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OfflineTrippyMomp
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: bodhisatta]
    #26668885 - 05/13/20 04:28 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

bodhisatta said:
This tek is part of bod's cultivation is easy as fuck link list



Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK


Quote:

Bodhisatta said:
All TEKs, by any author, that have results, can and will work. The TEK can only take you so far. Discrepancy in results is due to experience and skill. Yes some people will pull it off the first time. Well wrote TEKs aim to help anyone achieve the best results on their first attempt by being as clear and descriptive as possible. Despite that no TEK can provide you with first hand experience. Rest assured knowing that bad results have pretty much everything to do with operator error and there's an abundance of examples of most all current methods working extremely well. You can figure it out and the people of the online mushroom community can help. The more you document and correctly follow methods the easier diagnosis of problems will be. Best of luck to all cultivators





This TEK is specific to these tubs

Sterilite® Air Tight Storage Tote - Transparent with Aquarium Blue Latch 32 54 & 80 Qt sizes. The 80q is my least favorite. I largely use the 54 but the 32 is great too.

Other tubs may work, if you're familiar with the principles of operation feel free to experiment and contribute. As always think outside the box, things can be a lot more simple and efficient often times.

I have not recommended any other tubs because I have not used any other ones. I'm sure that other kinds of tubs would work just fine. You'll want a clear lid at the very least. If you use a different tub I expect you to have enough experience to be able to judge your conditions accordingly, or if you don't have any experience to be willing to deal with your learning curve.

To make a Monotub you will need Spawn and Substrate


Here's how I make grain spawn with Oats

Here's how I make my substrate

Here's the video of how I add spawn to substrate and mix it in one of these unmodified tubs

How It Works





Flip the lid upside down.
This creates air gaps around the 4 lid locks which is important for allowing air exchange as well as substrate moisture regulation.





The lid is NOT latched down, EVER


after having done some trials I put my tubs into fruiting conditions(lid upside down for air gaps) immediately. I have noticed faster colonization times, faster times to pinning as well. Cubensis is an aerobic organism, While some old books talk about high co2 during colonization my own tests show clearly that FAE right away is superior. Try it out for yourself and do your own side by sides and let the community know.

I now make no distinction between colonization conditions and fruiting conditions. I just chose to call it
Growing Conditions
My tubs do not dry out being in "fruiting conditions" during "colonization"
My yields have stayed the same. My time to full colonization has decreased as has the time to pinning and harvest.
I have always had exposed top grains, doing "fruiting conditions" immediately has not caused an issue even with exposed grains.


This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. Some occasions I find I have to actually remove the lid because the surface is too moist, other times the corners get a little dry and need a light misting. If you can brush your teeth at home you have more than enough time to visit a tub once or twice during fruiting.

As said above you may have to mist twice a day or once every few days or even not at all. I will sometimes bottom water by pouring water down the sides of the tub after the pins are in, and as always only mist if the surface needs it. Bottom watering is usually helpful for subsequent flushes. If you're using this tek you shouldn't need to ask me how to water your mushrooms. You need to develop a feel for it and deal with that learning curve or already have the experience under your belt in dealing with fruiting substrates. Of course you can jump right in but don't expect to know everything overnight.

surface conditions are very important. You can't simply whip one of these together and expect it to work with no experience, no eye for things, no mycologist's green thumb.

Skill plays a much of a roll as methods. You also need to be able to produce clean spawn and determine conditions.


Lighting


you can use tube fluorescent lights for multiple tubs. There's far more than one correct way to arrive at great results.

I have long since abandoned using the one light per tub and now use shop lights for multiple tubs. Lighting from the side and top doesn't matter. I strongly suggest using florescent lights rather than LED lights. Florescent tubes are actually MORE EFFICIENT in watts per lumen as well they also put out a more full spectrum of light than almost all LED lighting even if both are listed as 6500K.

Florescent T8 4 foot long tubes work well
The Spectralux 901616 4 ft. - 32 Watt - T8 - 6500K - 2900 Lumens - High Output bulb works well in a appropriate fixture. You don't need the exact same lighting setup as me. Mushrooms don't photosynthesis but like humans act funny if kept completely devoid of light. Yes they will grow in complete darkness but they will look fucking stupid and no be nearly as presentable. Mushrooms do derive a noticeable positive benefit from adequate lighting.

Some additional things to be aware of


You will have to adjust as necessary to get everything just right so the surface does not dry out in between the times you're able to visit your grow.
I brush my teeth twice a day so I can handle looking at my tubs once or twice a day. Often times there needs be no adjustment at all, and every other day on average a misting.

I fruit these just fine in 10-20% RH indoors so I suggest skipping the casing layer, but some people need have their ways. Do what works for you always.

I almost never use a casing layer myself, On occasion I will use a top layer of coir 1/8-1/4 inch thick. With varieties like PE that take a bit longer to pin this can aid some people in keeping conditions good. The top layer of coir is more of a pesudocasing

most of the time I opt to just go with straight up mixed spawn+substrate with no top layer at all (grains showing on the surface)

When spawning I have in the past used a trash bag as a liner. I mixed in the trash bag and then put into the tub. and then pushed it flush to the corners and tried to make the surface as level as possible
you should give good attention to making your substrate surface level.

Currently I completely avoid use of a liner at all period. If you look at my harvest TEK you'll see I get no side pins even without the use of a liner.

Using a liner is a crutch to help with side pinning, side pins can be avoided by proper surface conditions and a nice flat even level surface. If you chose to use a liner a clear one works just fine, it works by preventing a micro-climate at the sides, light has nothing to do with side pins.

Space Management

Yes, you can stack them. Rocket science commence in
3.
2.
1.

yes it's sturdy. No, they don't stack as nice as a traditional 6 hole monotub would


I put colonizing tubs on the top of the stack since heat rises they'll stay perhaps a bit warmer than the rest.
(I no longer stack I use shelving)


Timetable, Yields, Biological Efficiency(BE%)

Fastest possible way if you already have mycelium. Add the time it takes to get clean mycelium on agar or a clean grain jar fully colonized from a spore syringe if you have no inoculum ready

Agar wedge to grain water LC takes 3-5 days before you can use. Agitated once a day with glass in the bottom.
LC to quart of spawn takes 3-4 days to colonize if you use the right amount
g2g is 3-4 days to colonize using 1:10

spawn run is 8-10 days. pins in 10-14 days. harvest in 15-21 days.(best case)

yield 1-2 oz per quart using MS cultures. more with clones.

I use only oats and only coir. people are tied up using verm and gypsum and substrates that require lengthy and energy intensive pasteurization.

coir goes into a bucket I pour boiling water on it. wait a day and use it.

oats get boiled 30m, drained and ready to be sterilized.

oats are $12 for 50 pounds

case of petri dishes 75$ (lasts me about a half a year)
enough oats to make 103 quarts $12
enough coir to make 20 tubs (5q per tub) $30
agar agar powder is 1$ to make a few liters. so negligible. the media itself is leftover water from boiling oats. same with the LCs. So that's free

Depending on other expenditures you're at 1-2 dollars per oz for initial returns.
Once you have everything you need and only need to buy oats and coir to re-supply it gets under a dollar an ounce. if you grow 2oz per quart you're at 50c or less.

any good monotub is completely set and forget requiring no fanning or misting at all start to harvest. Your time is worth money. If you so chose you can completely neglect a monotub if your substrate moisture and FAE are dialed in.

At any given time if you had no LC or spawn ready but had mycelium ready on agar
to harvest mushrooms would be 25 days, at the best case scenario shortest time, if you go LC route

if you had no mycelium on agar you could put spores right to grain. Wait 2-3 weeks for the grain jars to colonize. use the best one for g2g and spawn the rest if healthy and get mushrooms in a hair over a month + more spawn.

most people don't get caught in a situation where they have to start from absolute scratch but the first few times they grow. It becomes an assembly line so your time table approaches 0 days to harvest if you do enough mycology work every week.

Once you are established and only need to buy oats and coir to maintain a grow cycle
one bag of oats and enough coir is $43-45. that will make bare minimum 103 ounces of shrooms if you run into no failure.

using just coir and oats I can calculate BE very easily as well

650g of coir in your grow and 220g of dry oats per quart
say you use 5q of spawn to one brick 650g of coir for a a tub
that's a dry weight of ingredients of 1750 grams.
to calculate BE it's wet weight / dry weight of everything used
so you will need 1750 wet grams or 350 grams wet per quart to achieve 100% BE
my cubes dry up to be about 93% water usually
1750 wet gives me ~122.5 dry or ~24.5 dry per quart.

so anything over 24.5g dry per quart is over 100% BE for me. simply 1oz dry per quart is over 100%(~114%) and 2oz dry is over 200%(~228%)


Harvesting

Bod's Easy AF harvesting TEK



Results




Other people's results

too much to quote

Quote:

Sparky101 said:


Thanks for the tek, works good!




Quote:

Sparky101 said:
First flush in the 32qt mono. 761g wet



This is the first time I’ve used the tubs specified in bods Unmodified mono tek. I didn’t have to mist much with this tub, it basically took care of itself ?




Quote:

Germs said:
Quote:

Kaladin said:
My third go with unmodified tubs. Turned out real nice.





Better results than some who have been growing for ages




Quote:

PopaCap said:
A bit smaller fruit than I was hoping for, but not a bad flush. I already harvested about 80 grams that were way ahead of the pack.





Quote:

Captain Shadow said:
14 day harvest.










Quote:

Madcapper144 said:


7qt b+ spawn 1 brick coir. I've been having issues with side pins so I added a light casing and boom!! Will update with weight soon as I get em all dry!!




Quote:

Captain Shadow said:
The 80qt from 3qt of spawn. Took 23 days until harvest.



I wish my mushrooms would all open at the same time.
I wish I could get a thicker pinset.

Otherwise loving the tek.. :thumbup:




Quote:

Captain Shadow said:
Went with the bread knife. Worked like a charm.







Quote:

Myco Mako said:
Bump for the latest success story with this tek.  If you haven't tried it, it truly is EAF...












Quote:

amidogen said:






Quote:

sherpashaman said:





Quote:

Captain Shadow said:
:thumbup: @ Day 19





https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25288835/fpart/1/vc/1
19 days no misting fanning or anything 0 maintenance

vc77 said:


Thanks bod
vc77 said:
Thanks guys but I didn’t really do anything. Been on this tek for a while and that’s the best thing about it.






I should be able to do this with my BRF cakes right ? I have these tubs and like the concept of unmodified. I also really like the ideas of grating my cakes but there is more possible room for contamination correct ?


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InvisibleSpreadtheknowledge
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: TrippyMomp]
    #26670714 - 05/14/20 02:09 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

I'm having some contamination problems I think it may be bad spawn but I've used agar and I check every jar before I mix it is there anything I can do to get cleaner spawn should I restart with agar again? Is there any way to tell if a jar is contaminated without looking at it because all I can see is nice white mycelium and nothing else but I seem to get alot of contamination right before pins form anyone have suggestions?


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Spreadtheknowledge]
    #26670724 - 05/14/20 02:17 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

We’d need plates and jar pictures.

Assuming you’re using coir it’s gotta be the spawn. Might be getting in when you drop a wedge, or there could be something meshed in the culture.

I’m starting to suspect I’ve got that happening now, every time I knock up a jar with this one culture it goes green a week or so later.


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InvisibleSpreadtheknowledge
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: A.k.a]
    #26670822 - 05/14/20 03:05 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Mine sounds a little different than yours my jars look fine even if left for 2 or 3 weeks after they colonize they lokk great but right before pin set is always when it gets contaminated


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InvisibleCosmicGiggle
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Spreadtheknowledge]
    #26671105 - 05/14/20 05:25 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

So after first harvest the pins that were already sprouting ended up doing this shit. They grew to about 1inch and then stopped and the caps flattened out. All the caps also have a white stroke around the edge. What did I do wrong to my poor babies?



--------------------


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InvisibleSpreadtheknowledge
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: CosmicGiggle]
    #26671527 - 05/14/20 09:48 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

I had this happen once when I accidentally forgot that I was rehydrating I left it floating for about an hour and got the same thing so possibly to much water in the substrate how long was it sitting in water for?


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InvisibleCosmicGiggle
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Spreadtheknowledge]
    #26672519 - 05/15/20 11:55 AM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

Spreadtheknowledge said:
I had this happen once when I accidentally forgot that I was rehydrating I left it floating for about an hour and got the same thing so possibly to much water in the substrate how long was it sitting in water for?




Just while I was harvesting, about 20 min.


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InvisibleSpreadtheknowledge
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: CosmicGiggle]
    #26677754 - 05/17/20 09:03 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

People are saying some mixed things on here so is it possible to have the lid flipped during colonization but not fruiting so there isnt any FAE but not have it latched or will that suffocate the mycelium there are a couple different types of thinking from people and I would rather figure it out without killing a tub does anyone do this consistently without any problems?


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OfflineSped105
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: CosmicGiggle]
    #26677808 - 05/17/20 09:44 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

CosmicGiggle said:
So after first harvest the pins that were already sprouting ended up doing this shit. They grew to about 1inch and then stopped and the caps flattened out. All the caps also have a white stroke around the edge. What did I do wrong to my poor babies?






It's been my experience that all fruits part of a given flush will try to open their caps at about the same time regardless of how mature all the fruits are. I'm guessing the white has something to do with immature fruits being forced to open before they're fully mature, I wouldn't worry about it. I always harvest everything except maybe some aborts and prepare for the next flush.


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Offlinechuckarama
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Spreadtheknowledge]
    #26677981 - 05/18/20 12:39 AM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

Spreadtheknowledge said:
People are saying some mixed things on here so is it possible to have the lid flipped during colonization but not fruiting so there isnt any FAE but not have it latched or will that suffocate the mycelium there are a couple different types of thinking from people and I would rather figure it out without killing a tub does anyone do this consistently without any problems?




Without high FAE during your fruiting phase, you'll likely develop fuzzy feet at the base of your fruit. Things get stuffy enough as it is when your tub is blowing up.

It's possible, and the seal is imperfect so that it would still work without the lids flipped, but you're better off with that extra boost of FAE.

//


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: chuckarama]
    #26678322 - 05/18/20 06:59 AM (3 years, 8 months ago)

During fruiting as much air as possible without drying it out is what you want.

You just have to experiment and find out what works for your room. You won’t kill it either way though. I’d err on the side of not enough fae and slowly increase it until it starts to dry the surface too much.


--------------------
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: A.k.a]
    #26678567 - 05/18/20 09:36 AM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Hey fam,

First time grower here, going for the unmod tub which I know is a big leap but I’m a firm believer in the notion that simple is robust and my time is better spent learning a tek that’s as hands off and cost efficient as possible so thank you BOD for getting me this far. I do have some questions I hope some of you could answer for me on surface conditions and casing for B+.

My tub is at a constant 72 degrees. Humidity seems right with just a light condensation on side of the tubs. Haven’t done any misting and don’t think I’ll need to. Sub field capacity (coir) was a little on the wet side but I live in a very dry environment and expected it to dry out faster than what is considered normal so added some verm until it seemed right and went for it.

1) from what I gather 72 is a great constant temp, but should I be measuring humidity in a more measured way? Do I want the surface to be on the drier side always because I can always mist?

2) I know casing is irrelevant but I have 4 bags of this case mix I bought that needs to be used and know that it can help with a more even pin and keep a good micro climate. Judging by the pic and the fact I feel like my tub may be more wet than I want would it help in this instance to improve surface conditions ?

It’s been four days since everything went into the tub. I keep checking for early signs of contam and comparing with posts on the contam thread but seems fine from what I can tell but maybe y’all see something my untrained eye can’t.

Any help or a link to another thread with the info is greatly appreciated.



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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: lrrylre]
    #26678953 - 05/18/20 12:53 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

I was hoping y’all could school me a little on the possible negatives of putting less than 7 x 1 qt jars of spawn in a setup like this (slower to pin? larger window for contamination?). Possible benefits as well, if there are any (more flushes?).

I was testing a couple bags of rye and didn’t really expect either to take off, but now both are solid bricks of mycelium (one B+, one Costa Rica). I’m weighing the options of either putting them each in a tub to see what happens, or going for g2g transfers and turning them into 7 jars each for future tubs.

Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated, as are your excellent guides bod.


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Offlinepoisoned
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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Phrontist]
    #26678965 - 05/18/20 12:58 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

You have to realize that it's not actual quarts, it's quart jars which are usually filled up to 70%. Not sure how big your bag is, but mine usually end up at about an equivalent of 6-8 jars. If they're smaller, you could do shoeboxes to fruit them.

I'm not sure how much experience you have, but I wouldn't recommend doing g2g for your first grow. Especially not from bags. Bags are tricky.


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: poisoned]
    #26679005 - 05/18/20 01:29 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

It’s weird sometimes less spawn seems to go quicker.

Basically assuming you maintain good conditions you’ll just end up with less yield overall.

As long as you’re not doing crazy rations like one part spawn to 7 parts coir or something it won’t matter much.


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: poisoned]
    #26679008 - 05/18/20 01:30 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Yeah, these are smaller bags. Pretty much the same volume of rye berries in them as oats I put in a quart jar.

As I said, I wasn’t expecting them to take off, so if what I do next doesn’t work out, it’s not a huge loss. I’m just trying to decide which route has fewer risks, I guess.

Maybe I’ll do one bag in a tub and break the other up for g2g. I have a good SAB and the process is something I’d like to get comfortable with anyway.


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Phrontist]
    #26679245 - 05/18/20 04:03 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Hey guys,

as my grow continues, some more questions need to be answered.

this is the best pic from my first flush (its GT btw, stated earlier it was B+ while it isnt):

got me about 400-500g fresh (havent really weighed all since they matured one after another) and made some nice prints :-)

after harvest i bottom watered a bit and misted.
now i'm misting only when it looks dry, lid is 90 degree turned for FAE and i'm fanning it 2-3 times a day, since i think it still doesnt get enougth FAE in my setup.
room at about 20C most time.

now looks like this (freshly misted):



1. The cut off stems look kinda rotten :-( , is that normal, or what can i do about it?
2. new pins are mostly gray colored (are these aborts?), only the sidepins look healthy, i assume its because of the better microclima on the sides, how to improve this in the middle (or is that normal?)?
3. Mushrooms on the last pic looking kinda dehydrated, lack of water or is it because i misted them on top?

Overall very stalled growth now...


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: DontMatter]
    #26679498 - 05/18/20 05:56 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

I have a question since it went unanswered in the faqs. I'm going to inoculate tonight 2 lbs of the grain berries in spawn bags with healing ports. I built a sab but was unable to find a bottle of alcohol to whipe everything down with. I did however find some alcohol prep pads that I planned on whipping the port with. My question is how sterile does it have to be in the box. And I was trying to find out how much coco coir i needed for substrate when i spawn my tub. I have 2 pounds of rye berries. Thank you


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Re: BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) [Re: Poolofsouls]
    #26679529 - 05/18/20 06:11 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Is there something wrong with my posts like are they private.


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Re: Unmodified(no holes no poly) 54q Fruiting Chamber(off the shelf monotub) TEK [Re: shevanel]
    #26679734 - 05/18/20 07:57 PM (3 years, 8 months ago)

Yes I ordered pre sterilized bags from shroom supply and have made a still air box for them.


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* Pic of a new fruiting chamber. OnyxSkyDV 5,914 16 08/31/19 09:18 AM
by bodhisatta

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