electronics and don't want to mess shit up trying to get it to fit. I e-mailed EMG about it a couple days ago, but no reply yet and I was just wondering if anyone here would know.

DH


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2458962 - 03/22/04 12:31 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

do you know how to solder? if so, you have 2 options. (by the way, that is a capacitor

1a) easiest method: clip one of the wires and solder in an 18 guage silver threaded insulated wire as a jumper from the capacitor to the pot terminal.
1b) better, but a touch more involved: desolder the capacitor from one of the pot terminals and solder in a jumper wire (same kind as above)

2) best method: desolder the capacitor totally from each terminal and take it to your local electronics supply house and just get one with longer leads to solder back into place. if you brought your guitar into my shop, this is the method i would use.


if you dont feel comfortable soldering, you should take the guitar to your local guitar shop and they will do it for not too much money. it would take me about 2 minutes to perform this operation, so you shouldnt have to pay more than $15 for the work.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisiblespores
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2460172 - 03/22/04 02:48 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Cool, thanks for the quick reply, shrooms for you :laugh:

I've never soldered before, but I have the equipment around and am pretty sure I could do it.  I'd definitely be sure to get a little practice on the old pots before I try to do anything to the new ones.  I went looking around for capacitors today though and couldn't find any the same as the one in there with longer leads. Also couldn't find any 18 guage silver threaded wire, all they had was speaker wire, which I figured wouldn't work so I didn't buy it.  But I was thinking I might be able to snip a piece of wire off the old wiring and use that, being I'm just gonna trash it after I pull it outta there anyway...  Here's a look in the other side where the wire I'm thinking of is at, the black wire between the pots looks like it may be what you described:

Whaddya think?  Should I go for it or just wait until I can find a capacitor that'll fit?  I'm off on break this week, so I'd like to get it done now, but I'll be heading back to seattle at the end of the week and am pretty sure I'd be able to find what I need there...

DH


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2461046 - 03/22/04 06:50 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

you need to find an real electronics supply store (not radio shack). they will have what you need.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisiblespores
haploid
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2468161 - 03/24/04 05:51 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

damn I wired all the new shit up today and it actually worked :shocked: .  I ended up just extending the capacitor and the wire between the pots with some wire I had left over and some heat-shrink tubing stuff.  It's not too pretty but it does the job at least, heh, sounds much better too :laugh:.

Anyway, I just wanted to ask if pots are always such a bitch to solder to and if you had any tips or tricks (for future reference).  That was the toughest part for me, seemed like it just sucked up all the heat from the iron and once I got some solder to finally stick, it was really hard to get it melted again to join the wire and pot.  So now I have a pretty nice sized unsightly blob around the wire I soldered to the volume pot.  I almost gave up it got so frustrating.  Then I finally got a little piece to stick and join everything.  Hopefully it stays put for a while...  Maybe the problem is that I'm using a little cheapo 30W solder iron?  That's the only thing I could think of...  I held it against the pot to heat it up before I applied the solder, but it still was hard to get the wire (and solder) to stick to it.  Thanks again for the help dude, very cool of you to do this.

DH


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2468460 - 03/24/04 07:33 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

i only use a 25w iron. i've never found a need to use anything bigger. also, much more than that and you will melt the components inside what you are soldering.

ok, first thing you do is tin the wire. you do this by applying some solder to it and make sure it gets absorbed into the starnds of the wire. you can actually see it suck up the solder. now, with the wire tinned, stick it through the hole in the pot connect and bend it over. next, you place the iron so that it touches both the wire and the terminal on the pot and wait until you see the solder on the tinned wire start to turn to liquid. then apply a little more solder to it and the wire will suck it up and redistribute it to the terminal because it has already absorbed as much solder as it can take. the way you know if you did it right is that the solder will look shiny. if it looks in the least bit dull, the metal didnt get hot enough.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineSYCOdelik
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2468538 - 03/24/04 07:54 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

Sweet, man if you can help me wit my problem I will be greatful...

So for some reason with my B.C Rich 'Warlock' when i plug it into my amp, theres no volume. Before the volume knob was loose and would just turn and turn and turn, So I tightend the nut and it turned fine. but the volume would still not work. I looked inside it, and saw that there were wires that did not lead anywhere. I brought it in to Gutiar center, and they siad it should work after ighting the nut. So can you help me? any ideas?


--------------------

~Life is one long ride, make it the best ride you can.


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OfflineBlastrid
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: SYCOdelik]
    #2468637 - 03/24/04 08:43 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

guitar center = corporate crap


--------------------
Blas'?trid (bl?s tr?d)
    n.  3rd generation derivitave of a combination of 'bastard' and 'blasted'.  Used as both an insult or an expletive.
    ex.  Blastrid!

Stereopattern  <--My music.


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Invisiblespores
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2469020 - 03/24/04 10:16 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

yeah, I didn't have any trouble with the connections to the terminals, sorry I wasn't more clear. I meant I had trouble soldering onto the back of the actual pot itself, not the wire terminals.

DH


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: spores]
    #2469755 - 03/25/04 01:30 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

yeah, you just have to be sure to tin everything before you solder it..... tinning = k3y.


SYCO: do you have a pic of it?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinechupucabras
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2478711 - 03/27/04 08:16 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

I recently repaired my strat; I had attempted some modification a few years back and made a complete mess of the soldering and given up. I decided to use the method at www.guitarnuts.com to shield and star ground the electronics, and this time I read up a bit about soldering etc. I managed to get the strat fixed, and also sorted out proper shielding and grounding in my sg and my jazz bass. I've also recently attempted some simple guitar effects circuits (without much success yet). One of the problems I keep having is tinning wires; I can't seem to get the solder to flow onto the wires. The iron itself is well tipped and wiped, and the wire has usually just been stripped, so I don't think it's a problem with one of the surfaces being dirty. What do you find is the best method for keeping the wire still or at least getting a good contact with the iron as this is the only other thing I can think of that might cause this...

Dan


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: chupucabras]
    #2485638 - 03/31/04 12:03 AM (16 years, 11 months ago)

i use a 25w iron. never found a need for anything more. to tin, let the wire resy on the iron and feed the wire into the wire, not the iron. when you melt the solder on the iron, then let it flow onto the wire, you are actually just creating a shell around the wire.

use flux cored solder and a good silver wire when ever possible. just let the wire lay on the iron and wait. after about 20 seconds, you can touch the wire with the solder and it will suck it up. you never actually want to touch the iron with the solder becaus it gives a "false reading" as tp the heat level of the wire.

hope this helps. i have been up too long so forgive me if i repeat my self, repeat myself, repeat myself....


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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InvisibleMandee
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Registered: 03/29/04
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Loc: Atlanta
Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2629874 - 05/03/04 12:48 AM (16 years, 10 months ago)

This is more of a setup/adjustment issue, not a repair.

I want to tune my guitar one whole step down. Which string guages will I need to use and how do I adjust the guitar for the new tuning?


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Mandee]
    #2631958 - 05/03/04 03:22 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

to tune down a whole step i would run 11's for strings. depending on how ur guitar was set up in the factory, you might need to reslot the nut to take the wider strings. if you find that they fit but tend to "hang up" in the string slots, take some sandpaper to a pencil tip until you get some graphite (which is what the "lead" actually is now) and put that in the string slots in the nut. graphite is a natural lubricant and should loosen up the binding if its just a minor problem. after you get the strings on, do a routine setup.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisibleoneducktwoducks
Registered: 12/13/02
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Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: automan]
    #2632628 - 05/03/04 05:32 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Post deleted by oneducktwoducks

Reason for deletion: .


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2634533 - 05/03/04 11:33 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

if you use oil paints, you'll have to use polyurethane, because the laquer will eat the paint.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisiblevampirism
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2662771 - 05/11/04 12:56 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hey,

my guitar has as a v ugly crack in its paint job on the edge from a fall ... its maybe 2-3 cm in length and 1-2 mm in width. near the crack, the paint lifts up a little bit, what should i do? I cant just leave it be as a bit of wood is showing. I have someone in the family v experienced with sanding and finishing, just not with guitars. Should the area be sanded, and repainted? What kind of paint should I use?


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OfflineSillyWilly
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Registered: 05/04/04
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2671945 - 05/13/04 02:57 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

hey automan....I was hopin you can help me with my upright. When I strike my E flat, it plays fine but unles I barely tocuh it, the key wil stick. Meaning it will remain in its down position and I wont be able to play it for 15-20 seconds which is alot of time when you are playing a prelude/concerto. Thanks for any input you might provide...i appreciate the service.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: vampirism]
    #2672018 - 05/13/04 03:23 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

morrowind, you cant really repaint just part of a guitar without the same paint the OEM used. i would either strip and repaint and laquer the instrument, or call it character and not worry about it.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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