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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276664 - 01/27/04 05:17 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Hey, man, by the way, tusen takk for helping me out! I was considering just taking it in so that they could also get everything properly aligned and everything.. the neck had been warped from shipping, I guess, and I had to do some work on the bridge to straighten it out, and then I had to do some work moving the strings because the notes on the frets weren't on pitch.. but it should be straightened out. :wink:

Tusen takk! :laugh:
Peace.


--------------------
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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2276690 - 01/27/04 05:37 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

dont take it in to be tweeked. that is the simplest thing you can learn to do. neck angle, intonation, and string heighth are the simplest things to adjust.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Registered: 08/22/03
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2277548 - 01/27/04 02:15 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Hey automan, thanks in advance for being so kind as to help us out with our instruments whether or not you know the answer, I appreciate the curtiousy. So a single key (the C2 Bflat) doent play quite right. The key reacts normally when I strike it but for some reason the hammer isnt hittin the string or something because the note just doesnt play. If I stop what Im playing and continue to strike the key a few times, It will finally kick in and act normally for a few seconds. But then, If I dont continue to strike it, the key acts up again. I looked inside the paino and the hammer is moving normally and all, I just cant seeem to find out what the problem is?


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2277802 - 01/27/04 04:02 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

if you take the front off and manually strike the strings with the hammer, does it sound?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2286203 - 01/30/04 04:27 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Yes it does, I am suspecting that maybe for some reason the hammer might not be going far eneouph to hit the strings when it is struck. But then why would it kick in after I continue to strike it?


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2286324 - 01/30/04 05:51 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

sounds like either the hammer needs to be recovered, or the lever mechanism is off center. both are pretty straight forward fixes.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2286328 - 01/30/04 05:59 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Ja, I definitely agree, it is just that sometimes in my lazier moments I consider it.. I've been doing a lot of fucking work on that one to straighten out the neck, and then there is the fretless I got, and god knows what I HAVEN'T done to that...

There is still a situation that needs to be fixed on the Ibanez, and I'll come back here later and explain it in detail, 'cause I don't really have time right now.. but thanks for offering your expertise in this area! :grin:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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Invisibleoneducktwoducks
Registered: 12/13/02
Posts: 2,321
Re: musical instrument repair column *DELETED* [Re: automan]
    #2286525 - 01/30/04 09:46 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Post deleted by oneducktwoducks

Reason for deletion: .


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2287203 - 01/30/04 03:22 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

merl, no prob. mix 1/2 laquer with1/2 laquer thinner, this will be your base coat. spray 2 even coats making sure that they are thin enough not to run. let it dry for 48 hours. the wood will have absorbed some of the first coat, but the second coat becomes the foundation on which the rest of the finish will stand. when spraying, allow 1 hour between coats. after it has cured for 48 hours, spray 2 coats of you colored laquer. let it cured for 48 hours. now, spray 4 coats of clear laquer and let it cured for 48 hours. now use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and a wood block so smooth out the rough spots on the laquer. be sure to clean the sanded finish with naptha to removed any sanding paper residue. now, spray your final 3 topcoats and let it cure for 5 days. again, sand with 400 grit wet/dry to get out rough spots, then move to 600 grit to remove the 400 grit marks. always sand a finish with wet/dry sandpaper that has been soaked in water for 30 minutes first. after it is totally smooth, buff the shine back into it.

notes: be sure, when you are sanding between stages, to do so very lightly. you only want to make it even. if you think you are going to sand through to the color coat, stop sanding. just be sure to spray an extra thick coat the next time you spray. that way you have more room to sand rough spots. for all your finishing needs, stew-mac has tons of cool stuff: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies.html


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Invisibleoneducktwoducks
Registered: 12/13/02
Posts: 2,321
Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2292591 - 02/01/04 10:49 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Okay, I have another question. Today I took apart the guitar I am going to paint (a Squier Bullet; that's why I'm painting it :smile:) and there was a wire running from the volume control to the bridge. It wasn't soldered to the bridge or anything, it just ran through the guitar, up to where the bride is, and the bridge is screwed on so that it covers the ends of the wires. If you don't understand that, let me know and I'll try to describe it better. My question is: Does that wire actually do anything? Does the wires' contact with the bridge have some control over the volume? It doesn't make any sense to me, so I was thinking that I could just take the entire wire out.

Edit: Is it the ground wire?


Edited by MMerletto (02/01/04 11:15 PM)


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2292855 - 02/02/04 01:21 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i think thats the ground wire mmerletto, they normally ground to the bridge.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
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"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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Offlinedebianlinux
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2293648 - 02/02/04 10:47 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

i have this no name super genero electric. the guy who had it before dicked the wiring up pretty good. the volume and tone controls were completely useless, the pickup selsctor was scratchy and only worked on half of it. the selector switch finally went out and i decided to rewire the thing. i plan to replace the selector, both control pots, and possibly all three pickups. considering that i have no experience with internal electric guitar wiring and that the existing wiring is obviously faulty, i would greatly appreciate a simple point to point wiring digram. any tips such as proper grounding or shielding would also be very appreciated.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: oneducktwoducks]
    #2295161 - 02/02/04 09:20 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

its the ground wire, merl.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: debianlinux]
    #2295166 - 02/02/04 09:22 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

debian, i need to know if they are all single coil or if some are hum-buckers. also, are they active (do they take a 9 volt battery?)


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinedebianlinux
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2296556 - 02/03/04 08:36 AM (17 years, 1 month ago)

not active, single coil. like i said, el cheapo.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: debianlinux]
    #2297262 - 02/03/04 02:23 PM (17 years, 1 month ago)

Here is a strat wiring diagram in pdf format. hit me back up if you need help with them.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinejake
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2402553 - 03/04/04 02:12 PM (17 years, 6 days ago)

I've got a bass with a luthite body, and regrettably, one of the "horns" has snapped off... Is there any kind of adhesive I can use to stick it back on? (Yes, I *know* it won't look too great..) Or is it a lost cause?

Thanks

Jake :frown:


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OfflineJacquesCousteau
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: jake]
    #2402624 - 03/04/04 02:36 PM (17 years, 6 days ago)

Anyone know how to tune bongos? I bought some bongos, but I don't know how to tune them. I read some guides, but they just confused me. They basically said to tune in a circle, going around the pegs, tightening them an even amount at a time, until you get to the "sweet spot". But the problem is, I have no idea where the sweet spot is because I've never actually witnessed someone doing it.

They're fun out of tune too, though.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: jake]
    #2405501 - 03/05/04 03:21 AM (17 years, 5 days ago)

jake, a good 2 part epoxy will set it back in. just be sure to do a dry run (clamp with no glue). be sure to use waxpaper between the clamp and the glue. glues wont stick to waxpaper.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2446759 - 03/18/04 12:45 PM (16 years, 11 months ago)

HOW TO PROPERLY SET UP A GUITAR

there are 3 steps to setting up a guitar:
1)neck bow
2)string height
3)intonation

1) to set neck bow, tune the instrument to how you will usually be tuning it. hold the instrument so that the bottom strap button is on your chin and look past the pickups and down the neck. you should see a very slight bow... and i mean VERY SLIGHT. if it is bowed to far towards the strings, turn the truss rod bolt clock wise 1/4 turn at a time. then gently push/pull on the neck to help it adjust. repeat this process until you have an ever so slight bow towards the strings.

2) to set string height, if adjusting the neck didnt set it to where it should be, is to lower the saddles. this is accomplished by the 2 (usually) screws on top of the saddle. i like to take each string down until it buzzes, retune the guitar to bring the neck back to tension, then adjust each string's saddle screws 1/2 turn each until the buzz just stops. even if there is a slight buzz, its ok for now... you'll see why in a second. do this process with each string making sure to keep JUST THAT STRING in tune while adjusting it. the other strings will slowly go out of tune.... thats ok. now, go back and re-tune the instrument. bringing it back up to tune should get rid of the tiny bit of buzz you left in the instrument... and... if you did step one correctly (neck bow) you should have super low action that doesnt buzz and ables you to play much faster. if you still catch a buzz just adjust that saddle about an 1/8th of a turn. that should handle it.

3)intonation is achieved by placing the 12th fret harmonics directly over the 12th fret. the way to do this is to tune the instrument perfectly. hit the 12th fret harmonic to tune the instrument. now, as lightly (finger pressure-wise) as you can play that note, play it and see if it's higher or lower in pitch compared to the harmonic. tightening that screw will move the saddle towards the bridge effectively making the string longer. that is what you do when the note is higher than the harmonic. visa-versa the change the intonation the other direction. the number one mistake people make when setting intonation is pressing the string too hard when playing the 12th fret note which actually bends the note a little higher than it would have been if played lightly.


now, once you've done all of these steps, play the hell out of your guitar for about an hour then put it down for the night. it will keep adjusting a little, especially the neck bow adjustment. the next day, tune it up and see how it feels. if it is still not intonating correctly, my guess is that you are pressing the strings too hard when you play. lighten up your grip a little. touch the guitar how you touch the back of your girlfriends neck.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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