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InvisibleautomanM
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Registered: 09/18/03
Posts: 8,053
musical instrument repair column
    #2270692 - 01/25/04 06:30 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

i started this column on a shroomery step-child's site, but i guess i'll start it here too.

in real life, i repair stringed instruments. i'd like to keep this thread going as a resource for those that cant afford to have their instruments worked on by professional luthiers. if you have a question, please post it and i will be happy to help. i will check this thread daily.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineJacquesCousteau
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271075 - 01/25/04 10:32 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

BEST. AVATAR. EVER.


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OfflineBlastrid
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271438 - 01/25/04 01:39 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

sweet, this will be helpful I think...
I may/may not be making some huge changes with my Epi Les Paul soon...

Good to know there's an expert around myah


--------------------
Blas'?trid (bl?s tr?d)
    n.  3rd generation derivitave of a combination of 'bastard' and 'blasted'.  Used as both an insult or an expletive.
    ex.  Blastrid!

Stereopattern  <--My music.


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2271547 - 01/25/04 02:26 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

Okay, I have a question, regarding my Ibanez EDB605 bass guitar, Sirius:


Anyways, anytime I hit the ninth fret on any string, it causes the E and B strings to ring out (only the B string, of course, on the E string... I'm not sure what is causing this.

Have any ideas? Tusen takk! :laugh:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2273026 - 01/26/04 12:02 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

thats a good question that most people never ask. everything on the planet vibrates. woods, in general have many frequency points that balance out each other. the bass you have doesnt actually have a wood body. it is made from luthite, which is kinda like a resin that is poured into molds. the good news is: it is possible to change that frequency. the bad news: it involves cutting a piece off the body which i'm sure you dont want to do. the best way to limit it is to put a very thin piece of rubber under each saddle so that it doesnt touch the bridge. be sure to measure the thickness of the rubber and adjust the screws down the same amount to maintain the string heighth to which you are accustomed.

my main question is: does it do it unplugged or just when amped?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2273697 - 01/26/04 05:23 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

i have a an Alhambra nylon string guitar and about 9 months ago i had it sitting under a jacket in my back seat, my friend got in the car and sat on the jacket not knowing the guitar was under it witch gave it a short crack on the bottom of the body. after some time has passed the crack has gotten longer and now the wood around the neck is starting to crack too. the bodys made out of teakwood. Any reccomedations on how i could go about stopping the cracking? The cracking is making me sad.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2273711 - 01/26/04 05:31 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

bottom back, bottom side, or bottom front? is it stained a dark color or is it natural? does it have a laquer finish or is it oil?


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2273793 - 01/26/04 06:28 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

im guessing laquer, its staind dark, the crack is at the bottom going up the body and there is one on the side next to the neck.i was away from the guitar and left it at my dads house and it looks like someone kept winding the strings till they broke and the crack grew like 2 inches.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2274857 - 01/26/04 04:06 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

cracks in an acoustic body are odd beasts. if you havent ever worked with woods, i dont recommend trying it yourself. i would recommend you take it to a professional.

that said, this is the process on how to fix minor cracks that arent in the soundboard of an acoustic guitar. take the strings off the guitar. you will need to get luthiers magnets and long necked clamps. you will also need wax paper and a good wood glue. NEVER USE EPOXY TO WORK ON GUITARS UNLESS YOU ARE A PROFESSIONAL LUTHIER.... IT CANT BE UNDONE WITHOUT LOSING WOOD!!!

first, lets deal with the crack on the side of the body next to the neck. if the crack can be closed by hand, cut a thin cleat (maple works good for this) that is the width of the crack plus 1". now do a test run. put the cleat on the inside of the guitar and cover the magnets with wax paper. put the clamp perpendicular to the crack at points on the body that will cause the crack to close. check to see if it did close. place the cleat inside the body over the crack and hold with the magnet. put the other magnet on the outside at the same place and watch them grab. since you covered them with wax paper, you can slide the outside magnet around without scratching the finish. also, wood glue doesnt stick to wax paper. slid the magnet to the side to catch a glimpse of the crack, but with most of the crack still covered with the magnet. if is closed with the pressure of the magnets and the clamp, you are ready to do your glue up. get a damp rag. force a tiny amount of glue into the crack and wipe off the excess with the damp rag. lightly apply pressure to the cross clamp so that it just gives enough pressure to close the crack. now, apply wood glue to the cleat and use a popsicle stick or toungue depressor to smooth it thin and even. go ahead and lay the wax paper wrapped magnet in the instrument. push the cleat into place and cover with the magnet. make sure all the glue that was pushed through to the outside is wiped off and place the other wax papered magnet on the outside. if you feel that the crack has overlapped, back off the pressure of the clamp, but if you can still stick a tooth pick into the crack apply more pressure to the clamp. basically, the clamp will be your final adjusting tool. you will have 15 minutes from the time you first apply the glue to the crack to do anything you want. after that, the wood glue becomes unworkable.

now the easy part... the back crack. since backs are so much thicker than sides, you wont need the cleat. you should be able to get it back together with clamps alone. if not, the magnets and clamps will get the job done together.

remember, always use a felt covered wood block under your clamp points. if you cant get the crack to close on your dry run OR you dont fully understand any part of this OR you just dont feel comfortable doing this... it is better to either take your instrument to a trained luthier or send it back to the factory.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2275290 - 01/26/04 06:43 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

This isnt so much repair as it is a finishing question

Ive got a guitar that i got signed with Sharpee permanent marker, but i want to get a finish over it to protect it.

I know that most finishes will in fact, dissolve the ink...so do you know of a finish type that will not do that?

Ive asked around but i get no responses.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
-George Gissing

"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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OnlinegeokillsA
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2275317 - 01/26/04 06:51 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

Petrucci, Vai, Satriani... wooo00t  no disolve.  No Disolve  :shiftyeyes: :biggrin:


--------------------

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··∙   long live the shroomery  ∙··
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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2275508 - 01/26/04 07:59 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

i would just cover it with thin, clear, self-adhesive pickguard material that you can cut into any cool shape you like.

laquer will disolve it if applied over it.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinezoso507
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2275545 - 01/26/04 08:16 PM (13 years, 10 months ago)

Thanks for the info. After seeing that i know i cant fix it myself but at least when i take it to a professional ill know what things hes gonna need so i can get them before hand and hopefully save some time and money.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: zoso507]
    #2276298 - 01/27/04 01:34 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

dont worry about purchasing that stuff beforehand. if he doesnt have all the tools he needs, take it to someone else. he obviously hasnt done that kind of work before.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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OfflineKremlin
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276349 - 01/27/04 01:58 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

hmm

Well that is a good idea, but is there any actual laquer coat i could get on it that wouldnt dissolve it? The pickguard clearcoat seems like something that would rub off.

--Kremlin


--------------------
"Human suffering has been caused because all too many of us cannot grasp that words are only tools for our use, and that the mere presence of a word in the dictionary does not mean it necessarily refers to something definitive in the real world"
--Richard Dawkins, "The Selfish Gene"

"It is the mind which creates the world about us, and even though we stand side by side in the same meadow, my eyes will never see what is beheld by yours."
-George Gissing

"Without a firm idea of himself and the purpose of his life, man cannot live, and would sooner destroy himself than remain on earth, even if he was surrounded by bread."
--Fyodor Dostoevsky


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InvisibleautomanM
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Registered: 09/18/03
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: Kremlin]
    #2276445 - 01/27/04 03:07 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

it is actually pickguard material, but it's thinner and clear. it works great and wont come off.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlineorizon
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Registered: 08/22/03
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276466 - 01/27/04 03:13 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

DO string instruments include pianos? I have been havin some problems with my upright lately.


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InvisibleautomanM
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: orizon]
    #2276476 - 01/27/04 03:16 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

sure. i have rebuilt and refinished many an upright piano.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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Offlinefireworks_godS
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Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: automan]
    #2276585 - 01/27/04 04:22 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

automan said:
the best way to limit it is to put a very thin piece of rubber under each saddle so that it doesnt touch the bridge. be sure to measure the thickness of the rubber and adjust the screws down the same amount to maintain the string heighth to which you are accustomed.

my main question is: does it do it unplugged or just when amped?




Yeah, cutting the guitar isn't an option. With international shipping and the high Norwegian taxes, I played almost $300 more for it... I don't wanna hack it up. hehe

It seems to do it while unplugged as well. At first I thought it was just the octave causing it to ring out, but I've done the octave of the low strings in other positions, like on the 14th fret of the string below, and it doesn't cause anything to ring out at all. And it is only the 9th fret that is doing this.

My guess was pretty on, then, because I figured it was ringing through the guitar and causing it, and I was thinking about sticking some pieces of like matchbook paper underneath the saddles or something. Rubber would definitely work better, though. :lol:

Now I just need to find some rubber to suit the purpose... I'm not sure how I'll manage that one.  :smirk: Unless........  :grin:
Peace.


--------------------
:redpanda:
If I should die this very moment
I wouldn't fear
For I've never known completeness
Like being here
Wrapped in the warmth of you
Loving every breath of you

:heartpump: :bunnyhug: :yinyang:

:yinyang: :levitate: :earth: :levitate: :yinyang:


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InvisibleautomanM
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Registered: 09/18/03
Posts: 8,053
Re: musical instrument repair column [Re: fireworks_god]
    #2276614 - 01/27/04 04:46 AM (13 years, 10 months ago)

go to a junkyard and get a floor mat out of a car made before 1973. that should be enough rubber to last you a long time. just use the thinnest parts. it diesnt take much to dampen the vibration to the bridge.


--------------------
No, no, you're not thinking, you're just being logical. ~ Niels Bohr


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